EVC Interior LED light conversion

[MrPulldown]

I have finally converted all of the interior lights in my van to LED. Though not difficult it did take some motivation and instruction to convert. There are a few LED conversion threads, but I decided to pull them all together into one single thread. So let's get started.

The 2 easiest lights to convert are the sliding door "dome" light and the pop top light. These 2 lights have simple covers that you pop off to remove and expose the bulb. The dome light uses a bulb like this.

I purchased this bulb though it was a tad long. Not an issue as the mounting tabs can flex and easily accommodate the extra length. I think I got the 44mm, and a 42 would have been ideal.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/dome-ligh...cc_id=1407

Here is another bulb link in the first post of this thread.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=663177&highlight=led

Might as well buy 2 as you will need one for the front map light.

A note on LEDs if you are not too familiar with them. The color is defined by the "K" value. The higher the K the "bluer" the color of light. Though 4500 range is listed as natural, it is very white. I find that 3000k is easier to live with, and not feel like you are in a space ship.

The pop top light bulb is your standard single filament bayonet locking brake/tail light bulb light 1156. Do not get the dual filament bulb 1157. I had several lying around.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RTVNRMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

The easiest way to find a replacement (though not cheapest) is to take the existing bulb into your local auto parts store and find an LED replacement.

The florescent light over the sink light will require some easy rewiring to bypass the ballast. It is covered in detail here:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746039&highlight=led+ballast
I opted to use a LED florescent light tube replacement rather than fitting a LED strip light in the cavity.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0795MTW7R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The 4 rocker lights in the rear were a bit of a mystery, till I read this post.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764049

I had a stock of mini wedge bulbs. Any that fit will work. Like these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WGZP4PS/ref=o...b2cad884f9
or these:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/map-light...cc_id=1419

One thing to note is to test the light before you put the cover back on. Most LEDs only flow electricity one direction and is polarity sensitive unlike incandescent bulbs. If it doesn't turn on, flip the bulb around in the socket. You do not need the "canbus" bulbs. These have built in resistors, so they draw the same amount of power as a regular bulb, negating the energy savings of the LED.

The final light was the front map lights. The whole map light is removed from the headliner by simply pulling down. There are no screws just pry with your fingers. (sorry I did not take any pictures and just using ones I find on the web).

The map light uses 2 different type bulbs. The large light uses the long bulb used for the slider dome. The smaller light, the mini wedge.

Once the light assembly is removed disconnect the wire connector so it is easier to work with in your lap or on a bench top; depress side release tab and pull. The lens is held on by several side lock tabs. Remove to gain access the to the long bulb.

THe smaller wedge bulb is located under the round black 1/4 turn socket. Unscrew CCW and pull. My wedge bulbs were a little long and touched the lens when installed but seemed to be fine. Again, be sure to test the light before reinstalling. Mine didn't work on first try and I was able to rotate the bulb socket 180 and reinstall.

_________________
2002 EVC

[OB Bus]

Thanks - I been collecting LED upgrade posts to re-do our EV-C both here and from FB. This nicely ties things together in one place.
_________________
Larry in OB
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
69 Westfalia and 2002 Eurovan Camper.

[Endopotential]

Excellent summary!

I also replaced as many of my rear indicators as possible.

Rear brake lights use these 194 LED
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FQL7NCJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The center third brake light uses 1157 LED
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRE38EA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My van also came with those extra red indicator lenses on bottom corners of the rear bumper, but there were no lights inside. So I got these and put in the 1157 LED bulbs. Wired it up the standard running lights.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWUUVGV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The only thing I couldn't figure out was how to get LED turn signals. I tried the 1157 LEDs but got the quick blink error. I know there's some trick you can do with wiring and extra resistors (or the expensive kit from GoWesty which may or may not work), but I decided to leave these alone.

[MrPulldown]

[VanGeek]

Regarding flashers, I reviewed the following articles which I think are relevant:
https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/replacing-the-emergency-flasher-relay-in-a-eurovan.8571201/
https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/leds-bulbs-for-mkiv-jetta.296614/page-2

Based on these discussions, our Eurovans do not have a conventional 3-pin flasher. The flasher is built into the hazard switch and has an IC that monitors for burnt-out bulbs. Using lower current LED's causes this circuit to hyper-flash because the IC senses a bulb is burnt-out (since current is so low).

The recommended fix is to clip pin 7 of the IC uses in our flasher. Haven't tried this approach yet since it's not clear to me that having LED side markers and turn signals is worth hacking the hazard switch.....

[dazey77]

[dazey77]

[VanGeek]

You can swap an electronic flasher on the older models but not the newer ones.
https://gowesty.com/products/exterior-led-bulb-kit-eurovan
Either need to add resistors or as I posted above can attempt to modify the factory hazard switch and flasher assembly.

[Endopotential]

[MrPulldown]

I too hate resistors. Why install a device that's' only purpose is to convert electricity to waste heat.

I do alot of LED motorcycle turn signal conversions. On newer bikes the turn signal flasher relay is incorporated into a black box that houses several other controls. There are plug and play replacement black boxes that allow LED turn signals to flash. However, by studying the wiring diagram I have been able to isolate the turn signal flasher relay wires. Then you simply cut these and wire to a standalone no-load flasher.

If interested I have a gaggle of the basic 2 terminal LED type flasher relays if you want to play with. Hit me up. These relay will flash anything. Base supply 12v+ to one terminal, 12v+ from the turn signal to the other. Output signal is flashed. Common ground the turn signal.

I even have these variable rate flasher relays.

If you like tinkering...
_________________
2002 EVC

[Endopotential]

Hey I'm a fellow motorcycle nut as well!

I had the toughest time installing LED blinkers on my KTM Duke 790. Every other bike I've had, don't care what's plugged in. On the KTM, not only did I get the fast blinking, the overly complicated CPU would flash an error message on the dash. Darn technology.

I had wired in every resistor combo suggested on the forums. Ultimately bit the bullet and bought some overpriced OEM LED units to solve the issue.

Think I've maxed out my luck on tinkering on the van for now. Just did the transmission and differential fluid change this past weekend, and thankfully it's still running...

[VanGeek]

Recently purchased some amber front signal LED's to complement my clear lens covers. They hyperflashed. Found this post and thread about modifying the flasher to disconnect pin 7 on the flasher IC to eliminate the dead-bulb hyperflash sense. https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/leds-bulbs-for-mkiv-jetta.296614/page-2#post-4209424 It worked! No more hyperflash with LEDs. Here's how I did it.

Followed these instructions to access and remove the flasher: https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/replacing-the-emergency-flasher-relay-in-a-eurovan.8571201/
Disassembled the flasher. Identified pin 7. Severed connection with small flat-head screw driver.
Reassembled the flasher. Push the front end into housing but do not depress fully. Fully insert the rear-end, and then push the front-end all the way. This is necessary to ensure the internal contacts line-up properly and aren't bent.

Hazard switch with rear-end removed (red push switch on other end)




Close-up of circuit board and 8-pin IC. The red triangle button sits on top of this.




Circuit board with pin 7 of the IC disconnected.




Front and rear-ends of hazard switch showing proper connection and alignment. This is how they should align inside the housing. The best way to align sliding terminals without bending them is to partially insert front-end into housing, then fully insert rear-end into housing, and then press/slide front-end fully within the housing.

[bigfoot_ev]

I too did the leg 7 clip on the hazard IC. It works. Great guide @VanGeek.

I replaced all my lights, inside and out with LED. The hazard IC doesn't like the LED turn signals and hyper flashes. When you clip the leg 7 you still get a rapid flash, but it is not hyper. It's more like 'I really need to turn'. I quickly got used to it.

As @MrPulldown said, what is the point of adding a resistor to a LED light when you're just burning electricity to heat the resistor. For me, it was not worth converting to LED unless I could do it for the reduced DC current per lumen output, which LEDs can absolutely do.

BTW, I love my LED headlights, but you really need to replace the standard headlight lense first, ie you can't just replace the bulbs. Either replace the headlight assembly (which I did with round lights) or replace the lense to euro spec lenses with the sharp cutoff.

[VanGeek]

Great! Which round headlight projectors and which LED's did you use for your headlights?

[bigfoot_ev]

I ordered from a site in Germany a few years back. They have the 'angel eyes' look but the bulbs that were included did not fit with LED headlights. The color was just way off so I replaced the angel eyes with leds as well.

Here is where I got the assemblies: https://www.fk-shop.de/en/Lights/Headlights/Angel-eye-headlight-VW-bus-type-T4-97-02-black.html

As for the bulbs, I just pick something from Amazon that fits these assemblies, they are H7 bulbs. I have to admit, they sometimes don't last very long. I'm on my second set but so far working well.

The turn signal LEDs are something they call switchback. When the turn signal is on the white light is off and it blinks yellow. When the turn signal is off they act as white running lights.

[VanGeek]

Followed the advise of others here and swapped LEDs for the front cabin and map lights, and the small light in the side door footwell.

Also disassembled the two mid/rear cabin lights, removed the ballast and bulbs. Purchased some two way stiches, variable voltage controller, and 12v LED light strips.

Rather than mount the strips inside the enclosures, I designed a 3d-printed shelf that clips into the fixture and can be held in place with a few drops of gorilla glue. The strips are now positioned flat, facing outward, and closer to the lens so all the light is reflected out and strips can utilize full length of the fixture. These strips are very bright but can be dialed down with the voltage controller. I intend to use the two switch positions for always-on and on-when-door-is-open. To keep them off all the time, the voltage controller can be turned all the way off. Here are some photos of my progress. Almost finished. Just need to mount the switches and make a cutout in the cover to accommodate the voltage controller knob. May also print trim piece to hide where wires connect to COB strips.

Empty fixture with ballast and bulbs removed. Trimmed the "ears" that hold the bulbs in place. Prototype of the shelf that will go into the fixture.

Fixture with shelf installed and COB strips, voltage controller, and wiring.

COB LED strips fixed to final (white) shelf attached to fixture. Underside of shelf shown above. Includes "wiring tunnel" to stuff excess wires.

Test power-on of COBs. Photo suggests they aren't super bright at maximum, but they are. I cannot look directly at them.

Test power-on with lens which diffuses the light better. Color is soft-white. At max power each strip is ~2 watts and slightly warm to touch.

LED's dimmed via voltage controller. They will variable dim until off.

[VanGeek]

(nearly) finished up the install.
Tucked the wiring inside the channels I made below the 3d-printed LED strip shelves.
Made cutouts in the plastic cover to accommodate the switch and dimmer.
Use insulated right-angle female spade connectors on the switch which stuck-up a little higher than the electronics box-top, so I made an extension that snaps over the top. I think it works better than the original.

A few pics below of the wiring and new top I designed.
They are now installed and working, except I do not have a switched ground wire yet established to the mounting locations so they only work in one switch position (on or off) like the originals did. These, however, are dimmable.
Have other spring repair/enhancement priorities and I'll tap/run the switched ground later.
I'll load the stl files for the 3d parts to thingiverse if anyone wants to use them.

[vineetp]

Hi folks, just bought a 2001 EV Weekender and working on an LED conversion for the internal lights. This thread has been very helpful, but I'm getting thrown for a bit of a loop by the courtesy light fixture in the stepwell. My van was missing the bulb and bulb holder, and I'm wondering if anyone knows of a direct twist base replacement LED for this fixture. Photo below if helpful. Thanks in advance!

[Zeitgeist 13]