Painting Steering Box - I Could Use Some Suggestions

[oscarsnapkin]

I stripped down the steering box from my Thing using a wire brush attachment on a drill. I don’t have a good picture of the housing, but you can see the clean metal at the top of the picture below.

Before:

I removed the pitman arm (drop arm) to make it a little easier to work with. I tried using a puller on the flange on the input shaft and it wouldn’t budge, so I figured I’d leave it on rather than risk bending the ears. So my question is, being that the metal was cleaned using a wire brush, what do I have to do before painting it? I will be using Master Series on the rest of the front beam and would like to use it here, but figured it might be too difficult to prep correctly (beam was blasted, I don’t want to blast the steering box because I don’t want to damage any seals or contaminate the insides) because of all the little nooks and crannys on the housing and cover. My other thought was to use a rattle can paint, but again, I’m not sure how to prep. As always, I appreciate any help.

Nice and clean:

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- 1977 CEI Sunroof Bus 2.0L F.I. Hydraulic Lifters
- 1973 Thing

"It’s so easy to laugh, it’s so easy to hate, it takes strength to be gentle and kind."

[esde]

I have good luck with self etching primer on cast steel, rustoleum has it in rattle cans.
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modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[viiking]

I did the same as you to clean then used a moisture cured polyurethane type paint. Did the pre-wash with the acid solution then used KBS by brush. But you could use MS, Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint etc. Came out really nice imo.

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1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3

[oscarsnapkin]

[bomberbob]

The rustoleum self etching primer has the acid in it so it can grab onto the metal. Either the KBS or Master series are moisture cure, so they might pull any existing moisture out of the metal. Helps to prevent the rust from reforming under the paint.
I have used both the Master Series and the KBS. Both behave the same way, once you open the can you better use it quick. When the air gets to it it will harden in the can.
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1968 Beetle (storage)
1990 Jetta GLI megasquirted, burning E85 (currently in heavy maintenance)
2004 Jetta turbo GLI
Marion, Iowa

[viiking]

The purpose of the acid is to convert rusty areas to a stable phosphate coating which is a very good base for paint. Normally these types of paint are used on mild steel. This acid is a phosphoric acid base. Self etch primer is just primer with some acid already in it. That is, a one step process.

If the steel is pretty clean and without rust you CAN get away with just painting the box without acid etching. Make sure it is degreased well then just paint. The paint sticks very well without the acid IMO. In fact if you get it on your hands it’ll be weeks before it rubs off. So wear gloves!

The only issue with the moisture cured polyurethanes like KBS is (as has mentioned by bomberbob) is that part opened cans will harden in a very short time so it’s better to paint lots of things to not waste the paint. You can preserve it for longer if you put kitchen plastic wrap over the can before replacing the lid. I just buy small tins and make sure I have enough projects to use up the whole tin.

If the box is the only project you have it might be more cost effective to just buy some rattle cans. I don’t have experience with the Rustoleum but I hear it’s good.
_________________
1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3

[scrivyscriv]

Don't sweat it too much if you're just trying to clean up the box and make it look better, just rattle can it and roll on. If you're up for a little more detailed work, and I highly suggest it on the steering box since aftermarket units are generally regarded as junk, it doesn't take much more work to tear the box down to replace two bearings and oil seals, and at that point you can very easily clean and paint it however you want.

I tore mine completely down, with the type 3 steering box topic here being a great reference for parts and final adjustment.

I would never say this is "THE" way to do it.. but I tore mine down, glass beaded everything but the worm and roller, and primed the steel parts with epoxy primer and painted with 2k black topcoat. Alodine is really great for protecting aluminum from corrosion.. I brushed it on the entire cover, top to bottom, and left it as is, a yellowy green tint. Zinc electroplated all the hardware. Then got replacement bearings, plugs and seals from several different vendors and the classifieds here. It took a while but that steering box should give ZERO issues for its future lifespan.

The whole lot of crap ready for epoxy.. got my stock steering box and the extra core sitting on the bottom of the rack

Molykote dry film lubricant on the last worm gear
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[oscarsnapkin]

Just wanted to post a follow-up. I finished the box a week or two back. I wire wheeled the whole exterior as I mentioned in my original post, and then used some metal-prep/acid stuff I bought at Home Depot. Followed that up with two coats of Master Series sealer/primer and then two coats of Master Series AG111. Painted it with a foam brush, and a small detail brush for the smaller areas. I got a little paint on the large locknut on the outside of the box, but oh well, I’ll never see it. The only issue I had with the AG111, not just on the box but on other pieces as well, is for some reason it started going on with a dull finish instead of the usual glossy look. This was from the same can and the exact same cup that I had mixed, so it is not an issue of inconsistency. It happened on my axle as well where it is more noticeable. I’m not really all that concerned about it because once it gets put together it’s all hidden under the car. I just hope that it doesn’t affect the durability of the paint. Thanks for the help everyone.

_________________
- 1977 CEI Sunroof Bus 2.0L F.I. Hydraulic Lifters
- 1973 Thing

"It’s so easy to laugh, it’s so easy to hate, it takes strength to be gentle and kind."

[viiking]

Your paint looks a lot thicker than what I had on mine.
_________________
1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3