Should there be front sway bar endlink play?

[Jake de Villiers]

[Jake de Villiers]

[shizzon]

A friend with a later model vanagon (85?) installed an addco bar, and gave me his OEM bar (which is also 21 mm). The bushings were in much better shape than my original bar, but I'm considering ordering powerflex bushings to improve handling. I have a couple more questions though:

1. My friends bar has the straight endlinks, not the curved ones like my 83.5 vanagon had. Is it okay to use ones with the straight endlinks on my year?

2. Also, how do I tell whether I need the "early production" front bushings (http://www.t3technique.com/powerflex-bushings/early-production-front-anti-roll-bar-set.html) or "late" (http://www.t3technique.com/powerflex-bushings/front-anti-roll-bar-set.html). They look very similar in the pics

3. Out of the 3 types of bushings on the front sway bar (upper endlink, lower endlink, and "middle" bushings), which ones are the most important to replace in order to improve handing ?

I'm basically trying to decide which bar I want to use... my friends, or my own. I can see that it would be very easy for me to replace the lower endlink bushings and the middle bar bushings (as above), but it seems like the upper endlink bushings would be an absolute pain to replace. I don't even see how one can pull the endlinks off of the main bar, much less get them back on. I'm kind of leaning towards just replacing the easy bushings, but I'd be willing to consider paying a shop to put on the upper endlink bushings if it was a really big deal for the handling.

Any thoughts on this would be much appreciated!
Sean
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1989 Bostig Syncro Westy

[BoneMachine]

[PAUL IRISH]

I bought the aftermarket end links which are thicker and powerflex bushings. the endlinks have a OD of 12 mm and have way too much play in the bushings. could not get an answer why so I ordered new SS steel sleeves and had them bored out with a 12mm bit. I spot welded the stainless washer kn top to the endlink and put the sleeves and top bushing on today. Will get someone stronger than me to put the endling and new bushing on the swaybar next week. Wonder what to do about the sloppy fit in the radius arm, put in grease or what. on the oringinal the whole area was full of rust and corrision.

[danfromsyr]

the ones from the flaps I used didn't need to use the sleeves, they have a protrusion that fits into the steering arm and negated the need of a sleeve.
for the centers I ran a close drill thru them it really didn't take very much at all. and this isn't a precision suspension piece just want it tight not loose.
the swaybar pushes down and pulls up against these bushings..

Chris gets my $$ no problem for other parts. this weekend it was/is lugnuts for my Audi wheel upgrade.
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[dobryan]

[ragnarhairybreeks]

When you find a machinist that can accurately ream polyurethane then let us know

Drilling out bore is good enough, remember they fit over the steel spacing sleeve, then get squished when drop link attached and tightened.

cheers

alistair
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'86 7 passenger syncro, converted to westy pop top, project still in progress
'82 westy, diesel converted to gas in '94, now gone...
https://shufti.blog/
Old address still works...
http://shufti.wordpress.com

[BoneMachine]

[Jake de Villiers]

[seanjenn]

t3technique is having a sale this weekend too.
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1987 GL Sunroof
2.1 4 spd

[MidwestDrifter]

[danfromsyr]

on our family vans I just use this urethane swaybar end link kit from my local FLAPS ($10~)
it requires only a little fitment adjustment and well it's in stock and works just dandy.
I have other items I prefer to spend my $$ with Loogy for than these..

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[shizzon]

The cost of replacing the bushings, at least with powerflex material (t3technique.com), makes me wonder if it's not just worth it to buy a whole new sway bar?
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1989 Bostig Syncro Westy

[Vango Conversions]

you'll probably need a new spacer sleeve too. they usually get pretty rusty.

[AndyBees]

Scroll down to post # 543 in this link to see how I did the bushings on the bottom the sway bar link. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=276798&page=37

I later removed the entire sway bar to tackle the larger swar bar bushings. I did take photos but never posted them.
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'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI, two trips to Alaska, 2014 & 16. 1989 Tin-top unmolested.
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine, seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003. 1975 Bay hopeful.

[shizzon]

I assume the difficult one to remove is the upper bushing between the sway bar and the endlink? I assume the bottom two bushings just come out when you remove the bolt, right?

thanks!
sean
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1989 Bostig Syncro Westy

[AndyBees]

The bushing is worn and most likely hardened.

I replaced those bushings (with the complete kit). Replacement requires removal from the vehicle.

I placed the sway bar in a bench vise and wrestled the bushing off. It is easier to remove than to install the new one. It is doable with brute strength, persistance and basic tools. I used spray silicone lube to aid with installation.
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'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI, two trips to Alaska, 2014 & 16. 1989 Tin-top unmolested.
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine, seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003. 1975 Bay hopeful.

[shizzon]

Folks,

My endlink on my drivers side front swaybar is loose. I assume that there should not be play, correct? Is this just due to the bushings being shot? That's my guess.... I may be due for some new ones. ...See video below


Link

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1989 Bostig Syncro Westy