Porsche 914 1.8L Case Torque Sequence for the 6 Crankshaft bolts

[mturner7]

Hey Forum,

See photo attached. I know the torque sequence for this engine and I know how to crisscross the bolt patterns for a head torque.
But, cannot find what bolt is the #1, #2, #3, #4, #5 and #6.

Red or Black? The black pattern I got from a 911-6.

[raygreenwood]

I used your drawing and modified it.

None of the books I have contain an actual "diagram". I saw one somewhere years ago and still looking for it.

Both the Haynes 411/412 book and Haynes 914 box simply state work in an X pattern. Very good mechanics I met decades ago noted always start in the center and squeeze outward. Below are the two methods I learned and have used many times on type 4 engines and they both work excellent.

You can flip this one and start on bottom or top. It works in two large Vee's.

This one is the most commonly used. Tighten both center to the first stage, then opposite diagonal and same side diagonal and repeat. Basically the one you have in the upper right corner of your sketch.

Ray

[mturner7]

Hi Ray,

Thanks for the write-up. After reading your post, I found a write-up from ARP that I like, it matches what you said, thx.:

This is my final Torque Sequence for the 914-4 1.8L/2.0L Case, 6x Cam-Shaft bolts. Start in the middle with 1, then 2, then 3, then 4, then 5, then 6. Start in the middle and do an X or V.

ARP has a different set of Torque settings than the Porsche Manual, so I'm going to modify it a bit.
The Torque settings are for their 6 bolts, 12 washers, and 12 Nuts, cost $300: (I didn't see a photo of their bolts, but they are studs with nuts on both ends.)

========= ARP Write-up that comes with a purchased set of Bolts =======
1) After assembling the bottom end of the engine, but before applying curing sealants to crankcase halves and putting them together, prep the studs by applying the supplied ARP moly-lube to the threads on both ends of each stud and a non-hardening sealant such as Hylomar or Curil-T on both sides of the supplied washers.

2) Go ahead and put one nut and washer on each stud. Have them lying out ready to put in place as soon as the crankcase halves go together.

3) As time is of the essence, immediately after applying sealant to the crankcase halves and putting them together, install the studs, washers, and nuts as normal. The nuts fit either a 12-point 7/16” or 12-point 11mm socket.

4) Quickly tighten each nut to (20 ft-lb) [Change to 14- ft-lb] in the following sequence: 4 2 6 5 1 3 [Change to 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6]
See attached photo

5) Tighten the two bolts surrounding the #4 main bearing to the factory setting. [Not sure what this is or what they are talking about?]

6) Tighten the remaining bolts all around the crankcase to their factory settings.

7) Now that you can slow down once again, go back and retighten the six studs to (32 ft-lb) [Change to 24 ft-lb] in the same sequence.

Tighten nuts to final torque spec of (36 ft-lb) [Change to: Don't do!] again using the same sequence.

9) Repeat above step to ensure that all nuts received the proper preload.

10) Wipe off excess moly lube on studs.

I read where the new, never torqued ARP bolts, can take a higher torque value of 36 ft-lb's.

I don't suggest torqueing the German Factory Bolts to anything higher than the spec of 24 ft-lb's. I have seen individuals torque them to 26-28 ft-lb's. Does anyone have an opinion on this?