Suggested DP Heads for a 1600

[Crashly]

Hello everybody I have been researching DP heads for my 74 Thing for a couple of months. One of my intake valves is allowing air to come back into the intake so it either has a crack or a bad seat. My motor is pretty much stock with a 32/36 and a aftermarket exhaust. I have a set of dual solex carbs that I may install later and I may build the motor up a little larger in the future (2110). For the time being can anybody recommend any affordable DP heads. I have seen the offerings from EMPI, MOFCO and AA in the 500-600 range. Can anybody share some their thoughts or suggestions for a set of DP heads that can be opened up at a later date?

[Glenn]

So you want a head that works for a stock 1600 and a 2110 in the future?

No such thing.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

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[jpaull]

The "opening up" of existing castings will cost more then buying a 2nd set already done.

Buy some AA basic heads for your stock engine, then get some CB heads when you wanna go fast.

[Crashly]

Copy that.

[ALB]

What works properly and is most efficient (best power and mileage) on a 1600 ain't gonna cut it on a higher revving 2 liter+ engine. The guys above are giving you the best advice- buy some stock replacement heads for your 1600, and when the time comes look at ported, big valve heads for the size and rpm range of what you're building. You'll have the added benefit of the stocker under the bench as a back up if something happens to your 'beast'.
Hope this helps. Al
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[Brian_e]

Pull your stock heads off and see what the problem is. They might just need to have the seats re-cut and the exhaust valves replaced.

More realistically, they are also cracked from the plug hole to the seat, just like 85% of used OE dual port heads.

If they are not cracked, clean up the valve bowls, replace the guides, get the seats cut, and replace the exhaust valves, and they will be good to go. This will be good engine building practice for when you decided to build a bigger engine.

If they are cracked, buy some new 35x32 aa500 heads. Clean up the valve bowls, and have the seats cut. This will get you a ways ahead power wise, and they are very durable. Bummer part is they are out of stock most everywhere.

Brian
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[nsracing]

I got a set of NEW 40x35.5 heads that got abandoned - owed money on them from the work.

Ported/polished, 3-angles, bored 90.5mm, cut for dual springs S/S valves, Berg dual springs/retainers. These heads be good for 2110cc -

I will let them go cheap - PM me

[Glenn]

[buckswilde]

[nsracing]

[Dauz]

I swear by those chinese heads at carcraft. They're on my 1776 which runs like a top. And everyone I've turned onto them have had excellent results.

[Chickensoup]

IDK why folks dont like rebuilding german heads.

Inspect for cracks and warping
flycut
replace guides
cut seats
assemble
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[Brian_e]

[Lingwendil]

Are the new single port heads any good? I have a pair of single ports that are usable but rough. One has an extractor broken off in one of the exhaust studs and I'm not sure if it's worth the tears trying to deal with.
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[Brian_e]

[Chickensoup]

[Chickensoup]

[nsracing]

If they are original 040-casting heads, I will usually keep them for later use. To me - they are big-valves waiting to come out.

For race heads - I love using the 040 castings. I machine the seats and do other things w/ them. Now that I got my TIG back - will try to do more work on them.

Upgrading to a bigger milling machine this year - I think I will stop doing longblocks for now and just do topend like before.

I am really liking the Ford S/S steel exhaust studs and nuts - will be using them on the VW heads.