Syncro fuel tank removal, reseal and SS strap install

[Zeitgeist 13]

I've heard this works when you upload Chrome

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-embed-fix/naolkcpnnlofnnghnmfegnfnflicjjgj
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH
'01 Weekender --> full camper
NEAT, no ICE.

[Wangta]

I HATE PHOTOBUCKET!

[CinnabarVan]

Hey guys,
I have done this job of removing the fuel tank for servicing, and all I can say is that it is much easier with the engine out to get in there and work.

If you try this with the engine in place, you will need to support the engine and constantly butt up into it trying to pry the tank loose.

You have to teater the heck out of the tank to get it to come down and come out. You need all the space available to get in there.

Plus once it is out, you may want to repaint the firewall like Hefty Smurf did.
You will need to prep this area and sand the heck out of it, so with the engine out, again you will have more room to do this.

Joel

[dcasali]

Thanks. All good suggestions. Will keep strong drink at hand.

Now, if I can squeeze the van into the garage, how high must I raise the rear to scoot the engine/tranny out? I won't have much more than a foot of space above the van due to interference with my door opener rail. In a pinch I guess I could pull the opener, but rather not.

[dkoesyncro]

Your going to cuss less and have the liberty to finesse/fight the tank if the trans and engine are out of the way.

Buy quality hardware and components. I used hylomar for an added sealant. Amazon is cheap for ear clamps. Use something like gates barricade green shield for fuel lines. Replace the submersible line in the tank.

Take care, it's a frustrating experience!

[dcasali]

My '86 WBX Syncro is leaking fuel when filled within a gallon of maximum. Fuel drips quite briskly on passenger side from somewhere above the shifter lever—not unfortunately from filler pipe or tube. Tank is going to have to come out.

Snow is 3 ft deep here (Idaho). I might be able to get the rig into my heated garage if I drop the tire pressure. If I can, my garage door opener sets a limit as to how high I can raise the vehicle. [I'm acutely aware of flammability issues inherent in this job.]

Bentley says this job can be done if I drop just the tranny.
1) is that correct, but the hard way? I.e. Should I plan to drop the engine too?
2) if I drop one or both, how high do I have to raise the vehicle to slide them out of the way?

After reviewing this and related threads can't say I'm really looking forward to this job, but I have more time than $$. Will do fuel lines, straps, sender and clutch at same time; clutch has at least 80K miles on it.

When done will drive south until I can see dirt once again

[peaceful warrior]

A bit late to this thread but I was curious as I have not read the Bentley manual yet. Does the engine need to be dropped to remove the tank?
I have the transmission out now as I am doing a clutch job, new CV joints, cooling system and shift linkage bushings.
Someone mentioned that the engine has to be removed but it seems the tank can be removed with the engine in place. Am I incorrect?
Thanks for this write up!
_________________
"Two things are infinite: The universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe." Albert Einstein
"Notchboy" says "Man up!"
"Tram" says " My bus is bigger than your bus."
66 13W Deluxe, 68 Westfalia, 87 Syncro.
TOOB Member #15
Brian

[insyncro]

[Bassyaks]

Dylan, if you vented to the intake aren't you worried about a vacuum in the tank?, It would be near impossible to collapse it, but it may cause running problems,

[MsTaboo]

[insyncro]

The venting of the tank can be greatly improved from stock and pictured in Bentley.
I use hardline for venting now to save a little space.
Depending upon what conversion the van has I try to plump it back into the intake and not vent to the atmosphere, but most don't care to spend the time.

[MsTaboo]

[rmcd]

Dylan did you use the locktite sealant on the sender rubber gaskets? Do u think this has helped keep ur installs leak free?

Thanks to everyone who chimed in. All good info.
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VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight=

[insyncro]

[insyncro]

A Syncro that I built, but had a resealed tank and new sender in it before coming to my shop is now leaking when the temps drop below 30 degrees.

I do not know if an old gasket or any sealant was used during the install, but have not heard back from the owner since having it looked at locally.

Up until this point I have not had a weep from any sender, no matter how crusty or brand new.

[syncrodoka]

The sending unit can be serviced with the tank in place. Remove the charcoal canister and remove the bolts for the fuel filter and pull it out of the way.

I have never dealt with the filler pipe without removing everything so I cannot help there.

Aviation form-a-gasket from your local auto parts place is resistant to gasoline. It has worked well to fix a minor fuel smell that I had on my truck, I used it on the outer sender seal without issue.

[rmcd]

Can the steel filler pipe be removed and replaced with the motor and syncro tank left in place? How is The pipe (#13 in picture) attached to the tank? Is it just a slip fitting into a rubber grommet?

I have a new sending unit that is leaking. It was installed when the motor was built. Anyone run into this before? Do the gaskets fail?

Thanks!

[dkoesyncro]

Your answers are on page 1 of this post, study the pics you'll be in good shape! Best of luck to you.

I feel like a broken record but......with all the dang farm bills pushing us into bio based fuels make sure your new lines are up to the task...and I mean dig. You may find your self talking to a German girl who really knows her fuel line tell you that yup that's fuel line but it won't support oxygenated or bio base. I made this $$ mistake and glad that i did. After all our vans do burn down too!

Check out the condition of your inter filter (screen) and submersible fuel line. Fas has this http://www.foreignautosupply.com/parts-accessories/39-syncro-in-tank-fitting/#.U1XDnlVdXAk

[VeeDubDaySpa]

Bump
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North American Hightop Installer/Distributor
Current stock (3)
Hot Water Systems
_______________________________________
90 Syncro NAHT Vanagon RHINO
86 "Syncro" Van DIAMOND
87 Syncro Hightop WestyCamper ROCKY (for sale soon)
79 bay window OLIVER

[VeeDubDaySpa]

Ok, I'm doing the same job smurf rocked out... I have a question regarding the set up of the fuel line rack. When I look at the Bentley, the T for the vent lines looks to be on the passenger side sending the non float valve, open line towards the fuel filler... In my set up I pulled, the T is on the passenger side with the open line going towards the charcoal canister, which sounds right to me?

Here is a photo of my rack I pulled:

Any help is greatly appreciated as I'm hoping to make Syncrofest!
_________________
North American Hightop Installer/Distributor
Current stock (3)
Hot Water Systems
_______________________________________
90 Syncro NAHT Vanagon RHINO
86 "Syncro" Van DIAMOND
87 Syncro Hightop WestyCamper ROCKY (for sale soon)
79 bay window OLIVER