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Tahlequah 
Samba Member
Joined: July 14, 2007
Posts: 379
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 Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2022 10:51 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| 1971 bus, suspected booster failure, but when i disconnect vacuum line from booster a whoosh of air blows in so it'so holding vacuum. i plumbed up the booster to external vacuum source and gauge showed no loss. reason for replacement is a stalling engine when braking, i capped vacuum line at booster and engine runs perfect so i know my prob is booster side. im stumped, few days until booster arrrives but not sure if thats my prob. i do have green hardback bentley automotive reference manual for 68-79 type II book code v279 vw part # lpv 997 288, studied chapter 8, pages 9-12, still stumped |
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busdaddy
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Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51128
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2022 8:38 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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It could have a ruptured diaphragm and still hold a vacuum when static, repeat the test with the rod depressed.
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Tahlequah
Samba Member
Joined: July 14, 2007
Posts: 379
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| Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2022 12:22 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| It could have a ruptured diaphragm and still hold a vacuum when static, repeat the test with the rod depressed. |
ill do this in abt two hours, glad you posted. your advice helped a few bays im reviving |
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Jalabert
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Joined: December 06, 2005
Posts: 631
Location: On the coast in NZ, somewhere...
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| Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2022 2:32 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I haven't asked one for at least a week...
Is there any benefit to running a "high performance" coil and a bigger spark plug gap on a stock engine? A couple of years ago I replaced my old coil with a nice new blue bosch one and I was gobsmacked by the difference doing that.
I installed new plugs yesterday, they'd been gapped at .7, specs for my bus is .6, so that triggered the grey matter... |
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2022 2:40 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Jalabert wrote: |
I haven't asked one for at least a week...
Is there any benefit to running a "high performance" coil and a bigger spark plug gap on a stock engine? A couple of years ago I replaced my old coil with a nice new blue bosch one and I was gobsmacked by the difference doing that.
I installed new plugs yesterday, they'd been gapped at .7, specs for my bus is .6, so that triggered the grey matter... |
I would not expect a high performance coil to make much difference. The 0.7mm spec it fine and what is likely called for in your owners manual. I just run a Standard Motor Products coil from my local NAPA and have been very happy with it. |
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Jalabert
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Joined: December 06, 2005
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Location: On the coast in NZ, somewhere...
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| Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2022 4:14 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Thanks WT. My Bentley says 0.6 for 68-74's and 0.7 for vehicles after that. I'm not aware of what might have changed after that...related to the later cylinder head design, maybe? |
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2022 4:56 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Jalabert wrote: |
| Thanks WT. My Bentley says 0.6 for 68-74's and 0.7 for vehicles after that. I'm not aware of what might have changed after that...related to the later cylinder head design, maybe? |
The owner's manual show a spec of 0.7mm, this is for a '68 model, but the 0.7mm spec goes back much further than that. I view the 0.6mm spec in the Bentley as little more than a typo, or maybe a carry over from the very earlier years of the VWAC engine.
You have to go back to '58 to find something different and then it is a range from 0.6 - 0.7mm
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Jalabert
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Joined: December 06, 2005
Posts: 631
Location: On the coast in NZ, somewhere...
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| Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2022 5:43 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Cheers WT, that's very interesting (not taking them out again though!)
I wonder what VW's definition of as high-speed trip in a VW bus was?!
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'73 westy, 1700 type 4 with 34icts |
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2022 7:48 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Jalabert wrote: |
Cheers WT, that's very interesting (not taking them out again though!)
I wonder what VW's definition of as high-speed trip in a VW bus was?! |
Probably actually comes from the Tire and Rim Association, they have all kinds of charts on how much air pressure you need for certain speeds. The load range and tire pressure numbers on the sides of the tires are not absolutes, but vary with speed. |
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Hikelite
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Joined: August 31, 2012
Posts: 557
Location: Colville, WA
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| Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2022 9:33 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I think this got missed at the bottom of last page... reposting
In a '68 w/o the engine hatch, how do you work on dual carbs?
They are relatively new to me. They were installed professionally in 2018, and I'm trying to learn to work on them myself.
Am I correct that I need to access them from the top to remove/replace jets?
If I want to pull the carbs off, do I have to remove the entire intake?
Some of the nuts on the carbs look impossible to get to with the fan shroud in place. I've been seriously wondering if it's easier/better to just pull the whole motor.
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My 1968 Campmobile |
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Jalabert
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Joined: December 06, 2005
Posts: 631
Location: On the coast in NZ, somewhere...
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| Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2022 10:39 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Certainly can be a squeeze to get around carbs, especially if you're trying to tighten the inlet manifold bolts.
Yep, you're probably right that without a hatch it's going to be easier to remove either the carbs from the inlet manifold or the engine to change the jets.
What are the symptoms you're trying to cure - why the change in jets? In my experience, once carbs have been installed they should be set and forget - you might need to balance them, but that should be it.
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Hikelite
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Joined: August 31, 2012
Posts: 557
Location: Colville, WA
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| Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2022 3:19 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Jalabert wrote: |
Certainly can be a squeeze to get around carbs, especially if you're trying to tighten the inlet manifold bolts.
Yep, you're probably right that without a hatch it's going to be easier to remove either the carbs from the inlet manifold or the engine to change the jets.
What are the symptoms you're trying to cure - why the change in jets? In my experience, once carbs have been installed they should be set and forget - you might need to balance them, but that should be it. |
I don't need to change them, but maybe clean them?
I wanted to confirm it can't be done installed.
My symptom is it's running hot here in central AZ, so I want to add some insulators under the carbs and was studying how to remove them.
I don't think I can remove the carb from the intake, so I wanted to know if folks normally just remove the whole intake off the head first? Those nuts are accessable.
Thanks
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My 1968 Campmobile |
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12721
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2022 4:06 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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If you know where the jet holders are, it’s absolutely doable to change/clean them in place. Stubby flathead screwdrivers help, as well as reference photos and mirrors/shop lights. No way in heck I’d remove them for something that simple.
Robbie
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Tahlequah
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Joined: July 14, 2007
Posts: 379
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| Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2022 2:15 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| It could have a ruptured diaphragm and still hold a vacuum when static, repeat the test with the rod depressed. |
thanks that confirmed booster failure. killed the engine by holding brakes, pulled hose and no vacuum. hooked vacuum pump to only booster port and it holds with pedal out but drops to zero when i push rod in |
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BusThang
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Joined: November 04, 2011
Posts: 60
Location: West Georgia
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| Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2022 2:33 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Could someone tell me what size nuts fit the circled studs?
78 Automatic. TIA
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1978 Riviera FI 2L Auto
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germansupplyscott
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Joined: May 22, 2004
Posts: 7093
Location: toronto
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| Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2022 5:21 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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M10 x 1.5
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BusThang
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Location: West Georgia
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Nicholas D
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Joined: November 06, 2012
Posts: 224
Location: Charleston, SC
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| Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2022 7:31 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Dumbest of the dumb... In the wiring section under the technical tab there are two 1971 versions. One says from August 1970 (1971) models and the other says USA. My bus was built in April 1971 so I'm assuming I use the "from August 1970" version? What is the "USA" wiring diagram referring to?
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73 Beetle |
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12721
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2022 9:24 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Nicholas D wrote: |
| Dumbest of the dumb... In the wiring section under the technical tab there are two 1971 versions. One says from August 1970 (1971) models and the other says USA. My bus was built in April 1971 so I'm assuming I use the "from August 1970" version? What is the "USA" wiring diagram referring to? |
I don't see a functional difference at first glance… What system are you currently working on?
EDIT: At second glance, the fuse box looks odd on the whiter diagram. The brown/faded diagram looks correct.
Robbie
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Nicholas D
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Joined: November 06, 2012
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Location: Charleston, SC
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| Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2022 9:09 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Thanks Robbie. I'm replacing my turn signal switch soon so I was just looking at that for now. That system appears to be identical between the two so it was really just a question of curiosity rather than necessity at this point.
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