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glandnut
40 horses of Fury
Joined: February 26, 2003
Posts: 1432
Location: J-ville, FL
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 Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 8:56 am Post subject: |
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I cut up every bus Hurst I get. Why, are they worth something?
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Looking for aluminum single port Kadron manifolds. |
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Boonies
Samba Member
Joined: November 30, 2005
Posts: 816
Location: Chicago
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| Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 9:10 am Post subject: |
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| glandnut wrote: |
| I cut up every bus Hurst I get. Why, are they worth something? |
Nah hurst just fucked up and made a few that were just a bit too big for a beetle. So you got to cut them to length. 
ccp |
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Mohawk
Samba Member
Joined: June 07, 2007
Posts: 173
Location: Varberg, SWEDEN
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| Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 3:45 pm Post subject: |
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| What size is it on the thread for the knob? |
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glandnut
40 horses of Fury
Joined: February 26, 2003
Posts: 1432
Location: J-ville, FL
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| Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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3/8 X 24
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Mohawk
Samba Member
Joined: June 07, 2007
Posts: 173
Location: Varberg, SWEDEN
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| Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 11:14 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks a lot for that prompt answer.  |
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67bugnut
Samba Member
Joined: October 04, 2005
Posts: 95
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| Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 5:50 am Post subject: |
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| Whats the going rate to have a shifter rebuilt? The shiftplates on mine are toast. |
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glandnut
40 horses of Fury
Joined: February 26, 2003
Posts: 1432
Location: J-ville, FL
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| Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 7:39 am Post subject: |
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email sent
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Looking for aluminum single port Kadron manifolds. |
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newmanx
Samba Member
Joined: March 16, 2008
Posts: 13
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| Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 2:26 pm Post subject: |
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Well I know someone asked earlier in the thread but I don't think it was answered; anyone have any tips on removing the ball pivot to get to the bottom nylon plate? It seems there are 2 pins that need to be removed but they seem pretty tough. Anybody got any tips?
EDIT: If anyone needs to know; http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3693042#3693042 |
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spankyshouse
Samba Member
Joined: December 12, 2005
Posts: 20
Location: valencia
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| Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 5:13 pm Post subject: |
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is there i adiffenrt for late / early hurst shifters
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www.luftvolks.com |
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eurodub
Samba Member
Joined: August 05, 2007
Posts: 1321
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| Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 2:32 pm Post subject: |
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can i run a Hurst in a 52 split bug? i got one and the lower ball is bigger than what was on my split.. what should i do next ?  
should i machine the Hurst ball and make it smaller, or swap the original split tunnel shaft with a post 1960 one.. ?
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glandnut
40 horses of Fury
Joined: February 26, 2003
Posts: 1432
Location: J-ville, FL
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| Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 8:57 pm Post subject: |
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| spankyshouse wrote: |
| is there i adiffenrt for late / early hurst shifters |
Early copper and chrome shifters have nylon blocks of equal thickness.
Later Models have the thicker top block and thin lower block.
Hurst modified the top block thickness to cure the common cracking that most always plagued the earlier shifters, especially bus shifters that had much greater forces applied to the shift blocks.
I have no written or absolute proof of this theory of mine, but it has been established through observation and rebuilding of hundreds of these shifters.
Also, the earlier ones came in both copper and chrome. I have never disassembled a copper shifter that had original blind rivets and nylon blocks with the thicker top block.
Later shifters Hurst supplied always had the newer top block design, and were always chrome. These were available up until the mid 80's or so.
Also, base cover design changed from the early thick pebbled design with a thicker gauge plastic base cover, to the smaller and tighter texture of the later thin walled base covers. You can take these original covers and put them side by side, and the later covers are taller in order to accommodate the later thick top block design.
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Daniel
Samba Member
Joined: June 30, 2003
Posts: 233
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| Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 2:49 am Post subject: |
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So what's the difference between LHD and RHD versions?
I noticed my curved bus one is angled slightly towards one side. Is that usual? Or is that something else I have to sort out during the rebuild!
Cheers, Daniel. |
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glandnut
40 horses of Fury
Joined: February 26, 2003
Posts: 1432
Location: J-ville, FL
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| Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 12:25 pm Post subject: |
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| Daniel wrote: |
So what's the difference between LHD and RHD versions?
I noticed my curved bus one is angled slightly towards one side. Is that usual? Or is that something else I have to sort out during the rebuild!
Cheers, Daniel. |
Slight is usual for LHD, I have seen dead on at 12 o'clock or a slight bit more clockwise. RHD are much more obvious as seen here in Bruce's pic.
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Daniel
Samba Member
Joined: June 30, 2003
Posts: 233
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| Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 10:49 pm Post subject: |
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I was going to try repositioning the pins on the ball at the bottom of mine to suit a RHD bus. I haven't had it bolted into the bus yet as it needs a rebuild, bottom blocks are made of wood!!!
It feels ok as is, the trigger doesn't feel uncomfortable to use. Might have to bolt it in before trying to change it. |
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fredy a
Samba Member
Joined: January 17, 2005
Posts: 223
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| Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 7:28 am Post subject: |
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[quote="Germanpride"]Thanks Bruce!
| Bruce wrote: |
I have seen more chrome curved Hurst shifters than copper ones. But I have seen more copper straight shifters than chrome straight shifters. In fact, I have never seen a straight chrome shifter. |
my straight chrom one
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sorry for the spelling |
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OhHerrooo
Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2010
Posts: 1291
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
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| Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:59 am Post subject: |
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| glandnut wrote: |
Sure, Just click on my Gallery button, pics start on pg 6. The off road thread won't be very helpful. Other than scavenging parts off of other shifters, the rebuild basically consists of renewing the base and boot, reverse cable if it snaps, along with a good clean up/polish/lube. The nylon ball guide plates can be drilled out and replaced if they are badly cracked and loose.
As far as the cable goes, I prefer to unbend the hook in the cable end from the bottom and pull the cable and reverse trigger from the top. Bending a new hook back on the cable is much easier from the bottom. Bruce has also recommended an old piece of throttle or heater cable is the exact diameter if the original one breaks. Also, you can see in my pics the "W" shaped spring and plate that is generally missing in these shifters. Again, thanks to Bruce, he informed me that this is a reverse lockout for 3rd and 4th gear. When people got stuck in the snow or mud, they realized they could rock the car back and forth by holding up the trigger and shifting from reverse to first over and over. This small plate kept you from hitting 3rd and 4th when folks did this, which most of us will never need to do.
In order to get the new cable threaded back in, you just basically have to hold your mouth correctly for it to go in. Eventually from twisting and shoving, it'll come on through. For straight shifters, it's easy, curved ones tend to be harder to thread it back down. |
i'm working on getting my shifter back together and am having a really tough time threading the cable back in the shift rod. after a few hours of twisting and shoving it still wont find its home. when i tried to insert the cable from the bottom (just to see if there was a blockage) it wouldn't go up into the shifter. what could the problem be? it worked fine before i disassembled it.
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glandnut
40 horses of Fury
Joined: February 26, 2003
Posts: 1432
Location: J-ville, FL
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| Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:34 am Post subject: |
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pm sent
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Bruce
Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2003
Posts: 17284
Location: Left coast, Canada
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| Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 12:01 am Post subject: |
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Bend the wire so it has a curve to it, more than the bend of the shifter's shaft. What you're trying to do is make the wire hit the bottom at the rear of the shaft, cause that's where the hole is.
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| overheard at the portland Swap Meet... wrote: |
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cln60ragfk
Samba Member
Joined: June 21, 2005
Posts: 1569
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 1:15 am Post subject: |
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Any idea on where I can find some missing parts
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jan72
Samba Member
Joined: April 02, 2007
Posts: 167
Location: Romania
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| Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 3:59 pm Post subject: |
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I've just "rebuilt" my Hurst shifter with parts off an Empi one. The blocks had to go together with the ball, because the Hurst ball was just a hair larger and it wouldn't fit the blocks. But they copied the stick diameter, so the ball fits well. the original one was badly worn out.
Anyway, the Empi plastic boot is not a snug fit over the steel cage and it moves when you shift, together with the rubber boot. Was the original one supposed to do that? How do you fix that?
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