Electric Windshield Washer Pump Installation FAQ

[samwise]

Anyone fitted dual outlet nozzles like a more modern car, to get two sprays?

I read that the Vanagon guys have found that 1st gen Smart For2 cars (as sold on Canada) have a 3-way washer nozzle that can be made to fit, although their cowl hole is cruciform rather than round.
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Ben
1979 7-passenger bus
Harvee the Wonder Bus' pics

[DougB]

I just did mine last night and used some dual outlet nozzles I snagged on Amazon, combined with the CIP1 Bay bus bottle with integrated pump and a modified stock wiper switch to which I added a small momentary switch from Radio Shack. It all looks stock, and the pump easily puts out enough pressure to stream from all 4 outlets.

That CIP1 kit is great, but really needs to include some check valves so the pump doesn't have to reprime every time. Those are coming from Amazon as well.

Right now I have it hooked to fuse #7 in my '75 Camper's block, but that's hot all the time. I'm a little confused by the later style wiring diagrams...can someone please recommend an ignition-switched fuse that I can tap into?

Also, bozo question: when tapping into fused circuits at the fuse block, I connect to the top of the fuse, not the bottom, right? I believe the top is the output after the fuse and the bottom is the input into the fuse. Thx!

- Doug

[webwalker]

Reprime? That's kind of grotty. Why in the world put the pump on the uphill side?
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"Consistent maintenance with quality products is the cheapest warranty you'll ever need."
1977 CE1 Transporter Deluxe, Subaru EJ22, Skills Cooling, Steedle HD 091 w/ GuardT .82 4th
Click to view image

[DougB]

Well, where else are you going to put the pump in a Bay where it and the tank are above the nozzles? And can you even think of a modern car that has the tank above the nozzles? If that were the case...well...you wouldn't need the pump.

The check valves, something that all new cars come with because of this same issue, did the trick. They should just be in the kit from CIP1.

My 2 nozzles and 4 outlets do a great job of soaking the entire windshield, though I wish they were a "spray" rather than "stream" pattern. For how often I use the washer, though, it's fine as is.
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'75 Campmobile (tin-top to SpaceRoof)
'73 Fastback
'52 BMW R67/2
'41 Zundapp KS600
'55 Puch SGS250
A very, very understanding wife

[webwalker]

Sorry, I thought you were saying that pump was taking its sweet time to prime because the pump is at the TOP of the tank and had to draw fluid up into the body from the tank, then send it on to the nozzles.

I was saying that it would seem a more obvious place to have the pump at the bottom of the tank where the stock outlet was so that the tank (and the drain back from the nozzles) always wants to keep the pump body full for instant, no-prime action.

M
_________________
"Consistent maintenance with quality products is the cheapest warranty you'll ever need."
1977 CE1 Transporter Deluxe, Subaru EJ22, Skills Cooling, Steedle HD 091 w/ GuardT .82 4th
Click to view image

[DougB]

Oh, that makes sense...the location of the pump is not great, but it wasn't causing the issue. Whoever manufactures the kit for CIP1 & BusBoys puts the inlet for the pump in the center of one of the domed sides of the tank...whereas it would be better if it were at the very bottom of one of the sides. I think the design tries to look like the stock tank, with a pump added, instead of making the system better down to the very last drop of fluid. In retrospect it might just be better to use the stock tank and a separate tank. This one works well for me, but only until the fluid gets to the half full mark. :-/
_________________
'75 Campmobile (tin-top to SpaceRoof)
'73 Fastback
'52 BMW R67/2
'41 Zundapp KS600
'55 Puch SGS250
A very, very understanding wife

[hometurbine]

Continuing this thread...this is my solution.

I used the stock tank. Since there were no good mounting places for the Trico pump as previously mentioned, I added a bracket to the original right side tank bracket and hung the pump upside down with gaskets as vibration dampers. The advantage of this set-up is that the pump is gravity-fed and shouldn't vibrate like in the previously mentioned mounting locations. Also, nothing original was modified, except for 2 extra holes on the original bracket for the mounting bolts. Of course, I then powder coated the assembly. I also added the momentary switch in the steering column and a relay in the fuse box to actuate the pump.

As an alternative to my bracket, one could just bend a relatively thick piece of aluminum (or something stiff enough not to vibrate).

Thanks
_________________
Bill
'75 Westy Bus with Subaru EJ25 engine
GE CT58-100 helicopter gas turbine
Tiernay TT10 APU gas turbine

[webwalker]

lovely work hometurbine!
_________________
"Consistent maintenance with quality products is the cheapest warranty you'll ever need."
1977 CE1 Transporter Deluxe, Subaru EJ22, Skills Cooling, Steedle HD 091 w/ GuardT .82 4th
Click to view image

[airschooled]

Nice work on the rubber mounts. Do you hear much of it in operation?

Did you get to use all the stock fasteners to hold the assembly in place, and did anything require clearancing?

--

I must confess… When I mocked up my pump a few months ago I was so excited to get it working, that I stuffed in an old rag, duct-taped the rag into a ball, and stuffed it between the heater tree and the tank, just below the outlet of the tank. I thought it was a total hack until I activated the switch and there is NO noise unless the car is off and you're just showing off for other bus owners… JUST like the original!

I'm not saying it's good at all, but for an $18 Trico pump… And because the pump is below the stock outlet, it's never more than one second of button pressing before the water squirts out. (This is FAR better than my 2009 VW Jetta, which takes five or six seconds to prime.) I sincerely doubt the pump will face any heat issues, but if/when it burns out I'm definitely making a mount like yours!

See you on the road,
Robbie
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Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
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[hometurbine]

Thanks guys.

I tested it on the bench to make sure it worked and it sounded as one would expect there. I installed everything on the bus, but haven't run it yet (I don't have a windshield in), but I'll try it tomorrow and report back. I'm almost done with an entirely new wire harness and this was "while I was there" project.

Asiab3,
I'll also take some pictures of it installed, but it shouldn't require anything different hardware-wise. Just 4 extra bolts: 2 to add the extra bracket and 2 for the pump. I did grind the bracket to a round shape around the tank, but this can be avoided with just a bolted angle piece (without side ribs).

And to be clear the "rag" solution would have worked perfectly as you mentioned, but my OCD wouldn't let me do it...
_________________
Bill
'75 Westy Bus with Subaru EJ25 engine
GE CT58-100 helicopter gas turbine
Tiernay TT10 APU gas turbine

[HarryFD]

Just installed an electric washer fluid pump in my 1970.

1-Removed the air pressurization line to create an air vent.
2-Cut the washer line close to the tank, connected the hose ends to the pump and mounted the pump in the space next to the tank at this location. Pump suction lower than tank.
3-Pulled the washer lines off of the wiper switch (they were renewed last year) and used a double barb fitting to connect the two ends.
4-Used an existing ground star to ground the new motor.
5-Installed a momentary push button where my inoperative brake warning light used to be.
6-Connected the switch to the pump and fuse 8 which is hot when the key is on.

This is the pump I got at Autozone:
https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/w...52_44259_0

This is the switch I found at O'Reilly's:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-conduc...&pos=0
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1970 Deluxe Sunroof Bay Brilliant Blue/Cloud White
1973.5 911 Targa
2009 MB C300

[highlandmurf]

Hi all,

I installed a washer pump and momentary switch awhile back, and am having an issue.

System works fine, but will continue to weep when not in use until the bottle is empty. I guess i have some kind of syphoning effect happening.

Pump is installed below the dash, above the washer bottle.

Any thoughts on why this is happening?

The bottle situation is stock with the tire valve still attached.

Thanks
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1976 Westy Marigold Yellow
2.0 stock FI
My M-Plate

[HarryFD]

[highlandmurf]

Weeps out of the nozzles and runs down the front of the car till the bottle is empty.

Think I left the valve cap a little loose for air. Maybe I should remove it altogether.

So, when the pump is primed, but off it is flowing out of the bottle through the pump and out of the nozzles.
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1976 Westy Marigold Yellow
2.0 stock FI
My M-Plate

[HarryFD]

[D&L]

[Globespotter]

I drilled a hole in the cap to allow it to flow easily and avoid the pressurization issue.
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1977 Westfalia - October 2015 - Current
1971 Super Beetle - May 2012 - Current
1979 Westfalia - 1986-1991
1971 Super Beetle - 1977-1980

1971 SB Survivor Story: https://globespotter.com/
Road Trip Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=511800&highlight=
My 77 Westy Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=647114&highlight=

http://vw-mplate.com/mcode.php?lang=EN&id=30990
https://vw-type2-id.xyz/mplate/72067382

[IAmADonut]

These kits come with a two pole push button switch. I integrated mine into my dash and added a knob with the windshield washer symbol on it. Well, the switch has gone faulty. I can replace the push button switch with any push button switch, but I'd like to replace same with same so I don't have to redo my dash, etc... Anyone out there know where the push button switches from these kits can be found?

They come in kits like this:
https://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D211%2D989%2D453
or
https://www.busdepot.com/j14208

Thanks!
First post... Hopefully, more to come

[SLVRSRFR]

I have a brand new switch from one of those kits that I am not going to use - send me a PM
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Brian

'78 westy, '64 sedan

[IAmADonut]