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Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig
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wcfvw69 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 4:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

Who.Me? wrote:

A comment from my wife reminded me that I'm sure I've seen someone on here drill out the lower diaphragm shaft and replace it with a small diameter bolt and nuts (e.g. M3 diameter)

I may keep kit that I bought from the second vendor which has the upper diaphragm etc. and and try modifying the lower diaphragm. If that doesn't work, I'll order one of WW's new lower diaphragms


http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VHD-N44-1301-4

Get one of these and the right size die. Add threads to it so you can screw a nut on it at the base after measuring to insure the length is correct to hold the bottom washer that sandwiches the diaphragm. Remove the diaphragm material after carefully grinding the crimped seal off the top from the craptastic short pin assembly and install it on the new pin. Then, put a nut on it at the top to sandwich the diaphragm and cut the extra threaded part off above the top washer. I like to seal the top nut so gas can't get down through the top washer or threads. Bang, done.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 3:08 am    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:


http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VHD-N44-1301-4

Get one of these and the right size die.


Perfect. Thanks.

wcfvw69 wrote:
I like to seal the top nut so gas can't get down through the top washer or threads.


Any recommendation for sealant? I have red permatex high-tack to hand.

Was also planning to use locktite threadlock.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 5:54 am    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

Who.Me? wrote:


wcfvw69 wrote:
I like to seal the top nut so gas can't get down through the top washer or threads.


Any recommendation for sealant? I have red permatex high-tack to hand.

Was also planning to use locktite threadlock.


There is a small gasket under the bottom washer on the aftermarket pin. Move it over to your new pin.

I like to use JB weld to seal the top securing nut that sandwiches the diaphragm. Make sure the area is squeaky clean. Then apply a little at the base of the nut and on top of the nut to seal them. JB Weld epoxy holds up to fuel perfectly. Your goal is to seal off any fuel from leaking between the nut/washer and the top of the nut down through the threads. It really doesn't take much JB weld to seal it.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 9:21 am    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:
Who.Me? wrote:


wcfvw69 wrote:
I like to seal the top nut so gas can't get down through the top washer or threads.


Any recommendation for sealant? I have red permatex high-tack to hand.

Was also planning to use locktite threadlock.


There is a small gasket under the bottom washer on the aftermarket pin. Move it over to your new pin.

I like to use JB weld to seal the top securing nut that sandwiches the diaphragm. Make sure the area is squeaky clean. Then apply a little at the base of the nut and on top of the nut to seal them. JB Weld epoxy holds up to fuel perfectly. Your goal is to seal off any fuel from leaking between the nut/washer and the top of the nut down through the threads. It really doesn't take much JB weld to seal it.


Thanks again. I'll get it sorted one evening in the week.

Would be nice to get this fixed before I lay the truck up for the winter. I noticed that our roads had been salted over night.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2017 9:06 am    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

I got the diaphragm modified in the week. Reassembled it this afternoon.

It still seems very stiff. I can only just get the shaft to move if I actuate the pump foot by hand. It feels a lot stiffer than the one I've just taken off the truck.

I certainly wouldn't be able to get it to pump like Kdavid did in this thread...
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=638589&start=160
His picture...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Should I be able to pump it that easily?

I've mounted it back up in the jig on the off-chance it'll stretch the diaphragm a little overnight.

It feels like if it takes that much force, the push rod will wear on the distributor shaft cam?
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 11:09 am    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

Just a heads-up for anyone interested in this subject: recently there were links posted on thesamba to downloadable pdf's of
a large collection of VW Workshop Manuals. I've been looking through some of those, and noticed that everywhere the
setting of the fuel pump diaphragm preload was mentioned (for the 40-54 hp mechanical pumps), it was spec'd as 13 (thirteen) millimeters,
not the 14 (fourteen) mm that has been repeated numerous times since the beginning of this thread (and elsewhere too). So, it seems
that either the 14 mm figure is an error, or else there is a contradiction if there actually exists an authoritative source for that number (which I've
never seen).
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 12:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I have this factory preload tool. I noticed it's pin is at least 14MM above the base. I need to measure it. I went to preload a pump I was rebuilding. It was clear that I couldn't tighten the pump base down fully on that tool as it put way too much pressure pulling the main diaphragm assembly down into the body of the pump.

I need to remove some material off the pin on this factory tool to get it down to 13mm. I've preset many pumps diaphragms with a pin in a vise sticking up 13mm. It works perfect at the height. 14MM is too much.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 4:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

My blue Bentley 1200 61-65 manual says under Reconditioning Fuel Pump, Assembly:

"4. Place lower half of fuel pump in a vice with the Gauge VW 328d inserted. Thus the rocker arm is pressed in 14 mm (from flange jointing face), bringing the diaphragm to the required assembling position."

Which manuals say 13mm?
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 7:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

McGuirk wrote:
Which manuals say 13mm?


These are a couple of pages from the VW Workshop Manual (K-Series) that someone made available here for download a few weeks ago. As I recall, there were other
pages with the same info.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 8:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

Interesting. The VW pre-load tool is different too...I'm assuming VW 797/2 is 13mm and VW 328 d is 14mm.

I don't know enough about the different models of Pierburgs, but just looking through the galleries I found a picture of a 1500 fuel pump that looks like the one in that K manual. Do you know what year that was from? Maybe the preload was changed for later fuel pumps.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 8:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

McGuirk wrote:
My blue Bentley 1200 61-65 manual says under Reconditioning Fuel Pump, Assembly:

"4. Place lower half of fuel pump in a vice with the Gauge VW 328d inserted. Thus the rocker arm is pressed in 14 mm (from flange jointing face), bringing the diaphragm to the required assembling position."

Which manuals say 13mm?


This 14MM info is odd to me. The dome top diaphragms main assembly pin length is the same as the square tops. I wonder if the 14MM was set for the bastard style dome top pumps. It was the first generation of the upright Pierburg fuel pumps and had a different rocker assembly vs. the later dome and square tops.

I have a bastard style dome top going through a restoration. I'll see if it can be mounted in that VW tool set to 14mm. As I stated, the square tops can't be mounted in the tool and tightened down all the way. It simply pulls the whole diaphragm assembly too low into the pump body.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 5:34 am    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

Update - I wasn't happy with the modified diaphragm. Everything felt too tight so I bit the bullet and imported one of WW's new diaphragms.

After shipping and import taxes to the UK, it was ridiculously expensive, but it fitted perfectly. After assembly, I could pump it by hand.

Checked the pressure today with one gasket above and below the pedestal. I'm only getting 2psi, according to my pressure tester. At W.O.T that comes down to just over 1.9psi. On shut down, the pressure drops immediately to 0.

I'm running a Solex 34-PICT-3 that was professionally rebuilt about 500-600 miles ago. From what I've found online I believe it needs 3 - 5psi.

The engine (1600 DP) ran fine at idle and W.O.T, but that's static in my driveway. Will I have starvation problems on the road, e.g. if I run at speed for a while, or under load?

I set preload at 13mm as per the above (square topped Pierburg). The generator push rod I have was 107mm long though. From reading online, I think it should be 108mm. It was a new part, not worn.

Would it be sensible to try rebuilding the pump with 12mm preload to account for the rod length, or just run it and see if the (relatively) fresh carb is happy with 2psi?

Thanks

Andy
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 7:44 am    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

Who.Me? wrote:
Update - I wasn't happy with the modified diaphragm. Everything felt too tight so I bit the bullet and imported one of WW's new diaphragms.

After shipping and import taxes to the UK, it was ridiculously expensive, but it fitted perfectly. After assembly, I could pump it by hand.

Checked the pressure today with one gasket above and below the pedestal. I'm only getting 2psi, according to my pressure tester. At W.O.T that comes down to just over 1.9psi. On shut down, the pressure drops immediately to 0.

I'm running a Solex 34-PICT-3 that was professionally rebuilt about 500-600 miles ago. From what I've found online I believe it needs 3 - 5psi.

The engine (1600 DP) ran fine at idle and W.O.T, but that's static in my driveway. Will I have starvation problems on the road, e.g. if I run at speed for a while, or under load?

I set preload at 13mm as per the above (square topped Pierburg). The generator push rod I have was 107mm long though. From reading online, I think it should be 108mm. It was a new part, not worn.

Would it be sensible to try rebuilding the pump with 12mm preload to account for the rod length, or just run it and see if the (relatively) fresh carb is happy with 2psi?

Thanks

Andy


Pull the fuel pump. Rotate the engine so the fuel pump push rod is at its highest point. Measure how high it's sticking up above the fuel pump plastic stand and report back.

There's been many reports of different height bakelite/plastic fuel pump stands out there. The important measurement is how high the pushrod is sticking up above that stand. If it's not sticking up at least 13MM, you can carefully remove some of the material on the plastic stand to achieve this 13mm measurement.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 8:07 am    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:

Pull the fuel pump. Rotate the engine so the fuel pump push rod is at its highest point. Measure how high it's sticking up above the fuel pump plastic stand and report back.

There's been many reports of different height bakelite/plastic fuel pump stands out there. The important measurement is how high the pushrod is sticking up above that stand. If it's not sticking up at least 13MM, you can carefully remove some of the material on the plastic stand to achieve this 13mm measurement.


Thanks. I forgot to write the measurement down when I installed the pump (fitted it in the week, but only just had time to fire it up). I think it was 12.7 @ TDC with one gasket. I'll pull the pump and check again
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 11:21 am    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

Who.Me? wrote:
wcfvw69 wrote:

Pull the fuel pump. Rotate the engine so the fuel pump push rod is at its highest point. Measure how high it's sticking up above the fuel pump plastic stand and report back.

There's been many reports of different height bakelite/plastic fuel pump stands out there. The important measurement is how high the pushrod is sticking up above that stand. If it's not sticking up at least 13MM, you can carefully remove some of the material on the plastic stand to achieve this 13mm measurement.


Thanks. I forgot to write the measurement down when I installed the pump (fitted it in the week, but only just had time to fire it up). I think it was 12.7 @ TDC with one gasket. I'll pull the pump and check again


You can pull the pushrod pump stand and remove material off the top with some fine sandpaper. You're pretty close though. I make sure your fuel pump pressure gauge is accurate. I've tested the pressure on several of the WW rebuild kits and the lowest I got was 2.8PSI.

You could take your VW for a ride and go down the freeway and 60-65. If your carb was starving for fuel, you'd know it quickly. I doubt it would at 2psi. Smile
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 4:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

The pump diaphragm preload has nothing to do with the output pressure. It's a safety measure to ensure the diaphragm is not ruptured by being pulled
on too hard. A ruptured diaphragm could quickly turn your vehicle into a big ball of fire.

The 3-5 psi output pressure given in the Bentley manuals is somewhat suspect, as many have reported no problems running with considerably less output pressure, on the same engines
with the same carbs.

As long as the pump volume output meets the specced 400 cc/min @ 3800-4000 rpm, which seems more than any stock engine would use, there should be no problem. If output
nevertheless seems insufficent, a thinner (or no) washer under the carb float valve could make things right.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 8:56 am    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

whittle 14 mm piece of wood that fits the bottom of fuel pump,insert 14 mm wood chip, push pump down flush with flat surface, tighten screws. WA-la!
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 6:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

kreemoweet wrote:
The pump diaphragm preload has nothing to do with the output pressure. It's a safety measure to ensure the diaphragm is not ruptured by being pulled
on too hard. A ruptured diaphragm could quickly turn your vehicle into a big ball of fire.


Preloading also helps line up the diaphragm with the bolt holes. It's pretty tough to line them up w/out pulling the diaphragm down into the lower body of the pump. It does also give a bit of play as well for the diaphragm.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:
Preloading also helps line up the diaphragm with the bolt holes.


There's no reason not to have all the bolts installed, but not tightened all the way, before preloading. Trying to put the top on and bolts thru after
the diaphragm is pulled down is kinda the hard way to do it. Diaphragm also tends to tilt rather badly without the bolts in, just from the shape of the
lever where it pulls on the pad at the bottom of the diaphragm rod.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 12:21 am    Post subject: Re: Home-made fuel pump rebuilding jig Reply with quote

kreemoweet wrote:
Diaphragm also tends to tilt rather badly without the bolts in, just from the shape of the lever where it pulls on the pad at the bottom of the diaphragm rod.


I found that problem was greatly reduced with the new WW diaphragm compared to the other kits I was trying before. The WW diaphragm could easily be pushed pretty much upright and it stayed there by itself. The other kits were too tight and fought the spring, so they kept canting over.

The diaphragm spring didn't sit right on the collar because of that, even when I'd tried using the original spring that I took out (it had the correct diaphragm in it when I took it apart). The WW diaphragm just fitted. No fuss.

Thanks both for your advice above. I'm hoping to get a couple of hours to work on it over the weekend.
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