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josh
Samba Member
Joined: July 13, 2003
Posts: 1773
Location: laid back in the tall grass
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 Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 11:13 pm Post subject: 68' headlight switch |
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I went to replace my headlight switch today and when the POS brazilian switch didn't seem to match I consulted the wiring diagram(vintage correct schematic not the b/w incorrect schematic in the new bentleys).
I noticed that my old switch had fried at the terminals marked 30. The wires there looked like they had gotten hot. The schematic shows almost all +power for almost everything electrical coming from the battery and through the switch at this junction. I turned on some accessories including stereo and enerything shuts off when you remove these wires.
Has anyone else noticed this?
Why the hell would they run all the power in the car through this little switch?
Conclusion: Returned the POS switch. Found a 67 bug switch(close enough) at the wreckers and fixed my car.
I'm thinking I should run a big wire from the front of the car for may stereo and to run my h4 headlights off a relay.
What do Y'all think? |
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Air-Cooled Head
Samba Member
Joined: October 15, 2002
Posts: 4070
Location: Chicago Suburbs
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| Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 9:44 am Post subject: Re: 68' headlight switch |
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| josh wrote: |
Why the hell would they run all the power in the car through this little switch?
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From Watson's Streetworks
" Early VW wiring was all battery fed...it was always ON. Those early Germans didn't know of drive-ins or parking. So, the radio, turn signals and wipers, for instance, ran off of direct battery feed and had to be shut off independently from the ignition switch. And, once those VW engineers determined that everything could be battery "hot" fed, they also could route wiring wherever they wanted. (Read that to mean - route wiring to the closest spot for subsequent distribution without logical engineering rational.) One point of example.. why does the primary battery feed go to the headlight switch first?"
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josh
Samba Member
Joined: July 13, 2003
Posts: 1773
Location: laid back in the tall grass
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| Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 12:18 pm Post subject: |
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Well I guess they did'nt know about 200watt stereo decks running at the same time as H4 headligths and a cell phone charger. Looks like I need to run some wire and install some relays.
Thanks for the info air-cooled head |
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Russ Wolfe
Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2004
Posts: 25187
Location: Central Iowa
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| Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 5:07 pm Post subject: |
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| josh wrote: |
Well I guess they did'nt know about 200watt stereo decks running at the same time as H4 headligths and a cell phone charger. Looks like I need to run some wire and install some relays.
Thanks for the info air-cooled head |
We used to reroute that #30 wire to the fuse box, and then to the headlight, and ignition switch, independently. Burned terminals, mean too much current. A loose connection causes high resistance, which causes higher current, which causes heat.
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Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey
Gary: OK. Ima poop. |
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Air-Cooled Head
Samba Member
Joined: October 15, 2002
Posts: 4070
Location: Chicago Suburbs
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| Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 11:39 am Post subject: |
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| Russ Wolfe wrote: |
We used to reroute that #30 wire to the fuse box, and then to the headlight, and ignition switch, independently. Burned terminals, mean too much current. A loose connection causes high resistance, which causes higher current, which causes heat. |
Russ, That sounds like the project I'm about to tackle. Got any diagrams?
if my re-wire project goes hay-wire, can I drag my car to you in Iowa?  I'm in C.R. about twice a month.
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Russ Wolfe
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Joined: October 08, 2004
Posts: 25187
Location: Central Iowa
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| Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 4:56 pm Post subject: |
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| Air-Cooled Head wrote: |
Russ, That sounds like the project I'm about to tackle. Got any diagrams?
if my re-wire project goes hay-wire, can I drag my car to you in Iowa? I'm in C.R. about twice a month. |
Wire B+ from the V-reg. goes directly to the topside of the fuse box.
From the fuse box take a wire directly to the headlight switch, and another to the ignition switch. If you have to make these wires, SOLDER the connectors, not just crimp them. The wire should be a minimum of #10, but #8 is preferable.
Make sure all push-on connectors are a tight, and I mean tight connection. Current is only being carried through where they contact and not through the whole connector.
And yes, my shop door is always open, so bring it on.
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Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey
Gary: OK. Ima poop. |
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