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Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ
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AustinA_43
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2022 11:06 am    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

Going through this thread again as I’m about to put a 1776 in my 78 westy. Cip1 now offers metal conversion tin for this swap, thought I’d post a link to this thread https://www2.cip1.com/vwc-211-198-525-kit/

Cool to see parts being made for this swap, going to go the weld on mount route for my mustache bar but hoping someone makes a kit for that in the near future.
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2022 11:21 am    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

CIP is where I bought conversion tin back around December. Bus Depot dropped the ball
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AustinA_43
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2022 11:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
CIP is where I bought conversion tin back around December. Bus Depot dropped the ball


Last time I was looking at this thread was a few years back must not have seen it was posted already. How are you liking the swap? My 2.0 type 4 is toast and since I plan on taking the bus to countries where type 4 parts are non existent thought it made much more sense to do this swap. A bit worried the 1776 (1788?) won’t have the guts to push my westy mated to a 6 rib. I will eventually like to have a custom trans built with an lsd and address the ratios then if need be. Any input on what to expect would be great.
New Scat high performance case, CB 69.5 crank, ACN L3 heads, 1 3/8 4-1 header, 34pict3 with 28mm Venturi rebuilt by Tim at Volkbits, svda pertronix distributor, eagle racing 2280 cam, doghouse cooling, full flowed, 2 quart sump.
Goal is to run cool, be simple, and be reliable.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2022 10:29 am    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

AustinA_43 wrote:
aeromech wrote:
CIP is where I bought conversion tin back around December. Bus Depot dropped the ball


Last time I was looking at this thread was a few years back must not have seen it was posted already. How are you liking the swap? My 2.0 type 4 is toast and since I plan on taking the bus to countries where type 4 parts are non existent thought it made much more sense to do this swap. A bit worried the 1776 (1788?) won’t have the guts to push my westy mated to a 6 rib. I will eventually like to have a custom trans built with an lsd and address the ratios then if need be. Any input on what to expect would be great.
New Scat high performance case, CB 69.5 crank, ACN L3 heads, 1 3/8 4-1 header, 34pict3 with 28mm Venturi rebuilt by Tim at Volkbits, svda pertronix distributor, eagle racing 2280 cam, doghouse cooling, full flowed, 2 quart sump.
Goal is to run cool, be simple, and be reliable.


The overall gearing of the 1976~79 VW 2000 Type 2 transaxle's 4th gear is only about 5~6% lower than that of the 1968~79 VW 1600 Type 2 transaxle's 4th gear; owing to the combined effect of the different final-drive ratios & 4th-gear ratios. The difference in 1st, 2nd & 3rd gear is about 14~15%. If you don't want to change your transaxle, you could use tyres of smaller rolling circumference.
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Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper

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aeromech
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2022 12:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

AustinA_43 wrote:
aeromech wrote:
CIP is where I bought conversion tin back around December. Bus Depot dropped the ball


Last time I was looking at this thread was a few years back must not have seen it was posted already. How are you liking the swap? My 2.0 type 4 is toast and since I plan on taking the bus to countries where type 4 parts are non existent thought it made much more sense to do this swap. A bit worried the 1776 (1788?) won’t have the guts to push my westy mated to a 6 rib. I will eventually like to have a custom trans built with an lsd and address the ratios then if need be. Any input on what to expect would be great.
New Scat high performance case, CB 69.5 crank, ACN L3 heads, 1 3/8 4-1 header, 34pict3 with 28mm Venturi rebuilt by Tim at Volkbits, svda pertronix distributor, eagle racing 2280 cam, doghouse cooling, full flowed, 2 quart sump.
Goal is to run cool, be simple, and be reliable.


Hi there,
I've done the swap twice now with good results. First let me say that I recommend installing an engine with similar or more HP to what VW originally installed. If your bus came with a 2.0 liter engine then I would try and match that using a Type 1 engine. Then you shouldn't have any gearing troubles.

Next, you're driving a bus which is like a truck. Not a Ghia or Porsche. That means that you need a stroker engine that has good, low end pulling power. A Porsche has a small crank because they want to spin it fast and develop power at higher RPM's. You need an engine that can pull the weight of a bus. There is a sacrifice though at highway speeds.

My latest engine had a 74mm stroker crank and 88mm thick wall pistons. It's an 1800 and works well in the earlier buses with the 002 transmission. Anything bigger and I doubt Tim's modified 34pict-3 carb will be big enough if you go up to a 2.0 liter sized engine.

A lot of thought needs to go into the choices you make regarding cam, crank, etc. If you pair the wrong parts together you won't have a smooth running engine. The bigger you go the more heat you'll need to shed so be sure to add a cooler. I like the low profile CB sump that's 1 1/2 quarts for ground clearance.
The L3 heads are what I installed on my own engine. When my engine builder looked at them he said there wasn't anything special. They were just from AA Piston and had been resold through Aircooled.net at a markup. Aircooled never answered my email regarding this.

The answer is.... if you want a good running type 1 engine in your late model bus you'll need a displacement of say 2007cc matched with a nice pair of small dual carbs and the best linkage you can afford. Redline is crap.

Good luck with it.
_________________
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Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
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NASkeet
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2022 11:16 am    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
AustinA_43 wrote:
aeromech wrote:
CIP is where I bought conversion tin back around December. Bus Depot dropped the ball


Last time I was looking at this thread was a few years back must not have seen it was posted already. How are you liking the swap? My 2.0 type 4 is toast and since I plan on taking the bus to countries where type 4 parts are non existent thought it made much more sense to do this swap. A bit worried the 1776 (1788?) won’t have the guts to push my westy mated to a 6 rib. I will eventually like to have a custom trans built with an lsd and address the ratios then if need be. Any input on what to expect would be great.
New Scat high performance case, CB 69.5 crank, ACN L3 heads, 1 3/8 4-1 header, 34pict3 with 28mm Venturi rebuilt by Tim at Volkbits, svda pertronix distributor, eagle racing 2280 cam, doghouse cooling, full flowed, 2 quart sump.
Goal is to run cool, be simple, and be reliable.


Hi there,
I've done the swap twice now with good results. First let me say that I recommend installing an engine with similar or more HP to what VW originally installed. If your bus came with a 2.0 liter engine then I would try and match that using a Type 1 engine. Then you shouldn't have any gearing troubles.

Next, you're driving a bus which is like a truck. Not a Ghia or Porsche. That means that you need a stroker engine that has good, low end pulling power. A Porsche has a small crank because they want to spin it fast and develop power at higher RPM's. You need an engine that can pull the weight of a bus. There is a sacrifice though at highway speeds.

My latest engine had a 74mm stroker crank and 88mm thick wall pistons. It's an 1800 and works well in the earlier buses with the 002 transmission. Anything bigger and I doubt Tim's modified 34pict-3 carb will be big enough if you go up to a 2.0 liter sized engine.

A lot of thought needs to go into the choices you make regarding cam, crank, etc. If you pair the wrong parts together you won't have a smooth running engine. The bigger you go the more heat you'll need to shed so be sure to add a cooler. I like the low profile CB sump that's 1 1/2 quarts for ground clearance.
The L3 heads are what I installed on my own engine. When my engine builder looked at them he said there wasn't anything special. They were just from AA Piston and had been resold through Aircooled.net at a markup. Aircooled never answered my email regarding this.

The answer is.... if you want a good running type 1 engine in your late model bus you'll need a displacement of say 2007cc matched with a nice pair of small dual carbs and the best linkage you can afford. Redline is crap.

Good luck with it.


In the UK, people have successfully used the 76 mm stroke crankshaft & 228 mm flywheel from the 2.1 litre water-cooled VW Transporter T3 (i.e. VW Vanagon in USA parlance) flat-four engine, in the VW Type 1 Beetle style air-cooled engine crankcase. In addition to the stronger 5-bolt flywheel attachment, the crankshaft has larger bearing journals and extra webbing.

Although it is rumoured that bearing sets for the water-cooled, flat-4 petrol engines, are hard to obtain in the USA, I believe they are readily obtainable in Great Britain & Europe.

The early-1913 cc and late-1913 cc & 2109 cc engines, have 215 mm and 228 mm diameter clutches respectively, so these are likely to be subject to the same clutch-housing clearance requirements, as the 1968~79 VW 1600 Type 2, 1972~75 VW 17/1800 Type 2 and 1976~79 VW 2000 Type 2 engines.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=341186

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


One passing acquaintance of mine, by the name of John R. Long, in Burton Pidsea, near Hull, Humberside, England, had such a modified, 1776 or 1835 cc, VW Type 1 style engine, built by Laurie Pettitt, for his 1971~79 VW 1600 Type 2, using the water-cooled Vanagon engine components, plus large-valve cylinder heads, mild cam, etc.
_________________
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Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper

Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)

http://www.vwt2oc.net


Last edited by NASkeet on Wed May 04, 2022 11:19 am; edited 2 times in total
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Takamotti
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2022 5:11 am    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

1600 typ1 buses are quite common where I live so I´ve owned few of them:

the difference I´ve seen is that on typ1 you can use oil temp meter as speedometer: at 80 km/h it reads 80 deg C, at 100 it´s 100 and you don´t really want to drive 120 km/h for a long time since it hits 120 degrees:)
Type 4 stays always below 100.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2022 10:09 am    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

Takamotti wrote:
1600 typ1 buses are quite common where I live so I´ve owned few of them:

the difference I´ve seen is that on typ1 you can use oil temp meter as speedometer: at 80 km/h it reads 80 deg C, at 100 it´s 100 and you don´t really want to drive 120 km/h for a long time since it hits 120 degrees:)
Type 4 stays always below 100.


A factory-standard, 1968~79 VW 1600 Type 2 would find it almost impossible to reach 120 km/h unless it was travelling downhill, aided by a tailwind. Oil temperature is very much dependent upon both engine load and ambient air temperature.

Here in southern England in summer, the engine oil temperature of my 1973 VW 1600 Type 2 campervan would start to creep past 110 deg.C if one drove at circa 60 mph (i.e. 96 km/h) for less than half an hour. When the Minnow Fish carburettor & inlet manifold suffered from icing during the winter of 1990/91, the oil temperature barely crept above 50 deg.C at speeds in excess of 40 mph (i.e. 64 km/h).
_________________
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Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper

Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2022 12:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

True, stock 1600 won't be that fast. Last one I had was with ratio rockers, better exhaust and 36 webers. So I guess about 70 hp, similar to 2.0 type 4. But a big difference in oil temps, like I mentioned.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2022 10:41 am    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

NASkeet wrote:
In the UK, people have successfully used the 76 mm stroke crankshaft & 228 mm flywheel from the 2.1 litre water-cooled VW Transporter T3 (i.e. VW Vanagon in USA parlance) flat-four engine, in the VW Type 1 Beetle style air-cooled engine crankcase. In addition to the stronger 5-bolt flywheel attachment, the crankshaft has larger bearing journals and extra webbing.

Although it is rumoured that bearing sets for the water-cooled, flat-4 petrol engines, are hard to obtain in the USA, I believe they are readily obtainable in Great Britain & Europe.

Home > Forums > Tech Forums > Aircooled Mechanical Tech >T1 waterboxer crank conversion bearings?

https://www.volkszone.com/threads/t1-waterboxer-crank-conversion-bearings.1102250/#post-11863346

The early-1913 cc and llate-1913 cc & 2109 cc engines, have 215 mm and 228 mm diameter clutches respectively, so these are likely to be subject to the same clutch-housing clearance requirements, as the 1968~79 VW 1600 Type 2, 1972~75 VW 17/1800 Type 2 and 1976~79 VW 2000 Type 2 engines.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=341186

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


One passing acquaintance of mine, by the name of John R. Long, in Burton Pidsea, near Hull, Humberside, England, had such a modified, 1776 or 1835 cc, VW Type 1 style engine, built by Laurie Pettitt, for his 1971~79 VW 1600 Type 2, using the water-cooled Vanagon engine components, plus large-valve cylinder heads, mild cam, etc.



I don't know whether Laurie Pettitt is still in business these days, as I strongly suspect he reached pensionable age more than a few years ago, if the following topic thread on the Volkszone forum is anything to go by:

Home > Forums > Community > Chat/Discussion > Speed awareness course. Go or no?

https://www.volkszone.com/threads/speed-awareness-course-go-or-no.693384/#post-7553042

The content would suggest, that Laurie Pettitt was aged 61 in February 2011, which would make him at least 72 now! However, there might be some information about his use of the water-boxer crankshafts, main bearings, connecting-rods and flywheels on one or more of the British & irish VW forums, plus his Haynes air-cooled VW engines book.

Laurie Pettitt, Volkswagen Air-Cooled Engine Rebuild Manual: Stripping, inspecting and rebuilding VW air-cooled engines (Haynes Engine Rebuild Manuals) Hardcover,J H Haynes & Co Ltd, 22nd January 2014, ASIN B00I636W32

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laurie-Pettitt-Volkswagen-Air-Cooled-inspecting/dp/B00I636W32

It appears that there might be at least one engine builder in Great Britain who is mimicking Laurie Pettitt's use of the 68·9 mm or 76·0 mm stroke crankshafts, with matching connecting rods and 5-bolt flywheels, from the 1983~92 VW Vanagon (i.e. T3 or Type 25), 1913 cc or 2109 cc, water-cooled, flat-4 petrol engines, of which one is Afonso Motors in Wales.

Afonso Motors, Unit D2, Kef Business Park, Coppi Industrial Estate, Rhosllanerchrugog- Wrexham, LL14 1TJ, Wales, UK

E-mail: [email protected]

Tel. +44 (0) 7951 - 043 121

Website: https://afonsomotors.com


https://afonsomotors.com/about-us

https://afonsomotors.com/contact

https://afonsomotors.com/services

https://afonsomotors.com/gallery

https://afonsomotors.com/engines



VW Air cooled 1955cc Waterboxer crank conversion

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmBKW4Wf4hU

Afonso Motors, Rhos, Wrexham, United Kingdom

https://www.facebook.com/afonsomotorscom

If I were ever going to use a VW Type 1 related engine again in a 1972~79 VW Type 2, I would probably use a CT-Series, 1980~83 VW 1600 Vanagon flat-four engine.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=349864

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This picture, of a 1980~83 VW 1600 Vanagon, CT-series, air-cooled engine, installed in a British specification, 1974 VW 1800 Type 2 campervan, was originally featured in:

David Eccles, "Peaches & Dream", Volkswagen Camper & Commercial, Issue 5, Winter 2001, Pages 6~9.

Note that the photograph has been incorrectly printed, with the left & right-hand sides transposed, which to those knowledgeable about 1973~79 VW Type 2s, would be obvious, from the apparent shape of the engine-bay perimeter and the positions of the spare-wheel well and computer-diagnostics socket!

A corrected, mirror-image version of this, may be seen on Photobucket, at the following link:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj287/naskeet/CT-engine.jpg
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Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper

Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)

http://www.vwt2oc.net
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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2022 8:52 am    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

In one of the appendices re car engine specifications & modifications, on Page 233 of his book, A. Graham Bell states the following about boring & stroking VW Type 1 & 3 style air-cooled engine:

A. Graham Bell, “Performance Tuning in Theory & Practice – Four Strokes”, Foulis Ltd – Haynes Publishing Group, Revised Edition, February 1988, ISBN 0-85429-275-6.

https://www.scribd.com/document/419341028/Performa...m-Bell-pdf

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tuning-Theory-Practice-Strokes/dp/0854292756

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Performance-Tuning-Theory-Practice-Strokes/dp/B00168VOTG

https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/3106486-performance-tuning-in-theory-and-practice

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stroke (mm)

. . . . . . . . . . . . 69 . . . . . . 74 . . . . . . 76 . . . . . . 78 . . . . . . 82

Bore (mm)

87 . . . . . . . . . 1641 . . . . . 1760 . . . . 1807 . . . . 1855 . . . . 1950

88 . . . . . . . . . 1679 . . . . . 1800 . . . . 1849 . . . . 1897 . . . . 1995

90•5 . . . . . . . 1775 . . . . . 1904 . . . . 1956 . . . . 2007 . . . . 2110

92 . . . . . . . . . 1835 . . . . . 1968 . . . . 2020 . . . . 2074 . . . . 2180

94 . . . . . . . . . 1915 . . . . . 2054 . . . . 2110 . . . . 2165 . . . . 2276

« Note: the 88 x 76 or 90•5 x 74 combination is the most reliable for road or rally use. The crankcase must be machined to accept 90•5 or 92 mm barrels. The weakness in the case can cause cracking behind No. 3 cylinder unless the case is carefully welded for additional strength. Engines using 78 or 82 mm cranks will require clearance machining of the piston skirts and crankcase; and the camshaft thrust shoulder must be re-radiused to clear No. 4 con-rod. For racing, Porsche rods should be used with 78 and 82 mm stroker cranks. Special cranks are available to suit these rods. »


74 mm stroke & 88 mm bore => 1800 cm³

74 mm stroke & 90•5 mm bore => 1904 cm³

76 mm stroke & 88 mm bore => 1849 cm³

76 mm stroke & 90•5 bore => 1956 cm³ [as offered by Afonso Motors in North Wales, UK]

The 2•1 litre water-boxer engine, with 76 mm stroke & 94 mm bore has a displacement of 2110 cm³. For the British market, this engine was rated at 112 horsepower, with a compression ratio of 10•5:1 using readily available 4-star, 97 RON petrol. For two-wheel drive vehicles, it was also matched using a 228 mm clutch to the factory-standard five-speed transmission (i.e. reverse plus 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th & 5th gears), which differs from the four-wheel drive Syncro vehicles which essentially have a four-speed transmission with a supplementary crawler gear for off-road use (i.e. reverse plus 0th, 1st, 2nd, 3rd & 4th gears).

https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/vw-info/t3-t25/gearbox-codes/

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/lit/1987_transporter.php

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/lit/1987_transporter_tech.php

1987 British VW Transporter T3, Engine & Transmission Specifications

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


1983 British VW Transporter T3, New Water-Cooled Boxer Engine & 5-Speed Transmission

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper

Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)

http://www.vwt2oc.net
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2022 9:02 am    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

I HAVE A COMPLETE CONVERSION KIT FOR SALE IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2566682
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2022 10:03 am    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

bugbenginer wrote:
I HAVE A COMPLETE CONVERSION KIT FOR SALE IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2566682


Having had a 1973 VW 1600 Type 2 with VW 1600 Type 1 Beetle style air-cooled engine (upright cooling), the illustrated "moustache-bar" does NOT appear to be appropriate for a 1972~79 VW 17/18/2000 Type 2 conversion!?!

Please elaborate!
_________________
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper

Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)

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Sash_Bay
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Joined: February 16, 2022
Posts: 47
Location: Stillwater, MN
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2022 10:46 am    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

Second bus doing this now, still running no mustache bar at all. No issues, no worries.


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Keep cruising!!
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consvws
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Joined: April 07, 2009
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Location: Roseburg, OR
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2022 11:43 am    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

So the whole weight of the engine & trans is hanging from the top 2 bell housing bolts! Yikes, don't hit any big bumps in the road.
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Sash_Bay
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2022 11:50 am    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

consvws wrote:
So the whole weight of the engine & trans is hanging from the top 2 bell housing bolts! Yikes, don't hit any big bumps in the road.


That scenario would depend on the year, and agree with you. "OUCH"
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consvws
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2022 12:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

Any 72 and later bus is like this, sooooo, yeah if that's how you run your late bay you are hanging by a couple threads, lol

Here's a pic of what I'm talking about, found pic in gallery. I have seen those top ears broken off before.
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NASkeet
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Joined: April 29, 2006
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Location: South Benfleet, Essex, UK
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2022 12:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

consvws wrote:
So the whole weight of the engine & trans is hanging from the top 2 bell housing bolts! Yikes, don't hit any big bumps in the road.


That was my immediate thought too!!! Surprised Rolling Eyes


Sash_Bay wrote:
Second bus doing this now, still running no mustache bar at all. No issues, no worries.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Keep cruising!!



With the bodywork in such poor condition and those rediculously small wheels & much-too-low-profile tyres of probably wholly inadequate load rating, narrowed front suspension and inadequately supported engine, any British roadworthiness inspector, would probably order it off the road immediately, until ALL of those issues were properly addressed! Shocked

As it stands, it would infringe a whole host of construction and use regulations, potentiially resulting in a court appearance.
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Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper

Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
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Last edited by NASkeet on Thu Aug 18, 2022 12:37 pm; edited 1 time in total
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consvws
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2022 12:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

At very least wrap a chain under there in case they let loose Shocked
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consvws
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2022 12:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing a Type 1(upright cooling)engine into a Type 4 72+ FAQ Reply with quote

Sash_Bay wrote:
consvws wrote:
So the whole weight of the engine & trans is hanging from the top 2 bell housing bolts! Yikes, don't hit any big bumps in the road.


That scenario would depend on the year, and agree with you. "OUCH"


Yes, it appears you have a 73 or later bus, so if you agree with me then get a support bar in there, or OUCH!
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