Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3

[SGKent]

I think you mean the bearing holder. If a bearing spins in the housing, it normally means the next one will do the same.
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[orwell84]

[airschooled]

How much clearance between the bearing/housing? Green sleeve repair thread locker is good for up to .005” I think.

Robbie
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[orwell84]

[orwell84]

Im thinking the sleeve retainer is worth a try. I will also replace the bearings. I was able to get the numbers off them so that can order a couple sets. Having pulled it apart, I think I could also manage rebuilding my original some cold winter day. If I was in a hurry, I would get one from Autozone and throw it in.

As the years go by, there are fewer and fewer things I can farm out. The only thing I haven’t had to get into on my bus is the autotrans. I fear that day as that project might be over my head. I have accumulated enough engine parts to put together a spare, so I should be good for awhile.

I have been off on a tangent messing with old Vespas just to change things up a little. Many parallels to working on a bus, but much smaller in scale, complexity and time and money investment. Rebuilding a Vespa engine feels more like working on a very sturdy clock. Many small fiddly things to get right, but better availability of a range of parts from absolute crap to really high end racing stuff. The very best kitted to the teeth Vespa engine costs about the same as a well built DIY type 4 long block. If you seize an engine, just clean up the piston and cylinder, slap it back together and keep going. Replace when piston no longer holds the rings. Sorry for the digression, I’m blathering again.

Thank you, iPhone, for helping an old guy see the invisible.

[SGKent]

make sure the bearing has not eaten into the end housing a significant distance while it was spinning.

Thanks for sharing the Vespa.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[orwell84]

I was able to get the bearing off without mauling anything. Spent a whole fitty dollars on a harbor freight bearing splitter set.

The splitter ended up moving the copper discs down the shaft. I think it’s just a matter of comparing measurements to move them back to where they align with the brushes.

I tried out my original alternator last night with the hope that when I replaced the whole charging system years back it was something other than the alternator. No luck.

On a happy note the rumbling noise was gone. I’ll take that over a crank bearing any day.

[orwell84]

I’m having a few issues getting this alternator together.

When I used the bearing splitter to remove the rear bearing, it pushed the commuter down. I haven’t yet found a way to move it back up. I could use a splitter but there are some wires On the bottom of the commuter that Im afraid to damage.

This is how it looks now.

This is how it looked before

This is someone else’s

I’m also puzzled with why the rear bearing moved out of the cover in the first place. I can see it spinning in a wallowed out cover, but I wouldn’t think that the bearing pressed into the cover would be holding the whole thing together. Wouldn’t the case bolts hold the shaft in place?

Last question: Anyone know of a FLAPS alternator that is a known good fit…just in case this doesn’t go as planned the first time through?

Thanks.

[Abscate]

Plan C or D…there is a top notch off-internet guy in Albany who does this stuff in his sleep, if the roadblocks really get thick.
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[orwell84]

[SGKent]

looking at the photos I don't see what you are seeing. The commutator ring end looks about the same to me. look at the space between the armature and the commutator ring.

This is mine when rebuilding it.

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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[busdaddy]

You may be able to leave it where it is, but you'll have to mock it up in the case and confirm the brushes still contact each ring and don't overlap.
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[orwell84]

[SGKent]

measure the hole and Google it. That is how I found some other ones. You may have to buy a bunch. I suspect the rebuilders toss them.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[busdaddy]

[SGKent]

I looked at photos of my Bosch rebuilt alternator when it was apart and there is none in the photo. It may be one of those deleted items in later alternators or Bosch rebuilds. I suspect it loads the bearing forward rather than stopping it from spinning. You could put some lite peen marks in the bearing housing if it is loose to make it a tighter fit.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[orwell84]

I was going to use some loctite sleeve retainer to hold it in. It should hold it, though I would have to burn it out to get it apart again. Blue loctite might me enough.

I tried the old bearing in it. I didn’t try to tap it in because it met some resistance which is all I wanted to know.

[SGKent]

https://www.mcmaster.com/wave-washers/split-wave-disc-springs/
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[orwell84]

[SGKent]

NAPA https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHE604?impressionRank=4

Rockauto also has the Standard Motor Products part:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/volkswagen,197...older,2420

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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin