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KevinCompton Samba Member

Joined: September 08, 2003 Posts: 344 Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2003 12:34 pm Post subject: |
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Well you guys never let me down. Thanks for shaking me out of my stupor. Sorry guys. No I won't do it your right it does look gay. I looked more closely at a bus that had them and I really don't like it.
but in my defense I would never drill holes do it...it already has the holes for it.
Anyways no scoops for me, except icecream. |
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NorCalWeekender Samba Member

Joined: April 13, 2000 Posts: 6541 Location: East Bay, CA
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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2003 6:18 am Post subject: |
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To respond to Lind, I'd never heard of an exhaust temp gauge! That would definitely be an interesting way to check your temps. I never figured exhaust temps changed that dramatically when you're driving.
-Taylor _________________ 9th Owner of a 1971 Tintop Westy
"Eventually, we sold to a guy for $500 who towed it away to live in it in his parents' driveway. We didn't think it would ever avoid the junk heap on that day." -The 3rd Owner, 1995 |
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j.pickens Samba Member

Joined: December 03, 2002 Posts: 9831 Location: Exit 7, New Jersey
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2003 8:46 pm Post subject: |
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| tarzan271 wrote: |
I calibrate test equipment for a living and the IR temp guns are usually accurate to within 10 degF. To test this, shoot it into your mouth and you will probably not read close to 98 deg. Just a bit of info.
They are good for a ballpark idea of problem areas. An actual oil or cylinder head temp gauge is much more cheap, accurate, and reliable |
I've tested the IR gauge against a Gas Chromatograph oven, calibrated to NIST standards +- 0.2 deg. C. and the gauge consistently measures +- 1 Deg. C or approx. 2 Deg. F of the actual temp. This is consistent with the manufacturer's spec. for the gun.
I agree that a permanently mounted temp. gauge is superior, but if you don't have one, or want to compare temperatures from several buses at the same time, the IR gauge can't be beat! _________________ Founder and Chairman Emeritus, ECMSAS
BBX BBXII and BBXXI Long Distance Award Winner
| BeaterBarndoor wrote: |
i wish more people would actually drive their vws rather than just talking about what they have in the garage. |
| Red Fau Veh wrote: |
If you've seen one sunroof swivel seat kombi, you've seen them all!  |
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j.pickens Samba Member

Joined: December 03, 2002 Posts: 9831 Location: Exit 7, New Jersey
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2003 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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| volksaddict wrote: |
J Pickens, when you check your temp with that ir magic wand, what are you checking? oil temp, head temp, other? I mean, if you aim it at the cooling tin are you getting head temp or what? Just curious. |
I aim the IR gun at the engine block on either side of the crank pulley.
First I aim just left of the oil dipstick at the block, and then switch to the other side in the "corner" below the distributor. When things are working right, the temp runs from 195 to 205 F. We had three buses running from Philly/DC down to Bulli Brigade, and we were all within 5 degrees of each other.
I use this as a baseline temp, and if I see anything higher, I'll know something is wrong. But its real nice when you have some sort of mechanical difficulties to be able to check this real quick and rule out any cooling problems.
I chose the test point I just mentioned because it is the largest area of solid engine block available. If anyone has suggestions for other places to standardize on, I'm open to suggestion.
I bought mine at a electrical supply house for $99. I've seen them for as little as $69 since then.
Here's one like mine:
http://www.terrauniversal.com/products/measuring/gunstyleinfred.shtml _________________ Founder and Chairman Emeritus, ECMSAS
BBX BBXII and BBXXI Long Distance Award Winner
| BeaterBarndoor wrote: |
i wish more people would actually drive their vws rather than just talking about what they have in the garage. |
| Red Fau Veh wrote: |
If you've seen one sunroof swivel seat kombi, you've seen them all!  |
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Lind Samba Member

Joined: November 06, 2000 Posts: 10266 Location: idaho
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2003 10:43 am Post subject: |
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| this is a little off subject, but I think worthy of mention as long as people are talking about IR temp gauges and the such. has anybody put an exhaust temperature gauge in a VW? I drove a diesel pickup truck last summer that had one and it was incredibly responsive. as soon as you put the engine under a load, ther temperature would shoot up. with a little practice I was able to drive quite a bit more effeciently and keep the exhaust temperature down. things like oil temperature and head temperature start with heat from combustion which can easily be measured with an exhuast temperature gauge. I am going to put one on my '61 bus next spring. |
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tarzan271 Samba Member

Joined: October 20, 2003 Posts: 336 Location: Santa Rosa, CA
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2003 10:24 am Post subject: |
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NorCalRiviera wrote:
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| Hey Pickens, what did you pay for your IR gauge and where did you get it? |
I calibrate test equipment for a living and the IR temp guns are usually accurate to within 10 degF. To test this, shoot it into your mouth and you will probably not read close to 98 deg. Just a bit of info.
They are good for a ballpark idea of problem areas. An actual oil or cylinder head temp gauge is much more cheap, accurate, and reliable _________________ ~Tarzan
1964 Deluxe Bus - Sold |
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pyrOman Fire Master

Joined: July 21, 2003 Posts: 12569 Location: Over 2002 posts deleted!
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2003 10:16 am Post subject: |
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[quote="so-23]finally a thread where everyone can talk about how much non-stock vw modifications SUCK!
i took the side scoops that came on my bus off and smashed them with a hammer so nobody would find them in the garbage and drill their bus for them.[/quote]
That's right! It's a good thing you came to the right place and ask what to do with your bus. WE are THE authority on what you should do with your bus. Unless we approve of it you are absolutely forbiden to do anything to your bus.
WE know. If you don't believe US, just ask US, WE'll tell you!
 _________________ Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise. |
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Eaallred Samba Member

Joined: May 18, 2003 Posts: 5756 Location: West Valley City, Utah
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2003 9:30 am Post subject: |
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It seems like it would be easy enough to utilize Nates clamp idea to secure the fiberglass/plastic scoops to the bus. Wouldn't it? _________________ Eric Allred
You have to remember something: Everybody pities the weak; Jealousy you have to earn. |
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NorCalWeekender Samba Member

Joined: April 13, 2000 Posts: 6541 Location: East Bay, CA
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2003 9:23 am Post subject: |
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| j.pickens wrote: |
| I personally just bought a IR temperature gauge with a laser sight, and use that to monitor engine heat. It really helps when you know for sure what your temperature is. |
Hey Pickens, what did you pay for your IR gauge and where did you get it?
As for the scoop deal, it's really your bus and do what you want. If you really want scoops, go for Nate's and don't drill your bus. If it's already got the holes...I've had buses like that...just slap a set of fiberglass ones on.
-Taylor _________________ 9th Owner of a 1971 Tintop Westy
"Eventually, we sold to a guy for $500 who towed it away to live in it in his parents' driveway. We didn't think it would ever avoid the junk heap on that day." -The 3rd Owner, 1995 |
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DanM Samba Member

Joined: June 07, 2002 Posts: 1387 Location: Falls Church, VA
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2003 8:40 am Post subject: |
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| volksaddict wrote: |
| I bet those 44's on a 2 litre suck half as much as the whole cooling system on a 36 horse! |
finally a thread where everyone can talk about how much non-stock vw modifications SUCK!
i took the side scoops that came on my bus off and smashed them with a hammer so nobody would find them in the garbage and drill their bus for them. |
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Eaallred Samba Member

Joined: May 18, 2003 Posts: 5756 Location: West Valley City, Utah
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2003 8:22 am Post subject: |
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Removing the rear apron will recirculate the hot air. Propping open the rear engine lid will also recirculate the hot air. Both not a good thing.
If you are running the 'sled' tin that connects the engine case to the heaterbox, you can get away with removing the front tin that straddles where the engine and trans meet. If you have a doghouse cooler, stab a dryer hose on the end of the outlet and route it so it wont recirculate back into the fan. Been running my bus like this for a while now. I can't get the engine to over heat, no matter how hard I try. Flooring it up a canyon while it's 100+ degrees, and it doesn't miss a beat. _________________ Eric Allred
You have to remember something: Everybody pities the weak; Jealousy you have to earn. |
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volksaddict Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2003 Posts: 1759
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2003 6:32 am Post subject: |
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Interesting topic. I've heard people say the scoops don't help and even hinder before. Yes, many busses do have the holes from scoops added by po's. Personally, I don't like the look but to each his own. I'd rather weld the little holes in than patch the whole vent section from the po who hacked the whole area out, another common modification. I have 1 old panel, the po cut out the battery box on the drivers side and bent it down like a scoop, looks like it sucked up mud from the rear wheel very well. The carb intake volume is something to ponder too, I bet those 44's on a 2 litre suck half as much as the whole cooling system on a 36 horse! What about removing the engine cover or apron? I've heard pro and con there too- more air - disturbs the flow to the fan, which is it?
J Pickens, when you check your temp with that ir magic wand, what are you checking? oil temp, head temp, other? I mean, if you aim it at the cooling tin are you getting head temp or what? Just curious. |
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Billet_Bus Samba Member

Joined: August 17, 2003 Posts: 347
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2003 3:12 am Post subject: |
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plus the carbs havto compete with the fan for air. Dual 44s on a 2 liter suck alot more air then a stock carb im sure. Thats what im running so i am making an inlet that resides under my bus as the main intake for the fan.
Plus i probably wont run a rear apron, its to hard to fit a turbo in there with it  |
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23window Samba Member

Joined: November 25, 2001 Posts: 838
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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 9:47 pm Post subject: |
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| Eaallred wrote: |
| Put a vacuum gauge in the engine bay....... |
Damn, Eaallred...blinding me with science. |
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Hella Bro Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2002 Posts: 1143
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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 9:06 pm Post subject: |
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| You know what's funny is that alot of buses are driving around with little holes drilled around the vent area from pre-existing scoops. 3 of my buses have these tiny drill holes holes. How about yours? |
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Traver Samba Member

Joined: October 03, 2002 Posts: 354 Location: Portland, Oregon
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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 8:21 pm Post subject: |
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| Eric, thankyou for the well thought out post. I hadn't considered the fact that most people (including myself) are running a bigger motor than was intended to go in a split bus. My bus is a 1600 dual port, but I don't have a temp gauge so I don't know how hot it is getting. However, I do have a pretty good idea that it's not running too hot because it doesn't lose oil pressure after long periods of driving. Also, I can tell when I go to check the oil after driving for hours I can still hold on to the dipstick! |
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Eaallred Samba Member

Joined: May 18, 2003 Posts: 5756 Location: West Valley City, Utah
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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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Put a vacuum gauge in the engine bay.
You'll see the stock louvers on the side of a bus do not provide enough airflow for a DP 1600 with doghouse shroud. It gets progressivley worse with larger engines. Any sign of vacuum in the engine bay, shows there is a restriction, ultimatly on the cooling fan and engine. Can you say "Cavitation"? That's what a fan does when the restiction of airflow causes the air to spin with the fan, rather than get pulled through it. On the highway, the fan pulls in the neighborhood of around 1200 CFM. A 1600 engine spinning away at 4000 rpm is taking over 800 CFM more. If you measure the opening area of the stock louvers on a split bus, it comes to IIRC, about 100 square inches. Someone in the heating and air conditioning business had a chart that showed how many square inches of opening was needed for a certain CFM. The figure of 1300 CFM needed more surface area than a sheet of paper (about 100 sq. in).
The fan and engine can only pull so much air through a restriction. Look at the Beetle for a great example. The stock louvers under the rear windows provided enough air for the stock SP engine. As soon as the doghouse shroud came into play, VW added two more sets of louvers on the rear decklid. After a couple years, they decided more louvers were needed (less restriction) so they put in two more sets of louvers. By the time VW was done, they also put ANOTHER set behind the license plate that opened thermostatically. It's this last set of louvers that I find especially cool. Keep in mind, this was for a stock 1600DP with a doghouse shroud.
VW only installed (up to) 1500 SP motors into the split window bus. Bay window buses have much larger air intakes, and they are also somewhat 'scooped' for better airflow on the highway. VW knew the only way to get the sufficient amount of air into the engine bay, without rather large ugly louvers was to scoop them somewhat, to in a sense, use 'ram-air' principles.
Now i'm not saying I think scoops look good or bad, but they do work, plain and simple. A SP 1500 with non-doghouse cooling was the limit for efficiency for the split bus. Have a bus that runs nice and cool while driving around in traffic, but runs hotter on the highway at 65mph? This is why. _________________ Eric Allred
You have to remember something: Everybody pities the weak; Jealousy you have to earn. |
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SHSC Samba Member

Joined: February 02, 2001 Posts: 1785 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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Besides air, they also pull in other stuff. I bought a bus from a smoker and inside the engine compartment were tons of cigs in the corner. _________________ DKB |
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Nate M. Samba Member

Joined: August 11, 2003 Posts: 1306 Location: Anacortes, WA U.S.A.
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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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I made some. The info is on my site here:
http://www.aircooledtech.com/custom_scoops/
I've never done any tests while sitting in traffic, but I have never over heated just sitting, so. . . I know that they work while the bus is in motion and net around a 15F-20F drop in temps across the board. In the summer months, I use them. When it gets cold, I remove them. Pretty painless. If you like 'em, run 'em. To hell with what other's say!! _________________ Regards,
Nate M.
Squarsche build
Heavy Metal Affliction feature
For heaven's sake, put a type4 and a Porsche 5-speed in there. . . It's the right thing to do!! |
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crukab Samba Chef

Joined: December 13, 2002 Posts: 6132 Location: Vermont
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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 6:33 pm Post subject: Re: Side scoops |
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[quote="KevinCompton" but I want real metal repros.[/quote]
Repros. of WHAT ???AHH to be young again.
Kevin, mostly what these guys are saying is-DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN YOUR BUS!!! yes scoops help, in highway driving, not in town traffic, if your bus needed them , they would have come with them on it.
I have a set of white plastic scoops that came with a box of J.C.Whitney crap from my father-in-law, been setting there for a couple years,don't know what to do with them, guess if I lived in the city they would make good pooper scoopers...........  _________________ Tom
My Pops:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604100&highlight=
I know you will always be with me, rest in peace with no more pain. 8/13/14.....
In the yard right now:
'51 Dodge 5 window truck
'65 Bug
'66 Singlecab
'82 Rabbit Truck Diesel from CALI
'86 Doublecab W/T
'91 Vanagon carat/wolfsbrg.Tiico
'88 Dodge Ram pickup
'11 Jetta Wagon |
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