Question about pedal assembly rebuild on a 67 beetle

[aviator8]

I am rebuilding my pedal assembly and something seems off. When I took it apart the Roller post was onlt secured to the base assembly by a pin that was not secured. I am attaching a video to show what I mean.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/-PQ52H8OVoE

Also the slot that the roller post fits in seems to have some indexed teeth in the bottom of the channel. Do these serve a purpose or are the just part if the manufacturing process?

[mukluk]

The pin for the accelerator pedal arm is trapped in place by the tunnel when you bolt the pedal cluster in, you aren't missing any pieces or clips. The "teeth" on the bottom of the arm serve as travel stops for the arm.

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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[aviator8]

Thank you for the quick reply. That helps!

[aviator8]

Ok now I have a new dilemma. I made a video to show what I mean. It is regarding the return spring setup on the accelerator pedal. What was o mine was not correct but I'm not sure what is correct.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hTTpA6BqQ0

[ashman40]

The return spring for the accelerator cable is located on the carb throttle linkage. This carb spring pulls on the throttle arm to return it to fully closed. Since the accelerator pedal and accelerator cable are linked to the carb they too return to the fully closed position when this spring closes the throttle. That worn out spring in your video was a hack the PO installed. It is not a stock spring.

The small spring that loops around the pivot pin at the base of the accelerator pedal is only meant to keep the pedal against the roller. Without that spring it is possible for the pedal to fall towards the rear of the car and remain flat on the floor pan. Obviously this spring cannot be too strong or it will start to depress the accelerator.


This thread has some pics for you to follow.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=237811

As you look at the pics of the accelerator pedal note four things:

The loop in the spring is facing UP when installed. The two legs of the spring will rest against the floor as you slide the pivot pin thru the pedal and the loop of the spring.

The small end of the spring "hooks" the base that the pedal mounts to and can be seen from the driver's side of the pedal.

Once the pivot pin is fully in place, the loop of the spring will slip into the groove of the pivot pin. This prevents the pivot pin from sliding out.

Hooking the long side of the spring into the firewall side of the pedal is the very last step in the install of the spring. As you install the pivot pin thru the pedal+spring loop the long side should be resting against the floor towards the front of the car. After the pivot pin is in place, pull the pedal towards the rear and then pull the long side of the spring up/rearward to clip it into the pedal. When done, this spring will lightly hold the pedal against the roller.
If the roller appears to rest too high or low on the pedal it usually means your throttle cable is not adjusted properly. The cable should be adjusted (at the carb end) so when the pedal is held to the floor the throttle plate in the carb is vertical (WOT).

Oh, and be sure to lube the pedal assembly and the cables before installing them.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[aviator8]

Thanks you, that helped alot. I was basically putting the spring on the wrong way. I guess my only issue now, and it may not be an issue, is that I have a base that has the arm that stops full accelerator travel so it can never engage the last bit up to the top of the roller arch. I guess I can adjust the throttle cable at the carb so I can actual get full throttle where it stops travel at the pedal.

[67rustavenger]

[aviator8]

Ill have to check that when I get there. My engine isnt ready yet.

[ashman40]

I normally have someone hold the pedal to the floor while I loosen the barrel nut and open the throttle fully (WOT) then re-tighten the barrel nut. This syncs the fully open throttle with the fully depressed pedal.

Sometimes it helps if the assistant holds the pedal at 95% to the floor as you tighten the barrel nut with the throttle plate fully vertical. This makes allowances for tension in the accelerator cable. Just be careful with this. You don't want the driver to apply so much pressure that the throttle cable is actually trying to rip the carb off the intake. And with some carbs it may actually be possible to open the throttle plate past vertical which means pedal to the floor is not actually WOT.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[corro23]