Bostig - My RG11 build

[MsTaboo]

The shim is just to provide some additional clamping power. Also some people are using different mufflers and there are slight differences in diameter of the pipe.
Place the shim opposite the bolt, it will help increase the clamping pressure.

A couple notes and thoughts about mounting the muffler.
It's very important that the flex coupling not be stressed in the resting position. Make sure as you line everything up that the flex coupling is not cocked one way or another. The flex coupling is there to absorb vibrations of the engine, not to assist in installation.

Best bet is to mount everything up (muffler hanging from straps) before tightening all the bolts and the pinch clamp. Get everything hanging lined up first then start tightening. Again the idea is to get it all lined up so the flex coupling is in a neutral position. Move the muffler around until it lines up with the down pipe and connecting the two does not cause the coupling to flex.

I've found it helps to use a muffler/tailpipe paste between the muffler and the outlet pipe to help create a good seal and reduce any leaks. And be sure to use a high temp anti-seize paste on the pinch clamp bolt. You will thank yourself when it comes time to replace the muffler. Otherwise that bolt will rust and heat meld into a unremovable lump!
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Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec

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[dobryan]

[dasilva]

I'm installing the engine skid plate.

Was I supposed to remove the circled with a cutting wheel? Or does it compress once I add the hardware through the backside of the van?

[TopBud]

so glad you asked this because I am about to instal mine in the next weekend or two.
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86 bostig SYNCRO
66 convertible Karmann Ghia

[yellowjacket]

As you can see, the tab will compress as you tighten the 3 upper bolts. Cutting the tab off is not necessary.
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86 Syncro Westy - Bostig RG11
71 Squareback

[dasilva]

Correct. No need to cut - it compresses with installation.

Drilling out spaces and then securing the locknuts with a 15mm through the oval holes was tight. The metal around those holes is pretty pliable.

[dasilva]

Does anyone have pictures of how they routed their ECU to the OBDII to the SCT? I find pictures helpful and have been unable to locate any!

[dasilva]

I hung the wire from the ECU to the OBDII/SCT for initial programming of the ECU and datalogging.

I purchased this device from Amazon. It provides wireless communication through Bluetooth to my smart phone via the Torque app. It plugs right into the ECU.

Unfortunately, the software for the wireless ELM327 is on a CD. Good luck finding a computer that still has a CD drive! I think instructions for how to install/configure must exist online, but I was unable to locate. Not sure if anyone else has used this device and could direct me to the appropriate website?

[dasilva]

Overall, installation of the Bostig conversion is complete. Most recently, I've been trying to get the van up and going. I was driving the van slowly and topping up transmission fluid. The next morning, I saw two pronounced spots on the asphalt.

Here are some pictures I snapped when under the van. I can see fluid (transmission fluid??) near the axle shafts of both the driver and passenger side. The speed ring is on the passenger side if that helps with orientation.

I think (?) I'm seeing the same fluid on the bottom of the tranny fluid pan.

I live in Calgary, Alberta. I sent a local VW shop/parts supplier the same pictures I posted above. Their response is :


From the picture you have sent - it looks like the axle seals are leaking for sure - it also looks like your transmission (assuming this is an Automatic) pan is also leaking.

Est only - repair of the axle seals - $720 parts and labor
Est only - repair of trans filter/ gasket $267.84

Please note - if the transmission has not been serviced in the past - its risky to do now as the friction material help the transmission to move will be thrown out in the fluid and cannot be replaced without overhauling the transmission - something we do not do.

I took my van to a transmission shop. In trying to access the axle seal a bolt sheared off. They suspect the diff could be 'piled up.' They also suspect there could be an issue with the transmission itself. They are warning that parts and/or a rebuilt VW Automatic Transmission (which to my understanding, was not common) are not readily available.

When I go to GoWesty's site - i see rebuilt Manual Transmissions. I see Syncro transmissions. But I do not see rebuilt Auto Transmissions. I see a thread on thesamba about rebuilding an '87 automatic transmission.

The transmission shop is telling me they need to drop the transmission (~$1000) before they can diagnose what the problem is - and at that point they cannot guarantee it can put it back together due to lack of availability of parts.

Is this true? Does anybody have knowledge of where I could find parts for my automatic transmission? Preferably in Canada, where I wouldn't be on the hook for crazy shipping costs?

[kourt]

Howdy,

Parts for the 090 VW automatic are plentiful from The Samba classifieds, the various vendors, and eBay.

You show pictures of the differential oil pan, above which the axles mate with the differential. That's not the transmission pan. It's the differential pan and it holds in the differential gear oil, not ATF. The transmission pan is the one farther forward where the dipstick tube is joined on its side. ATF should be red; differential oil should be clear or gray, and should have a sulphurous odor.

You can likely solve your differential oil leak without removing the transaxle.

Assuming your leak is differential oil and not ATF, here's what I would do to address your leak problem:

(Follow the Bentley manual for all these procedures)

1. put the van on ramps and remove both axles
2. make sure you can remove the 17mm hex plug for the diff oil fill--you want to be sure of this before proceeding.
3. remove the differential oil pan and drain the diff oil, and note the volume you drained
4. remove the transaxle output flanges--watch for the flange bolt that is opposite threaded and therefore requires clockwise turns to remove
5. unlock and remove the adjusting rings--mark them and count the turns to reinstall them in the same place
6. replace the o-rings that seal the adjusting rings (VW part number 011 519 345, sometimes supplied with gasket sets like this one). I'm not totally sure the o-ring you need is in this set. You can always take your old o-ring and size it and buy replacements online.
7. reinstall the adjusting rings and check for backlash in the differential (not necessary if you aren't changing the bearings, and using the "counting turns" method)
8. reinstall the output flanges
9. reinstall the diff oil pan with a new gasket (cork is fine, or fiber)
10. replace the differential oil through the 17mm hex plug
11. reinstall both axles

This work will take a day, and will require less than $50 in parts. This should address the most likely causes of the differential oil leak.

Here's my thread on rebuilding Vanagon automatics, and here's the part where I rebuild the autobox itself (not relevant to your problem), and here's the part where I rebuild my differential with a Peloquin, which involves much of the same work you'll be doing to fix your leak.

Also, if you have more questions, post them on the transaxle thread to get a broader audience. You will get much better help on that thread. Only folks with Bostigs are likely to see things in this thread.

kourt

[dasilva]

wow. thanks.

[dasilva]

I do not have a clean enough workspace, or perhaps the mechanical aptitude to complete such a task. These days, I'm leaning towards the lack of mechanical aptitude, haha.

It looks fun. Really.

But I have found a donor transmission and a mechanic who is comfortable switching my transmission. He has done other VW Conversions. Subaru for sure. Tiico, he is aware of.

Page 3 in the Bostig manual states to NOT have Automatic Transmission or Torque Converter rebuilt.

My 'special circumstance,' is that I damaged my transmission during commissioning. Is there anything I need to make my mechanic mindful of when replacing the transmission? It sounds like a silly question when I type it out loud, but does the Torque converter always needed to be replaced when using a donor transmission?

[kourt]

No, you don't have to replace the TC when replacing the transmission. I would flush it and go from there.

There is a Bostig automatic driveplate setup procedure video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWh6TLOFzLk

kourt

[dasilva]

My transmission is now working smoothly. However, I am noticing drops on the asphalt. I think the drops I am seeing is from the PCV system. The drops are clear but not evaporating from the asphalt.

During commissioning, the engine was hiccupping. Jim suggested pinching off the PCV line. There were thoughts that the oil separator might be compromised. Maybe I misunderstood Jim, but I started trying to remove the oil separator for inspection. In the process, I tore the hood the fits over the Rockauto PCV.

Attached is a screenshot of a new PCV hose as supplied from Dorman. Does anyone have experience with this product?

Does the engine need to be removed to install this new PCV hose onto the PCV system? It feels tight to get get tools (and hands!) onto the PCV system.

I think the oil separator is collecting a fraction of the unburned gasoline, rather than engine oil.

Part of my oil dipstick broke off, so I am unable to check engine oil level. Users on the samba say this is a common problem. I'm happy to not buy another dipstick that could suffer the same fate. Given that the oil dipstick is now too short to show a true level, are there any other methods to monitor oil level. (yes I'm looking under the vehicle for fluid drips, which makes getting the PCV system working smoother more urgent!)

Suggestions, advice, guidance always appreciated!!

[MsTaboo]

First off you need to determine what the drips are. Put something under the van to catch the drips and smell/feel the liquid. Is it oil, coolant, or hydraulic? Anti-freeze/coolant sometimes can take awhile to evaporate. Hydraulic fluid from the power steering or automatic transmission will be red. Oil drips could be the PVC system or something else. Need to look around for source.

To replace that rubber elbow will be a pain but you shouldn't have to pull engine. At most maybe the exhaust manifold but try to replace in situ first.

The broken dip stick can happen from bending the dipstick tube too much, causing the tip to hit the webbing on bottom of the block. One way to prevent a new stick from breaking is to insert the stick gently and giving it a bit of twist as you insert the last couple inches. This helps the tip find the opening in the web and you can feel the stick slide home.
_________________
Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec

The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
Help the fight against Truth Decay.
Defend democracy, support Ukraine.

[dasilva]

Thanks for the tips. I ordered the Dorman PCV hose. Should be here soon!

[dasilva]

To access the oil separator, i removed the exhaust.

I sheared a bolt upon re-installation. I tried to drill out sheared bolt with no success.

I've been told the only way to remove the remainder of the bolt is with a heli-coil.

When I youtube heli-coils, it seems like people are using drill presses. Do I need to remove the entire engine to use a drill-press to remove this bolt?

Jim mentioned something about a oil seprator block off, which I think includes a catch can, and a block off plate. Has anyone installed one of these? Are there any specific Ford Focus Oil Separator block off packages that would be recommended?

[mikemtnbike]

A heli-coil does not remove a bolt. A heli-coil creates a way for a bolt to sit in a tapped hole that no longer has enough "female" threads to hold a bolt. Not knowing anything about bostigs/Zetecs at all, but having a lot of experience with me boogering up threads- somehow, all the old bolt material has to come out. What you could is truly drill it out- like with a larger drill or better one the exact same diameter. Then, re-tap the hole and either install a helicoil or see if bolt bites in new threads. This is a pretty tedious job. May be worth towing to a shop who agrees to the work in advance from your pictures. May be worth removing whatever part of the motor that is attached to so can do on bench. Or, if you have really great access to that spot, can do in place.

This would be difficult in place though. You want the drill and tap to be super straight/aligned. I have a kit like this that helps a lot https://www.yourstoreonline.net/4-piece-metric-quick-center-drill-out-kit/id1136771/product.html. But, I think you're past that tool's usefulness.

I'd be trying on the bench and if I couldn't get it there, taking it to a machine shop or really really good mechanic.

Maybe others see easier answers, there's waaaay more experienced people than me on this forum.
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[Sycolyst]

Get a set of reverse drill bits. These will spin 'backwards' when drilling and help to screw the broken fastener out. Start small and increase the size of the bit until you catch the fastener. Good luck.
_________________
1985 Westy - Brown Brick
1974 Porsche 914
2004 Porsche 986 SE

[dasilva]

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to get a block off plate custom fabricated and buy a catch can, perhaps from Moroso.