Shortening a Pan

[EVfun]

My frame was shortened years ago and it was a strait cut with a 4 inch by 6 inch (roughly) doubler welded over seam on the bottom of the tunnel. I haven't had cracking except from the bottom of the floor pan lip to the doubler in the bottom (only part way but on both sides.) Those areas don't line up perfect and did crack. I rewelded the seams after dressing the edges to get clean steel.

I had some more significant cracking where a PO cut hole was cut in the top of the tunnel by the pedals. I cut the cracks open with a dremel and a drill and welded those up, then welded a patch from another tunnel to get rid of the hole. If you must have access holes in the tunnel I recommend making them with a hole saw -- smooth and round. A square hole directly in the top of the tunnel is clearly a bad idea.

Welding up the tunnel opens it up to rust near the seams. That factory finish is amazing, even a rusted out '59 parts car I bought (the kind of car where you can see 3 tires from the drivers seat and have rust holes in the rain gutters) didn't have any rust inside the tunnel. I vacuum up some rust from the inside of my buggy frame every 3 years or so and it is stored indoors.
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[buellfuel]

My first post!
I was measuring up my old pan to cut a new tube down to size.
Two things.
1. on an interesting note the old pan had cracked on the top part of the tube through the hand brake cutout. I felt twisting when I was running the buggy up hills and such. I would just weld it up but the front axle is falling off and there is a ton of rust up front.
2. Those of you who have used a perimeter 1X2(or something similar) what kind of pointers can you give me. I was planning on cutting down the new tube and following the outline of the body starting at the rear axle and running the tubing to the front axle. I was also thinking about using a flat aluminum or similar material for the floor pan instead of cutting down a stock style pan.
Thanks!

[buellfuel]

Well...No one answered! I took a drive and measured up my Sand Shark. I compared that to the new pan I bought and started marking it out. I have a friend that owns an automotive machine shop and builds some pretty incredible hot rods so I took it over to him tonight. The pan needed to be shortened 14 1/4 inches, just like most of the tub buggies. We shortened the portion of the tube where the square portion was removing the hand brake bracket area. We got it cut apart, saved the clutch and throttle cable housings and even the stock fuel lines. Then we removed the heater cable housings and parking brake housings and put it back together. It went together pretty good. Since it is a ball joint pan and I am running an aluminum king pin front end I bought some very nice king pin to ball joint adapter brackets that we will mount upside down so the axle will be mounted about an inch lower on the pan raising the front of the tub up slightly.

[Dale M.]

Nice looking work but where is E-brake handle/assembly.... The reason you probably did not get any answers, is probably becasue you inquiry was written more as comments than questions.... Also attaching you questions to old threads sometimes they get ignored..... Because of all the old "stuff" that precedes your question(s)....

And by the way, this is where and how the traditional and considered "standard" way of where and how to shorten VW pan...

Dale
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“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[buellfuel]

Thanks for the reply and the diagram!
One of the reasons I went without the E brake handle was because the old pan cracked right through the opening for the handle and just ahead of the weld in front of the splice, plus the seats are too large for the car and there is very little room between the seats for the handle.

[BIGMIKEY]

What will you do for a parking brake?

Mike T
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BIGMIKEY

Deserter Series 1 project.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=787047&highlight=

1973 Beetle Driver, Marina Blue.

[buellfuel]

I am not really concerned about a parking brake, I only run it to and from the dunes, about a mile or so and then on the dunes. I am planning on a cutting brake and then I could run a single lever infront of the cutting brake cylinder to operate both back brakes.
I forgot to take my camera today. we have brackets tacked on the front to hang the king pin axle to the ball joint front end.
When I was looking for a pan to modify I would find a rusted out back or a good front or vice versa, this was the closest pan I could find in my area. Unfortunately it was hit in the front end on the right side. Getting everything right today was quite problematic trying to get things to fit.

[Q-Dog]

A hydraulic failure will leave you with no brakes. If you think you might ever use the car on the street, you need a mechanical parking brake.
I had cracks around the e-brake handle when I bought my buggy. I welded them up and they cracked again, so, here is how I finally fixed mine. Turn Key Manx does something similar on every chassis they build.

First I made a template and bent up this.

Then welded and cleaned with a flap disk.

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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[Tvättbjörn]

[Dale M.]

[wardvwracer]

Wondering if anyone here has any pics or details that you'd share around modifying the shift rod?

The shift rod has gradual bends in it and when you shorten the pan 14.5" where's the best place to cut the rod?

Is it necessary to do multiple cuts to maintain some of the bends located near the emergency brake?
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David Ward
ACME Berrien Buggy Street/Strip racer build
1963 Single Cab
1969 Beetle Convertible
63 11-Window Kombi Bus
Cornpanzers

[Dale M.]

[shermer-high]

I second the last post. I cut mine at trans axil end and used an adjustable connector back in 2001 and it worked perfectly. Do yourself a favor and replace the front shifter bushing also.