Door Lock/Latch Mechanism

[Paul Hatfield]

I have been going through all the locks on my 77 Transporter and getting all locks to work with one key. Have completed restoring the locks for the hatch and sliding door. The key tumblers were filthy and took considerable time to clean and lube. I used some teflon based spray to lube the key cylinders.
I am now doing the passenger door, and the tumbler was the same story, but all good now. On to the lock/latch mechanism.
You can see from the photos below that inside the door was very filthy and the door lock mechanism itself was just caked in old grease and dirt. I have cleaned and cleaned, and it now operates smoothly and I am in the process of cleaning up the entire inside of the door.
Question: What is the best lube for the actual locking/latching mechanism? I will head over to the hardware store today and was considering white moly lube, but thought I would ask what others have successfully used. Also, any special tips for applying the lube. Lots of hard to reach moving parts.
Thanks!

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[ToolBox]

White lithium spray grease...

https://www.crcindustries.com/products/white-lithium-grease-10-wt-oz-280.html

[Paul Hatfield]

Sounds like a good way to go. With a spray it has a better chance of getting into all the surface interfaces to provide the lubrication.
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[busdaddy]

I like chain lube for jobs like that, followed with some spray or brush on grease.
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[W1K1]

[Paul Hatfield]

Thanks everyone for the great advice. I was able to apply plenty of spray lubricant and everything went together and works fantastic.
Even the terribly filthy door itself cleaned up nicely. It was full of dirt and grime, but no rust issues requiring surgery. Whew! Photo after lock installation and door cleanup below.
Now to do the same to the drivers side.
Thanks again.

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[SGKent]

good work
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[dodger tom]

you’ll be rewarded every time you put the key in and the lock operates smoothly and quickly.

did you lube the window regulator while you were at it?

and, i assume you’re installing a new vapor barrier.

here’s colin’s thread about that. i think there’re others.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=445486
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1978 Champaign Edition 2 Westfalia
Would never find the time to keep up another classic air-cooled.

[Paul Hatfield]

Thanks Steve. I admit to being a bit of an originality freak and and certainly obsessed with cleanliness. My 356 is a concours garage queen by most standards.

As for the window operation and vapor barrier, the door is not closed up yet. I'll be cleaning the panel, lubing window and although I could patch up the original vapor barrier, I will just make a new one.

Full game plan over time is to replace all interior panels with vinyl, not ABS, but still working on making the bus reliable and road worthy.

Getting close though.....
Paul
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[dodger tom]

since i’m pointing out things you’ve already considered, i might as well go all the way.

check window rubber, scrapers, vent-wing rubber, etc.

insulation?

i did my locks, window regulator, denim insulation, and beautifully-done vapor barrier only to have the window rubber start to fall apart a coupla months later.

just trying to help.

dt
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1978 Champaign Edition 2 Westfalia
Would never find the time to keep up another classic air-cooled.

[Paul Hatfield]

Hey, I love the advice!
A little background on me and the bus.
This is our second bus, my wife and I owned our first one back in the late 70's and early 80's. Helped us raise kids.
Prior to the bus, and later after the kids were off to college, I went back into air cooled ownership with 356's. I currently have a fully restored 65 C coupe where I did all the work including mechanical, electrical, paint and interior.
VW's I've owned: Dune Buggy, 71 Bus, 2 type 3 squarebacks, 1 super beatle, and now this bus.
As I prepare for retirement (I turn 70 in a few months), the bus will be shared by my wife and I. She will primarily use our 2022 F150, but sometimes I will have the truck and she the bus.
I searched for quite a while for this one. Wanted as little rust as possible, and since I live on the rainy side of Washington State, it took a while to find. This bus has rust under the battery, but all other prone to rust spots are amazingly good. Comes to me via California desert and Eastern Oregon, where is is also dry.
Engine had a valve seat come loose after I owned it only a few weeks, and I have completed a full top end rebuild. Runs great now!
Besides the engine, I have gone through all electrical, fixing the horn, turn signals, wipers and high beams, heater fan and dash repairs including the speedometer. Still have to do brakes.
Tires are only 2 years old- good there.
Bus has some original stuff, including one original 1977 dated Michelin tire that is in the spare tire position. I will show photos later.
Green paint non original, and will go back to original blue during my retirement. Gray interior is original and tired, but it will be clean for now.
Oh, and my search "must have" list included a sunroof and walk through- like we had when first married.
More on my website: www.enginesinback.com

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