140A alternator on AHU Tdi conversion: spinning problem

ALIKA T3 · Last edited by ALIKA T3 on Tue Jan 28, 2014 10:09 am; edited 2 times in total

Aloha all!

I'm working slowly on my 1.9L M-Tdi AHU conversion and I'm mounting a Bosch 140A alternator #07K 903 023C instead of the original Tdi 120A #028903026G.
The body is plug and play on the mount.Bueno. Very Happy

The clutch pulley on the 140A alternator is a 5 groove model instead of 6.
I didn't want to replace the pulley with a solid model, so I ordered the 6 groove INA clutch pulley like the one on the 120A alternator.
I thought this would be plug and play as well…. Mad

I got a big problem, the 140A alternator has a left hand thread VS right hand thread on the 120A. I checked the pulleys, and DUH! they're meant to spin different ways. No bueno Evil or Very Mad

I'm not asking for a unicorn clutch pulley with left hand threads meant to spin the other way,I know there must be a reason for the thread and rotation way.

I'm wondering here if anybody could point me towards a 140A alternator like the one I have but that would spin like on a AHU Tdi engine so I can either buy this correct alternator or at least swap the shaft/rotor to suit the AHU Tdi rotation way/pulley.

Other option I have would be to cut down the threads on the shaft, sleeve, weld and cut new threads with a die, but that would cost more than another alternator I presume Rolling Eyes

Alternator 140A

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

120A on the left, 140A on the right.
120A old 6 groove pulley, 120A new pulley, 140A 5 groove pulley

Thank you

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syncroserge · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:10 pm Post subject:

I have a 140A on my ALH. I'll get you the part # first thing tomorrow mornin' Cool

ALIKA T3 · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:30 pm Post subject:

Sweet!

Merci Serge Cool

Do you have the clutch pulley as well on it?
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
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furrylittleotter · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:40 pm Post subject:

Is it possible to just run a 5 groove belt?

Neil2

hans j · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:14 pm Post subject:

I don't think I'm running a clutch pulley on mine. I think it's just a 5 rib pulley that fit the offset correctly. I'll double check. I'll have to look for the 160 amp, might be nice but really have had zero issues with my 120.
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1986 Canadian Syncro Westy TDI - 1989 Syncro Single Cab - 2001 Audi S4 - 1981 VW Caddy ABA - 1980 VW Caddy EV - 1973 VW T-181

syncroserge · Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:40 am Post subject:

Darn rear hatch lock was frozen solid...crazy winter this year Evil or Very Mad

06F 903 023 F , 6 rib clutch pulley. It's from a BRM TDI 2006 Jetta if my memory is good.

ALIKA T3 · Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 9:54 am Post subject:

ALIKA T3 · Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 10:08 am Post subject:

syncroserge · Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 10:14 am Post subject:

Past the 140A there is a 150A then a 180 and 190A but all those from 150A up that I have seen have a different
mount setup so won't fit earlier engines.

140A is pretty good, especially since it charges (mine at least) closer to 14.5V. All the 120A and previous seem to charge closer to 14V.

ALIKA T3 · Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 10:27 am Post subject:

svenakela · Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 10:38 am Post subject:

Wow, do you really need 140 A?
I "only" have the 120 A and it doesn't come close to that. Not even with the electrical coolant heaters I will.

My previous Touran had a 160 A, I had to replace the clutch after 240 000 km and let a car electrical workshop service it at the same time. They test ran it up to 180 A and he said that all fresh alternators produces more than the rate value.

syncroserge · Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 1:05 pm Post subject:

zeohsix · Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 1:14 pm Post subject:

Alika, I think the only purpose of the "clutched" pulley is for fast RPM changes like a GTI manual transmission would see in running to redline in the gears. Are you planning on racing around the Island with your rig?
I am putting a 120AMP unit on my 1.8T conversion and am not too worried about not using a ovverun clutch set up on my installation plus, they are prone to failure from corrosion something to consider in your local. Aloha from the mainland Very Happy

MarkWard · Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 1:24 pm Post subject:

The TDI came with a clutched alternator pulley stock even on the 90amp alternator. It is unlikely the engineers put it there for no reason. Redline in a TDI is around 4000 rpm, well that is about where max hp is.

Some AGM batteries have listed recommended charging voltages. 14.5 volts seems high from memory.

Even though alternators are rated for high amp outputs, it is unlikely you would see extended high amp outputs. On a discharged battery, they tend to spike out high and then taper way off. This keeps from cooking the battery. There are ways to work around this limitation, but get quickly complicated monitoring battery temp etc.

We have found the stock 120 Amp alternator more than adequate for maintaining our 115 amp AGM along with our wet cell starting battery. Diesels don't have a lot of electrical loads stock.

svenakela · Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 1:42 pm Post subject:

hans j · Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 1:43 pm Post subject:

Plus on an ALH eTDI conversion, I believe the ECU can regulate the output amperage of the alternator? There is the W controller wire from ECU to alternator, and when I was doing my conversion, that was the only info I could find on the wire.

I have two bad batteries running my van and fridge (I use used batteries that don't test well) and have had zero issues with the 120amp alternator charging them. I'll be getting new batteries this summer when I run my fridge more!
_________________
1986 Canadian Syncro Westy TDI - 1989 Syncro Single Cab - 2001 Audi S4 - 1981 VW Caddy ABA - 1980 VW Caddy EV - 1973 VW T-181

MarkWard · Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 1:56 pm Post subject:

I tied in the W lead to my ECU because it was there and in the diagrams, but have no idea what it does. I also tied in my AC compressor to the ECU and again, have no idea what that does either. The ECU seems to maintain the idle regardless of load?

zeohsix · Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 4:24 pm Post subject:

Makes sense a oil burner would have a clutched alternator dutifully schooled Very Happy

ALIKA T3 · Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:07 pm Post subject:

Hi Serge, yes the weather makes up for it for sure Cool

I'm gonna try to answer the questions:

140A, because I tried to find a good 120A used online (don't want a crappy new chinese alternator) and I couldn't find a decent one.
I found a near new 140A alternator for less than 90 bucks shipped to Hawai'i: DEAL Very Happy

So, well, cool, I have an extra 20A, can't hurt,right? Embarassed

The Tdi I'm mounting it on is built with a mechanical injection pump.

Now I need a 140A rotor from a Tdi or equivalent right hand threaded …. Rolling Eyes

As far as the clutch pulley, I made some research a while back, and all I remembered is I need to have one Laughing

I found this video that's kinda cool:

Link

_________________
Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

outwesty · Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 10:22 pm Post subject:

Interesting, please post the part # when you figure out which alt works. Most of you probably already know this but definitely run the clutched pulley on a TDI. The belt runs so much smoother its crazy. I have replaced two alternators on the road on my TDI van and the new alts never come with the clutched pulley so make sure you keep the special tool in the van so you can switch them out on the road if needed. I used to run the 120a....and now run the 90 as they are so easy to find. It has no problem topping off my 130A/H Trojan battery.


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140A alternator on AHU Tdi conversion: spinning problem
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