Meet the Bergmann Bomb!

[67rustavenger]

And.
Don't rattle the gland nut on to seat the flywheel to the crank.

I, 25 years ago or so, asked Oval's VW in Sea_Tac to set my end play. First build.
The mechanic (hack) rattled the gland nut into my crank and fucked up the threads. No lube!
I left the shop with a new gland nut and an fucked up crank. It took a bit of work, to dig the galled material out of the crank threads.

Don't be the Oval's hack mechanic!
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Clatter]

[VWporscheGT3]

[Clatter]

We'll start with the flywheel..

Grabbed my buddy bar and the big break-over and started cranking.
Once i had some lever on the flywheel came home no sweat.
Threw up a few chips on the way in:

Actually pretty stoked about the fit of the flywheel to crank.
Their 8-doweling job seems better than i was expecting.
Going to run this setup like it is rather than take the dowels over to 11/32.
Thinking that enough of you China enthusiasts have kept flywheels attached that they have this dialed in?
Made a puller for wedgemate because this motor supposedly had one..!

Some burrs cleaned up easy with a short piece of file.

Found an old Scat gland nut in my stash from 1995 (right).
The shorter threads on it had me worried,
But when you look at it, the bigger shank/shoulder is stronger.
The other nut with more threads and big head is probably weaker.
Many of the threads aren't used and makes it thin.
I dunno, food for thought with aftermarket gland nuts..

Went ahead and sanded down that Silverline center main.
1400 wasn't getting me anywhere and i had a couple thou to take off,
So it got humped hard with a few 400 sessions.
After that up thru the grits to 2000 then finally coarse and fine steel wool.
Seen steel wool used before, and it'll hopefully pull the grit from the soft bearing material.
Bore gauge confirmed by Plastigauge:

I'll run it a smidge tight since it probably lost crush already from my sanding.

Rod journals are at or a bit below spec.

Leaves a loose-ass .0035 or so at the rod bearings.
These are Metal Leve.
Got some KS and Mahle to try but I'm not betting they'll tighten things up.

Sucks when the mains and rods are both already over spec for new parts.
Already well on their way to worn out..
If this wasn't a beatass junker to be whipped relentlessly,
I'd be trying to figure out a way to tighten up all those sloppy bearing clearances.
Operative word "try".. What can you do when bearings are so wrong?

Got my lower end ready for spin balance tomorrow.
We'll see if this stuff is junk or not soon.

_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[67rustavenger]

Be prepared for a shock, when you see how much material is ground off that crank to get it balanced.

Mine has been done twice.
Once by, (so called) Steve's Precision Machine.
The second time by DPR, Jose's team really ground a huge amount of material from my AA crank.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[esde]

Few thoughts:
My experience is that silver line rod bearings tend to run tight. Perhaps thats worth a shot
Using the gland nut to draw the flywheel on, one time I did that and a thread peeled loose on the gland nut. But, it didn't come all the way off until reassembly, where it locked up the gland nut halfway in and raised all sorts of hell. So, oil the threads and inspect them after every disassembly.
Nice work on the bearing.
SD
_________________
modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[DeathRay64]

I would pre balance all of the clutch bolts so I don't have to worry about which holes they belong to. Is that crazy?
_________________
Making VW's and America great again.

[Clatter]

[Clatter]

[oprn]

This is how much had to be groung off my AA crank!

_________________
We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[madmike]

Loose Bearings= Fast Motor
_________________
'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works"

[Emeraldlion]

I just want to say thank you Clatter for taking time to document all of this with photos. Between this and evanfruchts build thread he is currently spcenting their is a lot of good info. Maybe we could get an admin to make sure these are in the engine build thread? I am constantly going back and reading jim martins thread but it stopped so short I always feel sad at the end.
_________________
1967 Sunroof Beetle: tourist pass car
1961 SWR Kombi

[oprn]

[VWporscheGT3]

[Clatter]

[Clatter]

Crank will hopefully be done tomorrow when i go by there.
Also wanted my machinist's opinion on the polish it had.
Sure isn't shiny like other cranks I've seen.

Gave me a chance to start checking P&L..

Having a bore gauge that reads tenths will ruin you.
AA China cylinders aren't the greatest.
Best to just not know, right?

Start by zeroing on the smallest measurement i got anywhere on all four.

One was kind of straight,
One was tapered,
The other was barrel-shaped.
Variation of .0012 or so was found in a couple of places.

Pistons have special spots where coating is masked off for measurement purposes.

'Quick-n-dirty' with feeler blades gives only .002 due to coating.

Proper measuring shows about .0035.

Remember that the bore gauge was zeroed on the smallest part of the smallest cylinder.
That means we'll have .0047 or so on some parts of other cylinders...

Because China AA cylinders have finishes of similar quality to their bores,
We plan on doing some better finishing.
Unlike the bores being wrong, this is something we can improve.
A 240/600 plateau finish is supposed to be good with our Hastings rings.

But.. Um.. This is bound to open up an already too-big cylinder fit...
Whatever.
I'll try to go easy and take off a minimum.
Worth it to improve ring seating.
Might even go a little harder with the 240 on the smaller cylinder just for good measure.
Put the biggest cylinder on #3 maybe?

Checking these pistons out next to the old Mahle 94Bs.
Crown is the same thickness but the wrist pin is closer to the oil ring.
Oil and 2nd ring are a little closer together too.
2nd to top ring distance the same.
Don't have a set of 94 Cs to compare,
But they're bound to be shorter than these.
They're kind of B-and-a-halfs?

Either way,
Really looking forward to running these.
A smaller stack of shims and less tin trimming...

When installing in an early compartment,
Even the slightest bit less engine width is most welcome.

A shame to put these nice pistons in those cheap cylinders!
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[VWporscheGT3]

[Clatter]

[74 Thing]

Any tips on using the bore gauge?

Looking forward to seeing you use that hone.

[Clatter]