deep sump install

[chiefdaveboats]

I'm getting ready to install a Scat 1.5 quart sump on an engine built with Bug Pac cases and have a few questions.

1. What is the torque for the bolts holding the sump to the case.

2. Should they be but in with loctite

3. Should you use a sealer on the gasket between the case and sump.

4. The kit included 12 allen head bolts. Can I use them to secure the sump plate, the instructions say to reuse the sump studs.

These may seem like pretty basic questions but I would like to get the advice of someone that has done it before. If you have any other hints please pass them along. Thanks.

[Glenn]

First.. .WASH the sump inside to make sure there's no sand from the casting left inside.

I would remove all the original M6 studs from the bottom of the case. Then use brake parts cleaner to ensure the surface and holes are clean on both the case and sump. Install new studs, making sure they are long enough and use blue loctite to the case and let it dry. Then use a single paper gasket and smear some Permatex Right Stuff on both sides.. just rub it in with two fingers, don't glob it on. Install the sump and just tighten the nuts until they stop.. don't torque. Let sit overnight and torque to 7ft-lbs the next day.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

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[DerrickfromNC1]

I installed Socket head cap screws in place of the sump studs when I had my case apart. I wanted to apply some additional torque to support a heavy sump full of oil only being held in place by those 6 tiny studs designed to hold the stock sump plate.
No chance of stripping these & with some loctite in the threads & under the washer has been leak(seepage) free.

[RCP Phx]

[DerrickfromNC1]

I should have been more specific. You install the socket head bolt from inside of the case. It becomes a permanent part of the case. No way to pull that cap head thru the case. Worst case you strip the socket head or the nut from excessive torque but not the case threads.

[earthquake]

[W1K1]

I sanded the top flange surface flat on my last couple sumps, they were not even close to being flat out of the box.
I did the bolts instead of studs from the inside too.
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1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap

[fuguboy]

I’m thinking better to pull a stud/threads or break the case? Maybe if the threads are damaged use bolts from the inside ? I did the bolts from the inside because the pickup was loose. Just hope I don’t hit the sump and find out what is stronger/better 🙃

[esde]

Imagine the force it takes to pull the threads compared to what it would take to break the case. I'll opt for the bolts from inside the case every time, as I have whacked the sump a few times and it still holds tight.
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modok wrote:
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[j-dub]

Some times the ribs on the case and or the ribs on the sump will interfere and not allow the sump to fully seat the sump plate mating surface. Do what it takes to make sure the surfaces are mating flat. I also use a smear of right stuff however I skip the paper gasket, have had better results that way.
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[Dale M.]

I have mangled two 3.5 quart sumps on extremely low (about 4 inch off ground) auto-x car and never hurt engine case or pulled threads....

On my street buggy, have to watch speed bumps in parking lots, but so far in 21 years have not damaged a sump or engine case....

Really in favor of hex or socket head bolts from inside engine case to attach sump.... Yes be sure mating surfaces are "FLAT" and use gasket and sealer...
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[chiefdaveboats]

First, thanks to all who responded. My first attempt to install the sump met with 2 issues.

1. On a trial fit the sump didn't seem to seat against the case. Scat suggested grinding the case but offered no suggestions where to grind and I was unable to see where the interference is. I don't know the case manufacturer but the info from the 2009 build sheet is Super Duty Aluminum case, p/n 4001-32.

2. The 2 extended pickup tubes provided, one is too small to fit on the original tube but will fit in the sump screen. The other tube is a somewhat loose fit but I'm worried that if I use it there will be a possibility of the pump sucking air rather than oil, also it is too large a diameter to fit into the sump screen. I do have an external oil filter but would like to retain the screen as a redundant system.

Any ideas? If I can't get this sump to work I guess the alternatives are a mini sump or drive less aggressively.