Engine not starting- no spark

[Massey363]

Alright guys, trying to get my 1972 Super started. I had some trouble with the wiring which should be all set now. Ordered a new coil just in case and that did not solve the issue. The engine was rebuilt and I recorded it myself running on the stand. It sat in a garage for the last 2 years and I just got it in the car. Cranks over great, fuel in the carb, no start. Pulled plug out and no spark. Coil is new and checks out with multimeter. I also took the ignitor module out and did a volt test with the magnet and it does fluctuate in volts when the magnet spins. I could be wrong but I believe all of that is working correctly.

Anything else to look into or do before I go crazy? I feel like I am just missing something very simple. Been searching the internet for days and just can't figure it out.

[anthracitedub]

Can’t go wrong with points and condenser. Also, rare but I’ve seen it personally where the ignition switch would interrupt power to the coil while cranking. In the on position, the coil had power.

[67rustavenger]

Isn't there already a thread on this subject here?
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=771233&highlight=

You should be posting updates in it.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Massey363]

[67rustavenger]

I'm not admin, or a mod here. It's up to them on weather this qualifies as a new topic. Or a continuation of the same issue that you are having with your "No Start" situation.

That said. Your ignition module is very suspect as the non-functioning component.

Try a new (known good) distributor. Or change out the module for points and a condenser to prove/disprove that the module is non-functioning.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Starbucket]

Make sure you have the coil wired correctly, all 12 volt items go to #15 on coil only the wire to the dist. gets hooked to #1 on the coil then to eliminate the ign. switch from being bad run a jumper from the battery + to #15 on the coil then try to start it with the key.

[Massey363]

[anthracitedub]

Or just use a meter and have someone else crank the engine over. If the power is not interrupted, I’d look into point/condenser setup.

[Massey363]

[Massey363]

I followed this procedure to test the ignitor: http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/PerNegGndTest.htm

And when spinning the magnetic I fluctuate between 11.45 and 4.25 volts

[67rustavenger]

For $20.10, You could have a set of points and a condenser, from NAPA tomorrow.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Starbucket]

If you dont get spark with the jumper then the problem is in the dist. maybe a bad cap, bad rotor, or bad center coil wire to dist.. if you are brave hold the coil wire that goes to the cap and have a helper crank the motor if you feel a tingle then your plug wires are wrong.

[Massey363]

[Massey363]

[Cusser]

Another "no points" dissatisfied customer.....
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[67rustavenger]

[Pruneman99]

[67rustavenger]

[ashman40]

Try this....

Disconnect the black 12v+ wire from the ignition coil #15 (+) terminal.
Place a VM at the end of the wire to measure the voltage coming from the ignition switch.
Turn the ignition to ON/RUN (engine not running). Note the voltage. You should see at least 12.0v at the end of the wire with nothing else connected. 12.5v would be ideal.
While you have someone crank the engine, take another voltage reading at the end of the disconnected black wire. If the voltage drops below 11.0v it has dropped too low and is likely not enough to power your electronic points. The voltage drop indicates a weak battery or high resistance (dirty connections) between the battery and the ignition coil resulting is less current reaching the coil when the starter is drawing most of the current from the battery.

Another way to test this is to push start the car. Since the starter is not needed to push start it doesn't draw current and the ignition maintains the full voltage you read when testing w/o the starter and everything works as expected. If push starting works it indicates a voltage drop while cranking. Have the battery charged and tested at your FLAPS. If the battery is good you know the issue is with not enough current making it to the coil because of high resistance somewhere in the ignition circuit path. Likely the ignition switch or the wires. Clean connections and see if you can increase the voltage reading to the coil while cranking.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[ashman40]