What disc brake conversion have I got?

[mj2k]

I'm in the middle of getting my 1303 Super roadworthy, and I've just finished rebuilding the replacement carb (the original was some Chinese thing which starved the engine of fuel).

Now it's got enough power to be properly driveable I've become very aware the brake pedal is so hard to push it's like stepping on a rock, and I'm scared to take it beyond 2nd gear because from previous experience I know with a pedal feel like that the brakes are going to be on/off with almost no modulation.

It's had a disc brake conversion at the front which has widened the track by about 4 inches and it had a Porsche steering wheel when I got it, so I'm wondering if it's had a partial 924/944 disc conversion, or if it's some other 3rd party kit.

Anyone able to identify what my car's got on it from this partial pic?

[slayer61]

Tough to tell from the pic, but that's a Varga type caliper that comes with most reasonably priced kits. Not a Brembo, not a Wilwood etc.
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[OTTO 1303]

Doesn’t appear to be a 944 caliper
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74 Super Sun Bug - OTTO
74 Super - DANZIG
74 Super - HERZOG

[VW_Jimbo]

Need to see the caliper and pad shape.
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[mj2k]

Thanks all, I was kindof hoping it would be Porsche since that'd explain the extremely hard pedal, and it'd be worth more money 2nd hand when I remove it and return to drums

Seems a shame to remove it in some ways, and maybe I've got a 19mm master cylinder rather than a 17mm (17mm would allow more pedal travel, giving less leg effort and better modulation), but given this is a relatively light car with a not very powerful engine, I think usability outweighs stopping force, at least for me.

[vwoldbug]

Maybe take the wheel off so you can take the brake pads out so the Samba members can see them . Also maybe you can see what brand caliper you have. Is there free play in the brake pedal.

[Tvättbjörn]

[mj2k]

Think my drums are due to arrive today. Might take a few days for me to get the time to do anything with the Bug but I'll certainly post a picture of the pads and calipers once they're off the car

[mj2k]

Got the 2nd hand drums and struts yesterday (from a 73 model RHD 1600 1303 Super) and got a nasty shock when I compared them with what's on the car - mine's a 1973 model with steering box and idler, but it has been fitted with new struts, stub axles, anti roll bar and lower arms from a post-1974 model with a steering rack

At least that explains why the steering box's rods are all adjusted out to near the end of their range and why the front track is so massive, but I'm unable to return it to original specification because the earlier type of lower arms are no longer available from any of the parts stores I have checked.

So looks like I am stuck with the massive front track, but on the bright side, it means the wheel bearings aren't going to be under any stress, and finding replacement parts won't be so troublesome. It just means I'll have to work out how to increase the rear track by the same amount.

Also I've been unable to find any new post-74 stub axles which are designed to take the Super's 4 bolt drum backplate, but I have spotted some 2nd hand ones which may fit.

So I'm now stuck with a bit of a dilemma, do I

1) Fit a smaller diameter master cylinder (is post-74 the 17mm one?) to compensate for the disc brake conversion, and forget about fitting the correct parts for my car

2) Source some 2nd hand lower arms and hope they don't wear out (unlikely) or get bent (more likely)

3) Get those 2nd hand stub axles, and hope they don't wear out (they will, eventually, if they're not worn out already)

Option 3 would be stupid - I've got no idea how the camber will be affected when the car hits bumps, whether the castor is right, or if the steering is operating as it should (seems OK though), and also finding replacement stub axles in the future would be v tricky.
Option 2 is the most sensible, but would involve throwing away around $1200-1500 of brand new parts fitted by the PO, and spending maybe $3-400 on 2nd hand lower arms and the correct ARB. Oh, and refitting standard Beetle wheel arches rather than the flared ones it is currently wearing.
Option 1 also has questionable camber / castor (though the Super's front suspension travel isn't that accurate anyway, so it may not be a problem), but no worries finding parts.

Has anyone had any issues with using later parts on an earlier car like this, apart from having quite an aggressive "stance"?