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Gas in the oil
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Adriel Rowley
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Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Adriel Rowley is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2022 9:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Gas in the oil Reply with quote

No Ruby tomorrow, so staying up late to read through and reply, prefer doing computer stuff after dark so have as much daylight for sewing.


Eric&Barb wrote:
Adriel Rowley wrote:

I understood long ago. The Type 3, which came out August 1961 uses a pair of flaps mounted in an aluminium housing, don't see how a throttle ring work on a Type 3, so suspect this development was applied to the 1965 upright engines.


Exactly. Plus with the flaps one get more heat flow to the interior when it is needed the most.


How does flaps allow more heat than a throttle ring?


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Is there a quality supplier you know the name of?

If you were choosing between getting all the stock throttle ring parts or going with getting all the doghouse parts, which would you chose?


Not really, have just noticed from time to time some new made parts that have come up. Personally fine with good used parts.

Would get the stock for 1965 flaps system that was used on thru 1970, and install in the fan shroud you have now. Again the throttle ring was used till end of 1964. If you do get the dog house cooling system later, the parts are mostly the same as the 1965-70 flaps system. The single linkage part for 1965-70 is replaced with a three piece linkage in front of the dog house shroud. Everything else the same.


So the throttle ring fan shroud can be adapted for flaps?

Why go to this trouble rather than get a doghouse fan shroud?

I was going to find the three piece linage, bracket, and thermostat and install now while the engine is out, so don't have to pull again for the conversion.


Eric&Barb wrote:

I would suggest installing the Maxi 2 oil filter pump to keep crud and metal bits from going thru the main and rod bearings which slowly chews them up. Then collect up the dog house cooling system parts as you can, till you have everything to do the conversion with. Do not get one of the cheap Mexi thermostats, they report-ably fail in closed position and cook the engine. The German ones fail into the open flaps position instead.
Also do consider installing a set of oil pressure and oil temp electric gauges to keep track of the engine. The only other gauge we would recommend is for voltage. While the idiot lights are nice, have saved ourselves from needing to rebuild an engine several times due to having gauges.


Yes, really want one since first recommended, though expensive and money been tight. My plan was this to be purchased before the doghouse fan shroud conversion.

As for gauges, been wracking my brain trying to think of a way to mount them without additional holes into the dash, any ideas?

Dad was going to build a KR2 homebuilt aircraft, bio "mother" prevented it, and before I donated it to the EEA Eagles, I kept the compass, seems right to put it in Ruby since Dad's favorite earthly interest was aviation.

I have an oil pressure gauge in Baby, have a T installed so can use the stock port, found it in a junkyard, not sure where get another.

Why oil temperature over head temperature?

Bet if had head temperature gauge would have saved Baby's engine (the rubber boot came off).


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Why seems being secretive about saying the reason the engine be needing to be pulled on the side of the road? I am not aware of a clutch or throw out bearing failing with no warning and causing the vehicle to stall.


It is just that so many new owners of the older VWs seem to be afraid to pull the engine and get used to doing so. In turn to find out that it is not that hard and easier in the long run. Then when push comes to shove (whether at home or on the road) it is then known to be easily done and more likely to be done correctly.


That seems to explain why some or someone suggested shoving in pipe insulation instead replacing the stock body to engine seals. Even my friends don't seem to understand why went to so much trouble.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Stall no, but be a pain to operate without the clutch, especially in heavy traffic or down a twisty back road. EG the stock operating shaft have failed us several times. The arms have broken off where they were welded to the shaft. Thusly have gone to the "Heavy Duty" operating shaft from EMPI. So far that is the ONLY "Heavy Duty" advertised part and EMPI modern part we will use.


How did y'all break so many clutch arms? Running a heavier clutch springs?


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:
I tried once hole sawing through stainless steel to save about $150, yah, never did get through and possibly ruined the sink.


Stainless takes slow speed, a little oil, and sharp drill for sure. Plus drilling a small pilot hole first is a must.


So doesn't need a special drill?

Pilot hole was drilled, for the hole saw.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:
There is also the fact that no volunteer organization will allow me to volunteer because I have a Service Dog. I love to get out, however, I am at a loss where to go, any ideas welcome.


Perhaps look into something more outdoors. Like woodland native plant restoration. Heck, even just walking parks and trails when and where people tend to be. Having a dog is a good ice breaker. Maybe try the Unitarian church I found that they tend to be very nonjudgmental, they have all sorts of folks of different faiths.


Great idea, I miss hiking, haven't done it in ages and about month ago picked up for a step discount a pair of general purpose boots, been wanting such for about four years, couldn't afford (didn't want to buy hiking boots until sure be regularly using, my last pair was only used twice, second time the soles completely crumbled on a hike and made an unpleasant experience over the rocks).

Yes, even caused flirting though being on the spectrum I totally missed it, my friend told me later.

Oh and I have no clue to ask to meet someone again... Even when given a number, never did use it to "hang out", mostly because of not knowing how to proceed and my friend failed in his promise to assist me (probably several plus years ago).


Eric&Barb wrote:

Sorry to hear about how went with your folks!


Thank you. If had not happened, would not be the person I am today nor able to help others.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Tell me, right now I have nothing for breakfast tomorrow unless make French toast and make brown sugar syrup with maple flavoring (Oma did that, never used maple syrup). I have experienced numerous shortages, yet, here we are eating cold cereal with water.


French toast with a good jam, especially a berry, is really so good. Something in FT melts the thickening pectin of jam making it a drippy mess though. So either eat it on a plate warmed up or apply jam and eat very soon after as a cold sandwich. We always carry some precooked FT in the cooler on long trips to pull out to put on jam and eat right away.


I would not thought of having French toast cold or as a sandwich, interesting. I in fact have one more serving I was going to make up tomorrow, only have marmalade to try.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

I had a freezer full too, though too much and didn't get all eaten. I left it in the freezer and been made aware the electric was turned off, smells so bad from outside the house, typical asinine behavior by the trustee.


Perhaps you could can or dehydrate foods for later? We are doing both to reduce how much freezer space needed, and of course not risk as much to turn bad when power goes off. We have had power go out here for over 8 days. PITA to have to start up the petrol powdered generator to run the fridge and freezer every 4 hours to keep them cold enough. Usually not cold enough outside to keep stuff really frozen, and often when the big storms come thru that it is not cold enough for even fridge food to be safe. Every year we can our own apple sauce that is so much better than the stuff in the stores that is well tasteless. Last few days have canned chicken in broth with a little seasoning smoke. Yum....


So much to buy and not enough wiggle room... Laughing Though February not that far away, a dehydrator was in fact on the list. Partly because love dried bananas and apples, which are expensive.

As for apple sauce, totally agree! Oma and Opa had an apple tree, twice planted by birds, and Oma made fantastic apple sauce. Freeze up a large batch for summer, then put out in the morning and by afternoon defrosted yet icy cold, just what was wanted on a hot summer afternoon. I wish had my old house, mulberries were just coming and was going to plant an apple tree so could make my own apple sauce.

I tried canning, absolute failure.

Old power grid, right? Had that with the old house, not sure how fair out here, so can have a little sympathy. What about solar?


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:
The other thing is I don't eat foods with preservatives in them, cause GI issues for me. Maybe there is some dry ingredients that make a soup.


Ditto for other reasons for us. Might try organic dried soups, with minimal ingredients. Buy small samples and see if they work for you. At the very worst a base to add more ingredients to.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=organic+dried+soup+mixe...doa-p_2_18


Great idea, thank you! Very Happy

Well, I also rather not put unknown substances and possible carcinogenics in my temple.

I could see adding ground beef to it, though not when power is out, this house is all electric. That's basically what Oma do with freezer soup, meaning left over vegetables frozen during Spring and Summer. I don't eat vegetables (don't taste like used to and a lot of tough stems) so can't do freezer soup.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

This: https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-85184-Bulb-Greas...amp;sr=8-2 ?


That is reputably best for the bulbs themselves, but not for the rest of the connectors.


Why not connections?

I was trying to help you, by the way.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Yes, H4 headlights. I had H4s on my Mercedes and they are fantastic. I forget what wattage they are, believe stock, if I remember when over there I will look.


Stock VW for N. America was 50/55, and lowest H-4s we could find was 55/60 Watt.


I looked up what I bought and also the same, 55/60. Now I understand, adds 0,833 amps to the load, or about a 10 percent increase, right?


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:
Headlight switch is new, so it should be good to go, right?

What do you mean solder the internal connections in the fusebox?

How are you cleaning the wiring?


Depends if you have one of the older bell shaped switches or the later box shaped ones. Think that the 1965 model was the change over between the two switches. The riveted connections inside the bell shaped headlight switch are not sealed to keep out corrosion...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=483901&highlight=fuse+box+soldering

Here is how to solder up the fuse box internal connections:

http://www.type2.com/library/electris/vw-hauptlicht-schalter.html

Have either used vinegar or phosphoric acid. Then water rinse off, dry quickly, and apply dielectric grease.


Ruby is a 1964 so uses this: https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113941531C.

Now I understand not taking apart the switch, rather, dabbing a little solder on the external rivets.

Thank you for the links, good help. Very Happy

Why used vinegar over new?


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Do have me thinking, I have a friend with a 3D printer.


Will be interested with what you come up with!


Might be a while, got so many projects I been overwhelmed and near shutting down...
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 24757
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2022 11:54 am    Post subject: Re: Gas in the oil Reply with quote

Adriel Rowley wrote:

How does flaps allow more heat than a throttle ring?


Throttle ring by being upwind of the cooling fan prevents as much air being forced into the fan shroud.

Flaps are downwind of the fan at the bottom of the fan shroud, so fan is not restricted. In turn this means the fan shroud with the fresh air tubes going to the heat exchangers gets all of the air pumped into the shroud, and with the flaps closed off that additional air flow that would go to the cylinders when engine is up to operating temp is then diverted to the heating system.

Adriel Rowley wrote:

So the throttle ring fan shroud can be adapted for flaps?

Why go to this trouble rather than get a doghouse fan shroud?

I was going to find the three piece linage, bracket, and thermostat and install now while the engine is out, so don't have to pull again for the conversion.


It could, but personally would just find a 1965-70 single port fan shroud and use that for now. That fan shroud is so common and can be had for next to nothing. That with the bigger than 40HP cooling fan of 29mm would be a step up in cooling. Then you can take your time finding all of the dog house parts and with doing it the slow way it can be done on a limited budget. Shipping has become so darned expensive. Used to be just two years ago we could ship from W to E coast a rear tin in a 9x9x32 inch box weighing only 5 Lbs. for $32, and now it is about $65 for same.

Plus not converting the throttle ring shroud means if you or the next owner wants to, they can restore the beetle to factory easily.

Adriel Rowley wrote:
Yes, really want one since first recommended, though expensive and money been tight. My plan was this to be purchased before the doghouse fan shroud conversion.

As for gauges, been wracking my brain trying to think of a way to mount them without additional holes into the dash, any ideas?

Dad was going to build a KR2 homebuilt aircraft, bio "mother" prevented it, and before I donated it to the EEA Eagles, I kept the compass, seems right to put it in Ruby since Dad's favorite earthly interest was aviation.

I have an oil pressure gauge in Baby, have a T installed so can use the stock port, found it in a junkyard, not sure where get another.

Why oil temperature over head temperature?

Bet if had head temperature gauge would have saved Baby's engine (the rubber boot came off).


Think you are up in the N Hemisphere, if so the weather and seasons will be cooler for the next 8 months or so. So a quicker less expensive fan shroud upgrade for now and get the oil filter pump sooner.

Mounting gauges by using new super strong magnets, or make a gauge holder that clamps onto the steering column, or even use the same mounting bolts for the steering column.

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=VW+gauge+send...252C5079.1

Have machined those "T" brass fitting into a more "X" fitting to install oil temp, oil pressure and the stock idiot light sender in one.

Personally dislike mechanical gauges due to having mini oil lines that can leak any where they might be rubbed/chaffed thru. Oil temp gauge sender is much more easily replaceable that a head temp gauge and gauge less expensive to buy in good used shape, while the sender new is also less $$. Plus the head temp sender by most common used VDO goes around one of the spark plugs. When you need to remove said spark plug for replacing, cleaning and/or adjusting it is all too easy to damage the head temp sender. Been thinking about a way to bolt the sender to the head and not with the spark plug, but is still not easy to replace that sender.

Both head temp and oil temp will register an increase in engine temp soon enough. Where head temp is much better is if one is doing extreme high RPM racing. Once had a fan belt turn into a string that kept the cooling fan turning just enough that the gen light did not light up, and the oil temp gauge showed the sudden change in oil temp before engine got too hot.

Not saying head temp or other gauges are a waste of time or money, but instead that this is the basic gauges one should have.

Adriel Rowley wrote:

That seems to explain why some or someone suggested shoving in pipe insulation instead replacing the stock body to engine seals. Even my friends don't seem to understand why went to so much trouble.


Plus anything like that could come loose like that and get sucked int he fan is not good!

Adriel Rowley wrote:

How did y'all break so many clutch arms? Running a heavier clutch springs?


On the buses have used the original VW nine spring clutch pressure plate where the beetle used only 6 springs, so definitely a stiffer PP in the bus. Still have seen enough where in a beetle or bus running stock six spring where the operating shaft has lost one of the arms that the throw out bearing seats into. It is the stock arms are kind of spot welded to the operating shaft. So if we were to use such would run a bead of weld around each arm base.

Stock operating shaft and the throw out bearing are weak links in the clutch. Known of lots of autos from Nippon that will not have the engine out for over 250,000 miles and the throw out bearing just keeps going on, while the old ACVW throw out bearings are pretty much worn out at 50,000 miles. Have found that replacing the grease in the TO bearing will double or triple bearing longevity, but that does require engine removal. So have done so when other maintenance was required.

Adriel Rowley wrote:

So doesn't need a special drill?

Pilot hole was drilled, for the hole saw.


Most hole saws (the ones with the teeth like a wood saw) are really best for wood or plastic or very soft steel. To do harder metals a hole saw with carbide cutting edge would be vastly better. Of course a HSS drill bit is needed for pilot holes.

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Thank you. If had not happened, would not be the person I am today nor able to help others.


Totally agree. It is the folks who wallow in and use that past as an excuse to do nothing or bad things that are ridiculous.

Adriel Rowley wrote:

I would not thought of having French toast cold or as a sandwich, interesting. I in fact have one more serving I was going to make up tomorrow, only have marmalade to try.


Personally berry jams are better, but if marmalade works for you! Either way better than cheap fake maple syrup.

Adriel Rowley wrote:

So much to buy and not enough wiggle room... Laughing Though February not that far away, a dehydrator was in fact on the list. Partly because love dried bananas and apples, which are expensive.

As for apple sauce, totally agree! Oma and Opa had an apple tree, twice planted by birds, and Oma made fantastic apple sauce. Freeze up a large batch for summer, then put out in the morning and by afternoon defrosted yet icy cold, just what was wanted on a hot summer afternoon. I wish had my old house, mulberries were just coming and was going to plant an apple tree so could make my own apple sauce.

I tried canning, absolute failure.

Old power grid, right? Had that with the old house, not sure how fair out here, so can have a little sympathy. What about solar?


Look into making your own dehydrator. Back in the 1980s my mom made one with wood for box and shelves, and light bulbs for heat. Would be easy to take a toaster oven and computer fan/s. There are also plans for solar dehydrators if most of your dehydrating is in the hot summer, or if you have a south facing window...

Try canning water to practice with that till you get it right. That way super low cost to do so Biggest mistake seen online is folks tighten lids WAY TOO TIGHT. Canning lids must function as a one way valve. Too tight on and the lid will not let out the boiling water pressure inside the jar to make a good vacuum when cooled. We are switching to Tattler and Harvest Guard two piece reusable canning lids and they stress that the lids need to be just snug.

Actually not that old of grid here, but twice now have had about 24" of wet snow and twice ice storms that bring trees down all over. Definitely want to do solar, but the battery options right now are too pricey.

Speaking of solar, have you looked into passive solar heating?? I put up a 8x12 foot collector on the south side of our mobile home and save easily 20-30% of our fire wood for heat over the Fall & Winter. Made a huge difference when we both worked and found the house heated up with the daylight. Nice not to have to stoke the wood stove for the rest of the evening to just barely get comfortable just before bed. Even in the cloudy PNW if the sun disc is showing thru the clouds some heat gets into the house. Used expensive Suntuff polycarbonate roofing to make ours, but could have made it from used glass window glass for much less, but would have taken longer to do.

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Why not connections?

I was trying to help you, by the way.


Just what we have picked up from others. Have not found a reputable source of why. Yes I know, thanks.



Adriel Rowley wrote:

I looked up what I bought and also the same, 55/60. Now I understand, adds 0,833 amps to the load, or about a 10 percent increase, right?


Yes, that is all it took to heat up parts of the fuse box and wiring to burn fingers on, plus start to melt the fuse box in our 1963 single cab.

Adriel Rowley wrote:


Thank you for the links, good help. Very Happy

Why used vinegar over new?


Glad to help. Whoops, should read "use vinegar".


Adriel Rowley wrote:

Might be a while, got so many projects I been overwhelmed and near shutting down...


Just make two lists. One that you want to do, and one for the absolutely need to do. Then check each once a week. Sometimes you will switch a project to the other list. Just try to get a project done once a month if not sooner, or at least the ball rolling on one, like collecting materials for it.

Please do update your profile with your general area location. That gives folks out your way that you are in their area and they might offer up parts or a little help.
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Adriel Rowley
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2022 10:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Gas in the oil Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Adriel Rowley wrote:

How does flaps allow more heat than a throttle ring?


Throttle ring by being upwind of the cooling fan prevents as much air being forced into the fan shroud.

Flaps are downwind of the fan at the bottom of the fan shroud, so fan is not restricted. In turn this means the fan shroud with the fresh air tubes going to the heat exchangers gets all of the air pumped into the shroud, and with the flaps closed off that additional air flow that would go to the cylinders when engine is up to operating temp is then diverted to the heating system.


So once the engine has been run a few minutes with a flap system the heat can be turned on?

When Dad was driving Ruby, it take a really long time to get heat and would barely come out of the defrost vents. One day I took a hanky and wiped the windshield, that became something he kind of expected when fog over. Would a flap system give more air out the defrost vents? Or would it be improved by the larger fan?


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:
Yes, really want one since first recommended, though expensive and money been tight. My plan was this to be purchased before the doghouse fan shroud conversion.

As for gauges, been wracking my brain trying to think of a way to mount them without additional holes into the dash, any ideas?

Dad was going to build a KR2 homebuilt aircraft, bio "mother" prevented it, and before I donated it to the EEA Eagles, I kept the compass, seems right to put it in Ruby since Dad's favorite earthly interest was aviation.

I have an oil pressure gauge in Baby, have a T installed so can use the stock port, found it in a junkyard, not sure where get another.

Why oil temperature over head temperature?

Bet if had head temperature gauge would have saved Baby's engine (the rubber boot came off).


Think you are up in the N Hemisphere, if so the weather and seasons will be cooler for the next 8 months or so. So a quicker less expensive fan shroud upgrade for now and get the oil filter pump sooner.


Is my British accent that strong? Razz Laughing (I been mistaken for a Brit, especially after living with Middle Eastern roommates for almost a year, twice asked for directions in Toronto.) I never been taught of as being from New England, interesting.

If I was, I ask Mustie or 5150 if have the parts.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Mounting gauges by using new super strong magnets, or make a gauge holder that clamps onto the steering column, or even use the same mounting bolts for the steering column.


Duh, especially magnets. This is appreciated, seems my brain hasn't been in my skull for weeks.


Eric&Barb wrote:

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=VW+gauge+send...252C5079.1

Have machined those "T" brass fitting into a more "X" fitting to install oil temp, oil pressure and the stock idiot light sender in one.

Personally dislike mechanical gauges due to having mini oil lines that can leak any where they might be rubbed/chaffed thru. Oil temp gauge sender is much more easily replaceable that a head temp gauge and gauge less expensive to buy in good used shape, while the sender new is also less $$. Plus the head temp sender by most common used VDO goes around one of the spark plugs. When you need to remove said spark plug for replacing, cleaning and/or adjusting it is all too easy to damage the head temp sender. Been thinking about a way to bolt the sender to the head and not with the spark plug, but is still not easy to replace that sender.


Duh again.

It is an electrical pressure gauge, bought it brand new after found the fitting.

Yes, good point about it being damaged. What is the reason it is difficult to put under a head nut? If a 1500/1600 head, there is a casting for a temperature sender, Type 3s use it for their FI.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Both head temp and oil temp will register an increase in engine temp soon enough. Where head temp is much better is if one is doing extreme high RPM racing. Once had a fan belt turn into a string that kept the cooling fan turning just enough that the gen light did not light up, and the oil temp gauge showed the sudden change in oil temp before engine got too hot.

Not saying head temp or other gauges are a waste of time or money, but instead that this is the basic gauges one should have.


I was just curious the reason for the recommendation, understand if I had the bread could throw six in there, though not racing as said so be no point.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

That seems to explain why some or someone suggested shoving in pipe insulation instead replacing the stock body to engine seals. Even my friends don't seem to understand why went to so much trouble.


Plus anything like that could come loose like that and get sucked int he fan is not good!


The boot is more likely to block the fan, it is really stiff rubber.

The reason this happens is because as the engine hanger rubber gets old, it collapses and the engine lowers, so the boot is forced to stretch more than designed to. When I put the replacement engine in, raised the mounts using washers.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

How did y'all break so many clutch arms? Running a heavier clutch springs?


On the buses have used the original VW nine spring clutch pressure plate where the beetle used only 6 springs, so definitely a stiffer PP in the bus. Still have seen enough where in a beetle or bus running stock six spring where the operating shaft has lost one of the arms that the throw out bearing seats into. It is the stock arms are kind of spot welded to the operating shaft. So if we were to use such would run a bead of weld around each arm base.


Oh, that arm, thought meant the one the clutch cable connects to...

Bummer my welder is in storage and out of gas, could have done that, right now in fact sitting on the table (was waiting and never got an answer how to fully seat the input shaft seal).


Eric&Barb wrote:

Stock operating shaft and the throw out bearing are weak links in the clutch. Known of lots of autos from Nippon that will not have the engine out for over 250,000 miles and the throw out bearing just keeps going on, while the old ACVW throw out bearings are pretty much worn out at 50,000 miles. Have found that replacing the grease in the TO bearing will double or triple bearing longevity, but that does require engine removal. So have done so when other maintenance was required.


I assume Ruby's bearing is low miles, transmission rebuilt not that long ago. Did check and sounds fine. Never thought to see about re-greasing, will do so while have the chance.

Probably take me at least ten years to put 50,000 miles on, by the way.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

So doesn't need a special drill?

Pilot hole was drilled, for the hole saw.


Most hole saws (the ones with the teeth like a wood saw) are really best for wood or plastic or very soft steel. To do harder metals a hole saw with carbide cutting edge would be vastly better. Of course a HSS drill bit is needed for pilot holes.


It was HSS for steel, however, not carbide tipped. I appreciate the help.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

I would not thought of having French toast cold or as a sandwich, interesting. I in fact have one more serving I was going to make up tomorrow, only have marmalade to try.


Personally berry jams are better, but if marmalade works for you! Either way better than cheap fake maple syrup.


It is what I have and wanted to try this morning. It is good, will defiantly try the berry.

Yes, I need to replace my real maple syrup.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

So much to buy and not enough wiggle room... Laughing Though February not that far away, a dehydrator was in fact on the list. Partly because love dried bananas and apples, which are expensive.

As for apple sauce, totally agree! Oma and Opa had an apple tree, twice planted by birds, and Oma made fantastic apple sauce. Freeze up a large batch for summer, then put out in the morning and by afternoon defrosted yet icy cold, just what was wanted on a hot summer afternoon. I wish had my old house, mulberries were just coming and was going to plant an apple tree so could make my own apple sauce.

I tried canning, absolute failure.

Old power grid, right? Had that with the old house, not sure how fair out here, so can have a little sympathy. What about solar?


Look into making your own dehydrator. Back in the 1980s my mom made one with wood for box and shelves, and light bulbs for heat. Would be easy to take a toaster oven and computer fan/s. There are also plans for solar dehydrators if most of your dehydrating is in the hot summer, or if you have a south facing window...


In fact I have a toaster oven with a stay warm setting, I will have to research (not when almost two hours past bedtime) what heat it needs, might already have it.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Try canning water to practice with that till you get it right. That way super low cost to do so Biggest mistake seen online is folks tighten lids WAY TOO TIGHT. Canning lids must function as a one way valve. Too tight on and the lid will not let out the boiling water pressure inside the jar to make a good vacuum when cooled. We are switching to Tattler and Harvest Guard two piece reusable canning lids and they stress that the lids need to be just snug.


Great idea.

I did fine on sealing the first and only time, the thing is I have difficulty standing long periods of time and since takes all day, can't physically do that anymore.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Actually not that old of grid here, but twice now have had about 24" of wet snow and twice ice storms that bring trees down all over. Definitely want to do solar, but the battery options right now are too pricey.


At the old place it was an old grid, lots of outages, mostly when rained though sometimes no apparent reason. Did it all year, too.

You know I have only seen snow fall twice in my life and been in falling snow for about five minutes? It was wet and sticky snow, so stuck to my face, plus was trying to beat the heavier snow before had to chain, didn't have any and no hotels for hours. Ended up getting a speeding ticket and because of out of state, the officer made up how fast I was going, vehicle wasn't even capable to do 88MPH as the turbocharger was out (Mercedes Wagen full of stuff and a Golden Retriever). To fight it mean I have to do a six hour drive from an airport, figured small chance extradite me, so never paid. Now many years later and wiser, I should have paid; don't even remember the name of the nearest town.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Speaking of solar, have you looked into passive solar heating?? I put up a 8x12 foot collector on the south side of our mobile home and save easily 20-30% of our fire wood for heat over the Fall & Winter. Made a huge difference when we both worked and found the house heated up with the daylight. Nice not to have to stoke the wood stove for the rest of the evening to just barely get comfortable just before bed. Even in the cloudy PNW if the sun disc is showing thru the clouds some heat gets into the house. Used expensive Suntuff polycarbonate roofing to make ours, but could have made it from used glass window glass for much less, but would have taken longer to do.


Before my house was stolen, I used thermal mass in the form of empty bleach and vinegar jugs filled with water, made a huge difference. I had not considered a collector, neat. Though not sure how the apartment management like me doing that, plus only two small south facing windows, both bedrooms (well one s my workroom).


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

I looked up what I bought and also the same, 55/60. Now I understand, adds 0,833 amps to the load, or about a 10 percent increase, right?


Yes, that is all it took to heat up parts of the fuse box and wiring to burn fingers on, plus start to melt the fuse box in our 1963 single cab.


Yikes.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Might be a while, got so many projects I been overwhelmed and near shutting down...


Just make two lists. One that you want to do, and one for the absolutely need to do. Then check each once a week. Sometimes you will switch a project to the other list. Just try to get a project done once a month if not sooner, or at least the ball rolling on one, like collecting materials for it.


I certainly will try that. Last two days, knocked out one trial pair and three trial pair of knit underpants, wearing the trial pair today and feels great to finally have something that fits (I have a unique figuration so none of my OTR clothes fit and no where near comfortable, why taught myself to sew).


Eric&Barb wrote:

Please do update your profile with your general area location. That gives folks out your way that you are in their area and they might offer up parts or a little help.


I been here many years and no one has offered help or parts, I am physically all alone, as in most areas of my life.

Well, been sounding like it has been a light rain, hopefully some more after de-stink myself and finally get horizontal, helps with my trouble falling asleep (my mind thinks too much).
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2022 2:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Gas in the oil Reply with quote

Hey Eric, turns out it is a 034.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


After several hours of research, clearly see it is the wrong distributor.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2022 1:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Gas in the oil Reply with quote

Adriel Rowley wrote:
Hey Eric, turns out it is a 034.
After several hours of research, clearly see it is the wrong distributor.


Well it should sort of work for now. Made for later 1600 dual port......

https://web.archive.org/web/20120915125032/http://www.oldvolkshome.com/ovhignbo.htm

Add to the list for the big cap 40 HP distributor.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2022 2:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Gas in the oil Reply with quote

Adriel Rowley wrote:

So once the engine has been run a few minutes with a flap system the heat can be turned on?

When Dad was driving Ruby, it take a really long time to get heat and would barely come out of the defrost vents. One day I took a hanky and wiped the windshield, that became something he kind of expected when fog over. Would a flap system give more air out the defrost vents? Or would it be improved by the larger fan?


Well one can leave the heat turned on before even starting the engine. It does not matter if fresh air or stale air or throttle ring or flaps. Yes, the flaps push more warm and later hotter air into the interior sooner better, and thusly out the defrost vents better. Bigger fan will help even more. In colder weather and stop in go traffic the thermostat will often just stay closed for either the throttle ring or the flaps. So under those conditions the throttle ring just does not allow for lots of warm/hot dry air when you need that the most.
Lots of fogging of the windshield can be a sign that the front windshield is leaking and that drips thru the drain holes in the window opening and in turn drips down into the "A" pillars. From there it gets into the heater channels rusting them out. Even VW used a sealant on the front and rear glass. Read up in the VW Dealer "Damage Numbers" Manual here:
http://www.oacdp.org/

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Duh, especially magnets. This is appreciated, seems my brain hasn't been in my skull for weeks.


No problem!

Adriel Rowley wrote:
]
Yes, good point about it being damaged. What is the reason it is difficult to put under a head nut? If a 1500/1600 head, there is a casting for a temperature sender, Type 3s use it for their FI.


Think that the head nut might be thrown off by all the cooling air going over the rest of the stud. Want to drill and tap as close to a spark plug instead.


Adriel Rowley wrote:

I did fine on sealing the first and only time, the thing is I have difficulty standing long periods of time and since takes all day, can't physically do that anymore.


Should not need to take all day. Guessing you need to do smaller batches. When the rainy colder days come along we are sitting on the couch cutting up apples while catching up on TV. Next day cook them down, and can one batch. Does need a couple of good sized pots. Found one at a swap meet and the other at the local scrap yard. Both are stainless steel with lids.

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Before my house was stolen, I used thermal mass in the form of empty bleach and vinegar jugs filled with water, made a huge difference. I had not considered a collector, neat. Though not sure how the apartment management like me doing that, plus only two small south facing windows, both bedrooms (well one s my workroom).


You can still improve on those windows for pulling in heat. Some cardboard to duct the coldest air from the floor up to the window should make a difference. Some holes covered with plastic to still let in the light.

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Well, been sounding like it has been a light rain, hopefully some more after de-stink myself and finally get horizontal, helps with my trouble falling asleep (my mind thinks too much).


Try a white noise generator, or perhaps radio turned onto the most boring radio station at low volume to help get to sleep??
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2022 3:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Gas in the oil Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Adriel Rowley wrote:

So once the engine has been run a few minutes with a flap system the heat can be turned on?

When Dad was driving Ruby, it take a really long time to get heat and would barely come out of the defrost vents. One day I took a hanky and wiped the windshield, that became something he kind of expected when fog over. Would a flap system give more air out the defrost vents? Or would it be improved by the larger fan?


Well one can leave the heat turned on before even starting the engine. It does not matter if fresh air or stale air or throttle ring or flaps. Yes, the flaps push more warm and later hotter air into the interior sooner better, and thusly out the defrost vents better. Bigger fan will help even more. In colder weather and stop in go traffic the thermostat will often just stay closed for either the throttle ring or the flaps. So under those conditions the throttle ring just does not allow for lots of warm/hot dry air when you need that the most.


I do not remember warm air coming when the engine was first turned on.

The times with Dad there was no stop and go traffic, we didn't live in Los Angeles and only once took me to work (I barely remember, I was about five, and didn't know until after he passed and found pictures of his workplace).


Eric&Barb wrote:
Lots of fogging of the windshield can be a sign that the front windshield is leaking and that drips thru the drain holes in the window opening and in turn drips down into the "A" pillars. From there it gets into the heater channels rusting them out. Even VW used a sealant on the front and rear glass. Read up in the VW Dealer "Damage Numbers" Manual here:
http://www.oacdp.org/


Both front and back of heater channels are rusted, possibly because of water getting into the pillars?

Now you mention it, remember it only happening when raining. The windshield was replaced in the mid 1970s, Dad had not experienced ice and used a table knife, scratching the windshield. Dad worked out on the military base on Point Loma, plus for about eight years lived on the coast. Baby lived on Point Loma and has a lot of rust for a Southern California car.

I am so glad we didn't get the windshield in, going to order the glass sealer and close the paint holes, per the link shared. Would packing tape suffice?


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

I did fine on sealing the first and only time, the thing is I have difficulty standing long periods of time and since takes all day, can't physically do that anymore.


Should not need to take all day. Guessing you need to do smaller batches. When the rainy colder days come along we are sitting on the couch cutting up apples while catching up on TV. Next day cook them down, and can one batch. Does need a couple of good sized pots. Found one at a swap meet and the other at the local scrap yard. Both are stainless steel with lids.


Trouble is knowing what a small batch is. Razz Yes, I cooked and canned same day.

I used an enamel/porcelain stock pot and a smaller stainless stock pot. I am still kicking myself for leaving the huge stock pot that Opa used for curing olives, could have bathed an infant in it so big.

By the way, I don't have a television set up, don't watch it. I could only get three channels and one was murder mysteries, felt it was affecting me too much. Plus, if I was one minute late, I have the need to wait another hour which also wasn't healthy (hypoglycemic).


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Before my house was stolen, I used thermal mass in the form of empty bleach and vinegar jugs filled with water, made a huge difference. I had not considered a collector, neat. Though not sure how the apartment management like me doing that, plus only two small south facing windows, both bedrooms (well one s my workroom).


You can still improve on those windows for pulling in heat. Some cardboard to duct the coldest air from the floor up to the window should make a difference. Some holes covered with plastic to still let in the light.


I am not following how this all works, sorry.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Well, been sounding like it has been a light rain, hopefully some more after de-stink myself and finally get horizontal, helps with my trouble falling asleep (my mind thinks too much).


Try a white noise generator, or perhaps radio turned onto the most boring radio station at low volume to help get to sleep??


I think too much, very quiet here, especially compared to the house stolen. Oddly, last night fell right to sleep, no thinking at all. Be interesting to see what happens tonight.
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2022 4:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Gas in the oil Reply with quote

Adriel Rowley wrote:

I do not remember warm air coming when the engine was first turned on.

The times with Dad there was no stop and go traffic, we didn't live in Los Angeles and only once took me to work (I barely remember, I was about five, and didn't know until after he passed and found pictures of his workplace).


The exhaust is going to be cold at first, so no heat right off. Still within about 1 mile, the defrost on our 1960 panel camper really starts to get good and hot that it starts to cook moisture or even ice off the glass.

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Both front and back of heater channels are rusted, possibly because of water getting into the pillars?


Exactly. Rust never sleeps....

Adriel Rowley wrote:

I am so glad we didn't get the windshield in, going to order the glass sealer and close the paint holes, per the link shared. Would packing tape suffice?


Personally have just welded the drain holes up, but if you use just enough packing tape it should work. Sealant is the major water proofing factor there.

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Trouble is knowing what a small batch is. Razz Yes, I cooked and canned same day.

I used an enamel/porcelain stock pot and a smaller stainless stock pot. I am still kicking myself for leaving the huge stock pot that Opa used for curing olives, could have bathed an infant in it so big.

By the way, I don't have a television set up, don't watch it. I could only get three channels and one was murder mysteries, felt it was affecting me too much. Plus, if I was one minute late, I have the need to wait another hour which also wasn't healthy (hypoglycemic).


Practice = experience.

Ouch, that sounds like it was a nice sized stock pot!

Got Youtube? Lots of audiobooks there. All pausable, so it can be stopped. Those have been great for us when both of us are working away in the kitchen.

Adriel Rowley wrote:

I am not following how this all works, sorry.


Coldest air is closest to the floor. Close in the window area and on downward to nearest to the floor with a duct made of wood or cardboard. Blacken the inside the ducting where the sun light will hit it. Heated air rises because it takes up more room, thus hot air balloons rise due to same reason. Have the heated air come out of the duct near the ceiling. Same principle that make a chimney move hot air up and out due to draft affect.

Put a plastic valve in the bottom and when the sun is not shining the cooler air from the window is blocked off from pouring out on the floor.

There are also plans for small solar collectors outside for use thru a window. No cutting, nailing, screwing to the building.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=window+passive+solar+heat+collector&t=ffab&ia=web
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2022 6:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Gas in the oil Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Adriel Rowley wrote:

I do not remember warm air coming when the engine was first turned on.

The times with Dad there was no stop and go traffic, we didn't live in Los Angeles and only once took me to work (I barely remember, I was about five, and didn't know until after he passed and found pictures of his workplace).


The exhaust is going to be cold at first, so no heat right off. Still within about 1 mile, the defrost on our 1960 panel camper really starts to get good and hot that it starts to cook moisture or even ice off the glass.


That certainly does not describe Ruby, take about 10 to 15 miles before warm. By the time the cabin was slightly warmer, we be home. I would have loved to have had that kind of heat growing up.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Both front and back of heater channels are rusted, possibly because of water getting into the pillars?


Exactly. Rust never sleeps....


Sadly I lost my donor metal stash when the house was stolen. I looked at buying a 6x36 inch piece off the internet, almost $50. Shocked


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

I am so glad we didn't get the windshield in, going to order the glass sealer and close the paint holes, per the link shared. Would packing tape suffice?


Personally have just welded the drain holes up, but if you use just enough packing tape it should work. Sealant is the major water proofing factor there.


Right now it cost another day or two to plug the holes, so packing tape it is. Hopefully in my lifetime Ruby properly repainted and can plug them then.


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Trouble is knowing what a small batch is. Razz Yes, I cooked and canned same day.

I used an enamel/porcelain stock pot and a smaller stainless stock pot. I am still kicking myself for leaving the huge stock pot that Opa used for curing olives, could have bathed an infant in it so big.

By the way, I don't have a television set up, don't watch it. I could only get three channels and one was murder mysteries, felt it was affecting me too much. Plus, if I was one minute late, I have the need to wait another hour which also wasn't healthy (hypoglycemic).


Practice = experience.

Ouch, that sounds like it was a nice sized stock pot!

Got Youtube? Lots of audiobooks there. All pausable, so it can be stopped. Those have been great for us when both of us are working away in the kitchen.


I am old fashioned and prefer reading books, plus got a couple shelves I am trying to read through (Dad's books, once read then going out of my collection, 2,000 plus books is a bit much to have for the lifestyle I am trying to now live).

What I do when sewing, upholstering, working in the kitchen, etcetera is listen to YouTube videos, for example, "Sartorial Talks," or cassette tape summons and lectures (though running out, been going though Oma and Dad's collections).


Eric&Barb wrote:

Adriel Rowley wrote:

I am not following how this all works, sorry.


Coldest air is closest to the floor. Close in the window area and on downward to nearest to the floor with a duct made of wood or cardboard. Blacken the inside the ducting where the sun light will hit it. Heated air rises because it takes up more room, thus hot air balloons rise due to same reason. Have the heated air come out of the duct near the ceiling. Same principle that make a chimney move hot air up and out due to draft affect.

Put a plastic valve in the bottom and when the sun is not shining the cooler air from the window is blocked off from pouring out on the floor.

There are also plans for small solar collectors outside for use thru a window. No cutting, nailing, screwing to the building.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=window+passive+solar+heat+collector&t=ffab&ia=web


As I said before, I have a Masters of Science in the Built Environment with a Concentration in Climate Responsive and Sustainable Architecture. We studied thermodynamics, HVAC design, passive cooling and heating, thermal storage, just to name a few. This is why I am intrigued by this thermal solar collector.

I don't see me having the funds for the clear plastic (I can't block the light coming from either window) until maybe February, by then we are starting to have warm weather. Though, if here next winter or finances change, defiantly going to try this and check the temperatures (I have a multimeter with temperature and a heat gun).
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2022 6:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Gas in the oil Reply with quote

Prefer books also, but when busy the audio books do well.

Plastic does not need to be $$$. Could even at first just be 6mm clear, or a free pane of glass.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2022 7:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Gas in the oil Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Prefer books also, but when busy the audio books do well.

Plastic does not need to be $$$. Could even at first just be 6mm clear, or a free pane of glass.


And there goes the conversation. Laughing

Hmmm, not sure where to get free glass, got some frames needing glass.

Will look in Home Depot when get an opportunity to get there. Just feels like can't spend a penny finances are so tight. At least have anything, didn't for almost four years.

Be nice to see you back on the build thread, probably where this should have been though didn't know how to move it. Got a question(s) over there that not been answered, too.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2022 7:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Gas in the oil Reply with quote

Free glass on Craigslist, Marketplace, etc.. Heck we have a local specialty door manufacturing shop that gives out the glass rejects with slight defects, or canceled orders , all are tempered glass.

Always feel free to PM a link to a thread you want us to look into.

You can contact Everett about moving or other fixes for threads since he owns Thesamba.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2022 4:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Gas in the oil Reply with quote


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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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