DELUXE with a weak clutch return

[malcolm2]

Tell me what is up here. I am ready to mount the engine, but I am giving everything a final test.

My helper is stepping on the clutch pedal and RELEASING it. When I say RELEASE, they remove their foot. The pedal slowly returns to the up position at the speed you are seeing the TO lever move. Very weak.

Tranz has been rebuilt, so it is "NEW". It has been about a year since I got it back. Should I maybe lube the ends of the TO lever? Does it look like I need a new spring? I should ask my rebuilder if that was new?

Will this slow return be corrected once the clutch assembly, flywheel and engine are attached??


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My Toys: '75 Porsche 914, '92 Ski Nautique and now a 1972 VW Transporter Deluxe (punch list fixing)

[SGKent]

only the last 1/2" to 3/4" of pedal play at the top is controlled by the TO arm spring. If you go much past that with the engine out the pedal will fall to the floor.
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[malcolm2]

[Starbucket]

Remember your pressure plate is a giant spring that will push it back, just make sure the last part of the TO arm travel springs back to remove the TO bearing from clutch pressure plate.

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[kreemoweet]

TO bearing should snap back smartly when pedal is released.
The lever spring is a strong thing if it is not sick, there should be no question about it's ability to slam the bearing back. If it's not a broken return spring, I suspect your shaft bearings in the trans body are either horribly gummed up or else the locating screw is located improperly and is binding up the shaft.
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[skills@eurocarsplus]

[timvw7476]

there's something amiss there chief. The TO bearing is riding proud on the guide. You need to lose that lugnut spacer you have on the cable. Reason being, I assume you are mounting a new clutch disc, & maybe even pressure plate. The new disc does change the point of engagement versus the olde tired worn-down friction disc. So get the lugnut out of there, & re-check. You should be further in the housing at that point. AT least I hope for that. Also check/set the Bowden Tube 'sag', as per the Bentley Book, the sag at the rear torsion helps the cable live on very long happy life. Enjoy. : )
EDIT: the sag gets tuned via washers, stacked at the nipple exit of the clutch cable, they force the Bowden Tube to 'sag' near the mounting tang at the torsion. Once that's done, you 'tune' the clutch play via the wing nut at the cable end. All your new clutch parts throw the old adjustment out of whack. New friction = New adjustment.

[malcolm2]

Everything is new or replaced here.

I believe this bus was last registered in the 90’s.

The bug nut spacer is not new. It was there when i bought it. All it does is save a few turns of the wing nut and if needed, will give a bit mote length to tighten.

I wondered about the resting place of the TO bearing. At this point it seems high as you said. But any lower and the pedal will not fully rise.

I will read-up and adjust the Bowden tube today. Thanks for the help so far.
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My Toys: '75 Porsche 914, '92 Ski Nautique and now a 1972 VW Transporter Deluxe (punch list fixing)

[mikewire]

Yeah...don't expect the little clutch linkage spring to do much by itself, the pressure plate does that job. As others have said, the clutch pedal won't return properly without everything, including the PP installed.

I second removing the spacer nut on the clutch cable. Right now it is causing your clutch arm and TB to ride too proud. Also note, when you get everything back together you'll need just a bit of slack in your clutch pedal before it engages the TB, if you leave the nut there I don't think it will allow enough slack.

That Bowden tube sag is also important to the function, you need just enough, and I think mine I stacked 3 spacers and that was just right.

IIRC the clutch info you need for proper adjustment is all in the Bentley.
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@countdowngarage
@bigskyeuro

1972 VW Kombi 9 Passenger Deluxe w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC swap
1965 VW Beetle Deluxe Bahama Blue

[malcolm2]

[mikedjames]

Take that nut out, its also flexing the cable to make it break.
The wing nut has points that rest in notches in the lever, acting as pivots so the cable is not flexed. .

As others say, put washers as spacers between the Bowden tube outer and the bracket on the side of the gearbox, to get the correct curve for the Bowden tube.

The washer stack also sets the adjustment range for the wing nut.

The outer of the curved Bowden tube is a spring which comes into play as the release bearing starts to press on and move the fingers on the clutch pressure plate. The Bowden tube outer shortens slightly as the load comes onto the inner of the cable, makes the clutch biting point more progressive over a longer pedal movement.
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[kreemoweet]

[ToolBox]

If you are this far in repairs take the pedal cluster apart for a good clean and lubrication. No one ever PM's those items.

[malcolm2]

[ToolBox]