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chabanais
Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2002
Posts: 4866
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 Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 3:00 pm Post subject: Buying all those replacement bolts, nuts, and screws? |
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You know, the nut that goes on the back of the bolt that attaches the window regulator to the window... or the ones that hold the engine tray together, or all the other odds and ends. Where do I find those or the correct sizes?
Thanks!
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"I spud therefore I yam." |
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vdubyah73
Samba Member
Joined: July 05, 2003
Posts: 2541
Location: somewhere in Texas, my house has wheels
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| Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 4:12 pm Post subject: |
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Tin screws can be found at good hardware stores they might not look the same but they'll work. Bring an old one with you find the metric section then find a nut that'll fit the tin screw so you know what size you need . The nut for the regulator can be found the same way if you can bring the bolt with you.
Good luck Bill |
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steponmebbbboom
Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2004
Posts: 6390
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| Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 4:16 pm Post subject: |
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| find a wreck and go to town. nuff said |
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Hippie
Samba Tinner
Joined: August 16, 2004
Posts: 1781
Location: Iowa: The Mud State
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keifernet
Samba Search & Rescue
Joined: May 11, 2002
Posts: 19395
Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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| Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 5:24 pm Post subject: |
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Wow chab... long time since I've seen you post!
I have a good selection of good used hardware if you can come up with a comprehensive list I might can help you out. PM me. |
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sluggo
Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2005
Posts: 946
Location: Portland, Or.
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| Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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You can buy a bag of 100 new tin screw that match the originals on e-Bay for about $7. I got mine and they are bright and shiny!
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'77 Sunroof Bus.
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Itinerant Air-Cooled Forums
http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com |
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BobDog
Samba Member
Joined: January 15, 2004
Posts: 1193
Location: Orange County
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chabanais
Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2002
Posts: 4866
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| Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah my Bus sat for 8 months while I enjoyed driving my Acura. But now it's all current in the registration. So I'll follow-up on those links.
Used to be tons of junker Buses around but no more! At least none I know of in SF-area.
My Bus is missing so many OEM parts I couldn't even pull another one off to match it at a store.
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"I spud therefore I yam." |
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Karl
Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2001
Posts: 6170
Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
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| Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 9:15 pm Post subject: Re: Buying all those replacement bolts, nuts, and screws? |
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| chabanais wrote: |
You know, the nut that goes on the back of the bolt that attaches the window regulator to the window... or the ones that hold the engine tray together, or all the other odds and ends. Where do I find those or the correct sizes?
Thanks! |
If you need the nut on the back side of the window channel, #22 here:
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Microfiche/t207200.gif
then you need another channel. It has welded nuts on it. 19 goes thru the regulator and threads into 22. |
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steponmebbbboom
Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2004
Posts: 6390
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| Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 2:59 pm Post subject: |
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| I suppose if you look hard enough you could get a weldnut and have a welding shop tig it on for you. Fabory Metrican is a good supplier of metric fasteners, they have a website but I dont know if they have a dealer in your area. Google search? |
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blatzer
Samba Member
Joined: June 27, 2007
Posts: 358
Location: Austintatious- aka ATX
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| Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2023 9:07 am Post subject: Re: Buying all those replacement bolts, nuts, and screws? |
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| where ya gonna find the nut and bolt spec sheet |
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SGKent 
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 41031
Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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| Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2023 9:38 am Post subject: Re: Buying all those replacement bolts, nuts, and screws? |
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| blatzer wrote: |
| where ya gonna find the nut and bolt spec sheet |
On any of the fiches for VW buses that are available you can find a nut or bolt in it. If you go to the part number, it will usually have the length and mm size. It will not have the pitch or hardness. Those however are common. You can Google the actual part number and often that information will come up in the description. I use BelMetric as my main source now for nuts and bolts.
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kreemoweet
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2008
Posts: 3899
Location: Seattle, WA
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| Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2023 4:59 pm Post subject: Re: Buying all those replacement bolts, nuts, and screws? |
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At the end of each chapter in the Bentley service manual, there's usually a table of torque specs. Those tables frequently give the fastener size/thread specs also.
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'67 bug: seized by the authorities
'68 bug: seized by the authorities
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mikedjames
Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2012
Posts: 2745
Location: Hamble, Hampshire, UK
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| Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2023 12:08 pm Post subject: Re: Buying all those replacement bolts, nuts, and screws? |
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A pile of M6 x 20mm bolts and nuts and a hack saw.
A pile of M8x 30mm bolts and nuts.
A handful of M7x15mm bolts for brake drums sometimes 215mm clutches
A pile of M6x 12mm set screws for tinware.
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Ancient vehicles and vessels
1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.
1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
1973 wooden Pacer sailing dinghy |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21520
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2023 4:08 pm Post subject: Re: Buying all those replacement bolts, nuts, and screws? |
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| mikedjames wrote: |
A pile of M6 x 20mm bolts and nuts and a hack saw.
A pile of M8x 30mm bolts and nuts.
A handful of M7x15mm bolts for brake drums sometimes 215mm clutches
A pile of M6x 12mm set screws for tinware. |
As for those 7mm/1.0 x 25mm bolts for the 215mm clutch......on one hand.....you can buy beautiful 7mm/1.0 x 25mm class 12.9 ...triple square 9mm head clutch bolts from the VW dealer used on modern golf and jetta for about $2 each.
I was just about to use a spare set on my type 4 flywheel that I had from a clutch job on my Golf....when I noticed....thank God....that they are not completely threaded and are about 5 threads short and would have wrecked the holes.
I am flipping a coin as to whether I am going to thread each bolt a little further and use them because they are such nice bolts.....or just tap the 7mm holes to 8mm which I have done before and it works just fine.
I will probably thread a few of the new bolts anyway to see how well it works. Ray |
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NASkeet
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2006
Posts: 2958
Location: South Benfleet, Essex, UK
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| Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2023 12:35 pm Post subject: Re: Buying all those replacement bolts, nuts, and screws? |
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| raygreenwood wrote: |
| mikedjames wrote: |
A pile of M6 x 20mm bolts and nuts and a hack saw.
A pile of M8x 30mm bolts and nuts.
A handful of M7x15mm bolts for brake drums sometimes 215mm clutches
A pile of M6x 12mm set screws for tinware. |
As for those 7mm/1.0 x 25mm bolts for the 215mm clutch......on one hand.....you can buy beautiful 7mm/1.0 x 25mm class 12.9 ...triple square 9mm head clutch bolts from the VW dealer used on modern golf and jetta for about $2 each.
I was just about to use a spare set on my type 4 flywheel that I had from a clutch job on my Golf....when I noticed....thank God....that they are not completely threaded and are about 5 threads short and would have wrecked the holes.
I am flipping a coin as to whether I am going to thread each bolt a little further and use them because they are such nice bolts.....or just tap the 7mm holes to 8mm which I have done before and it works just fine.
I will probably thread a few of the new bolts anyway to see how well it works. Ray |
I think the clutch pressure-plate retaining bolts for my 1974 VW 1800 Type 2, 215 mm flywheel are M8 x 1•25 mm, with 13 mm AF hex-heads, rather than M7 x 1•0 mm, with 11 mm AF hex-heads.
What you describe as "triple-square" socket-head screws, are more formally known as XZN socket-head screws.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#Triple-square_(XZN)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#12-spline_flange
If anyone is interested I have a few spare half-inch drive, M8 XZN socket tools marked "Super-Slim" [presumed to be Williams "Super-Slim"] for sale or barter.
To the best of my recall, M8 threads have a 1•25 mm pitch, whereas M7 threads have a 1•0 mm pitch! I feel that re-threading an M7 hole with an M8 tap might be unsatisfactory! Having said that, the recommended tap-drill size appears to be 6•8 mm for M8 x 1•25 mm (metric-course) and 7•0 mm for M8 x 1•00 mm (metric-fine), so one might get away with re-threading an M7 x 1•00 mm hole for M8 x 1•25 mm bolts! 
Don't forget the two M7 x 1•0 mm bolts which secure the rear brake drums of circa 1971~79 model-years (i.e. the type that do NOT require unfastening the large axle nut to remove the brake drum!).
https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/M7_Bolts.html
https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/BZP-8.8_ScrewBolt_HexHd_M7_THRpart.html
https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/BZP-8.8_ScrewBolt_HexHd_M7_THRfull.html
I would like to find some countersunk M7 x 1•0 mm socket-screws for my brake drums, so that I can fit my 2002~03 Mercedes C-Class 7 x 16 inch alloy wheels.
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/DIN-7991-Hexagon-socket-m7-countersunk_60767864136.html
Failing that, I shall probably fit something like Timesert™ threaded bushes, to accommodate countersunk M6 x 1•0 mm socket-screws.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TIME-SERT-M6x1-0x12mm-Ins...amp;sr=8-5
I think there is also an M7 x 1•0 mm set-bolt which secures the clutch release shaft!?!
From my past experience with rusted-in M6 screws for securing the engine's sheet-steel cover-plates, I have chosen to use A2 stainless-steel bolts and socket-head screws. In areas where one might skin one's knuckles or catch one's finger-nails on screw or bolt heads, the button-head socket-screws would probably be the preferred choice.
My sliding-door pull-close strap was originally fitted using substitute pan-head, M6 x 1•0 mm machine-screws, but having recently salvaged some from a local waste-skip, I shall ultimately substitute some mushroom/button-head, M6 x 1•0 mm socket-screws, which will lessen the likelihood of skinning my knuckles or catching my finger-nails on the screw-heads.
https://www.bolts.co.uk/socket-screws-buttons-metric-bzp-c-4881/
https://www.bolts.co.uk/socket-screws-buttons-metric-a2-stainless-steel-c-4879/
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Regards.
Nigel A. Skeet
Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.
Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper
Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)
http://www.vwt2oc.net
Last edited by NASkeet on Wed Feb 15, 2023 12:12 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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RWK
Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2009
Posts: 1349
Location: S.W. MI
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| Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2023 7:45 am Post subject: Re: Buying all those replacement bolts, nuts, and screws? |
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I use these now for tin screws, do not like the screwdriver style, flange head helps with the elongated wore out holes you find, also eliminates stripped screw driver slots when they seize.
https://www.mcmaster.com/flange-bolts/medium-stren...ad-screws/
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63 Type 113
63 Type 261- 428 071
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NASkeet
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2006
Posts: 2958
Location: South Benfleet, Essex, UK
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| Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2023 4:07 am Post subject: Re: Buying all those replacement bolts, nuts, and screws? |
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To minimize the likelihood of seizure, I use stainless-steel fasteners and copper-grease.
In the dim, distant past, I occasionally used to salvage flanged bolts (some with serrated surfaces) from the local car breakers' yards, but I have never knowingly come across a supplier of new ones.
In some engine cover-plate applications on the VW Type 4 style air-cooled engines, I use stainless-steel "penny-washers" (i.e. circa 25 mm diameter, akin to a pre-decimal British penny) or "repair-washers". I also used washers of this type for my mudflaps.
For the four M6 screws on either side of the Type 4 inlet manifolds, I filed the circular "penny-washers" into a rounded-corner D-shape and radiused the edges all the way round, so that they do not bite into the cover-plates' paint finish.
https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-washers/washers-4/
https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-washers/washers-4/washers-5/metric-oversized-washers/
https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-washers/washers-4/clipped-washers/
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Repair-Washers-6mmx25-Sta...&psc=1
For the custom aluminium P-clips, which hold the electrical cables & hose to the rear-hatch hinges, for the rear-window wiper & washer, heated rear window, high-level brake light and audio speakers, I used M4 stainless-steel Phillip's head screws, Nyloc nuts & washers.
_________________
Regards.
Nigel A. Skeet
Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.
Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper
Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)
http://www.vwt2oc.net |
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