Satellite Guy's build page

[thesatelliteguy]

Ive got 30" tires on it right now. And it looks like I have enough space between the tire and body that I can go with a bigger tire.
These pics are with the yellow tubes 3.5" off the ground.

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Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878

[JWHracing]

That's the problem with the subaru motor is they hang a lot lower than a vw motor. so you're giving up ground clearance for sure.
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65 Baja - Class 5 Unlimited Race Car

2021 STORR Pro Air Cooled Buggy Champion
2019 AZOP Unlimited Buggy Champion
2017 SADR 1300 Class Champion
2016 AZOP Limited Buggy Champion

Currently "retired" from racing

[JWHracing]

With that 002, I can definitely tell you, you will want a 32-33" tire to bring the rpms down. If it is stock you will be doing 3500 rpms at 60-65 mph. You will be much better with a bigger tire and that will help with the ground clearance.
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65 Baja - Class 5 Unlimited Race Car

2021 STORR Pro Air Cooled Buggy Champion
2019 AZOP Unlimited Buggy Champion
2017 SADR 1300 Class Champion
2016 AZOP Limited Buggy Champion

Currently "retired" from racing

[thesatelliteguy]

I just found out that a Subaru trans will hold the engine up higher then the 002. So that’s a plus. But that’s not going to happen for a while.
I’m thinking, set the compression at 3” before bottom out. Plan to put bigger tires on it. That’ll gain me an inch. Your right. It does run high in the rpm’s. 60 mph is 3000rpm. That’ll be another benefit of bigger tires.
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Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878

[dustymojave]

I agree that I would have those yellow bars up against the yoke tubes. But I understand the extra depth of the Subie pan.

Have you thought about using a low profile oil pan? Skidmark cut his Subie oil pan for more clearance under the car years ago. The info is probably not on this forum. You might find him on Shop Talk Forums/Offroad Forums. He talked about it/shared pics on SoCalBajas.com. If I removed depth from the oil pan, I would want to make the bottom of the pan wider like a road race pan for a V8.

Google it too.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[thesatelliteguy]

Thanks Dusty, Ive already cut the pan down tho. I think i took about 3" out of it. IDK. it was a long time ago. I was thinking "dry sump?". lol I dont think its worth the work tho.
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Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878

[ORANGECRUSHer]

Are you going with an emulsion or a res shock? Just curious.
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Brian H.
I may not know everything,but I will try to help if I can
OrangeCrushER Berrien Warrior 2.4L Quad4
LAZY MARY 1970 Baja 1835cc

[ORANGECRUSHer]

one more question:
What kind of angle can you get with the sway away 930 kit?

If I remember right I can get 21 with my empi race 930s *edit* prep T2 cvs, but I end up keeping it more around 17 because of the stretch going on with my limit straps and the racket they make if I don't.

I have 2X3's and I end up with around 10" of travel which is why I ask.

Thinking I might be able to find a little more travel like you did...
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Brian H.
I may not know everything,but I will try to help if I can
OrangeCrushER Berrien Warrior 2.4L Quad4
LAZY MARY 1970 Baja 1835cc

[thesatelliteguy]

Orange,
Ive got my eyes on the FOX 2.5 Performance series with Dual Speed Compression Adjusters on a remote reservoir, in 14" length. SKU: FOX-983-06-105-S Coming in at $884 each with springs and tuned from accutuneOffRoad.

For the 930's, i got GKN Stock German 930's from Kartek and then i ordered a polishing drum for the die grinder and race prepped them my self.

Ive read that 930's can do 25*. I honestly havent measured what mine are binding at.

Im getting 13.5" of useable travel. And my motion ratio is 1:.8
_________________
Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878

[ORANGECRUSHer]

Thanks for taking the time to answer.
Where are you measuring 13.5? The bottom of the wheel, the shock shaft, the frame?
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Brian H.
I may not know everything,but I will try to help if I can
OrangeCrushER Berrien Warrior 2.4L Quad4
LAZY MARY 1970 Baja 1835cc

[thesatelliteguy]

Im measuring at the centerline of the axle.
_________________
Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878

[dustymojave]

Back in the 1980s, I was using 28° for 930 CVs on the race cars I was prepping. I NEVER had a CV failure other than a torn boot.

One Raceco 1600 buggy I prepped came from Raceco with 16" of rear travel. That put the bottom of the 33" Yoko Super Digger IIIs well above the bottom of the skidplate. So I limited the up travel so the skidplate would not touch the ground. Hated the loss of travel, but when the belly of the car hit it was NOT a pleasant experience. Replaced a lot of rear skidplates before then too.

These days, the 5/16 Baja Bugs and 1600 buggies (which are both limited to 0x1 arms) are mostly getting around 16" of travel with microstub hubs. One 5/16 guy who has stuck with VW hubs says he gets about 12" travel.

So with 3x3s, I keep wondering why you guys keep limiting your suspension.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[thesatelliteguy]

Im limiting my suspension because I hear that bottoming out the belly is not a pleasant experience. And i would believe it. That seems like a lot of spine crushing.
_________________
Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878

[thesatelliteguy]

I got the shocks ordered (or should i say back ordered). Now ive turned my attention to brakes while i wait for the shocks.

I have Jamar 4 piston calipers for the rear with Wilwood MC4 mechanical parking brake calipers. And i have good old drum brakes on the front. I had to make the mounting bracket for the Wilwoods to attach to the rear trailing arm. Thats where the new CNC plasma table came in handy. Id like to put in brand new disk brakes in the front, but thats just not in the budget right now. I have the front/rear bias adjuster for the wilwood brake pedal so i think that will help with balancing the brakes.

I drew up a diagram for my brakes and included every hydraulic adapter and fitting so i could get a proper order together.
I hate plumbing.
It's such a fricken headache. But the diagram makes it a lot easier.

So, I got an order together. I decided to use -3AN for everything bc I couldn't find stainless steel braided brake hose with an inverted flare end. Also, I like how the wrench size for -3an are bigger than the wrench size for inverted flare.

Before I can get going, I would like to cut away the tunnel by where the gas pedal will go. There's not enough room down there for my foot so I think I'll cut out about half the tunnel and fill it back in. Then the brake and clutch line will enter the tunnel right behind where my foot will be. Or maybe in front of the gas pedal. I'm not really sure yet.

But anyway, this will be a fun challenge. I'm glad I got that giant hole cut out in the foot well for this.

_________________
Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878

[thesatelliteguy]

So I didn’t end up getting very far with the brakes. I got the rear line going back to the tee. And that was about it. Lost interest. But that was because the shocks got ordered and delivered a few days later. I was expecting at least eight weeks for a turnaround, but I guess they had some ready to ship out. So I got after it, setting up my rear cage and shock mounts.

_________________
Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878

[thesatelliteguy]

Got a little more done over the weekend and after work. I just need to fully weld everything and I can set the car back down on the ground without jackstands. It still needs limit straps and it’s been suggested to me that I put internal bump stops inside of the coilover. i’ve never seen or heard of that before but my good friend that builds off-road race cars for a living has recommended it.

_________________
Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878

[sailtexas186548]

Looking good!
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it's more fun loud and dirty

[Bad_chopper]

build is looking good,

if your friend is talking about the same bump stop i have, it is a rubber type stop that slides over the shock shaft. the shock itself has to be fully disassembled to do it though. i built a pretty solid skid plate for my car because of the oil pan. kind of boxed in the area of the oil pan that hung down a little bit.

as for 930cv angels for whomever was asking i have mine strapped at 28deg. been running this way for roughly a year now. They are GKN's with chromoly cages and have been polished/ race prepped.
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my build page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=536267

[dustymojave]

[thesatelliteguy]

I got everything welded up. The upper mounts moved on me a little bit so the through bolt didn't line up unless i took a BFH to it. So i got out the old die grinder and clearanced the inside. I've had that die grinder fopr years but have never used it bc I didn't have bits for it. Damn! That thing does work. It's my new favorite tool.

Anyway, cleared up that problem, installed the shocks with the springs on and sat it down on its wheels for the first time in probably a year and a half! It was a good feeling to see it like that, but the battle is nowhere near over. I noticed while it was sitting in my garage that the front seems to be up higher then the rear. I'm not going to jump into fixing that problem yet, not until i can drive it around and see it outside the garage. But it was kind of a let down. But, this is my first time building a car like this, i don't have anyone physically here to help me, and i don't do this for a living. So over all, I'm still pretty happy. Gotta stay up ya know?

I lost motivation and it sat for a while after that, about 2 months.

A couple days ago, just before thanksgiving, I came home and just jumped back into it. I built some limit strap upper mounts and cut out the lower mounts on the CNC plasma table. Got those installed and was happy. I realized that if I get the bump stops built and welded in, i would be done (for the most part) with the rear suspension. So after a Tequilla, i was all fired up to get it finished. I slammed those out yesterday and today.

I also got the rear brake lines finished up. I'm not sure i want to put brake fluid in it yet as i might have to take it apart again before final disassembly for paint.
I used 3/16" stainless brake line and -AN flares. I really like working with stainless steel. Its harder to bend and manipulate then steel lines, but it just looks better and seemed to be easier to straighten out. Any way, on to the pictures

.
_________________
Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878