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61 turnsignal switch
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RCJH77
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2022 9:44 pm    Post subject: Re: 61 turnsignal switch Reply with quote

Do you know what the amperage is on these relays? I’m seeing 5a and 10a options on Amazon. Want to make sure I’m getting the right ones. Thanks!

johnlorio wrote:
I know this is an old topic, but I just utilized the relays to get a three wire turn signal to work on my 61 (which needs an unobtanium 6 wire switch) and maintaining a 6 volt system (the trailer module solutions don't work on 6 volt). I though I'd add the contact names to save others the problems of sorting which contacts are used for each purpose.

I purchased two DPDT 6 volt relays from a local electronic parts store, along with their basses that they plug into. Each DPDT switch has 8 contacts. I dedicated one switch to the right signal/brake lights and the other one to the left turn signal brake lights.

The contacts labeled "coil", one goes to the turn signal switch (left or right) and one to ground. The turn signal switch is connected directly to the fuse box, not through the flasher as usual.

The contacts labeled "com" or "common" are the outputs, one to front turn signal and on to rear signal/brake light.

The contacts labeled "NO" or "Normally Open" are electrically open and get power when the coil is NOT engergized. One of these goes to the brake light wire - make sure it is on the same circuit as the "Com" contact you dedicated to the rear signal/brake light. The other "NO" input is left blank.

The two "NC" contacts are connected together and get power from the flasher. They will power and flash the front and rear turn signals when energized by the turn signal switch. The NO contacts (now the brake lights) are closed while the turn signals are flashing.

It helps to have a 6volt power supply and a continuity tester to identify and test the circuit you build.

Thanks to the forum I now have working turn signals and brake lights on my 61 .
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johnlorio
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2022 3:52 pm    Post subject: Re: 61 turnsignal switch Reply with quote

I know this is an old topic, but I just utilized the relays to get a three wire turn signal to work on my 61 (which needs an unobtanium 6 wire switch) and maintaining a 6 volt system (the trailer module solutions don't work on 6 volt). I though I'd add the contact names to save others the problems of sorting which contacts are used for each purpose.

I purchased two DPDT 6 volt relays from a local electronic parts store, along with their basses that they plug into. Each DPDT switch has 8 contacts. I dedicated one switch to the right signal/brake lights and the other one to the left turn signal brake lights.

The contacts labeled "coil", one goes to the turn signal switch (left or right) and one to ground. The turn signal switch is connected directly to the fuse box, not through the flasher as usual.

The contacts labeled "com" or "common" are the outputs, one to front turn signal and on to rear signal/brake light.

The contacts labeled "NO" or "Normally Open" are electrically open and get power when the coil is NOT engergized. One of these goes to the brake light wire - make sure it is on the same circuit as the "Com" contact you dedicated to the rear signal/brake light. The other "NO" input is left blank.

The two "NC" contacts are connected together and get power from the flasher. They will power and flash the front and rear turn signals when energized by the turn signal switch. The NO contacts (now the brake lights) are closed while the turn signals are flashing.

It helps to have a 6volt power supply and a continuity tester to identify and test the circuit you build.

Thanks to the forum I now have working turn signals and brake lights on my 61 .
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fabricator john
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
BOSCH RELAYS had em on the car 5 years not a prob 63 with snowflakes,,,,, fabricator john
had to stick a led in the flash indicator but thats it ,did it on a sandrail and used a 3way toggle worked there too
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shortride
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ivsamhell wrote:
scottyhoffo wrote:
I seem to recall a post a while back about this... I may be wrong but if
I remember correctly the answer was no, because the internals were a lot different - something like that.

I need a new switch for my '61 for the same reason. One of the PO had simply stuck a small bolt through the two broken pieces making for a very short turn signal lever. Quite ghetto indeed.



i dunno wounds pretty nice......
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


How come the speedometer isn't backward? Embarassed
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63ziggy
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

she has been converted to 12v. using standard 12 volt bulbs.

i have torn into all light housings etc and cleaned all contacts etc. as mentioned, I have tested all circuits etc. so i know leads etc are all good.

on the convertor, I hooked power on in side (5 wire) and used test bulb on outgoing (4 wire side).

was able to get ground be continuous through convertor as well as running light lead in and out. just nothing for blinker in and out.

will look at relay diagram.

made great progress last weekend sorting electrical, lights fusebox, headlights running lights etc. today's progress, slow crawl. oh well. nice challenge


thanks
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My guess is that at some point the car had non-original tail lights on there, as there's no way to make a snowflake style tail light work with three signals. You'll only need two wires per side (well 3 if you want to set up a dedicated ground wire in some way)

The above posts pretty much covered it all. You need one of the following

1. Correct 6-wire Switch or
2. Trailer logic converter or
3. Relays.

As for the logic relay not working for you... its been years since I tried it but I know I didn't have much luck, (which is why the 2nd time I tried it I didn't bother and used relays as shown in the diagram above.) I'm assuming this is a 12V vehicle, as those trailer adapters don't work on 6V. Are you using normal light bulbs or LED ones?

-Andy
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63ziggy
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought i would renew this posting due to questions.

I have a 1960 with snowflakes but a later what appears 66/67 turn signal assembly. (3 wire with additional hi-lo switch leads on blinker arm. i know blinker assembly works as tested multiple times. all the leads from to blinkers frt and rear work as well as running light leads and lights.also tested and confirmed brake lead to rear and power is there. running light lead has power as well.

prior owner/repairman added a additional line going to each tail light assembly. however wiring all pulled when I got project and no idea how hooked up.

basically have 3 leads to each tail light housing. brake, blinker and running (like later years)

i need to fix brake and blinker issue so would run through one filament of the dual filament bulb. and other filament would do running light. bulbs are good.

i bought 2 different trailer light conversions from Hopkins. one like just above. no luck getting even continuity/power through unit. i know the ground and running light leads on convertor work as they pass power through 1 side to other.

however, i would think the blinker leads would do the the same. i tried testing unit with power in and a light bulb on out side. several tests, no luck.

i installed the unit a couple times and tested. no luck.

any thoughts would be helpful
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fluxcap
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 3:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gunlau wrote:
Could someone help me with a trailer convertor.

I can not buy that item overhere.

I´m using a 3 wire turn signal switch and the oval rear light.

I think I need the trailer converter shown here above.

But how do i get it.
I live in Belgium near the Netherlands.


I think amazon should be able to ship it to you.
http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-48845-Tail-Light-Con...mp;sr=8-17
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gunbab
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could someone help me with a trailer convertor.

I can not buy that item overhere.

I´m using a 3 wire turn signal switch and the oval rear light.

I think I need the trailer converter shown here above.

But how do i get it.
I live in Belgium near the Netherlands.
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 6:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

E-flashers or not, you'll need a way to physically turn off the brake light while simultaneously connecting that bulb to the front bulb and to the turn signal relay all at the same time. That trailer adapter, as far as I've heard they don't work on 6V so you can't go that route. You'll need a switch that will perform that function (60-61 style) or a couple of relays to do it (and high current 6VDC DPDT relays may not be easy to come by either)
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71weekender
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

um well...shit. i guess i can do with out the flashers, i dont plan on using them.hhehehhe. so is ther away for this to work and deleting the flashers...
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have to have a means of turning off the brake light on the side your flashers are working, then connecting that bulb to the turn signals circuit.
I don't think you can get a trailer logic relay that'll work on 6V.

Also, there's the emergency flasher system - do you want that to work or not?

There's only two other ways to get this to work - relays or a 1960-61 turn signal switch. With the 60-61 turn switch you can keep your emergency flasher system intact. Your 6V black box, does it have the extra 54 and 54f terminals for the Bus application? You can use those for the emergency flashers if you have a 60-61 switch. (You'd also have to transplant your headlight "clicker" button from one turn switch to the other, which is possible, but may take some work) Once you have such a 6-wire switch, you'd follow the 1966 Bus wiring diagram:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Relays, well I'm not sure if/how you could incorporate a couple of DPDT relays and still keep your emergency flashers functional with the current black box. This diagram is for the no-e-flasher 62-65 setup when using snowflake style tail lights:

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71weekender
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

58 61 taillights tobwire up to a 66 no 12 coversion
i got both tail lights and both brake lights working.

no turns on rear when hooked up but have them when test light is
hook up to conector.

any idea.
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exactly what do you want to do here? Do you want to use old 56-61 "snowflake" single-bulb style tail lights with a 66 wiring harness? Or is this a 12V conversion question?
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71weekender
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

old post but good info, anyone ever done this to a 66 and know
the wiring.....car is still 6volt perfect wiring never cut with black box.
any help would be great.
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propguy
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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 6:56 pm    Post subject: 60-61 turnsignal Reply with quote

I have done this and it works great. I had a three wire that I bought by mistake in my younger days before I knew what I was doing so that was a no brainer since I have had a hard time finding a good 6 wire and the repop that I bought was DOA. It may not be period correct but my wife is happy that the lights work consistently. I bought my converter from a Red Rooster but also found them at the Uhaul center. Red Rooster was cheaper than Uhaul but it is an option if you can't find it anywhere else.
Thanks for the info for the solution.
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fluxcap
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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 4:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, glad you got it working!
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

heres the diagram i went off of aswell.my cars "crusty"so i had to grab a rag and wipe down the wires.its fairly easy.i knew nothing,studied the diagram,fluxcaps pics..and now like flux..it's a 3 min job
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bipolaroller
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fluxcap wrote:
Mine had 5 "input" wires and 4 "output" wires.

The inputs were:
Brake light - this is the wire coming OUT of the master cylinder brake switch
Left signal - this is the left signal wire coming off of the turn signal switch
Right signal - this is the right signal wire coming off of the turn signal switch
Running light - I cut this wire off of the convertor (there is no need to run your running lights through it.)
Ground - I also cut this wire off since the actual ground is created by the contact piece on the light mounting bracket.

The outputs were:
Left - this wire goes to the left rear bulb (duh)
Right - this wire goes to the right rear bulb (duh again)
ground - cut it off
running light - cut it off

Here's a closeup.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I didnt see any info on this.I seen a few who had to trial and error,but didnt mention Proper wiring at the socket.This should work for 61-65 that want snowflakes.On the passager side,with bulb pointing tward
you.your blinker wire(red in our example) will be on the outside/right post of the socket.The grey on the inside/left post
of the socket..Drivers side inside/right post will be blinker(red),and grey to the outside/left post.the black wire both sides is dead so just tuck it in.(could be used to run a rear accessory.i used it for a backup light)when your done you'll notice the lights wire in the same way.thats why red is outside on pass,but inside on the drivers side.pics on page 1 from fluxcap are a big help..study them.aslong as you have good ground,clean connections,i had to clean my front blink to get anything to work.so just that small thing matter'd.this is the proper wiring at the socket to put snowflakes on 61-65.if its not working start playing with bulb connections.my biggest mistake was,make sure to keep the battery good and charged or you'll get all sorts of odd results.i'll try to quote flux so both ends will be on one post
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fluxcap
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You probably have 56-59 switches
http://wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113953513A
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