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Bus stroker motor advice based on parts accumulated: 94x?
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kell1968
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2013 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you going on this trip. My brother and I are planning on the same thing. We plan (hope) to do the whole Pan American highway. Would be cool to have a third. If we get tired of each other, well we all have our own vehicles... If we have a problem with one vehicle... Well we may have two more
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bugguy1967
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe the compression needs to be a tad lower with a single. Just making sure that you are aware of this.
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travelvw
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Thanks,
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sactojesse
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 1:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Bus stroker motor advice based on parts accumulated: 94x Reply with quote

KevinMc wrote:
sactojesse wrote:
KevinMc wrote:
I will not be convinced on dual carbs; I've tried it both ways, so I'm not interested in that argument Wink

Listen to the experts. I'm no expert, but your Luddite approach, i.e., irrational fear of dual carbs, is compromising your build. If you want all-around driveability, your best bet is with dual IDFs or DRLAs. You will bet better mpg as well.


This is my build, not theirs. Laughing I am not normal, so don't worry about me Wink. Interesting you know all about my fear of duals; I've run them more often than not, for many, many miles.

This will not be a street/strip racer. We will eventually be driving this rig to Alaska and back, often to the middle of nowhere out West, with lots of camping and offroading on a regular basis.

A single carb is somewhat restrictive, yes. It moves the power band lower, duals move it up. One carb means no linkage, half the potential for clogged jets and such, less than half the parts, and a super sweet sheathed cable setup, so no clogged or frozen accelerator cables. Driving rough trails for long periods of time, I have had zero flooding issues with a single center mount... just a clogged idle jet once after months of desert dust conditions. Its the only carb setup in 20k miles I've basically never had to screw with from sea level to 10k feet, cold, hot, doesn't matter: absolute reliability. This is of the utmost importance to me, not power.

My apologies. I stand corrected. I had thought your insistence on running a centermount IDF was based on ignorance, as is the case with the vast majority of similar threads I see. However, your logic makes sense to me once you explained it, particularly the part about extensive off-road usage. Please carry on with your "abnormal" build. Smile
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kevin, if there's one thing about you it's that you are not normal. Normal is boring. I have run duals on everything for 20 years but for what you do I really can see and appreciate that a single is a great choice. I personally like your abnormal build Laughing
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travelvw
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 7:31 am    Post subject: Re: Bus stroker motor advice based on parts accumulated: 94x Reply with quote

sactojesse wrote:
KevinMc wrote:
I will not be convinced on dual carbs; I've tried it both ways, so I'm not interested in that argument Wink

Listen to the experts. I'm no expert, but your Luddite approach, i.e., irrational fear of dual carbs, is compromising your build. If you want all-around driveability, your best bet is with dual IDFs or DRLAs. You will bet better mpg as well.


This is my build, not theirs. Laughing I am not normal, so don't worry about me Wink. Interesting you know all about my fear of duals; I've run them more often than not, for many, many miles.

This will not be a street/strip racer. We will eventually be driving this rig to Alaska and back, often to the middle of nowhere out West, with lots of camping and offroading on a regular basis.

A single carb is somewhat restrictive, yes. It moves the power band lower, duals move it up. One carb means no linkage, half the potential for clogged jets and such, less than half the parts, and a super sweet sheathed cable setup, so no clogged or frozen accelerator cables. Driving rough trails for long periods of time, I have had zero flooding issues with a single center mount... just a clogged idle jet once after months of desert dust conditions. Its the only carb setup in 20k miles I've basically never had to screw with from sea level to 10k feet, cold, hot, doesn't matter: absolute reliability. This is of the utmost importance to me, not power. The following setup is more than enough:

2180cc
*Fan shroud TBD (DTM/Thing)
*Single Weber 44 (32-34 venturi etc)
*DRD 40x35.5 dual spring heads cut 94mm
*CR TBD (8-9:1)
*CB solid shaft rockers stock ratio
*AA 92mm super thick walls
*4340 5.4" VW rods
*Aluminum case, cut 94mm, full flow
*4340 82mm crank
*Cam TBD (-286 adv, -250@50)
*CB forged flywheel, Kennedy stage 1

Appreciate all the good advice from everyone.

K
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sactojesse
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 9:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Bus stroker motor advice based on parts accumulated: 94x Reply with quote

KevinMc wrote:
I will not be convinced on dual carbs; I've tried it both ways, so I'm not interested in that argument Wink

Listen to the experts. I'm no expert, but your Luddite approach, i.e., irrational fear of dual carbs, is compromising your build. If you want all-around driveability, your best bet is with dual IDFs or DRLAs. You will bet better mpg as well.
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luckystiff
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

they do also offer chevy/buick journal'd but i think only in maybe 5.5, 5.6 or something like that. so yeah all longer choices.

oddly enough i ended up digging those up because CB was out of the unitechs when i was ordering parts. after dealing with them i wish i would have known that before i bought my crank from CB as i probably would have ordered my crank from them also. great folks to deal with, nice products for a reasonable price, and fast shipping. i ordered my rods on a friday and they were here the following monday....ken....
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

luckystiff wrote:
[email protected] wrote:
SCAT rods are outstanding, all the "no-name" rods try to achieve SCAT's level of quality, and rarely do. They are an excellent choice, for another $20 over the generic versions.

5.4" is the proper length for an 82mm crank and B pistons. You will NOT have a loss of low end with a "big" cam because of the stroke increase. One counters the other.

I'd go with dual 2bbls and an Engle 120, and 9:1 CR. Will run very well.


i deff don't want to make this seem argumentative but have you seen the Revmaster I Beams? my buddy was building a 1955 for another friend alongside building my 2021. i used revmasters he used scats and everybody that saw them liked the revmastersrods more and the scats needed a bit of work when it came balancing time and the revmasters were dead on out of the box. maybe i got lucky or maybe his were and unusual set for scats but i'd have to say for the price i put the revmasters right there with them. if you haven't seen them they are surely worth checking out...ken....

Ive take a look at those rods for a build before but the major limitation is they only list a 5.5 vw journal rod. To complement a wider range of combos, it would be nice if they offered 5.4 /5.5 vw and chevy journal versions. For the price and 4340 quality 125.00 shipped is a decent price.
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luckystiff
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
SCAT rods are outstanding, all the "no-name" rods try to achieve SCAT's level of quality, and rarely do. They are an excellent choice, for another $20 over the generic versions.

5.4" is the proper length for an 82mm crank and B pistons. You will NOT have a loss of low end with a "big" cam because of the stroke increase. One counters the other.

I'd go with dual 2bbls and an Engle 120, and 9:1 CR. Will run very well.


i deff don't want to make this seem argumentative but have you seen the Revmaster I Beams? my buddy was building a 1955 for another friend alongside building my 2021. i used revmasters he used scats and everybody that saw them liked the revmasters more and the scats needed a bit of work when it came balancing time and the revmasters were dead on out of the box. maybe i got lucky or maybe his were and unusual set for scats but i'd have to say for the price i put the revmasters right there with them. if you haven't seen them they are surely worth checking out...ken....
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travelvw
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks again, great info. I will probably go with a single 44 and drop the venturi.

These are the specs on the cam I was most happy with:
Adv. Duration 274°
Dur. @ .050" 222°
Lift @ cam .359"
Lift w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms .394"

K
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With a single IDF do not go bigger than 286 adv duration, which is the Engle W110, or SCAT C35. You need a venturi in the 32-34mm range. The 40 IDF comes with a 28, and the 44 comes with a 36. So in either case you need to make a carb change to optimize everything.
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travelvw
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, sounds like I've already got my rods. Great!

That's kinda what I was thinking about cam choice: what appears "bad" on a small engine, may work great on a larger engine... something I am not familiar with. That said, a 120 looks to be a little on the mid-to high, even in a big engine... also not really what I'm looking for. Might work better with dual carbs, but I'm running a single Weber IDF... so, what size? 44, 48? I am not running duals, even if everyone else in the world would Smile.

C35 was a typo... I actually have the C45, which is not at all where I want to be on this build.

I will consider upping the CR. Curious as to what a typical ratio is with 82 and B's on a new case, no flycut?

I will likely have the case clearanced locally for an 82mm crank. Thanks,

K
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SCAT rods are outstanding, all the "no-name" rods try to achieve SCAT's level of quality, and rarely do. They are an excellent choice, for another $20 over the generic versions.

5.4" is the proper length for an 82mm crank and B pistons. You will NOT have a loss of low end with a "big" cam because of the stroke increase. One counters the other.

I'd go with dual 2bbls and an Engle 120, and 9:1 CR. Will run very well.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

like the guy in the other thread about cam choice don't limit that stroker based on gas thats $0.20 cheaper per gallon. as i said in that thread you're talking $2-3 more per fill up for the ability to bump that cr in the 9:1+ range and use that engine like it can be. i know theres plenty of folks that have and do build low cr strokers. to each their own. theres also guy that build small HIGH compression engines putting out buttloads of power.

the scat c35 is pretty similar is specs to a engle 110. if the objective is to use as much of what you have it may fit into that low cr build range you are talking.

is the case stroker clearanced? if not you'll probably either want to send it to someone to be done so or i've heard several say that 82mm with buick journals and a nice set of H beams puts you in the by hand at home clearance range. cheaper to send the case out for stroker clearancing though...ken....
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 5:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you John, I will grab a set of thick 92 B's from you (94x94 cut), and an 82 stroke crank: 2180 it is! Perfect. I'm guessing this takes stock length rods 5.4" for a mild compression motor?...will the 4340 Scat I-beam set I have be a good choice? Does 8:1 compression sound about right to everyone for running cheap gas? My last few engine builds have been 7.8- 8.2:1, and they ran fine on 87. That said, the engine size was much smaller. I don't want to be creating excessive heat.

Any more info on cam choice... particularly valve lift?... what numbers qualify as "low lift", and how does that effect things?

Mark, unlike most folks, I don't need the power band up high. I want it to kick in right away and fade out by 4k or so. I do very limited interstate driving, especially in traffic. Again, not looking to limit myself, but put the power band in the right place for me: very low range to mid-high at most.

K
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I built a motor for a guys SC ,it tends to see some rpm. as does his bus. do not cut your self off at the knees, it's not any cheeper but it can be disastorious.remember your foot governs the motor.use what you need when you need it. if you need it and dont have it,better hope that big truck has real good brakes&a light load, cause he's fixen to squash the crap out of you.......or pull away from him like he is in reverse.the choice is yours. build it right & it will last.
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Piston-Cylinder-Set-92mm-x-82mm-Machine-In-p/vw9200t1s.htm

are 94mm head, and 90.5/92mm case

while

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Piston-Cylinder-Set-92mm-x-82mm-Machine-In-p/vw9200t1ms.htm

fit a 94mm Case and head machining bore.
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't plan on needing much power past 3500 rpm... probably won't even rev past 4k.

The j's I have look to measure about 1 3/8". Haven't chose the header/muffler yet. Sounds like I'm going to have to move up in size Confused . I don't need anything fancy, as I'll have to customize for clearance and will probably beat it on rocks anyhow.

It looks like 82mm is the "easy" B piston builld... I originally thought it was 78mm.

92mm thick B's are preferred if it fits my heads. I'm guessing they are 90.5mm case, 94mm head?

Thanks for the cam duration advice. Why ratio rockers? I thought they directly relate to the cam and lift and were a "patch" instead of changing out the cam?

K
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thick wall 92's and 82 stroke,.040" deck(piston to head clearance) low lift cam around [email protected] & 1.25 ~1.33 ratio rockers. add the extra oil galy&slot the lifter bores.deburr the lobe edges.
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