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Pajero Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2018 Posts: 38 Location: Kenmore, Washington
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Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2022 5:15 am Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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Just exchange them with PRP, as the Manx mounts are for the Roadster seats. If you ordered the seats and mounts through MM, you would have gotten the Manx mounts. The Manx mounts should really be called VW mounts.
PRP should say, "The Roadster mounts are for Meyers Manx's with flat pans, if you have a Meyers Manx with the rear seat footwells, use the Manx Mounts." |
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Dale M. Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2006 Posts: 20380 Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
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Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2022 7:19 am Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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I actually used these sliders and adapters because the mounts from PRP were more expensive and at the time I did restoration on my buggy "Roadster Mounts" or "Manx" Mounts" were not available,,,
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Universal-Bucket-Seat-Slider-Tracks,7103.html
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Seat-Mount-Plates,7104.html
IT was all about keeping within a budget so project could be completed....
Compare pricing, and can you say "ouch".... _________________ “Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ... |
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Atomic Aerospace Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Phoenix
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2022 10:52 am Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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I'm running into an issue with the existing fuel line. It seems to be clogged and I can't get it unclogged. I have attempted to run a clothes hanger through it, but the bends are too sharp for the clothes hanger. I attempted to blow it out with compressed air, but that didn't work either. I encountered the same issue with the accelerator tube, and I was able to purchase a drain snake which worked quite well. The snake is too big for the fuel line though.
I'd really rather not have to replace the fuel tube. I've read through another forum where someone replaced their fuel tube and it was quite a massive project. Does anybody have any experience with unclogging blocked fuel lines?
_________________ Gecko Green Manxter 2+2 (#188) "The Last Manxter"
"Meyers Manx embodies the spirit of freedom, creativity and fun. No other car gets more smiles per mile than the Meyers Manx!"
From homeless to homeowner.
From uneducated to an MBA scholar.
From a nobody to a corporate aerospace manager.
From a boy to a self made man.
From a dream to reality. |
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joemama Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2006 Posts: 1636 Location: La Crescenta, California
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2022 11:09 am Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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Here is an idea that might work. Most hardware stores sell cable by the foot, get a thickness that will be a little loose inside the fuel line, hook it up to your drill motor and feed it thru the fuel line. Make sure you run the drill in a direction that will not unravel the cable, as it might get jammed.
Good luck. By the way, I replaced my fuel line in my buggy, and while a pain, its not impossible. Probably easiest when the body is off. |
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weasel_ugs Samba Member
Joined: March 16, 2012 Posts: 721 Location: Prescott Valley,Az.
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2022 12:17 pm Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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The cable is a good idea, I think people have used an old speedo cable on a drill as well.
The guy I got that pan from said it was restored by some guy that was supposed to be known for his awesome work restoring pans, I cant remember the name but im really doubting the story or this guys "great" work |
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slayer61 Samba Member
Joined: June 01, 2021 Posts: 1018 Location: CA
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Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2022 7:25 am Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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I used a length of weed eater line to clear mine. That and lots of flushing. _________________
Cusser wrote: |
... Most folks are idiots when it deals with electrical !!! |
67rustavenger wrote: |
3/4 race cam? What's missing, one of the lobes? |
Paul
'68 Manx clone... Sears??
2276 built on AS21 case
W-125 w/ GB 1.25:1 rockers
Mahle forged pistons
CB 4340 crank
CB H beam rods
deep sump
44 HPMX
EMPI GTV 2 STG II wedge ports
CB Magna spark
1 5/8 merged collector w/ hater stinger |
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EVfun Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 5481 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2022 10:26 am Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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I had to replace a fuel line in my first buggy and I ran the new line out next the to clutch and throttle cables, in the spot left for the choke cable tube. That made the install quite easy because you could line it all up with the end sticking out the shift rod access cover. Then push the front of the line down to place that last bend and bring it up through the grommet up front under the gas tank. It was attached at the front and back and had sections of split rubber tubing over the line where it could rub other stuff in the tunnel. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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Atomic Aerospace Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Phoenix
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Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2022 5:23 pm Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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Hey everyone,
It's been a while since i've posted anything! Unfortunately it's been the perfect storm of busy work, busy school and hitting a slump in the project. Just got to push through this and get back on track. I am very hopeful to have the car driving by the fall, but when I look at the amount of work ahead of me it's very daunting
With a lot of work, I finally removed the original seat tracks. A buddy of mine and I went half in on a little welder, and now he is helping me weld up the seat tracks. I really wish I had planned this better, because now i'm going to have to redo the surface paint and the undercarriage truck bedliner. I suppose it's one of those "live and learn" scenarios. In addition to the reapplication of the paint and bedliner, I am going to weld a bar onto the frame to support the seat tracks. Because the seat tracks are more narrow than the original seat tracks, I need to reinforce the frame for the seats. I am also going to add a couple 3" circular reinforcement plates to the front of the seat tracks as well. I understand this is probably overkill, but I don't want any pressure points on the frame. My previous dune buggy has some issues with pressure points from the seats, not gonna let that happen again haha!
Unfortunately my coworker is pretty beat after 10 hours of manual labor in the +100 degree heat, so at the end of the day there's no energy left to help with the welding. So the project is going very slowly. After they're welded on, I will buff them and repaint them (at a later date when I repaint the frame).
Another issue i'm dealing with is the clogged fuel line. I have tried everything I can think of. Weed-eater cable intertwined with safety wire, a solid metal cable, reaming it out with the drill, flooding the line with WD-40, nothing works. Whatever is going on in that line is not coming out. At this point I've decided to just fabricate a new metal fuel line. I purchased some 1/4 SS line from Amazon.
What I will try to do is cut the existing fuel line from the access holes in the front and the rear so I can remove as much of the old line as possible:
Front
Rear
Once the old line is removed I will try to reroute the new line as close as possible to the old line. I have some rubber hose clamps from work I plan to use to hold it in place. It is going to be a big pain I can already tell, but as I said before, "It is what it is". I'm not sure if I should use a standard slip-on hose with a hose clamp for the end, or if I should try to put an AN fitting on the new line and flare the tube. The slip-over fuel hose with a clamp is easier for sure, but an AN fitting and flared line would look much more professional. The flared line could be more prone to leaks as well, and any errors in the flare, or leaks, basically means i'll have to redo the entire line.
The original Manx fuel tank has an M18 x 1.00 fitting. I'm thinking the best option is to connect the fuel tank to the new fuel line with a stainless steel fuel hose. I don't want to connect the metal fuel line directly to the tank (too rigid). I'd like a flexible hose between the tank and the line. I'm trying to figure out how to convert the M18 fitting to a standard AN fuel fitting. Doesn't seem to be a lot of information about it online!
Honestly if I could do it over, I would probably splurge and get a David Barrett chassis. I told myself they are expensive, but i've already put more into this frame than the Barrett chassis costs. I told myself they require some effort, but i've put more effort into restoring this frame. I told myself, at least this frame has a title and is easy to register, but if you've read my other threat about titling the car, that isn't true either. Getting the title transferred into my name has been a nightmare too.
Hopefully once this project is finished, i'll look back and laugh at my growing pains _________________ Gecko Green Manxter 2+2 (#188) "The Last Manxter"
"Meyers Manx embodies the spirit of freedom, creativity and fun. No other car gets more smiles per mile than the Meyers Manx!"
From homeless to homeowner.
From uneducated to an MBA scholar.
From a nobody to a corporate aerospace manager.
From a boy to a self made man.
From a dream to reality.
Last edited by Atomic Aerospace on Mon Jul 04, 2022 8:27 am; edited 1 time in total |
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GS guy Samba Member
Joined: December 03, 2007 Posts: 968 Location: Maryland
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Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2022 6:36 pm Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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Looks pretty simple with one of these:
https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/3288.htm
Just be sure to use a good quality (such as Gates) fuel rated hose.
Jeff _________________ 70's vintage Deserter GS buggy - undergoing transformation to Super GS! |
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Atomic Aerospace Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Phoenix
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Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2022 4:06 pm Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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I had hoped to make some good progress over the holiday weekend, but today I got sick (seems like food poisoning), so now I don't know how much progress I will make.
The seat tracks continue to progress very slowly. I really wish I had planned this better at the beginning, or had a better understanding of the products available. The guy at PRP told me I would need the roadster seat mount, so that's what I got. I purchased them before I started the build. Later on, once I started fitting them to the car, I found out that the Manx seat tracks are actually what I need, because they fit right over the original tracks. PRP wouldn't let me return my seat tracks. So my options are either get the Manx seat mount and eat the cost of the roadster seat mount, or to struggle with it, like i'm doing now.
The roadster seat mounts do not line up with the old seat tracks, so I have to prop up the rear of the mount, and fabricate a doubler for the front of the mount (because the metal is not reinforced).
I've purchased some steel to put on the rear, and made some steel doublers to weld on the front. This gets the seat to sit level, and hopefully distribute some of the weight load.
Welding is still going slow, we've been doing it for months and it's still not done. Part is because my friend only has an hour or so, every other week to help me. Part of it is because we don't have a gas welder, just an electric one. This part of the project is really starting to slow me down.
I sat in the seat (please forgive my lack of photogenic-ness (if that's even a word??)). I feel like the seat is sitting quite low. Once I get the body temporarily mounted I will determine the height. If the seat sits too low, I will have to look for a way to boost the seat mount even higher, while maintaining the structural integrity.
These seats have really kicked my butt.
_________________ Gecko Green Manxter 2+2 (#188) "The Last Manxter"
"Meyers Manx embodies the spirit of freedom, creativity and fun. No other car gets more smiles per mile than the Meyers Manx!"
From homeless to homeowner.
From uneducated to an MBA scholar.
From a nobody to a corporate aerospace manager.
From a boy to a self made man.
From a dream to reality. |
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weasel_ugs Samba Member
Joined: March 16, 2012 Posts: 721 Location: Prescott Valley,Az.
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Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2022 10:47 am Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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When I remounted the seats in my dunebuggy I tried the easiest first which was too high and made me feel like I was sitting above the body. I ended up doing what was necessary to get them on the floor.
From what I have seen on here most people go with getting them as close to the floor as possible unless you have really high sides or a tall body lift. |
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clonebug Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2005 Posts: 4028 Location: NW Washington
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Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2022 12:22 pm Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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Atomic Aerospace wrote: |
I had hoped to make some good progress over the holiday weekend, but today I got sick (seems like food poisoning), so now I don't know how much progress I will make.
The seat tracks continue to progress very slowly. I really wish I had planned this better at the beginning, or had a better understanding of the products available. The guy at PRP told me I would need the roadster seat mount, so that's what I got. I purchased them before I started the build. Later on, once I started fitting them to the car, I found out that the Manx seat tracks are actually what I need, because they fit right over the original tracks. PRP wouldn't let me return my seat tracks. So my options are either get the Manx seat mount and eat the cost of the roadster seat mount, or to struggle with it, like i'm doing now.
The roadster seat mounts do not line up with the old seat tracks, so I have to prop up the rear of the mount, and fabricate a doubler for the front of the mount (because the metal is not reinforced).
I've purchased some steel to put on the rear, and made some steel doublers to weld on the front. This gets the seat to sit level, and hopefully distribute some of the weight load.
Welding is still going slow, we've been doing it for months and it's still not done. Part is because my friend only has an hour or so, every other week to help me. Part of it is because we don't have a gas welder, just an electric one. This part of the project is really starting to slow me down.
I sat in the seat (please forgive my lack of photogenic-ness (if that's even a word??)). I feel like the seat is sitting quite low. Once I get the body temporarily mounted I will determine the height. If the seat sits too low, I will have to look for a way to boost the seat mount even higher, while maintaining the structural integrity.
These seats have really kicked my butt.
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Is that a full length body???
If I were you I would set the seat sliders in the full back position and then move the seats back until your legs are fully stretched out. Anyone taller than you wouldn't be able to drive it without modification.
I have a shortened pan and my seats are back to where I can just bottom out the clutch pedal and the seats are almost touching the taper of the tunnel.
The rails have plenty of slide for shorter people.
Get the seats as low as possible....you don't want your head to be above the windshield if possible.
The PRP brackets that mount to the seat and hold the sliders can be installed low or high....get them to the low position.
I would set the body on and sit in it to see how it feels.
Sit in someone else's buggy with low seats if possible to get a feel for the position.
I've had my PRP's for 15 years and I need to replace the covers....the weather and wear have taken it's toll. _________________
vwracerdave wrote: |
Take a good long look in the mirror and report back on what you see. |
Paul.H wrote: |
That one line on that chart is probably better info than you can get from this place in a month |
My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
Water/Alcohol Injection
Audi TT intercooler
Upgraded to MS3Pro-Evo
EcuMaster PMU16
ECUMaster ADU5 Digital Dash
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936 |
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Atomic Aerospace Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Phoenix
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Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2022 12:52 pm Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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clonebug wrote: |
Is that a full length body???
If I were you I would set the seat sliders in the full back position and then move the seats back until your legs are fully stretched out. Anyone taller than you wouldn't be able to drive it without modification.
I have a shortened pan and my seats are back to where I can just bottom out the clutch pedal and the seats are almost touching the taper of the tunnel.
The rails have plenty of slide for shorter people.
Get the seats as low as possible....you don't want your head to be above the windshield if possible.
The PRP brackets that mount to the seat and hold the sliders can be installed low or high....get them to the low position.
I would set the body on and sit in it to see how it feels.
Sit in someone else's buggy with low seats if possible to get a feel for the position.
I've had my PRP's for 15 years and I need to replace the covers....the weather and wear have taken it's toll. |
Hi Clonebug,
Thank you for the advice, I appreciate it! Right now I have the seats set at mid position. This way I will have room to move the seats forward or backwards, if need be. I don't plan on anybody else driving the car, so I want to position it to where I am most comfortable, but can also maximize backseat room if need be. IF anyone drove my car, it would be one of my siblings, who are all shorter than I am (I'm 5'9").
So my logic is this: mount the seat, which is set at mid point, to a distance which I am comfortable. Then it can move slightly forward, or slightly backward, if need be.
I don't think i'm familiar with how to adjust the height on the seat mounts? Mine seem to be at a fixed height, it doesn't seem like they go up or down? I will definitely verify with the body on before making any final decisions.
Weasel_ugs: I suppose I will have to see about the fit one the body is temp mounted. Right now, body off, it seems a little low to me... _________________ Gecko Green Manxter 2+2 (#188) "The Last Manxter"
"Meyers Manx embodies the spirit of freedom, creativity and fun. No other car gets more smiles per mile than the Meyers Manx!"
From homeless to homeowner.
From uneducated to an MBA scholar.
From a nobody to a corporate aerospace manager.
From a boy to a self made man.
From a dream to reality. |
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clonebug Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2005 Posts: 4028 Location: NW Washington
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Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2022 2:45 pm Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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Atomic Aerospace wrote: |
clonebug wrote: |
Is that a full length body???
If I were you I would set the seat sliders in the full back position and then move the seats back until your legs are fully stretched out. Anyone taller than you wouldn't be able to drive it without modification.
I have a shortened pan and my seats are back to where I can just bottom out the clutch pedal and the seats are almost touching the taper of the tunnel.
The rails have plenty of slide for shorter people.
Get the seats as low as possible....you don't want your head to be above the windshield if possible.
The PRP brackets that mount to the seat and hold the sliders can be installed low or high....get them to the low position.
I would set the body on and sit in it to see how it feels.
Sit in someone else's buggy with low seats if possible to get a feel for the position.
I've had my PRP's for 15 years and I need to replace the covers....the weather and wear have taken it's toll. |
Hi Clonebug,
Thank you for the advice, I appreciate it! Right now I have the seats set at mid position. This way I will have room to move the seats forward or backwards, if need be. I don't plan on anybody else driving the car, so I want to position it to where I am most comfortable, but can also maximize backseat room if need be. IF anyone drove my car, it would be one of my siblings, who are all shorter than I am (I'm 5'9").
So my logic is this: mount the seat, which is set at mid point, to a distance which I am comfortable. Then it can move slightly forward, or slightly backward, if need be.
I don't think i'm familiar with how to adjust the height on the seat mounts? Mine seem to be at a fixed height, it doesn't seem like they go up or down? I will definitely verify with the body on before making any final decisions.
Weasel_ugs: I suppose I will have to see about the fit one the body is temp mounted. Right now, body off, it seems a little low to me... |
The height has to do with the angle iron piece that mounts to the seat. You can mount the side to the seat mounts two ways...... as a Capital L or as a Capital L inverted.......if you know what I mean.
The flat surface will then be either below or above the bolt mounts of the seat.....if the seat mounts are still a vertical mount like mine were.
I don't have any pics of the correct way but here is a pic of the wrong way which makes them sit at least and inch taller.
Here are the seat mount tabs.....
Now....unbolt the two angle pieces and just rotate them 180 degrees but on the same sides...The gap has to stay where it is so the angled side will be pointing down instead of up......get it???
In essense...it puts the mounting holes for the seat tabs almost below the manx mount that I have.
I did mount them wrong the first time and figured it out after pulling the seats out later and looking them over because I wasn't happy with the height. _________________
vwracerdave wrote: |
Take a good long look in the mirror and report back on what you see. |
Paul.H wrote: |
That one line on that chart is probably better info than you can get from this place in a month |
My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
Water/Alcohol Injection
Audi TT intercooler
Upgraded to MS3Pro-Evo
EcuMaster PMU16
ECUMaster ADU5 Digital Dash
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936 |
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oprn Samba Member
Joined: November 13, 2016 Posts: 12744 Location: Western Canada
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Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2022 3:27 pm Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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I have glass buckets in my Buggy mounted very low. I am 6' + and if the seats were and higher the top of the windshield would be right across my vision. It's very close to that now. There is very little padding on these seats and you cannot get your fingers between the seat bottom and the floor pan.
Take a look at my daughter in this picture who is about 3" shorter than I am.
As for the statement "I don't plan on anybody else driving the car," that is a bit short sighted and, if you don't mind me saying so, also somewhat selfish. I get as much or more pleasure out of seeing someone else experiencing what great fun these cars are to drive as I do driving them myself! Just look at the poop-eating grins on those girls! _________________ We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age) |
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Atomic Aerospace Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Phoenix
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Posted: Sun Dec 25, 2022 1:41 pm Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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Clonebug: unfortunately my seat mount is a different configuration than yours. I can't reverse the bottom mounts. The bottom mounts are also attached together by two welded bars, so I can't even try to flip them or invert them...
Oprn: I understand where you are coming from, but I think the mid mount makes most sense. Like I said, i'm 5'9", so there's a good change that people driving the car will either be a little shorter, or perhaps a little taller than me. Allowing them to adjust forwards and backwards, from the mid-point, makes most sense. I certainly don't want the top of the windshield in my line of sight either! Also, as an unmarried man who doesn't want kids, the only people driving my car would be very close friends. My sisters have no interest in it, and my parents prefer it when I drive them around (they don't like driving haha), so pretty much the primary driver is going to be me. _________________ Gecko Green Manxter 2+2 (#188) "The Last Manxter"
"Meyers Manx embodies the spirit of freedom, creativity and fun. No other car gets more smiles per mile than the Meyers Manx!"
From homeless to homeowner.
From uneducated to an MBA scholar.
From a nobody to a corporate aerospace manager.
From a boy to a self made man.
From a dream to reality. |
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Atomic Aerospace Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Phoenix
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Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2022 2:03 pm Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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Taking a break from the dreaded seat tracks, I started on another project I have been avoiding: modifying the passenger sidebrace. The mount for the B hoop on the right sidebrace was too far back (I posted about it in this thread). I used numerous different persuasion techniques, but it's just too far back. The mount needs to come forward by about 2". I removed the sidebrace mount tab and will weld it back on in the correct position. I really didn't want to remove it, but I didn't have much choice. The B hoop is as far back as it can go, and the tab is way off, so it needs to be modified.
In addition, i've oversized some of the holes in the frames so things fit together better. As it was, the cage took a lot of persuasion to fit into place. I'd much rather make the holes slightly bigger and have things fit together better. Now the assembly is not under so much stress, and doesn't put as much stress on the fiberglass.
This, of course, means the sidebrace will need to be re-powder coated. A note to anyone planning/building their projects: DO NOT PAINT ANYTHING UNTIL THE END. I can't stress this enough! _________________ Gecko Green Manxter 2+2 (#188) "The Last Manxter"
"Meyers Manx embodies the spirit of freedom, creativity and fun. No other car gets more smiles per mile than the Meyers Manx!"
From homeless to homeowner.
From uneducated to an MBA scholar.
From a nobody to a corporate aerospace manager.
From a boy to a self made man.
From a dream to reality. |
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Atomic Aerospace Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Phoenix
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Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2023 9:41 am Post subject: Re: Gecko Green Manxter 5083 - Frame Preparation |
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It's been a while, but life has been busy! Not that it matters, since most of these threads are fairly dead anyways haha. For future builders, be sure to visit the Manx groups on Facebook, they are much more lively.
To recap, I had painted the top of the frame with POR-15, and applied an undercarriage truck bedliner. Unfortunately, my poor planning came back to bite me in the butt: I had to remove the original seat tracks and modify the frame to add reinforcement for the new seat tracks. Between tearing out the old tracks and welding in reinforcement for the new tracks, the POR-15 and bedliner were both destroyed.
I reapplied POR-15 to the top of the frame and spot coated the bottom with bedliner. Then I applied bedliner to the top of the frame over the POR-15.
I purchased some sound deadening material I saw in a video by Chris Vallone on Youtube, the stuff seems to work great! A heat gun and roller helped out greatly.
I ordered some marine carpet and adhesive online from Albright Carpet Supplies. I ordered the more flexible carpet to get in all the tight edges. Unfortunately the carpet does seem kind of flimsy, however this is necessary for carpet flexibility. I certainly gained an appreciation for applying carpet! I decided to split the carpet into two sections to make it more manageable. I applied the seam to the middle, which would be sandwiched between the seats where it won't be seen.
After this, the body will be installed for the final time! _________________ Gecko Green Manxter 2+2 (#188) "The Last Manxter"
"Meyers Manx embodies the spirit of freedom, creativity and fun. No other car gets more smiles per mile than the Meyers Manx!"
From homeless to homeowner.
From uneducated to an MBA scholar.
From a nobody to a corporate aerospace manager.
From a boy to a self made man.
From a dream to reality. |
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