Wire gauge from isolator to coach wiring cabinet in EVC

[sgirard]

Hi All:

I searched but couldn't find the answer. I have a Victron 18amp DC-DC charger I was thinking about installing up near the front of the house, maybe below the fuse block, primarily for convenience of access.

Victron specs ~6AWG for that run (10mm2). Looking at the wire coming off the isolator it looks more like 8AWG. Just curious if anyone knows the size of that conductor for sure before I move on to plan b.

Thanks,
-sean
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95 EVC
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Previous:
64/71/72/82
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Intro

[orbeamike]

Yes indeed, 8awg come with stock EVC. For the length of the van I think it's safe to keep the OEM wiring for your 18A DC/DC charger. I installed an Orion 30A DC/DC charger and I am keeping most of the stock wiring (8awg is good for around 15ft @ 30A), there are 2 40A fusable links (one near the OEM house battery, one by the isolator) that protect the wires from over current. You should be OK.

[mikemtnbike]

Nice post, orbeamike. Electrickery is tricky and your post is what I thought, but didn't trust myself.

At some point, I'm going to upgrade my whole electrical system including removing the antique converter for a modern option. Like, some point soon. This helps.
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[orbeamike]

I just recently did the upgrade myself, in place of the old Magnatek converter I installed a 5A AC/DC Lithium charger for shore charging and a 30A DC/DC charger when I am on the road. A new 100A LiFePO4 battery with bluetooth replaced the old lead acid house battery, so far it has worked out well. With my electrical needs I can go at least 3 days without turning on the engine and no solar.

[Blaque Jacques]

nice work, considering something close to that myself. is that the Victron 30 A dc/dc charger where the old magnatek went? I thought of mounting that somewhere accessible. any issues with having it tucked away?

jacques
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86 2wd Westy GW2200. 97, 99 02 EVC. Lots and lots of bikes

[sgirard]

I wound up putting mine up front last weekend. I will probably make a few minor modifications but basically pretty happy with the setup so far. Mainly I want to move or replace the ANL fuse I had laying around because I think it might obstruct airflow and also reroute the wires a little bit. It was getting late by the time I finished up. I moved the original wire that ran from the isolator to the back of the house over to the original 40 amp circuit breaker as a convenient tie in point but also put a 30 amp fuse just in front of it because it looks questionable . Also I want to find a more a more interesting toggle for the dash or at least figure out how to light up the one I bought.

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95 EVC
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Previous:
64/71/72/82
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Intro

[qlobata]

Same topic, but:
- 2001 EVC
- upgrading auxiliary (=coach, house, accessory, leisure) battery to a 50Ah LiFePO4 with Renogy RBC30D1S charger/isolator (30amp), including to accommodate a future solar plugin.

I also am a newbie DIYer and after reading through TheSamba and other Eurovan forums/links, and GoWesty and Renogy libraries, I am left with a few details to confirm - please advise:

0. My understanding is to remove existing battery isolator, connect the two corresponding 8awg (+) wires together (one from start battery+ via fusible link [yellow 10awg wire] and circuit breaker [original, ?"18U400, T11", which I understand is 40amp], and the other 8awg + goes 17 feet back to the aux battery box circuit breaker [also I take it original, 40amp]. The wire on top/center of the existing isolator is the IGN+ wire from alternator, and is to splice with long 18awg wire that will connect to the new Renogy, which then serves the function of the existing battery isolator.
>photo of existing engine comp't showing battery isolator and other items mentioned...

>photo of existing circuit breaker between the battery+ yellow fusible link wire and the isolator...

In the back of the van is the existing auxiliary battery box, the incoming 8awg (+) wire goes through a circuit breaker barely visible on R side of box (black rubber housing under edge of box).. >photo:

Some assumptions to verify (and especially item 3 below) - please advise:

1. I intend to seal the drain and vent holes in the aux battery box since the new battery is sealed (no potential for nasty gases to vent, no liquid to drain). Sealing holes also prevents the abundant dust coming in, insulates the Li battery from cold ambient temperatures, and prevents rodent entry. I could later add in an additional 50Ah Li battery if the capacity is needed. Is that all good?

2. The Renogy charger I plan to mount on the outside of the battery compartment, under the front end of the removable sleep platform with the spec 5 cm clearance for ventilation (I understand it can get up to 149 degrees Fahrenheit =65degC, or is that 185degF=80degC). Put some reflective silver duct tape (not 'duck tape') under the footprint of the mounting to reduce heating of the battery compartment wall made of plastic? maybe fiberglass.

3. How do I run the IGN+ 18awg ignition signal wire from the engine compartment (splice to alternator IGN+ wire from the existing isolator) the ~17 feet back to connect to the Renogy charger ? I couldn't find any existing link, video, etc. so I'm left to exploratory detaching the interior panels from the back closet up along the roof line, down the driver door frame to the back of the engine compartment ... ? Advice appreciated.

4. Use the existing (couldn't find routing nor method info on installing a new) long ~17' 8awg wire from start battery+ (via circuit breakers): the aux battery end needs a new ring terminal connector and I will splice in the extra length I will need to get across to the Renogy charger. I assume that I can/should use the existing circuit breaker (40amp?) at the aux battery box, rather than wiring in a 50amp fuse going into the charger -- or should I use both? The Renogy manual generically suggests a 45amp fuse (I couldn't find one, so now have the 50amp fuse, that I may not need now that I know about the existing circuit breakers.) At the engine compartment end, I will splice the two 8awg + wires that come off the existing isolator.

Your suggestions much appreciated!

.

[Blaque Jacques]

Hi, I just installed the same renogy DC-DC charger and a lithium battery and LiFePo compatible ac-dc charger (a victran). to you points:

1. yes, you can seal the battery compartment as a lithium batter is sealed.
2. I don't love putting the charger on the outside of the (definitely) plastic compartment. I went into the electric area on the driver side rear of the van and removed the antique magnatek charger and replace it with both the new Victran battery charger and the renogy 30a DC-DC charger and had plenty of room. attached right into the floor like the original Magnatek.
3. you don't really need to attach ignition wire, its optional and the charger works just fine w/o it.
4. if you mount the renogy dcdc charger on the drivers side you don't need to run the line to the batter side, just use the existing wiring. you can remove the existing 40a fuse at the battery and install the one that comes with the renogy (45a?). In the engine compartment, no need to splice the wires together, especially as they are different gauges. just take the end from the isolating solenoid that goes back to the aux. battery and attach it directly to the positive terminal on the starting battery.

if you install a lithium battery, and you every charge with shore power you will want to replace the magnatek charger with something lithium compatible.

hope that helps!
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86 2wd Westy GW2200. 97, 99 02 EVC. Lots and lots of bikes

[qlobata]

Thank you for your comments 'Blaque Jacques' --

2. I haven't used a shore power plug in, but thanks for cueing me to look at that old AC-DC converter/inverter, and possibly installing the new Renogy RBC30D1S (30amp charge regulator/isolator) in that driver-side electrical area.

3. This is a difference in our vehicles, as I understand it: my 2001 Eurovan Camper (Winnebago buildin) has a 'smart alternator' that puts out variable voltage, with a signal IGN+ wire to the battery isolator solenoid that controls auxiliary battery charging only under the right conditions -- when the alternator is generating, and when the voltage is within suitable range (if I understand that correctly). In the first photo you can see that IGN+ signal wire from the 'smart alternator' (yellow 10awg wire on the left) connected to the center of the battery isolator (grey metal cylinder at upper left in the photo). I'm proposing to remove that existing battery isolator, since that function will be performed by the new Renogy RBC30D1S (30amp charge regulator/battery isolator).

4. I'll have to explore that wire routing, removing interior panels and trace the aux battery + wire back and see if your description is correct for my vehicle -- >btw I'm unable to find information on wire routing, my background reading sources imply incorrectly that this information is on a wiring diagram. I haven't seen a Repair Manual, but past experience is that only includes a wiring diagram, not a wire routing diagram. Please advise?<
... no fuses came with the Renogy RBC30D1S, I was not able to source the Renogy-recommended 45amp fuse, but found 50 amp fuses at local RV/truck parts suppliers.
... I'm proposing to splice the two black 8awg battery+ wires (one from the start battery+ via circuit breaker&fusible link, and the other to the aux battery+) shown in the first photo currently attached either side of the battery isolator solenoid (grey metal cylinder at upper left of photo). That yellow 10awg wire attached at center of the isolator is the IGN+ signal from the 'smart alternator'. The ends of those two black 8awg battery+ wires are a bit corroded, so I thought to remove that and the extra slack with a splice (soldered with heat shrink insulation).
... I would not bypass the existing circuit breaker (40amp?) and fusible link (yellow 10awg wire on right between start battery+ and that circuit breaker, shown in the first two photos). Those are safety features there for a reason, I suppose in case of a short in the 15-20 feet of 8awg (+) charged wire going back to the aux battery, such as in case of accident, rodents, wear-n-tear. I read somewhere somebody thought there could also be residual charge even in that chunk of 8awg + wire back to the fuse/circuit breaker at the aux battery, let alone connected directly to the start battery. ok, at the limit of my electrical understanding.. I'd rather be safe.

Thanks for bringing up the old plug in shore power AC-DC converter/inverter, I'll look into replacing that, whether or not the new Renogy charge regulator/isolator already takes care of any compatibility issues with switching from lead-acid to Li-Fe auxiliary battery.

thank you - do comment ...
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2001 Eurovan Camper (Winnebago buildin, VIN# WV2EB47091H------).
avatar photo: Titus Canyon, Death Valley National Park, USA

[qlobata]

... continued re:
- 2001 Eurovan Camper (Winnebago).
- installing 50Ah Li-Fe aux battery with Renogy RBC30D1S (30amp charge regulator/battery isolator).
- to accommodate potential solar plugin or add second same battery.

I just got this from GoWesty:
> photo: wiring diagram for Renogy charge controller + solar in 2000-2003 EVC <

Correction on my last post: my shore line AC-DC device is not an inverter, but only a converter (110v AC up to 15amp input, conversion capacity to DC 12v, 20 amp) and also powers the AC circuit in the Winnebago part of the van (refrigerator on AC power mode, plug outlets, lights).
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2001 Eurovan Camper (Winnebago buildin, VIN# WV2EB47091H------).
avatar photo: Titus Canyon, Death Valley National Park, USA