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Rocker geometry...any help will do
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1964VW
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 4:18 pm    Post subject: Rocker geometry...any help will do Reply with quote

I'm having a crappy time trying to get the rocker geometry right...
Brand new Scat solid bolt type shafts came with all flat washers,no wavyy ones. Running stock rockers with swivel ends on a pair of CB 044's...
Some of the rockers are hitting dead on and some are to the right of the valves.
Any Info/Pics would really help!
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1964VW
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bump-o-rama
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Terry Cloyd
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 5:47 am    Post subject: Re: Rocker geometry...any help will do Reply with quote

1964VW wrote:
I'm having a crappy time trying to get the rocker geometry right...
Brand new Scat solid bolt type shafts came with all flat washers,no wavyy ones. Running stock rockers with swivel ends on a pair of CB 044's...
Some of the rockers are hitting dead on and some are to the right of the valves.
Any Info/Pics would really help!


All rockers are offset from the valve. This rotates the valve in the seat. Shim the rockers on the shaft to have the off-set. Terry
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yetibone
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the rocker tips should make contact alittle off center so the valve will rotate, the seat will be kept clean, and the stem will stay lubed.

Make sure the adjuster on the rocker tip is parrallel to the valve stem at half lift to minimize side load on the valve and guide. If your cam has .500 lift at the valve, then the valve stem and adjuster should line up at .250".
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1964VW
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Offset to the right side a little-right?
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The Noof
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Offset to the right of center is fine.That means valve rotation will be clockwise. I don't think that the offset side is too critical, as long as you don't end up in a shimming nightmare to make it one side or the other.
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1964VW
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone have a pic of what the ideal offset should look like?
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randy2
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the use of swivel feel rockers the offset isn't as crirical, Just get as close to center as possible, I use the center at half lift method, when settin rocker geometry.
and attempt to keep things as strait as possible.

Takes lots of patience and time.
Well worth the effort in both performance and wear factors.

I have seen the results of someone not setting the geometry correct and having guide wear problems within a couple hundred miles.
Mainly becouse they didn't know any better and just assembled with out even checking.
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GjMan
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bill Fisher's How to Hotrod VW Engines has a good run down on rocker arm geometry. That book was published in the early seventies, but I still find myself reaching for it regularly.
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BugNUTZ
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a pair of CB 044's and had geometry trouble too. Everyone is correct when they say to have it slightly off center. Another good thing to check is place the rocker arm assembly on an empty head (no valves; just sitting on your work bench) and bolt it in to make sure none of the rocker arms are binding up. This will increase friction robbing HP and reducing engine life.

Also, if you have high ratio rockers try the CB performance racing pushrod tubes and seals. They have extra clearance, so that the pushrod doesn't slap on the tube and cause premature valve train failure (another battle I fought this summer).

Brian
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danimal
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

there is some confusion in this thread regarding valve rotation... lets make it clear so that the newbies understand.

vw motors came from the factory with valve keepers that are too big for the valve stem, which means that the valve rotates easily when the two keeper halves are put together, and locked into the valve spring retainer.

the correct way to build all vw motors typically involves shaving down keeper edges so that the two keeper halves clamp tightly around the valve stem, when everything is put together with the retainer.

so the original factory design used slightly offset rocker arms to cause the valve rotation, but with locked keepers, there is no way for the valve to rotate wrt the rocker arm... the only valve rotation you'll have is because of the spring coiling/uncoiling, or valve float.

many people believe that an offset rocker arm can still cause a valve with locked keepers to rotate, but i don't see how... judge for yourself.

most of this stuff is covered in the berg literature.
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The Noof
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

danimal wrote:
there is some confusion in this thread regarding valve rotation... lets make it clear so that the newbies understand.

vw motors came from the factory with valve keepers that are too big for the valve stem, which means that the valve rotates easily when the two keeper halves are put together, and locked into the valve spring retainer.

the correct way to build all vw motors typically involves shaving down keeper edges so that the two keeper halves clamp tightly around the valve stem, when everything is put together with the retainer.

so the original factory design used slightly offset rocker arms to cause the valve rotation, but with locked keepers, there is no way for the valve to rotate wrt the rocker arm... the only valve rotation you'll have is because of the spring coiling/uncoiling, or valve float.

many people believe that an offset rocker arm can still cause a valve with locked keepers to rotate, but i don't see how... judge for yourself.

most of this stuff is covered in the berg literature.



Valve rotation does depend on the keepers acting like a bearing for the valve to turn on. Not all replacement/repaired heads have keepers that allow valve rotation. If your cylinder heads have a spring/retainer/keeper combo that doesn't allow valve rotation, it isn't the end of the world.Most of the time, the exhaust guides are toast LONG before lack of valve rotation did the valves in. I do prefer to have engines with positive valve rotation, in the interest of longevity. It's all in the keepers...
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1964VW
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok I played around with things and got them just off center to the right.
This was done without the valve caps on,should I run the caps if I have swivel's? or bad idea?
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1964VW wrote:
Ok I played around with things and got them just off center to the right.
This was done without the valve caps on,should I run the caps if I have swivel's? or bad idea?


I assume you mean lash caps??? If so, not too necessary as long as the rest of your rocker geaometry is good. I don't use them. I prefer to alter the pushrod length if I have a geometry problem that way. If your rocker arm swivel isn't close to running off of the valve stem at full lift, and your valve clearance adjusting screw still has lots of adjustment up/down, I wouldn't use the lash caps. Just my personal preference.
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