Torque multiplier

[Frodge]

Is there a way to get the rear drums to 252 ft/lb without one of these tools? What are the options. What is the cheapest place to get me of these 136 seems steep for something I'll use rarely.

[Glenn]

Factory torque wrench.

_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[67rustavenger]

[Cusser]

[Lingwendil]

[Michael Ambrozik]

I use the Torque Meister and this.

https://shop.snapon.com/product/US-Reading-Torque-...b)/TQR600E

With the 3/4 drive sockets that are needed. Like what was said buy once, cry once.

[mikeonthebike]

[OTTO 1303]

Price depends
https://www.jusbugs.com/16-9602-0-torque-multiplier/
Not sure about shipping.

Putting in gear and setting E-brake with a BIG torque wrench has worked for me.

Good Luck
_________________
74 Super Sun Bug - OTTO
74 Super - DANZIG
74 Super - HERZOG

[Michael Ambrozik]

The torque wrench I used on the job and it is about 18 years old. I only use it to double check the torque after using the Torque Meister. There are cheaper ones but this is the one I have.

[Cusser]

[viiking]

Has anyone actually cross checked the accuracy of the Torquemeister tool with a calibrated torque wrench?

Not to deny the quality of the product, but I'd like to see how accurate it is with user operation and wear and tear on the mechanism.
_________________
1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3

[jinx758]

Many moons ago I used a pole on a breaker bar but I never knew exactly how tight it was getting.

Now I have a Horrible Fright electric impact "Big Bertha" for axle nut removal & Torque Multiplier for installation.
Good money well spent.
I sleep at nite knowing it's in spec.

Best to all ... stay safe

jinx
_________________
" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference

You can't push a rope


VALVES (cold)
POINTS
TIMING
CARB (fully warmed engine)

SCRAPE ALL GROUNDS

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor

[Cusser]

[Starbucket]

You get as tight as you can with a 4' pipe on a breaker bar then move the axel nut to the next carter key slot on the nut. Never had one come loose with that method, but now since I bought a Torquemister years ago I just use a small torque wrench and make life easy. Think about it if you're not going to use it again sell it on the Samba and get most of your $ back.

[sb001]

[Mikedrevguy]

Once responded to a cry for help. Axle nut wouldn’t budge. He’d tried everything and just couldn’t get the thing to move.
I show up with the torque meister. And he again starts in with everything he’d done and how frustrated he was and by the time he’d finished his tirade, had the nut off. He sat their dead silent disbelief for 10 seconds.
Bought mine 15 years ago for 80-90$$. Thought it was a lot back then. But, it’s the tool that keeps on giving.
_________________
74 1303 (RevBug): plan for German Look
76 914 with 2260
79 VW Iltis
69 Bwajaja
"The wise speak because they have something to say; while the foolish speak because they have to say something." Plato

Illigitimi non-Carborundum!!

[Gitchigumi]

Viking, you actually use a torque wrench with it. I use my 3/8" drive set to 25lbs. TM multiplies torque by 10 equals the 250lbs you need for the axel nuts for example.

[Jhp212]

Look up “Torque Dude”. I think I saw them at $105. I paid $15-20 less just a few years ago but of course everything went up. I thought it was well worth it. Looks like they’re up to $134 now at jbugs.
_________________
1971 Super Beetle

[ashman40]

Here are three options for removing/installing the rear axle nut, in order of easy of use:

1) "Torque Buddy" tool. You only need apply around 24-30ft lbs of torque to tighten/loosen the nut. That means less chance of slipping off when trying to apply high torque. You can apply the needed 25-ish ft-lbs of torque with one hand while the other holds the Torque Buddy tool tight against the nut. The toque is applied in a controlled manner.

2) Standard torque wrench rated to 250ft-lbs or more. These are expensive but you can rent them at little to no cost. There is the need to physically apply 100-200lbs of pressure at the end of the wrench depending on its length. As you apply this you need to make sure the socket doesn't slip off the end of the nut. Oh, and the cost of the 36mm socket must be taken into consideration. Here the torque is applied in a relatively controlled manner but how much control do you have when you are pressing down on a torque wrench with nearly all your weight?

3) Lacking a torque wrench, you can get very close using a bathroom scale and some physics. Depending on your weight, calculate at what distance from the center of the nut you need to apply about 50% of your weight so 217ft-lbs of torque is applied to the nut. Use the bathroom scale under one foot to measure your remaining weight while you apply your weight using the other foot to the breaker bar at the correct distance.
Or, from this thread, apply your full weight at the proper distance from center on the horizontal bar (too risky for me to try):


dirtkeeper wrote:

I think i get pretty close like this i'm 190 lbs free standing at 15" out comes to 237lbs torque 15"/12" = 1.25ft x 190lbs = 237 ft lbs

Warning, what ever tool you attach to the 36mm socket, make sure it can handle 200+ ft-lbs of torque. I broke two "lifetime warranty" 1/2" breaker bars trying to remove the axle nut from my '75 Beetle. They were rusted on there and the 1/2" end sheared off the breaker bar (one Craftsman one Stanley). Only the Snap-On 1/2" breaker survived. I have since upgraded to a 3/4" breaker bar and 3/4" drive 36mm socket... but have not had to use then since I bought my Torque Buddy
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[jinx758]

@ sb001

Hmmm, let's see.
I've had mis-sized wrenches, entire bag of cable ties that had no slot for the tie to loop into, an hvlp gun that spit paint instead of atomizing, hammer drill strip its gears after 2nd hole in shower tile, measuring tape that wouldn't retract, & a lot of other "quality" control faux paus.

5 yrs ago I got a 4 & a 1/2" grinder that I abuse regularly yet I caint kill it. Go figure.

I must be insane cuz I go back there expecting the next tool to at least function.
I sense this is for another thread. Lol




The maxed out cheater bar & then more to align cotter pin hole worked a treat before I coughed up the $$$ for The Torquer. I only used it after rear wheel cylinder & hardware replacement but it's there if/when needed.

Best ... stay safe

jinx
_________________
" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference

You can't push a rope


VALVES (cold)
POINTS
TIMING
CARB (fully warmed engine)

SCRAPE ALL GROUNDS

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor