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ratwell Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2003 Posts: 8717 Location: Victoria, BC
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spiffy Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2004 Posts: 531 Location: Tacoma, WA
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Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 7:03 pm Post subject: |
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I decided against getting a oil temp gauge because of the lack of options for placement and accuracy..... so I would love to see something new and functional! _________________ 78 Riviera
67 Riviera
www.rivieraregistry.com |
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russ1302 Samba Member
Joined: May 04, 2006 Posts: 7
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billbeemer Samba Member
Joined: March 10, 2005 Posts: 169 Location: Los Angeles, CA 90016
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Posted: Thu Jun 01, 2006 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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I want to do this on my dualport 1600 (see photo link) - but I was wondering how to create a break in the line as to make engine removal easy... e.g. attach temp sender to valve head with wire running up about 12 inches - then have the wire from the gauge on the dash hanging inside the engine compartment - 'click' - the two wires are attached and there is no lose in temp sensitivity - any ideas??
http://www.germansupply.com/xcart/skin1/images/tech/cht/TIVSenderInstalled.jpg _________________ 1971 Westy "Chester" |
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SlowLane Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2005 Posts: 1044 Location: Livermore, CA
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Posted: Thu Jun 01, 2006 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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billbeemer wrote: |
I want to do this on my dualport 1600 (see photo link) - but I was wondering how to create a break in the line as to make engine removal easy... |
Here is a link to a source of thermocouple connectors.
You need to know if your gauge uses a K-type or J-type thermocouple. Here is a color-code chart to help with that. Note that the red wire in all of those pairs is the negative wire.
This is assuming that you've gone to the trouble of running thermocouple wire all the way to the gauge. If that's not the case, then any old 2-prong connector will do. _________________ Present:
'81 Westfalia: 2L, manual. Originally Canadian, now Californiated
Back in the day:
'72 Super Beetle
'69 Camper Van - Corvair powered
'71 Window Van - Transferred Corvair from '69
"With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine." - Internet RFC 1925
"They say a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, but it is not one half so bad as a lot of ignorance." - Sir Terry Pratchett |
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vwkombi1966 Padawon Learner
Joined: August 11, 2002 Posts: 604 Location: Oak Harbor WA
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Posted: Fri Jun 02, 2006 12:25 pm Post subject: Re: CHT Nirvana |
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ratwell wrote: |
Isn't this awesome? I chose the blue display with the black bezel.
Don't throw out your VDO gauges! VDO makes some really nice mounting hardware you can re-use. |
i need to get me some of THAT!!! those guages are the S#!T !!!!! _________________ Aircooled VW: more expensive than CRACK!
- 1968 Squareback (Scarlett)
- 1969 Westy |
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Basilbomb Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2006 Posts: 871
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Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 8:40 pm Post subject: CHT Gauges |
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AN old thread, but here's an inexpsensive solution: Wag-Aero suppllies CHT gauges for aircraft engines, starting at $55.00.
http://store.wagaero.com/index.php?cPath=15_24
Given the application I would assume they are pretty rugged. They are NOT temp compensated, but precise if not accurate, and the literature for the gauge spells out the correction and calibration nicely:
For COLD JUNCTION temperatures HIGHER than 75 DEGREES P. : The Indicator will read ONE DEGREE LOW for each DEGREE of COLD JUNCTION temperature ABOVE 75 DEGREES F.
For COLD JUNCTION temperatures LOWER than 75 DEGREES F. : The indicator will read one DEGREE HIGH for each DEGREE of COLD JUNCTION temperature BELOW 75 DEGREES P.
As long as you have a general idea of the temp, you can have a pretty good idea of head temperature. They list 4 foot thermocouples that will work under a standard 14mm plug for 10 bucks, and you can use a patch cable to the gauge.
I think that having aircraft guages in your VW would be way cool. I think I would throw in an oil temp or pressure guage to match. You could also install an aircraft outside air temp guage and really be precise! |
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Fibersport Samba Member
Joined: September 23, 2005 Posts: 1156 Location: Lansing, IL
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Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:26 pm Post subject: |
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When you mention cold junction, is that the ambient temp at the source or is it the difference between the ends of the sensor wire?
In any case, if the CJT is 100, then the gauge would be reading 25 degrees low; conversely if the CJT is 50 then it would be reading 25 degress too high?? _________________ 1973 Standard Beetle |
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Basilbomb Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2006 Posts: 871
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Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 10:07 pm Post subject: |
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As I understand it, the thermocouple works by generating a voltage proportional to the temperature difference between the two ends of the thermocouple. The one end is attached under the spark plug - the other end (the cold junction) will be the temperature of the air surrounding it, whether it is inside your vehicle or outside. It's important that this end is not near the exhaust or the engine for obvious reasons. And you are right, for every degree differnce the cold end of the thermocouple is from the preset of 75 degrees, alters the Gauge reading one degree. |
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Fibersport Samba Member
Joined: September 23, 2005 Posts: 1156 Location: Lansing, IL
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Posted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 4:23 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the explanation, so that means that in the Midwest winter the gauge would usually be reading about 40 degrees high ! _________________ 1973 Standard Beetle |
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Basilbomb Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2006 Posts: 871
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Posted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 8:13 pm Post subject: |
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It sounds like a good deal to me - $55.00 for the gauge, $10.95 for the thermocouple, and a 15 ft. patch cable (part #A-112-115) for $11.50 ea. Less than a hundred bucks and all the parts are there and you know the temp of your cylinder head. I'm going to install oil temp, outside air temp and CHT. |
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ratwell Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2003 Posts: 8717 Location: Victoria, BC
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xfrench Samba Member
Joined: January 15, 2007 Posts: 55 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 3:46 pm Post subject: ideal CH Temps |
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As a new bus owner (since Dec) and a huge fan of ratwell.com ;) I went ahead and got the Dakota Digital CHT gauge. My friend's mechanic (who'd never heard of DD) put it in for me last week (as one of several fixes and upgrades) and we went for a drive over the Cascades. I am very happy and relieved to confirm that my engine's doing just fine, but I have a few questions...
The gauge starts blinking at me at 380 degrees. I know in theory one can set the warning temperatures, but where should I set it? The hottest it got was somewhere around 420, and I realized I didn't know if I was supposed to be worried or not. The dipstick was never hot when I stopped and checked.
Since we're driving to Reno next week (from Seattle) I'm hoping you can give me a bench mark. At what temp do you pull over and sweat? ie How hot can your engine get before you are really worried and starting to damage stuff? I also have OT and OP gauges as well, which seem pretty steady and tell me not to worry, but all that blinking got a little distracting.
x _________________ '76 Transporter 2L F.I.
"Simon (TZV)" |
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IFBwax Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2005 Posts: 1325 Location: Beaverton, Oregon
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Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 4:20 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not convinced anyone knows the answer to that question.
To me, a lot depends on how hot for how long. The rule of thumb I've heard is anything over 400 is worrisome. Anything over 425 should get your attention.. I'd begin to sweat bullets and pull over at 450.
The other side of the coin is that ideally you want to run around 350 if you can. Which I don't think a stock engine with a stock exhaust is capable of... without running way too rich.
I think the real question is what is your consistent running temperature? I wouldn't want to run at much over 400 for longer than 15 minutes or so, just to be safe.
If I could run at 65 MPH at around 375, I'd be really happy. If you're on a seven hour trip and running plus 400 the whole way, I personally would be a bit worried.
That said, I'm sure these engines have run much hotter than that for years and years before anyone got CHT gauges. _________________ Owner of: "The Party Pickle" (a 1979 2 Liter FI "Raby Camper Special" Sage Green Westy Campmobile) & "Charlie Brown" (a 1979 2 Liter FI "Rob Grant Rebuild" Agate Brown/Dakota Beige Station Wagon)
www.partypickle.blogspot.com |
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TheTominator Samba Member
Joined: February 20, 2007 Posts: 898 Location: HICKORY, NC. USA
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Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 5:04 pm Post subject: |
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I too am a big fan of ratwell.com. This thread convinced me I need this DD CHT guage. The price is up to $119.95, but the good news is they now offer an 18 foot thermocouple length for only $15.00. _________________ "A foolish faith in authority is the worst enemy of truth" Albert Einstein - 1901
If I can't curse, I can't fix it.
71 Bus
78 HD FXS Lowrider 1200cc
An Oldsmobile for crying out loud. |
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m4mke Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2006 Posts: 92 Location: Morro Bay, Ca.
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Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 10:33 pm Post subject: |
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Not to brag or boast but... I took my '83 vanagon to go-westy over my lunch break a few weeks ago to dial in the afm. The lead mechanic worked on it for 45 min or so and told me it was to rich (LM1 test) and something was up w/ the O2 sensor. He told me to take it for a test drive and i didn't notice any major difference. Until I took it for a drive on the higway, now it cruzes a 350 @ 65 and occasionally hits 370 pushin' it on grades. I should ad it has mucho more pulling power on uphills. Case & point adj the AFM. _________________ Don't tell my wife I'm in here. |
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thewalrus Big Jack
Joined: March 27, 2006 Posts: 3014 Location: Belchertown, MA
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Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:34 am Post subject: |
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OK, I've decided to get a Dakota Digital Gauge too. I just want to make sure before I buy the gauge that this is what everyone’s talking about:
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=...prd347.htm
If it is…..I'm a little confused........is the last option the 14mm ring everyone’s been talking about?? Or do I still have to go hunt one down / make one?? And I need the 18ft of wire option right??
If it matters I have a ’75 with a 2.0 engine. _________________ '73 Transporter 1.7L Dual Carb
notchboy wrote: |
You ran over some #Vanlife'ers hopes and dreams? |
60vwnewengland wrote: |
Looking forward to next weekend, weed, krunk juice, hookers, blow, hanging with bums, philly, ...the awards! |
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JMazier Samba Member
Joined: February 20, 2006 Posts: 900 Location: In my garage, Georgetown, Ontario, Canada...
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Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:55 am Post subject: |
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thewalrus wrote: |
If it is…..I'm a little confused........is the last option the 14mm ring everyone’s been talking about?? Or do I still have to go hunt one down / make one?? And I need the 18ft of wire option right??
If it matters I have a ’75 with a 2.0 engine. |
Yup, that is the one and you do not have to hunt down any other parts.
Cheers! _________________ Cheers!
Jérôme
’79 Cali Westy 2.0 F.I.
'74 Honda CB 350 Four
'78 Honda CB 750 K
'12 Golf GTI
'11 Ural Patrol |
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Vwman55 Samba Member
Joined: August 11, 2005 Posts: 550 Location: Valparaiso, IN
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Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:59 am Post subject: |
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Yes, That's it 18ft sen-11 option. The sensor is part of the sen-11. A note here on my experience. I ordered the sen-11 asked for the 14mm ring and it was too small, called they sent me another, package said sen-11/18ft/14mm, it was also too small. Used a small rat tail file to fit it. Be careful its just soft copper under that zinc coating. I also did Scott Lyons method to mount it under number 3 plug(thanks Scott). Works great. |
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1977_L63H_P27 Samba Member
Joined: January 17, 2006 Posts: 2345 Location: Bristol, Tennessee
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Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 6:07 am Post subject: |
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Just curious; Has anyone tried putting the terminal ring under a case/head stud? I know the reading would be a little cooler, but you wouldn't have to move it every time you did a tune up. Peace! _________________
busdaddy wrote: |
...and try a few chubby ones until you find one you like.
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1977 Westfalia P27
you can't spell Volkswagen without SWAG
M-code Plate
Full Moon Bus Club |
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