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Official "Link Pin" lowering topic
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krazkayaker
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Caslor....am a noob at this stuff but would assume that whoever you are ordering from should be able to help you out. Try calling CIP...they have great customer service ( you can even order from them too!!!) I am in Canada and thier website is http://www.cip1.ca/ . They also have a site from the US. Try them both...it would be interesting to see where you get the better shipping rate/ dollar exchange.
Good luck and sorry I can't help more.
Cheers from Canada!
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caslor
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have send them 3-4 emails for this subject.. but no answer Sad
it is dificult to call them as my english is not my mother language.

i have order lot of things from cip..
i order from the american site but finaly they send it to me from canada (strange Smile )

my last order was about 600 euros and had to pay in custom service 300euros more to import them Sad Sad


thanks i will try again with email..thanks
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sciclunam
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 12:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guys.

I have read all this thread and couldn't find which are the best shocks for a lowered front?

Mine has been lowered only a couple of inches with SAWs but the ride is awful.... I assume the reason is because the stock height shocks are being used. So I have decided to but shorter ones but I am confused which are best.... gas or oil!

I am afraid gas will make the ride stiffer... but John Muir's manual suggests gas!

What shocks do you guys use?
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cagstorm
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 6:22 pm    Post subject: Rake Reply with quote

Hello all,

I am a newby at bugs. I had a '70 as my first car 13 yrs. ago. I did nothing to it but regular maintainance. I am about to buy a 67 and was wondering what the best CHEAPEST way to put a rake on it would be. (Please dont tell me to take my garden rake and place it on the bonnett. I have already thought of that... LOL) Is it best to keep the rear end at stock height? Anybody have any pictures of a bug with rake. I am not looking to go too severe with the rake but would like to have a little bit. I have no idea where to start with this. Would just using drop spindles be enough? I want to stick with stock size rims. Also when you fellas do your front end work, do you have to align it? if yes, do you do it yourself or have it done on a fancy computer and pay the bucks to have it done?
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ScrapJunkie
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheapest way to get a rake:
Raise the rear end.
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bipolaroller
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:28 pm    Post subject: another new guy Reply with quote

hey guys another "noob".Ive been rollin in vw since i was a kid,but ive never lower'd one.i get the rear end part,and think i'll go like 2 spline.I have a 63 with a stock front end.how can i lower the front if its not an adjustable?my "thing" had an adjustable,so i know how that all works.but this just has like a allen head set screw and nut in the center??is that what i fool with to lower it??any help would be great..i read thru the thread,and i didnt see anything really on non adjust...i think
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Hiramhaus
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 12:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SO not to go off subject or anyting are link pin front ends less desireable by any driving aspect, if propertly maintained? Is there a reason to get new trailing arms and ball joint front end? I have given alot of thought to how to do that, but now I am thinking about why? Should a guy just stick with his 64 link pin and lower with that?

Mike
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ScrapJunkie
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 10:34 am    Post subject: Re: another new guy Reply with quote

bipolaroller wrote:
hey guys another "noob".Ive been rollin in vw since i was a kid,but ive never lower'd one.i get the rear end part,and think i'll go like 2 spline.I have a 63 with a stock front end.how can i lower the front if its not an adjustable?my "thing" had an adjustable,so i know how that all works.but this just has like a allen head set screw and nut in the center??is that what i fool with to lower it??any help would be great..i read thru the thread,and i didnt see anything really on non adjust...i think


You cannot adjust it if it doesn't have adjusters. Those allen head bolts, and the locknuts are just to keep the torsion bars in check.
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ScrapJunkie
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

splittyshorty wrote:
SO not to go off subject or anyting are link pin front ends less desireable by any driving aspect, if propertly maintained? Is there a reason to get new trailing arms and ball joint front end? I have given alot of thought to how to do that, but now I am thinking about why? Should a guy just stick with his 64 link pin and lower with that?

Mike


You can't swap a balljoint into a linkpin car without massive work. If the car is already balljoint, then someone either swapped pans, or changed the framehead. You have to stick with linkpin if it's the original pan.

There's nothing wrong with linkpin beams, the ride is smooth enough, and personally, I think the ride is much smoother on a lowered early bug, than a late one lowered the same way.
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bipolaroller
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 10:43 am    Post subject: Re: another new guy Reply with quote

thanks.someone told me it would let tention off like a torsion bar would on say an import,thus lowering it...if that set screw was moved forward,could the torsion pack inside rotate which should lower it and keep the same handling as stock hieght?
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ScrapJunkie
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No. Taking that screw out would be letting the torsion bars free, then all the weight of the car would be on the shocks...Yes, it would lower it, until the shocks bottom out, then you blow or break the shocks, then it turns into a nasty gooey mess on the road.
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Hiramhaus
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Germanpride wrote:
splittyshorty wrote:
SO not to go off subject or anyting are link pin front ends less desireable by any driving aspect, if propertly maintained? Is there a reason to get new trailing arms and ball joint front end? I have given alot of thought to how to do that, but now I am thinking about why? Should a guy just stick with his 64 link pin and lower with that?

Mike


You can't swap a balljoint into a linkpin car without massive work. If the car is already balljoint, then someone either swapped pans, or changed the framehead. You have to stick with linkpin if it's the original pan.

There's nothing wrong with linkpin beams, the ride is smooth enough, and personally, I think the ride is much smoother on a lowered early bug, than a late one lowered the same way.


This is on a type 2, I have now resolved the problem - I'll stick with what I have - since
a) it works now
b) I think the older design factor makes it cooler


by the way I am talking about the bus on my avitar - or the link below - it seemed to be difficult to replace somthing that works anyhow.

thanks so much


http://www.therubyelephant.com/bus.html
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ScrapJunkie
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually...in that aspect.. 68-69 Bay window beams will bolt right in..although unless you want a high front end, you'll have to get spindles or adjusters to get it back down to "stock" height.
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Hiramhaus
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was wondering is the ride improved with a ball joint front, also really want to go lower, which if I went to 68-69 beams I would go up then down. Now current thread thory states that pins will feel smoother lower, BJ bind up. My current plan is to get dropped spindles and then later an ajustable beam, but keep the king pins, since they are original. The bus is missing 42 some squre feet of metal which I believe has raised me up a bit, so more up would be bad, in the end I would like to dial in my suspension height at will. If I could have pins and drums low, that would be cool
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hemifalcon
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_search.php?search_author=hemifalcon

The link above will take you to the picture gallery where my '62 Sedan is pictured. I have the CB spindles on it, and a 2" narrowed and adjustable front end form Ron Lummus on the front. This is pretty damn low. With a driver, passenger, interior, fuel in the tank, and all the other parts, it's gonna be really low. Really, I think it'll be lower than I want it. You can see by the perspective shots with the paint can, how low the front apron is. Hopefully, when I put the engine in, the weight transfer will affect the front height and bring it up a little bit. Otherwise, I may have to go back to a non-adjustable beam, the lowered spindles are the heat since I don't lose any ride height in the suspension travel. Has anyone else done the same with an adjustable front end, with the spindles? I think Lummus may have put the adjusters on so low thinking that I wasn't gonna run the spindles. Believe it or not, as it it sits, this is as high as it will sit with the Michelin X 135SR15 tires on it... Look out speedbumps!!! :-(
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Stinde
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Does anyone have this kind of setup?Stock Link pin front , type-1 -65. 4.5" brms whit 29 ET and cb dropped spindles? And stock wide front and no other drop systems like sway a way adjusters?
What is widest tires what will fit inside fenders? Will 145/65 fit or even wider?

Thanks Rolling Eyes
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krazkayaker
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK so...I am temporarily trying to put in an old school select a drop beam in my 64. I got this thing way back and am planning on lowering the original beam with proper adjustors and narrow it a bit while I'm at it. While I save up the cash to get the parts and a good welder to do it for me I thought I would put this in to get her on the road.

However I bought this thing so far back I can't remember the order the nuts and spacers go on. Help!
Also wondering if that bottom nut should be tacked to the threaded rod. Would hate to lose it during a ride. It also seems that the lower horizontal bolt ( the 1' one) is threaded. I assume that all I do to adjust the ride height is turn the bottom nut?
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ScrapJunkie
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hemifalcon wrote:


[img]https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/295425.jpg
[/img]

The link above will take you to the picture gallery where my '62 Sedan is pictured. I have the CB spindles on it, and a 2" narrowed and adjustable front end form Ron Lummus on the front. This is pretty damn low. With a driver, passenger, interior, fuel in the tank, and all the other parts, it's gonna be really low. Really, I think it'll be lower than I want it. You can see by the perspective shots with the paint can, how low the front apron is. Hopefully, when I put the engine in, the weight transfer will affect the front height and bring it up a little bit. Otherwise, I may have to go back to a non-adjustable beam, the lowered spindles are the heat since I don't lose any ride height in the suspension travel. Has anyone else done the same with an adjustable front end, with the spindles? I think Lummus may have put the adjusters on so low thinking that I wasn't gonna run the spindles. Believe it or not, as it it sits, this is as high as it will sit with the Michelin X 135SR15 tires on it... Look out speedbumps!!! Sad


That's not that low...sorry.
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hemifalcon
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Germanpride, it's not that low? Don't be sorry, I'm just saying that it doesn't have any weight on the front end yet, and I could just barely roll a soda can under the front of it. That is as HIGH as the adjusters let me place it. IT's got the adjusters in and the CB spindles, and this is as high as a I get? It's lower than I think I want it. I guess it may also be hard to tell since I dont' have the front fenders or the bumpers on. Sure, there are lower ones that sit on the ground, but I want to drive mine without hitting the road on every bump!!! Oh well, looks like I Might be stuck with this!
:?
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makinbakin
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Germanpride wrote:
No. Taking that screw out would be letting the torsion bars free, then all the weight of the car would be on the shocks...Yes, it would lower it, until the shocks bottom out, then you blow or break the shocks, then it turns into a nasty gooey mess on the road.


sorry, but thats not true. there is a center block that holds the torsions, the center grub screw keeps the torsions from moving side to side. Wink
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