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Brake job woes
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Vancouveria
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2022 11:23 pm    Post subject: Brake job woes Reply with quote

I’m in the process of replacing the rear brakes on my 85 - new drums, shoes, springs, wheel cylinders, and hoses.

I struggled mightily to install the brakes shoes, and in the process the piston came partway out of the wheel cylinder. I was able to push it back in but it did come out far enough that brake fluid dribbled out around the rubber boot.

In the process I also pinched the rubber boot and put a couple pinholes in it. How much of a problem is this - Is this just a dust boot or will it have brake fluid in it during normal operation?

Finally, a couple drops of the brake fluid got on the new brake shoe.

How badly have I messed things up here - can I just clean the brake shoe with brake cleaner and be done, or do I need to replace the rubber boot… or rebuild the whole cylinder?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Both boots have some damage, but the pinholes are visible on the left boot.
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Abscate
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2022 3:02 am    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

Kudos for being slow and careful with a brake job.

Everything is fine. It’s just a dust boot , you can dab it with RTV if you have some to seal those pins but I would skip

A few drops of brake fluid, just wipe off with paper towel. I’ve done the Muir brake fluid burn off successfully on a few cars in younger, poorer days, but a small spill won’t affect function or safety.
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2022 4:44 am    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

The rubber boot keeps dust out of the cylinder.
Dust and dirt in the cylinder can cause a leak.

Fix the tear hole. Silicone or a rubber goo adhesive will work.


Get a can of Brak-Kleen and spray the shoe.
The product is designed to draw oil out of the brake material.
Get the red can, the eco friendly green can stuff is crap!
As are many other brands...... IMHO
DO NOT BREATHE THE VAPORS!
Keep off of your skin.
It is ugly stuff but does the job.

Dave
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4Gears4Tires
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2022 6:52 am    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

Switching to discs is not even a safety decision in my opinion, it's a maintenance hassle decision.

Wait for them to go back in stock and them jump on them.
https://www.gowesty.com/product/brakes/25264/rear_disc_kit-vanagon?v=
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hardway
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2022 7:46 am    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

When you contaminate a brake friction lining you need to take that seriously. Using a solvent to clean the lining is the worst thing you can do. The solvent will spread the contaminant and move it into the lining. I use sandpaper to sand off the contaminated portion of the lining.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2022 8:48 am    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

4Gears4Tires wrote:
Switching to discs is not even a safety decision in my opinion, it's a maintenance hassle decision.

Wait for them to go back in stock and them jump on them.
https://www.gowesty.com/product/brakes/25264/rear_disc_kit-vanagon?v=


Interesting. I didn't see anything on their website about how to find replacements for the rotors once they wear out. Do you need to go back to GoWesty and hope they still have them or can you find them at an FLAPS?
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Vancouveria
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2022 8:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

Thanks for the recommendations - I cleaned up the small amount of brake fluid on the shoe with red BraKleen and the RTV on the boot is curing now.

Abscate wrote:
Kudos for being slow and careful with a brake job.

That’s a kind way of saying “I can’t believe I’ve been working on these brakes for two weeks.” I’ve been saying it differently in my head. (My Bentley seems to be missing the section on how to curse properly in German, but I’m figuring it out.)

Once the RTV sets up I’ll complete the initial adjustment as described in the Bentley, and then bleed the system.

With the hub still in place, “measurement A” from the Bentley is hard to measure. I’m using a piece of card stock with a notch to clear the hub. I folded it to match the inside diameter of the drum, and am hoping I can get the initial measurements close enough this way.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



The previous brake shoes look like they still had a lot of life, but the one of the drums is so worn that I can feel longitudinal grooves with my finger and one of the cylinder boots was completely torn.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It’s been a long process but I’m learning a ton. There’s no stopping me now!
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2022 8:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

djkeev wrote:

Get the red can, the eco friendly green can stuff is crap!
As are many other brands...... IMHO
DO NOT BREATHE THE VAPORS!
Keep off of your skin.
It is ugly stuff but does the job.

Dave


The green stuff being crap is state dependent.
I tried the one in CA, it is indeed junk.
The ones I get in HI works wonders, I never get the red one, gross.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2022 10:07 pm    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

Vancouveria wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Whoa...CLASSIC case of German over-thinking, ...-engineering, ...-domineering, ...(whatever)... Wink

1) Loosen adjuster enough to allow drum to clear shoes;
2) Install drum & tighten to spec...(sorry, don't have it here in front of me);
3) Tighten adjuster until shoes are heard/felt to <slightly> drag on rotating drum;
4) Loosen adjuster about 1 or 2 (maybe 3) clicks;
5) Verify: little-to-no drag on drums;
6) <Slightly> readjust if necessary (see steps #4 & 5)
7) Install wheel & (mounted) tire to spec [132 ft/lbs, IIRC];
8 ) Drive & <carefully> verify correct brake operation;
9) Beer.

Cool

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2022 2:34 am    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

4a pump brakes several times
4b go back to 3 and repeat adjustment

Skip the shiny disc brake conversions and leave those for the non-mechanics. Drums will lock the rear wheels and give you a better parking brake , too. If opening brakes up once every 5 years is too much hassle, it’s not the car to own
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campism
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2022 3:50 am    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

Vancouveria wrote:
There’s no stopping me now!

Not the phrase to use when discussing your brake work.
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2022 6:04 am    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

hardway wrote:
When you contaminate a brake friction lining you need to take that seriously. Using a solvent to clean the lining is the worst thing you can do. The solvent will spread the contaminant and move it into the lining. I use sandpaper to sand off the contaminated portion of the lining.


Well therein lies the problem with a lot of brake cleaners, especially the green crap and some off brands, they simply do not evaporate fast enough.
The rapid evaporation draws out the contaminants in the lining.

Dave
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kamzcab86
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2022 9:54 am    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
Skip the shiny disc brake conversions and leave those for the non-mechanics. Drums will lock the rear wheels and give you a better parking brake , too. If opening brakes up once every 5 years is too much hassle, it’s not the car to own


BS... er, sorry, respectfully disagree.

Furthermore, my dad, a lifelong mechanic, chucked the drum brakes as the first major modification on his '89. One year later, I finally did the conversion to my '90... single best modification ever done to my heavy Westy, hands-down. The discs, including parking brake, are outperforming the drums by a very wide margin... wouldn't go back to drums on my van if you paid me.

Nevermind you're a Eurovan owner, a model that VW themselves began installing rear discs onto by mid-1996.

Anyone wishing to keep drum brakes on their vans, fine and dandy. But denigrating those who have successfully switched to discs is totally uncalled for.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2022 2:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

Right, and T4 rear disks are part of ESP, pressure balancing , ABS, and ME7

If your discs have you more stopping power than drums , you drums weren’t in right. Non ABs braking is limited by tire contact anyway.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2022 2:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

Modern drums may perform as well as disc units. But older drums had a host of problems.

I choose to run drums still but I'm also not fighting insane rush hour traffic at break neck speeds either.

The disc/drum setup on my 86 worked amazingly well. Demonstrated by a Deer on a winding back road in Oregon about dusk.
I told the Van to stop NOW!
And it obeyed.

Dave
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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2022 10:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

Thanks again for all the help in this thread! I wrapped up work on the brakes a couple weeks ago (my mechanic is very slow but at least the rates are cheap!) and moved on to other projects like changing the transmission oil.

However, I’m noticing a pulsing when I step on the brake. I’ve got the van back on jack stands tonight, and one of the drums is noticeably dragging once per rotation. For any bike mechanics in the crowd, it feels the same as a bike wheel that’s out of true.

I assume that the brand new brake drum must be out of round or warped. Is this a job for a machine shop, or should I be contacting the parts vendor? If this is a machine shop job, what should I be asking for?

Is it likely that I somehow damaged the brake drum? I didn’t drop it or subject it to heat, so is there anything else I might have done to cause this? Or did I get a bad part?
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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2022 12:07 am    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

I’ve only used 10% sudsy ammonia to clean brake parts in 40 years. Super glue for the boots. Make sure to put a dab of anti-seize on the rubbing surfaces.
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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2022 1:16 am    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

Vancouveria wrote:
one of the drums is noticeably dragging once per rotation.


out of curiosity, which side?



Vancouveria wrote:

Is it likely that I somehow damaged the brake drum? I didn’t drop it or subject it to heat, so is there anything else I might have done to cause this? Or did I get a bad part?


well, could be both. if one side is dragging and you overheated it, it could have warped or it could just be a bad part

reason i ask what side is dragging is i was having a problem which i now think is solved and the brakes are great

in terms of rear disc brakes... especially "kits" i needed a part for a van that a vendor sold as a "kit" and they WOULD NOT sell any replacement parts to the "kit" as a service item so you had to buy the whole kit.

in my case it was a cable and after much research i figured out what they used and bought a new one for 15 bux instead of almost 1k for a new "kit"
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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2022 3:32 am    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

Quote:
in terms of rear disc brakes... especially "kits" i needed a part for a van that a vendor sold as a "kit" and they WOULD NOT sell any replacement parts to the "kit" as a service item so you had to buy the whole kit.


WTF?
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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2022 7:46 am    Post subject: Re: Brake job woes Reply with quote

skills@eurocarsplus wrote:
Vancouveria wrote:
one of the drums is noticeably dragging once per rotation.


out of curiosity, which side?

Vancouveria wrote:

Is it likely that I somehow damaged the brake drum? I didn’t drop it or subject it to heat, so is there anything else I might have done to cause this? Or did I get a bad part?


well, could be both. if one side is dragging and you overheated it, it could have warped or it could just be a bad part

reason i ask what side is dragging is i was having a problem which i now think is solved and the brakes are great


The driver’s side was dragging/rubbing. When I had issues earlier in the thread with the damaged rubber boot it was on the passenger’s side.

To add some more context: I’ve only driven about 20 miles of in-town driving since working on the brakes. While driving I did check the brake drum temperature frequently - it was slightly warm to the touch but not blistering hot.

I was concerned I might not have gotten the adjusters right, so I was in the process of taking the drums off last night to verify my work. My work matches the photos from https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8367832#8367832 so at least I think I got all the pieces in the right places.

In the process I tightened down the adjusters by 5 clicks, and that’s when I noticed that the drum was dragging once per rotation instead of having an even amount of force the whole ‘way round.

One last detail - when I swapped drums from side to side as a test, the same drum drags in the same way on the passenger side.

So what are my next steps here? Is this a job for a machine shop? What should I ask them for?
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