Vanagon fuel rail fix

[Altoona]

[The Machinist]

[randywebb]

[Navy_Flyer]

"That circular piece on the end of the stock part is a plastic plug crimped on with a metal ring. Not exactly leak-proof, but I'm sure they sorted them out".

Not quite - look closer - there is an o-ring there - you can see it in cross-section if you look closely where the two pieces mate at top and bottom. Makes it virtually leak proof since the crimped on metal end piece keeps it all compressed/together.
_________________
1987 Westfalia, Automatic. EJ25 VANARU Conversion

[Altoona]

[randywebb]

Thanks for the X-section - I'm still wondering why VW made them that way...
_________________
1986 2.1L Westy 2wd Auto Trans.

[The Machinist]

[bluebus86]

I think the 914 and bay window metal rails are identical if that is any help in locating them. they are nice, no threaded parts to leak, the ends are barbed, but you need hose clamps too.


there has been no performance issues with these rails. you do not need to worry about the lack of extra volume of the 914 rails. there is huge volume already in the system with all the hoses and such. the volume issue is a non issue on the vanagon,

My vanagon has been running great with these 914 /baywindow fuel rails.

[morymob]

I used the metal ones of the Bay/FI, had plastic one crack and a dripdown onto ex pipe,dodged the bullit that time, NO more plastic.

[msinabottle]

I'm DEFINITELY re-doing Winston's fuel lines with PolyArmor metal fuel line. In my program of 'de-polymering' his fuel system, I'm pretty sure that I'll replace the old nylon fuel rails, although I do think Chris/10cent is correct to say that's it's not that severe a risk. I just don't want any risk.



Such Porsche 914 rails as I could find, new aftermarket, are as expensive as the two aftermarket options for Vanagons mentioned elsewhere in this thread--still for sale, in our classifieds and by Van Cafe.

It would be NICE to get metal fuel rails to which I could attach flared, screw on fittings from the metal fuel lines--Look, Ma, no clamps! But I haven't seen any. What I'd end up doing, as of now, is to metric bubble flare my new metal lines, then use short lengths of the best Gates or Goodyear rubber fuel lines with clamps on both ends. Not an ideal solution, but workable... They might have the advantage of dampening vibration.

I muse, and invite your thoughts...

Best!
_________________
'Winston,' '84 1.9 WBX Westy
Vanagon Poet Laureate: "I have suffered in
many ways, but never, never, never in silence."

[jashv]

Does anyone sell 914 rails ?

[bluebus86]

like the original poster, i used old Porsche 914 fuel rails that i just happened to have, all steel, can probably be bought used for cheap. these wont fail ever. painted them pretty orange, so they look nice. No need for fancy machined parts, save money!

[jashv]

For some reason yesterday I was all tied up in the math of the sizes I didn't pay attention to price. If you purchase two of the manifolds and 8 threaded to barb fittings you're looking at $95 Suddenly the van-cafe units have gotten more appealing Vanagon parts suck, why do we love these bricks on wheels so much.

[morymob]

I had a orig one crack at inj connector 75 mi from home and dripping on exh when i stopped, lucky. Local friend brought one off air cooled and i fitted it, need longer hoses to injrctors, replaced other one when i got home, no more old orig for me.

[debbiej]

I've been following this thread because I've noticed so many leaks around the nipples of the manifold. (now I know what it's called). I was going to order the aluminum ones, but my husband looked last weekend and determined they were not cracked or leaking, but that I had shoved the fuel line too far up, and the little flanges were interfering with a good seal. probably everyone else knows this, but thought I'd just say anyway.

[jashv]

If I'm not mistaken it's 7mm fuel line that connects between the rails and the injectors, right? That converts to .275 " or a tad over 1/4".

http://www.pneumadyne.com/input-ports-aluminum-manifolds-p-2579-l-en.html?language=en

Couldn't you buy two of these at say the 3/8 " NPT size ? That's .374 " if my math isn't to rusty. It's tapped in the end, you could plug in your gauge there if you wanted. I agree with whomever brought it up earlier in the thread, each connection represents a point of failure (I.E. a leak) but it may be an acceptable risk if you take care assembling the unit. If you look at the spec on this one it's 3000 psi hydraulic, temp range -10 to 200. And if you wanted to spend a little more you could go stainless.

I'm no expert, just a techy thinking things out, so thoughts?

[tencentlife]

[jashv]

oh yeah - when I replaced all my lines I used the ABA SS clamps that were NOT .10 cents a piece. It was most like 99% my fault of tightening one to tight that has probably cracked one of the pips on my "not a fuel rail" fuel rail (how about gas line thingy) Sorry - just making a joke man.

[vanagonjr]

[jashv]

tencentlife - why have I never seen your website before? I've seen go-westy's rebuilds, didn't know anyone else was doing it. What about all the electronics, do you have new mass air meters and what nots, or just the engine?