Vanagon went nuts, electronically-speaking!

[rogertj]

I need some help guys! I've checked some threads on the electric subject of the infamous blue alternator wire

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=601889

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6257153#6257153

and while that could be the solution to my problem I have my doubts heres why: the thing is that my Van went nuts when It was driving it. And I had to tow it...

What it did is that at the beginning the starter wouldnt crank and I had to start it in second gear (thank God mine is a manual) however when I managed to cross the border back to home it when nuts on me, the dash became almost dark, the hazard lights began to blink to fast, and on the dash area or fuse area began to make a sound every time I turned the key on that by the way I have never heard, and when I tried to crank it again the Van was completely dead. That happened on Saturday, Today Monday I connected the battery and the hazard lights where normal. Don't now whats happening maybe it's a region problem

Just checked the battery and it's at 11'sh volts so it got drained a little bit, I just tried to crank it but doesn't run maybe needs more juice in the battery ill try to jump start it to see if it runs.

The question is the following:
1.- Could that blue wire bee the problem? Is the blue wire sucking juice from the battery if not connected properly? (I ask this because every few months battery goes dead and it seems that maybe it has a loose wire or something is causing the battery to drain)
2.- Or this blue wire is just an indicator to the dash?
3.- Can I do a continuity test to a specific wire to see where the problem is?
4.- Could it be a relay in the fuse box of the Van thats causing this issues?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
_________________
Roger
Had a Carbureted ABA after engoing the heck out of it now going for ABA 2.0 Jetta EFI ill put a garrett in to the tin can later or maybe go electric?
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

[MarkWard]

First step is to recharge the battery. You need 12.6 volts after charging and removing the surface charge by turning the headlights on and off for 30 seconds. Then you can proceed to investigate.

[Wildthings]

If you have been jumping it to get it going, I would worry that you managed to harm the ECU or other electronics. The blue wire probably is not your main problem at this point. It both grounds the charge light on the dash and depending on your alternator provides an "excite" current for your alternator.

Your problem could just be low voltage, you can't run a car forever with a non charging alternator.

[Vanagon Nut]

Do you suspect an issue with the blue wire or D+ circuit because you suspect the alternator is not charging the battery?

Did you measure voltage at alternator B+ terminal when engine is running?

What type of noise did you hear at fuse box area?

Might be #4

With the battery voltage so low, when trying to turn the starter, it might pull battery voltage so low that the load reduction relay is not able to reliable open thus makes a buzzing or rapid clicking noise. That said, it doesn't take much voltage to operate a typical automotive relay.


Neil.
_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA
(VW Gas I4)

1988 Westy DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[kamzcab86]

[E1]

The electronics do "go nuts" when the battery goes dead. Been there.

And as seen in Kammy's chart, 11 volts isn't enough to do anything (!). Your issues start here, start small and easy.

As Mark said, charge it fully and then give it a load test. First, the static (resting) charge should be 12.7 or close once the surface charge has bled off.

Any parts store can test this, or buy a multimeter and set it to 20 DCV.

A test is putting the multimeter on the battery and watching it like a hawk while someone cranks the engine. If it's 10 or less, after a full charge, it's probably junk. Static charge is a first step but cold cranking amps is all that really matters.

I'd still test the charge at the battery and on the alternator at idle, they should be within about 0.1 volt of each other. If not, your alternator cable may not be getting juice through and need replacement. Known battery killer, too.

Alternator and battery reading should never be below 13 volts at idle. I think they're designed to put out 13.5 to 14.5 but they're inconsistent from brand to brand in my experience.
_________________
1984 Westfailure/2.1 Digijet/5.43 Ring & Pinion/Peloquin/D-rated BFG KO2s
AI has spoken to further illiteracy, to steal, to cheat, and to replace humans

"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere." — Colin Chapman

[mikemtnbike]

I’m with E1 Keep it simple at first. Make sure your battery and alternator are in good working order and replace them as if needed. Then, check your grounds.
_________________
1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[rogertj]

Just tested the alternator like I was a hawk for a couple of minutes and it was reading 11.5, then it went from 11.5 v to 6 v when I turned any thing in the dash (lights, hazard lights, fan, etc) then it died... Battery is now at 11.65 v...
_________________
Roger
Had a Carbureted ABA after engoing the heck out of it now going for ABA 2.0 Jetta EFI ill put a garrett in to the tin can later or maybe go electric?
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

[DanHoug]

replace your brush/regulator set and you should be good to go! *maybe* need a new alt but i'd try the $20 solution first if the bearings are quiet.
_________________
-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com

[Vanagon Nut]

I'm still curious why the OP is, was, curious of the blue D+ wire.

e.g. is that wire, circuit, shorted out somewhere or otherwise compromised thus causing the alternator to put out low or inconsistent voltages?

Neil.
_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA
(VW Gas I4)

1988 Westy DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[rogertj]

I'm recharging one of my batteries right now at 4 amps to later test the cold cramping amps as you call it when I start the engine.

Funny thing is when my car is running and if I turn the headlights on it goes from 11.5 to 6 v ? Then it goes dead... Is this something to do with the dashboard? My non operating mechanical brain tells me that something is wrong with the wiring in the dash board area. Or maybe is just my Paranoia

Please excuse my continues questions as English is not my main language. I can manage it pretty good but not in mechanics precisely
_________________
Roger
Had a Carbureted ABA after engoing the heck out of it now going for ABA 2.0 Jetta EFI ill put a garrett in to the tin can later or maybe go electric?
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

[Wildthings]

It sounds to me like your alternator has not been charging and your battery is likely ruined from being kept at a discharged state for a long period of time. Buying a new battery would probable serve you well at this point.

If you have problems with your blue wire you either need to find and fix them or go to a one wire alternator that doesn't need an externally supplied excite current.

[E1]

Roger, I agree with WildThings about the battery being gone, and no battery should fall to 6 under any circumstances.

I do not think dash wiring is your issue. The alternator wiring could be but I also find that unlikely compared to a battery and/or weak alternator current.

If it were me, Dan's above advice is also worth following. If you can get a cheaper voltage regulator, for say $20 as he said, I'd maybe do that first and immediately check the alternator while running to make sure it's putting out 13.5 to 14.5. Then test to make sure all of that is getting through to the battery by testing there.

The only concern for buying a battery first is if charge isn't getting out, nor getting to the battery, you could kill a new battery quickly. Once you know the alternator's right, I think a new battery after that is the way to go.

Good Luck! And, your English is fine.
_________________
1984 Westfailure/2.1 Digijet/5.43 Ring & Pinion/Peloquin/D-rated BFG KO2s
AI has spoken to further illiteracy, to steal, to cheat, and to replace humans

"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere." — Colin Chapman

[rogertj]

So the results were the following.

I asked for my alternator warranty at autozone Tijuana Mexico because the alternator was a suspect it came without the metal fan, the pulley and the back transistor or filter (don't know the name) when I bought it in this past May.

Got my new alternator with everything included this time and battery was charged to 12.50 V it ran ok for one day I disconnected the battery cables to discard it was the clock or something uncharging it. Voltage running was at 12.66, then after I ran it it went to I think 14 V so I was all happy and sh*t BUT THEN...

The second day I ended up with 7.50 V When I arrived at home so I think I should have started with the battery from the beginning.

One Question to all of you experts out there: When you have this types of problems with battery or alternator is it usually that the dashboard operates weird?

By weird I mean it turns on and off like if it had a short or something, gauges don't work properly, gauges sometimes work ok but then they die.

Any help is greatly appreciated it.

Thanks for all the help above this post.
_________________
Roger
Had a Carbureted ABA after engoing the heck out of it now going for ABA 2.0 Jetta EFI ill put a garrett in to the tin can later or maybe go electric?
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0