How to lower a Bus and all lowering questions

[FeveredMind]

[Krustybus]

Type 3 missing some parts
Type 3 drum that’s been drilled and had studs pressed in.

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Tim

[galencurrington]

i'm working on a 56 single cab for a guy and he wanted me to get in running and do the brakes. he brought it to my house and i put it up on stands and took a wheel off and to my amazement i can't believe someone would lower a bus this way and expect to have someone drive it and feel safe doing it. It also was running the original master cylinder from 1956 that just kills me but oh they replace the speedo cable. That's just unreal to me. also in the back they just flipped the RGB to drop the rear. i have heard of that but it's not a good idea because of oilling and stuff. i honestly don't know who tried to build this single cab before he bought it but dang man so unsafe. now i have to explain it to him now he's going to have to spend a bunch to make it safe and reliable to drive more than what he planned on.

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"asking and getting are two different things"

[cdennisg]

^^^ that kind of build quality is what gives lowered vehicles a bad reputation.

Sorry to see the guy got hosed, but with an old car, as always, Buyer beware!
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nothing

[EverettB]

It's fine because it has a sway bar added.

Seriously though, they really went all out on that with minimal leaves left in place. That is crazy, I feel like they would snap after a few large bumps.
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[galencurrington]

I like how they used hose clamps for some of the sway bar mounts. They also welded the bumper brackets to the body.

I've been around these cars a long time and have seen alot of tricks that some people will do. Throw alot of mud on something and paint it red to using foam spray and painting it black to using a piece of slinky to tighten up a main bearing. I see stuff like this all the time and people they bought their cars off of say they took it to a vw shop or he knew how to work one them. The last car i worked on all the exhaust was just finger tight and valve clearance was way to tight it ran awful. I think I care to much and i'm very anal and try to do things correctly and safely. It just kills me.
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"asking and getting are two different things"

[NAES]

The above build brings back some memories!

Back in the mid 90's my first bus was slammed by pulling leaves. I ran 2 upper and 2 lower, temporary tires and a home made straight axle using a regular long axle trans and s-shaped spring plates. I ran on pretty much bottomed out shocks and drove it all over to school, shows and wherever else! Looking back I can't believe I didn't break major parts on the regular.

Thankfully I've come a long way since then but honestly they were some of the most fun VW times I can remember.
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Barndoor Mafia
Box On Wheels
SBS #00

[CanStan]

I’m trying to make sense of some straight axles I have. After reading through hours of threads, I can’t find the answer.

I suspect the tubes may have been lengthened, although I can’t find any evidence of that looking inside them. I would think there would be an obvious seam visible?
The axles themselves measure 28” long, and have long spines. So they are long / long. But they were installed in a set of axle tubes with short end castings and a bearing cap meant for short end castings (311 501 311). Without the ‘A’ suffix which would be for long end castings I believe.
The tubes measure 21-7/8” which is the length of the ‘68 long end casting tubes.

Here’s what I have:

This measurement is 21-7/8”:

These are my axles which to me look long / long and measure 28”:

Measurement of the tube from the trans to where the spring plate bolts to the flange is 18-1/4”:

Ultimately, I guess my question is, have these been lengthened? Will they work without needing offset spring plates? I’ve found lots of references to adding 1-1/8” to standard tubes, but I’m having trouble finding the correct measurements to tell me if this is what’s been done here.
Any help is appreciated.

[cdennisg]

Here's a shot I took many years ago showing the three axle lengths.

I can't recall the exact measurement for a modified axle tube right now (to use without offset spring plates), but I have a gut feeling that is exactly what you have.
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[CanStan]

[cdennisg]

[CanStan]

Thanks so much for taking the time to check that measurement. Would I be right I thinking having that total length of 21-7/8” means the flange to attach the spring plate to for sure sits in the right spot with the short end casting? I believe so, because adding 1-1/8” to the tube makes up for the difference in widths of the short and long end castings.

I still find it strange that looking down the tubes, I can’t see any evidence of a seam where the extra length of tube was welded in. I even sanded down the outside of the whole tube to check for a weld. Nothing found. I think most people weld to the area inside the casting, so I can’t see the outside there obviously. But you’d think inside, I’d see something?

I just want to be 100% positive these will be proper for someone else to use on their Bus. Time to recover some of that extra $1000 I spend unnecessarily.
I definitely thought I was doing the right thing after reading through the lowering threads before I started. But that’s the joy of taking on someone else’s partially done project and not knowing what’s been done. Or more importantly, what’s been done properly, and what’s been done incorrectly.

[cdennisg]

Someone may have pressed them onto long axle tubes after removing the long end castings, and didn't weld on an extra section of tube. Pretty sure it can be done that way.
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[CanStan]

[cdennisg]

[crimble]

Hello all.. I am not sure if I am in the right forum here, but it seems relevant.. and i am talking about raising, not lowering!! So my question is for you skilled and knowledgeable people. I have had my 1966 Splitty for 15 years, and some time ago (maybe 10 years) I decided that it was a good idea to put in a Creative Engineering steering rack and front disc brakes. From memory this meant that I had to get some drop spindles added. Anyway, for the last 10 years I have had an issue that whenever there are two or three of us in the front seat or we are carrying some heavier luggage, if I go over a bump in the road or the suspension compresses too much, the front tyres rub the bottom of the wheel arches. My original solution was to get some lower profile front tyres, hoping that it would fix the problem (which it partially did - until I got fatter or carried a heavier load in the front!) - apart from throwing the speedo miles out, it prevented the issue from happening as much, but did not stop the problem. It hasn't bothered me until now.. and now it bothers me!! I need some new front tyres now, and I want to go back to the original tyre profile to match the rears - my question is..how can I adjust the suspension or front beam so that the body is lifted high enough off the wheels to stop the tyres rubbing the inside bottom wheel arches? Or is it more of a case of cutting out the floor pan (which I am very loathed to do) and put a curved arch in.. and and all suggestions would be very gratefully received.

Cheers in advance

[Mauidude]

Crimble , I have a similar issue but different parts, do you have an adjustable front beam? If you do then you should be able to raise it up a few inches, typically drop spindles only drop 2-2.5 inches. It’s also possible the front torsion leaves are old and saggy. Best of luck

[cdennisg]

Standard split bus drop spindles will lower the front 3 1/2". Not sure if that Creative Engineering front end is adjustable, but I bet it is, a least a little bit.

Front wheel tubs are made for just the issue you are asking about. Clearance for the front tires during suspension movement. If you want to run a larger tire, you either need to raise the front suspension, or install tubs.
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[karl h]

my CE front end is adjustable
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[Dsaaylesworth]

I have the opportunity to purchase a set of long tube long axle short spline axles with wide five drums. The seller says they are from a 67’ bug. I was hoping that someone could tell me if these will work on 64’ S.C. to swap out my GRB axles? I would also like to know if I should use offset adjustable spring plates or will straight notched adjustable spring plates work? I appreciate any information on these questions!
Thank you!