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glandnut 40 horses of Fury
Joined: February 26, 2003 Posts: 1432 Location: J-ville, FL
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Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 8:56 am Post subject: |
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I cut up every bus Hurst I get. Why, are they worth something? _________________ Looking for aluminum single port Kadron manifolds. |
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Boonies Samba Member
Joined: November 30, 2005 Posts: 816 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 9:10 am Post subject: |
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glandnut wrote: |
I cut up every bus Hurst I get. Why, are they worth something? |
Nah hurst just fucked up and made a few that were just a bit too big for a beetle. So you got to cut them to length.
ccp |
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Mohawk Samba Member
Joined: June 07, 2007 Posts: 173 Location: Varberg, SWEDEN
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Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 3:45 pm Post subject: |
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What size is it on the thread for the knob? |
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glandnut 40 horses of Fury
Joined: February 26, 2003 Posts: 1432 Location: J-ville, FL
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Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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3/8 X 24 _________________ Looking for aluminum single port Kadron manifolds. |
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Mohawk Samba Member
Joined: June 07, 2007 Posts: 173 Location: Varberg, SWEDEN
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Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 11:14 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks a lot for that prompt answer. |
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67bugnut Samba Member
Joined: October 04, 2005 Posts: 95
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Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 5:50 am Post subject: |
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Whats the going rate to have a shifter rebuilt? The shiftplates on mine are toast. |
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glandnut 40 horses of Fury
Joined: February 26, 2003 Posts: 1432 Location: J-ville, FL
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Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 7:39 am Post subject: |
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email sent _________________ Looking for aluminum single port Kadron manifolds. |
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newmanx Samba Member
Joined: March 16, 2008 Posts: 13
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Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 2:26 pm Post subject: |
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Well I know someone asked earlier in the thread but I don't think it was answered; anyone have any tips on removing the ball pivot to get to the bottom nylon plate? It seems there are 2 pins that need to be removed but they seem pretty tough. Anybody got any tips?
EDIT: If anyone needs to know; http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3693042#3693042 |
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spankyshouse Samba Member
Joined: December 12, 2005 Posts: 20 Location: valencia
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Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 5:13 pm Post subject: |
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is there i adiffenrt for late / early hurst shifters _________________ www.luftvolks.com |
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eurodub Samba Member
Joined: August 05, 2007 Posts: 1321
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Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 2:32 pm Post subject: |
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can i run a Hurst in a 52 split bug? i got one and the lower ball is bigger than what was on my split.. what should i do next ?
should i machine the Hurst ball and make it smaller, or swap the original split tunnel shaft with a post 1960 one.. ? _________________ 1960 1200 model 117 deluxe ragtop
1974 T2 Westfalia Campmobile
1976 MK1 Golf |
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glandnut 40 horses of Fury
Joined: February 26, 2003 Posts: 1432 Location: J-ville, FL
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Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 8:57 pm Post subject: |
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spankyshouse wrote: |
is there i adiffenrt for late / early hurst shifters |
Early copper and chrome shifters have nylon blocks of equal thickness.
Later Models have the thicker top block and thin lower block.
Hurst modified the top block thickness to cure the common cracking that most always plagued the earlier shifters, especially bus shifters that had much greater forces applied to the shift blocks.
I have no written or absolute proof of this theory of mine, but it has been established through observation and rebuilding of hundreds of these shifters.
Also, the earlier ones came in both copper and chrome. I have never disassembled a copper shifter that had original blind rivets and nylon blocks with the thicker top block.
Later shifters Hurst supplied always had the newer top block design, and were always chrome. These were available up until the mid 80's or so.
Also, base cover design changed from the early thick pebbled design with a thicker gauge plastic base cover, to the smaller and tighter texture of the later thin walled base covers. You can take these original covers and put them side by side, and the later covers are taller in order to accommodate the later thick top block design. _________________ Looking for aluminum single port Kadron manifolds. |
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Daniel Samba Member
Joined: June 30, 2003 Posts: 233
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Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 2:49 am Post subject: |
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So what's the difference between LHD and RHD versions?
I noticed my curved bus one is angled slightly towards one side. Is that usual? Or is that something else I have to sort out during the rebuild!
Cheers, Daniel. |
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glandnut 40 horses of Fury
Joined: February 26, 2003 Posts: 1432 Location: J-ville, FL
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Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 12:25 pm Post subject: |
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Daniel wrote: |
So what's the difference between LHD and RHD versions?
I noticed my curved bus one is angled slightly towards one side. Is that usual? Or is that something else I have to sort out during the rebuild!
Cheers, Daniel. |
Slight is usual for LHD, I have seen dead on at 12 o'clock or a slight bit more clockwise. RHD are much more obvious as seen here in Bruce's pic.
_________________ Looking for aluminum single port Kadron manifolds. |
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Daniel Samba Member
Joined: June 30, 2003 Posts: 233
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Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 10:49 pm Post subject: |
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I was going to try repositioning the pins on the ball at the bottom of mine to suit a RHD bus. I haven't had it bolted into the bus yet as it needs a rebuild, bottom blocks are made of wood!!!
It feels ok as is, the trigger doesn't feel uncomfortable to use. Might have to bolt it in before trying to change it. |
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fredy a Samba Member
Joined: January 17, 2005 Posts: 223
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Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 7:28 am Post subject: |
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[quote="Germanpride"]Thanks Bruce!
Bruce wrote: |
I have seen more chrome curved Hurst shifters than copper ones. But I have seen more copper straight shifters than chrome straight shifters. In fact, I have never seen a straight chrome shifter. |
my straight chrom one
_________________ sorry for the spelling |
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OhHerrooo Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2010 Posts: 1291 Location: Costa Mesa, CA
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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:59 am Post subject: |
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glandnut wrote: |
Sure, Just click on my Gallery button, pics start on pg 6. The off road thread won't be very helpful. Other than scavenging parts off of other shifters, the rebuild basically consists of renewing the base and boot, reverse cable if it snaps, along with a good clean up/polish/lube. The nylon ball guide plates can be drilled out and replaced if they are badly cracked and loose.
As far as the cable goes, I prefer to unbend the hook in the cable end from the bottom and pull the cable and reverse trigger from the top. Bending a new hook back on the cable is much easier from the bottom. Bruce has also recommended an old piece of throttle or heater cable is the exact diameter if the original one breaks. Also, you can see in my pics the "W" shaped spring and plate that is generally missing in these shifters. Again, thanks to Bruce, he informed me that this is a reverse lockout for 3rd and 4th gear. When people got stuck in the snow or mud, they realized they could rock the car back and forth by holding up the trigger and shifting from reverse to first over and over. This small plate kept you from hitting 3rd and 4th when folks did this, which most of us will never need to do.
In order to get the new cable threaded back in, you just basically have to hold your mouth correctly for it to go in. Eventually from twisting and shoving, it'll come on through. For straight shifters, it's easy, curved ones tend to be harder to thread it back down. |
i'm working on getting my shifter back together and am having a really tough time threading the cable back in the shift rod. after a few hours of twisting and shoving it still wont find its home. when i tried to insert the cable from the bottom (just to see if there was a blockage) it wouldn't go up into the shifter. what could the problem be? it worked fine before i disassembled it. _________________ '67 Squareback
'69 Squareback
'68 Westfalia
'68 Squareback
OCT3 - Orange County Type 3's
www.evenkeelsurfshapes.com |
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glandnut 40 horses of Fury
Joined: February 26, 2003 Posts: 1432 Location: J-ville, FL
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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:34 am Post subject: |
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pm sent _________________ Looking for aluminum single port Kadron manifolds. |
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Bruce Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2003 Posts: 17290 Location: Left coast, Canada
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Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 12:01 am Post subject: |
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Bend the wire so it has a curve to it, more than the bend of the shifter's shaft. What you're trying to do is make the wire hit the bottom at the rear of the shaft, cause that's where the hole is. _________________
overheard at the portland Swap Meet... wrote: |
..... a steering wheel made from a mastadon tusk..... |
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cln60ragfk Samba Member
Joined: June 21, 2005 Posts: 1569 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 1:15 am Post subject: |
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Any idea on where I can find some missing parts _________________ FOLKS |
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jan72 Samba Member
Joined: April 02, 2007 Posts: 167 Location: Romania
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Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 3:59 pm Post subject: |
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I've just "rebuilt" my Hurst shifter with parts off an Empi one. The blocks had to go together with the ball, because the Hurst ball was just a hair larger and it wouldn't fit the blocks. But they copied the stick diameter, so the ball fits well. the original one was badly worn out.
Anyway, the Empi plastic boot is not a snug fit over the steel cage and it moves when you shift, together with the rubber boot. Was the original one supposed to do that? How do you fix that? _________________ '72 Superbeetle
'72 Squareback |
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