Master brake cylinder pressure switch

[4118thing]

Is there a washer that mounts on the pressure switch when screwing into the master cylinder? Or Teflon, or other tape, used?

[SGKent]

I don't know. Maybe someone else will. Here is an image from jersey looker. Yo have to click on it to see it.

Below that is an image of an empi switch from Amazon. It shows threadlock on it.

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[aeromech]

No, they seem to seal like pipe thread
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[kreemoweet]

I've never seen a washer used with brake light switches on VW's. The original switches had a tapered threads and sealed like tapered pipe thread, even though the M/C's have straight threading. The Bentley manuals for late Type 1's and Type 2's do erroneously mention sealing washers, but no such thing appears in drawings or parts lists. Apparently some Porsche models used switches with straight threads and sealing washers (you can get such 2-terminal switches at places like www.pelicanparts.com ). I've variously installed the switches dry, lubed with brake fluid, or lubed with Permatex #2, and never had a leak in any case. But then I abandoned those pressure switches and converted to a mechanical switch a long time ago because it was impossible to find pressure switches that weren't complete junk.
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[NASkeet]

Here are the electrical circuits for the three-terminal, hydraulic brake-light switches, with early & late type, hydraulic brake-circuit failure, dashboard warning lights.

Early Type

a = black-cable connection to ignition-controlled supply terminal 15.

b = black/red-cable connection to rear brake lights


Late Type

A = electric switch inside brake-circuit-failure warning-light unit

B = 3-terminal brake-light switch

C = Dual-circuit brake warning lamp

a = blue cable to brake-circuit-failure warning-light unit's
internal switch-terminal 61 (shared with ignition warning light)

b = black cable to fuse-box terminal 15

c = brown cable to Earth (i.e. Ground in USA parlance)

d = black/red cable to brake lights
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[metahacker]

They shouldn't require anything. They have tapered threads and usually come with some dried goo pre-applied.

Hand tighten them then turn them a bit more using actual wrench force. General best practice on NPT plumbing is considered somewhere not far from 1-2 wrench turns. You will need to be the judge, but the idea is to not roach the material.

You may, theoretically, use Loctite 567 if you feel compelled. I have never needed to do that.

Also, when it comes to these switches, I'd also recommend buying the best quality ones you can.
Your life can literally depend on them.

Many "typical" switches can leak, or explode when you hit the brakes and disable that circuit of your brake system, they can also have extremely unreliable actuation - e.g. no brake lights, or massive latency on the lights.
I experienced the latter recently with a Bus I had bought that had 2 brand new switches on it of "typical" replacement quality. The brakes lights didn't respond reliably at all. I would not recommend engaging in the AutoZone or BusDepot crap-shoot on this part.

If you buy the Porsche OEM branded part of the same PN, it's a genuine original German switch with a VAG logo on it (e.g. VW circle + Audi rings)... at least it was for me when I bought them very recently.

I'm not sure which variety you need, but there is a 3 pin in Porsche OEM bagging here:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/search/?q=113945515G&redir=yes&host=search
I recently installed 2 of those Porsche ones and they are exquisite in every way; as it came from the factory.

If one is hard pressed for the $34 price difference between them, the ATE is worth consideration. I suspect it's likely no longer made in Germany, though... but can't say for sure; maybe it's the same thing without the Porsche bag.

[malcolm2]

Found this one today. Figured I would ad one more here for future needs.

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[NASkeet]