2003 Eurovan MV VR6 24V manual swap notes

[EuroTec]

[EuroTec]

I played with connecting some relays to the TCU harness to take the place of the missing transmission solenoids. Seven of them, plus two more connected to the speed sensor connecters.

I started with 10 codes.
My hardware hack got it down to two.

HOWEVER...

...it ran differently. Throttle was much more on/off feeling. Performance was down easily 20%.

I removed all of it and it's back to running great again.

With a check engine light glowing, no, GLARING at me.

I'm looking into a stand alone EFI install as a solution to this business.
A Megasquirt OR Microsquirt may work. I'm looking here:
https://kptuned.com/
I called and left a message today.
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[EuroTec]

I spoke with Paul about an injection system. $2500 and it's still in a prototype phase. It's a stand alone so during an inspection for readiness monitors NOTHING will show up via OBD. This rules it out as a solution for owners of a manual swap van in California.

My goal is to find a solution that will allow a full inspection and pass it. No CEL!
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[obnoxiousblue]

This captivates me. I have an 01 EVC and would be much happier with a manual.
Curious if you have a VCDS scan of the van.
I’m wondering if there is some adaptation work that’s due to disable nodes that no longer are necessary due to the swap.
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Mike
1964 Beetle
2001 Eurovan Camper

[EuroTec]

[FreedomBuild]

I would love to do this swap on my 2003 VR6 Rialta! The automatic is such a dog. A manual swap would make it way more fun to drive! I'm following this thread. Thank you!
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1973 Campmobile rustoration in progress..

1700 Type 4 engine
Manual Transmission
Pertronix Mechanical advance distributor
Pertronix Flame Thrower coil
Weber Progressive

Come visit our Facebook page!
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Freedom-the-Campmobile/158775277473211

Click to view image

[shirk]

[EuroTec]

[EuroTec]

I've been working on a hardware hack solution to the CEL from lack of an auto transmission. I already tried connecting some relays in the place of the missing solenoids and it did indeed eliminate those codes but the fuel injection map changed and it ran with less performance throughout the throttle range.

I've decided to see what effect the milti-function transmission range switch (that's a moutful) has on the EFI map. So, the first thing I had to do was map out the different connections that happen in the switch when it's in P,R,N,D,3,2,1 positions.

We currently have a EV at the shop with the 01P trans that's in for service on the trans cooler. I had it on my lift Friday and took the opportunity to probe the switch and come up with a map of the switch positions.

The plan on MY van is to emulate the switch positions by using jumper wires at the connector then drive the vehicle and note the changes in throttle response and performance. What I'm after is finding the optimal setting for all around driving.

Here's a map of the milti-function transmission range switch showing the pin connections in all positions.

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If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[EuroTec]

My hardware hack did the trick!! 😜
This relay array, some jumpered pins, a couple resistors and the transmission control unit thinks the car is in drive, not running, vehicle powered up. NO MORE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT!!!

I've put about 3 miles on it with no codes. Before it's would set a code before leaving the driveway.

I'll be posting the schematic and parts list in another thread.

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If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[EuroTec]

Here's a schematic of the relay hack I did.

You need the transmission control unit harness connected to the TCU. The round plug that goes into the transmission gets cut off and the wires get connected to the relays as shown. The other connector for the multi-function switch that goes into the side of the transmission gets the jumper wire and the speed sensors get a resistor jumper on each one.

Install all of this, clear out codes and CEL should stay out.

The TCU is fooled into thinking that the car is in drive and powered up but not moving. Since it will always be "tricked" into this state, it should never set any codes.

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If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[[email protected]]

That is some serious science
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2001 eurovn weekender 207k fresh batteries

[EuroTec]

The TCU is simply looking for some kind of resistance across the solenoids terminals and the ability to handle a 12 volt electrical load. The solenoids measure about 77 ohms with two a bit higher. An 88 ohm black 4 terminal relay is a good substitute across it's coil.

The speed sensors and temp sensor have a resistor that is within the value of the component it's replacing. Again, some kind of resistance but in this case with no load.

Jumpering the multi-function switch into drive mode takes care of the rest.

No more reason for setting a code.
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[Endopotential]

Bravo, that is indeed uber level tinkering!

Certainly the Hack of the Week

[Joshwa]

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93 Weekender TDI conversion (AHU)
93 MV TDI conversion (1Z)
Weekender rear cot
Late model cabin air filter on 93
Euro spec bumper install on 93

[EuroTec]

I did another scan after the drive to work this morning. Shift lock solenoid showed up but that's not anything that will make the check engine light come on. Simple enough to take care of that by installing another relay on the shift lock solenoid connector.
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[Abscate]

You could compact that with a bank of 90 ohm resistors, 0.5 wattpower rating would be well overrated.

Bad beer rots our young guts but vodka goes well get some now.
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.ssS!

[shirk]

That's awesome. Great work.

[EuroTec]

[EuroTec]

I've been trying jumper wire configurations on the multi-function switch. So basically trying a setting in D, 3,2,1 and see if there is any difference in performance. Seat of the pants says a bit more early throttle response in 2,1 compared to D.

I need to set up a switch so I can try 3 vs 1 with Torque running on my phone to monitor throttle, AF, etc. That will help determine if there really is a difference in engine mapping in each gear.
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it!