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Clatter Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003 Posts: 7537 Location: Santa Cruz
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2022 1:09 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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^^^A thing of beauty right there…^^^
_________________ Bus Motor Build
What’s That Noise?!? |
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chrisflstf Samba Member
Joined: February 10, 2004 Posts: 3438 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2022 11:08 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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So the waisted shank is done to improve elasticity of the stud? The other day I measured my 8mm studs, only to learn they arent 8mm on the shank. Now i know why |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5408 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2022 11:22 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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The waisted shank improves fatigue strength. Basically, you narrow the shank until it is equal to or below the equivalent stress area of the bolt. For an M10x1.5 thread, that area is 58mm^2, which is equivalent to a maximum diameter of 8.6mm.
In the case of your 8mm stud, if 1.25mm pitch, the stress area is 36.6mm^2. That works out to a maximum diameter of 6.8mm for a waisted shank stud.
You can to a degree control how much a fastener elongates for a given load. Alternatively, you can also maintain a clamp load within a specific range with varying elongations. There are a lot of tricks that can be played with fasteners.
If they are just shy of 8mm, it is only because they need a slightly smaller diameter to roll the threads on the ends. The material displaces and pushes up. If you start right at 8mm, there is nowhere for the material to go when rolled. These are not waisted shank fasteners. _________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021 |
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chrisflstf Samba Member
Joined: February 10, 2004 Posts: 3438 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2022 12:06 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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8mm is .315 " My 8mm studs, Bugpack chrome moly measure .280" on the shank. Roughly same diameter as the minor root diameter. So these are simply regular rolled threads, not a waisted shank type
Interesting info, thx |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5408 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2022 10:53 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Shouldered valve guides made of continuous cast C86300 manganese bronze… which really should be called a brass due to the high zinc content. Should hold up really well with hard chromed stems. For raw stainless I may try and use C673, which is similar, not quite so hard, has a little more silicon, and machines easier. C86300 is surprisingly really though stuff. Currently these are just drilled about 10 thou under sized. Final reaming will be done in the head.
_________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5408 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2023 7:07 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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A tip for those who want to trim cylinder bases to reduce deck height, or make custom length cylinders;
Use a large bull nose live center to support the end. If the bottom edge of the cylinder is as cast and not machined, face the bottom of the cylinder to give a nice seat for the bull nose live center so that the cylinder runs true.
These are old used cylinders with are being shortened, and will be overboard to the next size.
I prefer the old iron. It definitely seems harder than the new import cylinders. It cuts quite differently. Hard to describe, but if you have ever cut both… you know what I mean.
_________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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RWK Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2009 Posts: 1348 Location: S.W. MI
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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 5:38 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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This is another way to do it, less cost then bull nose center, but you have to have one for each cyl. size.
Set up a dial indicator for length control, or DROs
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63 Type 113
63 Type 261- 428 071
62 Type 241-378 025 178 530 |
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chrisflstf Samba Member
Joined: February 10, 2004 Posts: 3438 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 9:30 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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I would have thought that the other end of the cylinder is easier to machine. No? |
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Brian_e Samba Member
Joined: July 28, 2009 Posts: 3284 Location: Rapid City, SD
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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 9:38 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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chrisflstf wrote: |
I would have thought that the other end of the cylinder is easier to machine. No? |
If you cut the head end much, it gets to short. Then you will need to cut the top fin of the head to make room for the shorter cylinder register.
Bottom of the cylinder has no effect on the head.
Brian _________________ www.type-emotorsports.com |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5408 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 9:57 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Brian is absolutely correct. Also, the head end is thicker, so I feel better about clamping that end with the chuck. _________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021 |
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madmike Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2005 Posts: 5292 Location: Atlanta,Michigan
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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 11:34 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Got my 92mm Cheers,Mike
_________________ 'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works" |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5408 Location: Holland, MI
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RickS Samba Member
Joined: May 05, 2005 Posts: 430 Location: Speonk, NY
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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 1:08 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Yeah, but mine is shiny!
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madmike Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2005 Posts: 5292 Location: Atlanta,Michigan
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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 1:18 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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No my local Machinist buddy did it , just the one size so far, In hate buggin him,he never charges me anything so I try to do one thing at a time Cheers,Mike _________________ 'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works" |
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mark tucker Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23937 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 4:20 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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eye took old forged V8 pistions, cut off the head then stuck them in my lathe to make the cylinder holders & head centering jigs. why throw away perfectly good aluminum that a chevy guy dystroyed...I also made steering wheel addapton for my bug out of a ford forged 351 oe piston. polished up and never corrodes. |
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nsracing Samba Member
Joined: November 16, 2003 Posts: 9461 Location: NOVA
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Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 4:31 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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I just use large flat piece of aluminum and center-drill it. The plate just pushes on the cylinder without loading the sides. No need to worry about different sizes. |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5408 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 5:24 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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If I didn’t have a large bull nose live center, I would probably make up some mandrels from scrap aluminum for the end, like the kind you guys have. _________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021 |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5408 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2023 7:44 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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RWK wrote: |
…Set up a dial indicator for length control, or DROs |
I have been using a dial indicator for saddle travel on the bed (length). I have DROs on my mill, which is the best thing since sliced bread. It would be nice to have it on the saddle and cross feed on the lathe, but I am not sure how I would set up the scale on the cross slide. Every place it would fit is a compromise in some way. I have to do more thinking about that. _________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5408 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2023 7:27 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Not really machine work, but useful nonetheless. Any time I run a used flywheel, I sleeve the sealing surface.
I use Timken Redi-Sleeves. They are a light press fit stainless sleeve that is 0.25mm thick, so you can use the stock seals. The sealing surface is cylindrical ground to RA10-20 micro-inches, or about 0.25-0.50 micrometers.
This is an online PDF from Timkens sealing products.
https://www.timken.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/National-Indust-Seals-Catalog_7707.pdf
A lot of people make the mistake of polishing sealing surfaces, which is the old school way of doing things, but the ideal surface roughness is actually more corse than you may expect.
There is a flange on one side that is used to push on the sleeve with the installation tool that comes with it. The installation tool looks like a cup. Just set the tool on the flange and tap on the sleeve. The flange peals away like a pop top lid, leaving the sleeve behind.
I use an anaerobic sleeve retainer, not to retain the sleeve, but to seal up any imperfections on the flywheel that may allow oil to weep out between the flywheel and sleeve.
_________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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chrisflstf Samba Member
Joined: February 10, 2004 Posts: 3438 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2023 9:35 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Are those the same for type iv and type 1? Part number? |
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