Looking for advice on some aspects of engine build.

[Chewpapa]

I am in the process of collecting parts to build a 1915 for a 69 Baja. I understand that probably ALL of my questions have been answered at one point in time and I can search and find them. That may be true but I would much rather talk with people and maybe make a few new friends along the way. I have machined and assembled 100s of engines but never assembled an air cooled, I very rarely deal with carbs, distributors, exhaust systems, external oil systems and such.

I understand that VW AC is a pretty unique engine that has its quirks and sometimes needs special attention. I should have most of my parts by Tuesday this week and will start the hours of work ahead. I am posting this in anticipation of having many questions regarding the build of this engine. Below is a list of the parts I have purchased, I am sure that all will not be used and I will opt for different parts as I go through this. My name is Troy and it's good to meet you.

Autolinea aluminum case for 94s and full flowed
94mm pistons and barrels AA
500 series AA heads 40x35.5
69mm CW crank
13 lb 8 dowel flywheel
Forged rods
Engle 110 cam and lifters
New cam and crank gears
New 8mm chromoly studs
All new case hardware and chromoly gland nut
Deep sump
Cast iron oil pump cover
30mm pump
Remote filter and oil cooler( roof top mount)
Scat 1.25 rockers and Shafts
New crank and gen pulleys with sand seal
New DP head tin and factory 1500 tin
Kuhltek? 009 elec dist
Haven't bought carbs yet but doing duals. Prob 44s
New high flow heater boxes
New clutch cover and disc
Rebuilt Wright Gearbox super diff 4.37

I'm sure there is more but can't recall every little piece right now.
This Baja is going to be a street driver. It will NEVER be mudded, it may see sand rarely if at all and maybe a stroll on flat trails once or twice in its life.
Again I'm sure I will have questions about what works,what doesn't and just better routes to take with this engine. Thanks

[67rustavenger]

Welcome to the samba.

You have described the skills to build an engine, likely V8's, with an EFI ECU. Right?

Why not go that route and forget the carbs, distributor and all the BS that we have been dealing with here for years.
You can get a fresh start and not being bogged down with, the stuff we have had pounded into our collective heads for many, many, years.

I have just spent the last few days. Exploring the virtues of EFI.
This will be the focus on my next build.

Then I'll boost that nasty bitch!
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[oprn]

I think the 30mm oil pump is going to cause more issues than it will fix. 26mm is all you need if the engine is built with all the correct clearances and of course, stock oil pressure relief springs.

I see "heater boxes", "street driven" and Oregon... I think you would benefit greatly with flaps and thermostat added to your parts list.
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[Chewpapa]

EFI would be one way to go. But for this project is has to be duals.

I guess I should have stated that some of these parts we picked up for a big discount when a local VW parts supplier closed their doors. If we needed it we bought it, like the 30mm pump was what they had left. And at that point I had no idea diff size oil pumps existed.
This will be one of the areas I will sure consumes some time.[/quote]

[Witnin01340]

If it was my build for a bus i would go with a cam in size of a E100,scat C25 etc and yes these engines does have things about them that only somone that has many years of experience in the type1 vw knows but at all means do it yourself just make sure all the clearances are in spec.

As far as dual carbs there easy to tune if ya know about tuning them,not so easy on a centermount.

There is many engine build threads on here but take the advice from the oldtimers on here that has many yrs in the type1 vw because they know..

[Dale M.]

Ditch the 30mm oil pump.... 26mm will be more then enough...

As for carbs probably anything under 2000cc would do well with 40 IDF's... And it has to be carbs?..... EFI and crank fire ignition is going to be a lot better....
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[Witnin01340]

sorry was reading a post on a bus build and was thinking this was the post ,that is what happens when one has been here for six decades,lol.

Yes a 30mm pump is to big,a 26mm is plenty

[Witnin01340]

Sorry,was reading a bus build post and was thinking this was the post.

[67rustavenger]

[slalombuggy]

I would stick with 40mm carbs for your engine combo.

I would also ditch the roof mounted oil cooler and just stick with a stock doghouse cooler.

Run 10W30 with your 30mm pump and you should be ok

[Chewpapa]

[Brian_e]

The larger 30mm pump will usually make to much oil pressure. If the oil pressure is much over 40psi, it will bypass the oil cooler, and make the engine run hot. There are ways around it, but a standard 26mm pump usually works great.

Your off the shelf aa500 40x35's will need some work in the valve bowls, and the ports if you want them to do anything more then a bone stock 35x32 head. Right now they flow about the same as a stock valve head, but they choke bad at .300" lift. Intake and exhaust will choke.

You should also go smaller on the cam. I would do a w100, or a cb2232.

How high are you hoping to rev this thing?

With big tires, displacement and low end torque are your friend. Your aluminum case is probably already clearanced for a big crank. Why not use a bigger crank?

Brian
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[catbox]

[Chewpapa]

I plan on going through the heads and doing the port and manifold work, bowls, guides, springs and probably a valve grind.

This will never go above 6k, the rotating assembly will be balanced but not intended for rpms.

If we stroke it now we won't have a reason to go through it again in a couple years.

What's your reasoning for a 100 over a 110?

[Chewpapa]

My point was that being the owner is 55 and takes car of his stuff he isn't going to run the piss out of this thing. I doubt very seriously if this car gets past 5500 EVER.

[vwracerdave]

40 IDF's with 32mm venturies. 44's are too big with those heads and cam.
26mm oil pump and run 10W-30 oil
There is no need for any auxilary oil cooler. The factory doghouse will be plenty.
There is also no need for straight cut cam gears.
There is no need for a sand seal with a new case.
I'd keep the CR 8.4-8.6 and run 89 octane mid grade gas.
1 1/2" exhaust.
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[Brian_e]

[c77owen]

Having built a lot of these engines myself, I would agree with Dave. Dual HPMX or IDF 40s is plenty, 26mm pump is plenty. You don't NEED straight cuts, but if you want the noise and you have them, go for it. The 110 cam will work just fine for what you are doing. I agree that working those heads over would improve power quite a bit, but so would more cam, stroker crank, more carb.....you see where this can go. As it is, it should run fine for what you are doing with it.

[Chewpapa]

There will be NO straight cuts in this engine. I don't know who snuck that into the conversation but I'm NOT using straight cut gears. They sound horrible.
I disassembled the heads today and someone went bowl cutter crazy. I'm definitely going to have to remove the intake guides to blend them. It looks like Bob's last set of heads before he punched out Friday at 5.....After getting a look at the material I have to work with in these heads, it looks like there's going to be a fine line on getting the ports optimal.

I'm definitely not opposed to running 40s and a 26mm pump. The 100 vs 110 I'm still considering.

[67rustavenger]