Engine decisions for 60 beetle

[Kthomas]

Today I crimped the rubber mat onto the running boards (as well as played with the F*%+#$& doors again

[mukluk]

New door seals are always tight for a while and make it a little difficult to close the doors. They'll form to their new home and the doors will be easy to close again with a little time. Make sure the seal channels in the doors have been completely cleaned out of the old seals and any glue or sealant before installing the new ones.

Speaking of cleaning out channels, have you verified all remnants of the old headlight seals and any rust/debris/crud are cleared out of the seal groove in the fenders?
_________________
1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[toxicavenger70]

The new seals are grey in color. I believe it is the coating on the rubber when it is produced. They do take a long time to break in.

[Kthomas]

Its kind of strange that all the other seals are black and they are grey but ?

I had a little success today on one of the wings. I got it to close on the new seal. The other is just about there but not yet. I think the hinge may be a little bent but I’m not positive. I loosened the top screws and tried to adjust the hinge a little but didn’t achieve much.

Trying to move forward on the doors I realized the new door lock mechanism I bought wasn’t working correctly. The latch wasnt returning so I took it back out.
See pic ! The piece got bent. ( I’m not sure if it was me or it came like that ).
I went to straighten it and it just flew out of the assembly. Looking at an old one this piece looks a little more substantial on the older one.

[Kthomas]

Just finished getting new seals and window i one-off the doors ! Yipppeeee !

[Kthomas]

Anyone have an extra one of these laying around or know somewhere in the states that has them ? Door stop .

[mukluk]

[Kthomas]

Thank You !
I couldn’t believe the price they were asking overseas . It’s comforting to know they aren’t unobtainable 😀 I could probably make one fairly easy.

[Kthomas]

Front over-riders need a lot of bending unless I’m missing something. The rear ones fit fine.

[Kthomas]

Over-riders
The original ones are heavier and have more of a curve. I just had one.

[Kthomas]

Horn
I just mounted the horn I cleaned up and painted. I should have checked it before I went to ll that trouble to see if it even worked 🤦‍♂️
Anyway, withe the switch off I have power to the yellow and black. There is continuity between the brown and the rest of the car . I’m not sure how this is supposed to work. Seems it should not be this way. Either way the horn doesn’t beep. Also , do I need a relay. It’s 12 volts. I didn’t put a relay in the circuit.

[Kthomas]

[61SNRF]

[Kthomas]

Thanks for the tips and thanks for the link.
I have power going to the yellow and black without pushing the horn button. I would think that is not the way it should be.
I have the later turn signal assembly and it may be wired wrong but I’ve checked it and think I followed the right plan but ?

[61SNRF]

Look at your schematic WD and you will see that power to the horn should be constant no matter which TS switch or year Beetle you have. Just make sure you use the most appropriate wiring diagram to find out which fuse/source the power comes from as that is the only difference between them all.

To troubleshoot it is important to understand the horn is designed to operate by having the ground circuit completed which starts at the brown wire and continues on a long path. See info in link to find out how the circuit travels to ground through the steering column/wheel/horn ring you have.

That said, no matter which T/S switch you're using, if you are using the '60 steering column/wheel/ring then be sure to read and understand this quote from the WW link:

1960-1961 Deluxe model Beetles
This was the first year of the dished style wheel. Almost everything about these two years is unique when it comes to the horn circuit. The principals of this circuit are basically the same as 1962-1967 (which we will mention next). Instead of using a wire to run current from the horn button down the column to a ground source, the steering shaft itself was used as the electrical conductor. This meant that the tube and the shaft would need to be insulated from each other. VW did this by using plastic spacers and shims. Don’t bother calling for the components pertaining to this assembly as they are very scarce. If you need replacement parts, the best solution is to convert your arrangement to the 1962-1967 variety. You will need a steering column, steering wheel and a horn ring with attaching hardware to make the change.
_________________
-Bruce

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

[Kthomas]

Ok
I’m back after a year hiatus. Same issues but moving forward. I just ordered an original check rod and I painted up the old front bumper bracket . I need to get another or extend one of the new ones I got. The news are too short and the pull the bumper in too close to the hood.
Next on the agenda is to try and put headliner in. I asked everyone around here for help on that front. None of the old car upholstery guys want to take it on . Neither did the vw businesses. Neither do I 🤪
I’m conflicted (similar to afflicted ) as to whether I should use my old trim pieces or buy a new kit. The pieces I have are banged up some and it doesn’t seem easy to get them straight. Also, where they chrome at one time or ?They look like plain aluminum but it seems I read somewhere they were originally chrome.
I thought about sanding them some but ?

[Kthomas]

I decided to take it for its first drive in 30+ years. None of the interior work is done so I just stuck a seat base in and went for a drive. After getting back I noticed a lot of the paint that was on the springs was flaking off . This is the color matched spay bombs for sale. I wish I had just made up some single stage and painted it with that or left the springs alone. The picture just shows a little bit . I had already cleaned up a huge pile when I took the pic. I guess I could wrap it in plastic or ?
On the plus side the car ran and drove great !

[Kthomas]

I started putting in the padding for the headliner today. It was a precut one. The only problem is it all had to be recut and two pieces were left out. Also there were two extra back window pieces. Unless they were to be glued on top of the other. In which case why wouldn’t the foam be just as thick as the side pieces which were thicker. Also the piece under the rear window is of the thinner variety but there isn’t a second piece of it.
Any thoughts anyone ?
Any of you used this ?

Also, the roof portion wasn’t even wide enough !
I wish I had just bought a roll of jute ( or whatever it is ) and cut it all from scratch.

I liked the glue I bought but I wish I had gotten 3 or 4 cans as I used 2 completely. It had a great spray pattern.

On another note , I checked at the back of my speedometer to see why it wasn’t working and realized the cable didn’t reach up that far. WTF. Too short ! The parts situation is a joke at times. It was a new cable.

[Kthomas]

On the speedometer cable front I’m wondering if I just need to figure how to push the outer cable into the back of the drum further. It has one of the steel sleeves as opposed to the rubber boot.. I initially pushed the outer cable in till it met resistance and then stopped. I then shot silicone around it.

[Rome]