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goonygoony
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2009 7:21 pm    Post subject: Coil Over Question Reply with quote

So I have a question that probably will be a dumb one for all of you who know what you're doing, but I want to make sure. I want to put a coil-over setup on the front and rear of the baja I'm building. My question is, do you remove the torsion bars when you switch to coil-over or do they still play a part in the suspension? Thanks.
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KrAzY-BaJa
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2009 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you will need thru rods and probably higher shock mounts
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goonygoony
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 4:50 am    Post subject: Thanks Reply with quote

That's just what I wanted to hear. Thanks!
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eggster71
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 1:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dustymojave wrote:



The stock arms actually are NOT parallel in either the link or ball joint beam. The spindle ends of the arms are further apart than the beam ends on both types. LP beam spacing is 4-11/16", 5-3/16" at the link.



I've been looking for this for ages! Can anyone tell me the outside diameter of the LP beam tubes please! Very Happy
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larryvance66
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has anyone got info or athread link to installing through rods? I want to convert my front to coil over and through rods but am not sure of the process. Any help appreciated. Laughing
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manguy
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=939587

this beam is available for sale in the clasifieds. i was wondering if the different geomitry and compound ratio of having a wider spacing between the beams would affect the performance. I need to get some disk brakes and im wondering if i should wait to make the swap to linkpin. will it be completely worth it? will i notice an amazing difference?

if i get one from him, i would have it widened. how wide should i get it? its on a baja. how tall of towers? the biggest i can get? Wink
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bdkw1
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dustymojave wrote:
Parallel arms would result in a constant caster throughout the travel range...and NOT cause crazy bumpsteer.


They also get rid of the pro-dive geometry. Leaving the beam strait up and down and making the upper arm slightly longer to get the castor back will actually net you a little anti-dive........

Ghetto fabulous LP to BJ spacing conversion in progress.........

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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Scott W.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looked into the adapter.... apparently there is a clearance problem with the stock steering idler arm- you have to change to center steer. This makes it a bigger deal to me.
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UncleDirty
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, an old thread started by Hamburger Brad back to the top. Cool
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dickcharlton
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

anyone know of a tutorial link to swap frame heads or replace them.
ie:balljoint to linkpin.
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73AZ
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 1:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dickcharlton wrote:
anyone know of a tutorial link to swap frame heads or replace them.
ie:balljoint to linkpin.


I'll throw this out there for you and hope it gets you headed in the right direction...

I am pretty sure there is no tutorial.
I have never seen pictures of the swap in progress, people have posted pics of the end result but that is probably not much of a help.

I suggest you go another route and do not swap frame heads.

Either modify the ball joint frame head to hold the king pin beam (I know there are pictures of this being done in the off road pic gallery) or buy conversion parts.

I think buying conversion arms that will bolt into the ball joint beam and hold link pin spindles would be money well spent.
http://www.bugzyla.com/parts.php

If you want to mod. the frame head all you really do is chop the top of the frame head back so the link pin beam will fit on there and weld in material to hold the new beam. If you can swap frame heads you can surely make this happen and, in my humble opinion, it's easier to pull off.

Swapping frame heads is as easy as cutting the old one off and welding the new one on. Sorry to be soo vague but that's really just how it goes.
Pick a line to cut, cut the old head off, fit the new head to what you left of the old one and weld it out.
I really recommend beam supports after you swap frame heads.
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/advanced_searc...;image.y=0

Please don't take this as me being smart with you; if you have the fabrication skills to actually make this happen you won't have any trouble with setting a new frame head on the ground next to the car and seeing exactly what to do. If you don't see how this will work then pay a shop to handle it.
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73AZ
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 1:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I'll be...

I think this will help you, dickcharlton.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_search.php?...t_dir=DESC
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dickcharlton
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

73AZ wrote:
Well, I'll be...

I think this will help you, dickcharlton.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_search.php?...t_dir=DESC

thanks.you rock! Very Happy
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Offroadie
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 7:58 am    Post subject: Don't shoot - I'm just a newbie! Reply with quote

This may be a bad idea, but I'm posting here since this thread most closely covers what I'm trying to learn about: the front suspension.

Big props to Brad - I found this through the index, which is an AWESOME tool, especially for newbs like me. Thank you, sir.

My Deal: I've been researching some mild Baja / class 11 builds, and really amped about getting one pulled together.

A friend gave me a '74 super beetle over the weekend (yes, no $ involved), and I'm trying to figure out if this will be something to work with for my intended purpose. The engine is great, transmission is great, it's got a recent pan on it, and not much rust, just some surface rust in areas, and IRS looks good.
BUT, the front end, ugh.

I have some welding ability (small mig in tow), and some experience with fabrication. Mechanically, I'm reasonably proficient - though most of my experience has been with Toyota trucks. Also, my budget is super low - hence the price of the beetle, my friend knew what I had to work with.

If I'm understanding the consensus here, the process of changing the front end to kingpin or Balljoint isn't as simple as just welding in a new front end. The will substantial bracing and reinforcement needed, and I may be better served by simply getting a standard beetle shell and going from there. Also, I've got my doubts about Baja-ing a ragtop...but that's another thread.

Am I on track here?

Sorry for being long winded - didn't want to pop off a one liner.
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Mal evolent
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you want a beam front end in a Super Beetle, build a full cage

if you want an inexpensive baja for real off roading, but not at competition speeds, check out the link at the bottom of this post
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Offroadie
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Appreciated Mal - thanks again for the Index, I've been doing a lot of reading there. It's a great resource!

I'm looking at just fire roads and trails right now. Down the road I'd like to do some heavier stuff, but I am in Florida...not many deserts or mountains here...
I'm keeping an eye open for any Baja shells, but this isn't SoCal, they're few and far between, and usually rusted out.

If I want some mild safety measures for now, it looks like gussets for the shock towers on the super? It's not a caged front end with a LP beam, but it's also not a huge commitment.
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65BAJA
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I want to get the front suspension upgraded on my baja. Right now I have stock arms, reinforced stock spindles, and a stock width beam. The beam has been cut and turned 1/8" on the top and bottom tube. It also has all wide leaves.

I would like to upgrade to some longer arms and lift spindles. I don't know if I want to go with a +4 and get some coilover shocks or just get a +2.25 arm and stay with the leaves for now.

How big of a performance difference is there between a 2.25 arm and a 4" arm?
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KrAzY-BaJa
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

65BAJA wrote:

How big of a performance difference is there between a 2.25 arm and a 4" arm?


the difference would be
pushing beam forward a little more
and with 4" arms you can reach 16" travel
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65BAJA
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm. Looks like Pacific Customs Is out of 4" arms. Hopefully it won't be too long.
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Edit, I started in 2003 and still haven't built a driving Baja. lol
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cwdaniel
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 2:57 pm    Post subject: arms parallel vs not Reply with quote

Regarding building a +4 arm front beam for strictly sand. Why would you not have the beam tube and link pin spacing the same for consistent caster? And does anyone know the reasoning behind the variable caster in the stock setup?
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