Raoul the 65 singlecab

[70bus]

Hey BarryL, the weeping seems to have stopped

But it could also be due to the box being drained. We’ll see when I refill it in a day or two. Brake m/c still has a drip.

I could remove and tape, but I am not a fan of Teflon tape bits clogging brake ports. Not sure if more brake paste would help.

Thanks to Tony I was able to put the reserve tap assembly together. I don’t have a welder so used a big sheet metal screw; I’ll add another to keep it from twisting. I suppose I could also use body epoxy for belts N suspenders.

For now I used the factory clamp from my Deluxe reserve bracket, but I noticed the side mirror clamp is nearly the same; I’ll try one of those so I can keep the VW Deluxe tap intact for the next person.

It isn’t perfect; not only is the tank opening a bit out of place, so is the hole for the cable. This makes the cable have an angle relative to the reserve arm. Sometimes the knob in the cab doesn’t always seat… but I gather that happens sometimes anyways. Anyone who has a factory setup is free to offer tips. Next step is to test where ‘off’ at the arm leaves the knob assembly in cab and mark it.

I have dozens of non-factory holes in the truck - kind of liberating, as not so much trauma adding more! - and I think I figured out a few:

Air Force or Air National Guard people owned the truck for most of its life, so I am guessing these holes are for an antenna and cable. Could be wrong, but can’t think of any other reason for holes in cab outer skin. They aren’t repeated on the drivers side.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[70bus]

Thanks to help from a neighbor with a 70 Adventurewagen, the windshields are in! These are Staceyz’s repro Delogs with BBT molded corner seals. Got the seals from Lind, who suggested butyl rope as leakproofer. I had some difficulty getting the lip to seal over the pinchweld with it - probably because I didn’t roll it thin enough. So on the pass side I just used 3m butyl bed sealant. I also used bed sealant in glass groove all the way around on both windows. Messy, but in the PNW everybit helps.

Ignore the rattlecan paint job… actually, zoom in! The amount of orange peel is hilariious.

Same neighbor offered to help put engine on Jack and put it in… so that happens tomorrow. I have a 1600, so I need to dig through my parts stash and parse out a preheat system that will work with 1500 air cleaner

The truck had a ‘heavy duty’ air cleaner mount when I bought it, but doesn’t have the code for it; probably a PO addition. I bought the HD can for it from Lind some 3 decades ago! It doesn’t have preheat so I’ll start with stock, and maybe swap HD unit in every summer…
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[70bus]

So much for firing it up today.
First off, the bellhousing is not clearances even though it seemed to have been
See https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10212696#10212696

Sample

Funniest thing is that it only scraped in a few places when spinning motor and seemed to get better as motor went in( I was thinking maybe engine was tilted a bit, causing rubbing on low side) but when fully mated the motor would NOT budge.

But I didn’t know that for a while. First hour was spent getting motor onto input shaft; I assume the split motor compartment is a touch smaller than a bay? I do have an aluminum case and a FI fan housing, but still…

Hope the air cleaner arm goes on!

Found out the new ‘good’ heater boxes have an upper arm that hits the body if you aren’t watching. Also, that one box has the spring loaded flaps, and the other doesn’t, which will necessitate the auxiliary spring mentioned in someone else’s post. Hardline that goes across roof of engine bay is larger than carb inlet,so my Flennor 5.5 hose won’t work. Not only that, the hardline through the breastplate goes several inches past it. I guess I’ll just make a loop but it seems awkward.

Orange stuff over gas line is fireproof but I’m using it mostly to prevent metal line rubbing

Am rethinking the positive cable. Stock from WW, but stiff as a pipe; it can’t have too many strands in it. This is bad, because the terminals on my battery are both on one side. I can get it to work, but will be stressed.

I am stressed enough; my positive cable should be relaxed and flexible.

Managed to get lower nuts on the engine bolts, but upper… SO MUCH stuff in way compared to a bay. One bolt had enough room to turn tool about 2mm and was gonna take a while.

Realized my wrench was never going to be able to turn motor enough to scrape out bellhousing, and I ain’t using the newly-rebuilt starter for it, so decided to pull engine. Which was stuck but good and took another hour to get out of bellhousing.



I did get the wipers on.

And so far the driver side RGB is still dry.

Time for beer(s)

_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[70bus]

Using files at first to take down the upper bosses, I was able to get engine in and slowly tighten bolts as I rotated engine with wrench; took about 3 hours, but got it down to where there is only a slight scrape at one spot. Motor is out, and I'll dress spots with files a bit more, but I think the first startup should hone that small scrape right out.

It's possible the aluminum engine case is made just enough out-of-spec to hold the fw a teenyth of a mm different and rub and the stock cases would not have. Or maybe the fw is just a hair wider and deeper at teeth. Or it isn't on crank right and will wobble off the first hundred miles; who knows? I trust the shop, but with this truck Murphy is the driver. Might have to change its name.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[70bus]

Body guy, Jeff Gagnon, patched up my original treasure chest doors and got them back to me recently. I spent some time getting that shitty white paint off and they look much better. Well, I think anything looks better than that paint personally…

Put the engine in. Turns with no scraping on tranny so that’s good. Put the electrics on; WW harness didn’t include the wire from generator screw to regulator so I added one. Hope that screws the correct one - it goes to body ground.

Attached tach wire and Cht harness. Not happy with setup but will do for now.

Battery in. Not hooking up just yet.

Since my fan shroud is from a fuel injected motor, it lacks some clips; that weird metal bit will do until I find a proper one.

Hmmm. Tailpipe will need some work. Do I bend tab on muffler or tab on tailpipe?

Everything but heater cables (no levers) and air cleaner in; cleaner preheat needs kludging to make one.

Need to: fix tailpipe anlignment. adjust clutch. Adjust Accel cable. Adjust brakes and e-brakes. Put gas in tank and check for leaks. Connect battery. Cross fingers. Turn key.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[70bus]

I should have known such an ‘ambitious’ plan would anger the gods.

Got the driver rear wheel mostly adjusted - I hear some drag on a half- turn that I think is the Ebrake cables fault as it comes and goes. Or uncentered shoes. Went to pass side and my Jack apparently blew its seal as it won’t stay up now. Hard to even slip a stand under the car since you need to pump continuously. :p. Another chore for tomorrow…

Clutch seems tight, and couldn’t really reach in to turn wingnut adjuster its so crowded up there. Tried a wrench and began bending the ear so in desperation I used it to turn the cable backwards. Not great but I gained 1/4” of play. Well se if it disengages properly when motor is fired up.

Which didn’t happen, because the Accel cable is too long,despite being the proper one for the bus. Getting it anywhere near adjusted for proper pedal position puts the end so far past the arm that it catches the perpendicular section on arm and stops. Further and you are past the ferrule and on the cable, so even trimming cable end isn’t quite the solution. I have a Buttys Bits linkage and the trans rollers (in place of Bowden tube) and was worried they would make the cable too short! I suppose the linkage could extend farther rearward than stock, but I hadn’t heard of others mentioning it. I need to pull and measure, then check stash for other options to try…

Tailpipe does not fit properly, as the muffler tab and pipe tab are separated by a good 3/4” when gasket and support arm are in proper place. May just use nuts for spacers and say the hell with it.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[70bus]

As it seemd bad to perform any upcoming test drives in the rain with no window, I rebuilt the passenger upper door frame and installed. Still not happy with the rubber, and may do both sides over (def on driver's side as I cut too short and water will go straight in door under vent wing). Discovered I had two driver's slding catch plates and no pass side. Will do until I find correct one. Also, while others posted about latch differences, I didn't see an answer on what make/year/manu this difference in profile was related to.

Even walking the truck back and forth I still don;t have room to attach front screws to frame, so it doesn't sit quite right and door must be shut carfeully. At least it's on! Managed to squeeze t/c door on as well. This one will need some beating to fit well at bottom.

Have the fuel flap but leaving it off for now. I did get inspired by a pic in gallery and added a spill drain.

Sorted out carb issues - put 'proper' arm back on, and filed down bottom of clamp a bit; swapped position of Butty's Bits roller and bent frame tube upwards a tad. Cable is still too long by a good inch, but at least the angle made by accel cable by trans is better, and carb and pedal are functional.

NOS Leistritz muffler and Dansk damper not playing nicely; I punted and relied on NOS damper bracket to hold it... just bolted tabs lossely through holes bent enough to get a few threads started, to help keep it with car if bracket fails. Need to safety wire the NOS tailpipe as well, as I was passed by one driving on my honeymoon (trucker who had it bounce off grill and shoot past me was not amused).

Nice mirror from campingbox - mine was tinny-lookin' repro. But what is the hole in the arm for? I assume aftermarket stuff or am i missing a piece?

_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[Who.Me?]

[70bus]

Thank you for that succinct description! That's great insight to how the Bowden tube performs.

I have a number of variables from stock on this setup, the frst being a Fuel Injection fan shroud from a late Beetle (best airflow setup). I had to drill a hole for the accel tube through it which may not be perfect;ly positioned , and the local shop suggested I secure it fore and aft - which I had done on the last motor I ran it on. And I am attempting to make the best results using the cable, the tube, and a set of rollers to keep the cable off the trans case and in a consistent position rather than the flexible sheath.

The Buttys Bits accel pedal assembly adds a portion of that extra length, and the lack of 'proper' Bowden/fan shroud tube adds more, but I do see others running without 'correct' parts so it can be done. Just a matter or trial and error - in my case, mostly error! I think the 1/2 shorter cable will take enough off the total to allow a better position for throttle response, and future adjustments for stretching.

The longer tube is an idea to explore as well; I do have a billet version that is slightly adjustable as well. And an extra FI shroud for better positioning next time I drill! And yes, trying a Bowden tube is a good idea once I get the damn thing going. I do know the one I have is too long (24") and hate to cut old parts. Will get a repro to experiment with.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[70bus]

Measured Buttys bits Accel setup and it’s a few mm difference from stock, but negligible as far as the extra cable length at carb end. As long as I can get a good throttle response…. I have a shorter cable just in case.

Truck moved under its own power since before I bought it in 1992, so that was great. Tags read 84 so who knows how long it sat…

Brakes were terrifying, so I adjusted them a bit more today. I’d rather have drag than not stopping! Both switches on the m/c were weeping, so I put teflon tape on against my better judgement. Need to bleed again…

Bus did not come with seatbelts, but those ‘aviation’ style belts were added at some point. For now, I am just replacing in kind, with the addition of some plates over the doglegs that really need welded in or properly impact-epoxied. Soon. Meantime, here’s the setup. Had lots of hardware to choose from. Probably don’t need the double nut.

I have slats, but not ready for them yet. I debate doing the Rivnut thing. Glideking used 6mm; any reason not to use smaller? Meantime, to keep some rain out, I put in small screws, 2 rubber washers, 2 steel washers, and a nut in each hole. Contortions galore.

_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[70bus]

Raoul was born the second week of May 65 (as was I) so I made sure he was operational for our birthday... we'd missed 40 through 55, and no guarantee either of us would make 60, so 59 it is!

A little maintenenace; this is why I bought the Assistent. I can actually open the doors out here to work on them!

Minor bumper issues; the left bracket is mangled (right as well but less) and it's a little tight and droopy back here.

Couldn't fit my homemade light bracket in the space

gas dividers don't quite fit due to replacement floor - not sure if metal is at issue, or frame is bowed up a bit here. Dont want to bend the panels so still thinking about a fix.

Minor leaks from bed, and I think from wiper shaft.

Not sure which color is 'better' for OG look

Some color for the engine bay; forgot which member sold the hose, but I am amused by the lo-tech application of hitech material

Need a 'jaws of life' style device to open the license light cavity...

But enough niggling - here he is, in (mostly)finished glory:

Apologies to Clara for the abuse her beautiful panels suffered!

Finding year-of-manufacture plates with 261 was fun.

Rattlecan of 2-stage epoxy nose paint is supposed to be L87, and isn't, yet another from same company on right gate seems a close match. Would rather it be other way, as gate is easier to try again! Maybe new nose paint for birthday 60...

With the exception of the rear and right gates, EVERY inch was covered in white house paint, removed with acetone and 0000 steel wool over months - what you see is exactly what I found beneath. I dug out most of the bondo and just left a few patches that looked like more trouble than it was worth to remove, and painted them to keep out water. Definitely a patina car. I assume the rear gate is Turkis, which is ironic because the donor nose - under the clown-orange - was originally Turkis as well. I do have an actual perlweisse left gate, but the bottom is somewhat rotted so used the one that came with the truck. I like the roof - have no idea how all the paint burned off, but right gate had similar fate in Texas sun so maybe that's it? Though why no other spots... In any case, I should probably paint it, or at least figure out a rust-preventative protocol. Need to pound treasurechest doors to proper profile, as well as engine hatch; might just treat the bare metal afterwards and leave it.


Everything works, even the eflasher 'step-on-brakes-and-engine-goes-on/off-in-time' feature. Certainly DRIVES like a truck; I have adjustable Konis on all four wheels and no doubt need to adjust. Steering geometry is off and needs addressed, and a swaybar will be installed after adjustment. A few rubber bits need installed on outside. I have a "STOP" light that needs a bracket to insall on left bumper towel rack, and bed slats that need drilling before install. I suppose one is never 'done' as you spot things that need redoing or you'd like to add... but for now it's time to enjoy.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[70bus]

Or fuss some more. These work, but ugly Jeep-ass looking things. Damage to bumper brackets prevented my mounting them tucked under towel bars. Gotta figure something else out soon as these are embarrassing.

Drilling bumper works for reverse light as last resort; stop would need a hole drilled in body by taillight so trying to avoid both.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[BarryL]

Your work sure shows everywhere I look. Solid. Did you have someone else work on the brakes?

[70bus]

[BarryL]

[70bus]

Good point! The water in parcel tray under wiper shaft area may be unrelated to water on floor... The rain hit in the middle of a high, narrow bridge so i was not able to do more than glance for water on top of dash.

I did find that the bulk of the water in the treasure chest was due to doors not conforming to body line, and wheel spray going in past the seals; most of my screws-and-washer setup in slat holes worked pretty well.

Hopefully it at least drizzles this weekend and I can track down the cab issues. I did tighten the wiper shaft nuts on the outside a bit more.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[70bus]

I’ve been having trouble getting any pep out of the truck, and it won’t go over 40, found the throttle arm wasn’t being pulled all the way down. Adjusted the cable and…

Well that ain’t good. Clearly on cable not ferrule. Seemed to go in rollers ok, rubber clear of shroud tube, no obvious kinks. Just too damn long.

I was using 211721555C, which is for 65 from chassis 215036651 so it should have been fine. I tried replacing the rollers with a stock cable sheathe, but it was also too long

Cut it, of course it ended up 1/4” too short, but it still reached; same problem. So used the earlier cable (55-65) and wah lah.

Also shortened the barrel clamp so it had no friction against spacer preventing full travel. No idea yet if it solves the speed issue.

Tried to put on Dansk heater levers, and they are as crappy as the heater boxes. Both needed hammering to fit. And parts sucked. This is not a C clip, this is a pubic hair. About 2mm.

Useless.

Did fix the washer botttle issue - I HOPE. The problem seemd to be that the aftermarket bottle had different threads than the original cap I used, and fluid was easily flowing between threads and dumping out. SO I dug up the flat, non-bellows cap the washer bottle came with, drilled a small hole in it for wiring, and took a new bellows and modified it; I cut a hole in top of bellows and put a waterproof pushbutton in. This is simply velcroed to the flat cap, so i can take it off and tighten cap w/out twisting wires, then slap back on. Wires then go through hole in cap, out top of bottle, and onto motor. Looks stockish and so far has been watertight. Ignore all the goop I used to seal wher wires passed through the bottle... Will all get shoved back in proper place when goop dries.

_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[70bus]

Put on the splash pan; a bit of a challenge due to aftermarket pan, 50 years of frame stress, and replacement sheet metal. Got enough screws in to keep it from rattling.

Put on a sway bar as well (anti-sway bar for the purists). Not happy with the placement of the rubber bits, but it went on ok. Let me know if it looks wrong.

Would love to drive it to a local show this weekend… some 45 miles. Not sure it’s gonna be a good idea. Still can’t get it over 40 and the front end is slightly out of alignment. At least the road I break down on will be filled with sympathetic drivers!
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[70bus]

With the family following (to keep people who don't understand stickshifts off my bumper), I made the leap of faith and drove down to Woodburn. Made it with a few issues. Was very glad I put that sway bar on, as the car would have been far scarier on windy, windy roads. Not a typo: two different 'i' sounds.

I did not attempt the interstate. Family did indicate I hit 60mph downhill, and was able to stay at 50 consistently, though down to 35 on hills. This means my speedometer is about 10% slow, as I never saw the needle above 55. I assume the tire size is a factor, as the speedo is rebuilt. Considering previous accel cable issues had me limited to 40 per speedo, this is an improvement!

Got to the track and found a few trucks, so I parked there. All very nice, esp a red s/c with a rack, and a green doublecab. I admire all the shiny restos, but really like cars that show a well-lived life. Not necessarily a hard one, but lived-in.

My wife likes this bus, and now wants one. I laughed.

My truck is just visible behind the man w/ the beanie. Amusingly, this is the ONLY photo of it from the whole day. My kid did like a few other cars

I only have a potato phone, so no pics from me, either. Too bad; there were some really nice cars. There was a 64 s/c for 5K that was in better shape than what I started with... and a few busses that looked like a good deal, but what do i know?

I mostly have everything I need, so the swap was not burning through my cash. I did buy a few new 4-prong 12v t/s flasher cans to keep on hand if the square early bay box quits. I was surprised by how many clearly knowledgeable people told me flatly that NO split bus ever came 12v from factory.

Speaking of electricity: noted that when I have the radio on, and hit the brakes, the station goes away and hash was heard. The same happened when the parking lights were turned on - both these bulb sets are LEDs, so that means those bulbs are messing up the signal somehow. It seemed to go away when we were closer to town and station was stronger.

Also, the needle on the gas gauge was twitching up and down; not sure if votage issue or sloshing fuel. I did note that when tank seemed full Brazil VDO sender from 90s read 3/4.

Left early as I wanted to avoid evening rains (so let mw know if I won anything in non-judged show!), and came across slower traffic than me

Right after the second pic, the bus stopped moving, and the pedal stayed on the floor; luckily a downhill sidestreet was right there. Nyloc nut had backed off the Butty's Bits accel linkage and the arm fell off the pedal. Nut stayed in cabin, and I was able to get it on with some difficulty and get moving again.

After all that smooth sailing, the bus nearly broke a mile from the house! I live in an area of many steep streets, and one has a sharp angle to get to it; you can see the gouges in street where all the trucks illegally turning here get stuck.

I pulled almost all the way into the downhill lane (flatter) and started going up; instantly the car began bucking violently and hopping and banging. After 4 or 5 terrific hops it settled down and went forward relatively quietly. It could have been in 3rd instead of 1st (it does that), but shouldn't the engine have died under that load instead of bucking like a rodeo bull? When I have a missed shift on a gentler hill, it bogs downs and bobs a bit, but it's never leapt from the ground and slammed back down before. I wonder if one wheel was slipping or the extreme angle and slopes made the rgbs angry. Let it idle on a fairly level stretch a moment, and clutch wouldn't grab cleanly; you could feel a mushy sliding and the engine started to bog. Left it sit another few minutes, carefully let in clutch - and it shifted and went on like it hadn't happened. We looked behind, and did not see all the trans fluid running downhill, so that is good. My local shop ridiculed me for wanting a midmount, saying I would never need one to prevent a split gearbox. Well... "

THEN I tried to get it into garage! I don't have a driveway, the curb was simply cut in 1914 and a 45-degree slope up to sidewalk put in; then there is a smaller 30-degree step from other side of sidewalk to garage. And 6" on either side of car at door. Truck wouldnt go up and was spinning on the curb cut; finally got it to back up (one tire was off ground) and retried. Stalled, but finally made it. I think this was just normal nonsense due to insane garage/street geometry, and unrelated to earlier issue. I hope. I am disappointed the Genral Grabber off-roady tires spin on dry concrete. I can make them chirp at stopsigns!


By the looks of people as I left the dragstrip I assume I have exhaust leaks, so checking for those when it gets a checkup. Thought I heard howling from newly-rebuilt trans, but that could be tire noise. It wasn't alwasy there. Last, my kid rode with me on way back, and complained of gassy exhaust air in cabin the whole time; the heater boxes are not connected to tube yet, but even with flap under dash closed it was really strong. Was never an issue in the bay. Normal? Or will connecting HBoxes solve it?

Stressful but fun day.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[70bus]

Tie rod fun.
Took the bus to a hot rod shop for an alignment cuz other shops said they wouldn’t do it…. Was worried the Detroit Iron guys would laugh, but they actually were reluctant to give the truck back. They liked.

Anyways, they didn’t get far because the adjustable tie rod was A) slightly bent and B) they could NOT get the ball joints in far enough to adjust. Needed another 1-1/2” and could not move them in further. Got it home and checked: correct tie rod and ball joints! Put in a new tie rod and everything seems fine. Only thing I can figure is that old rod had rust or dirt so firmly packed you couldn’t get the ends through it.

Shop prefers cotter nuts, but all the new stuff lacks the hole in ball threads, so nylocs it is. They also warned not to mix them, as they view nylocs respond to stress differently than a cotter/castellated nut. So at least they were happy it was all matching now.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater