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Overhauling Fuel Reserve Tap
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Riff Raff
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 7:41 pm    Post subject: Overhauling Fuel Reserve Tap Reply with quote

I ordered an overhaul kit for my fuel tap. I would rather it operate "right side up" so I got the overhaul kit instead of the whole new tap.
Can someone who has performed this surgery tell me how to get the unit apart?
Bentley shows a specialty wrench to get into it, but it's not great on details.
Somebody walk me through this please?

Moderator note
:
Also see this Beetle Forum thread:
Rebuilding your 56 to 61 fuel reserve tap.
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Last edited by Riff Raff on Mon Oct 31, 2005 11:37 am; edited 1 time in total
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vwjosh6070
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

where did you get the kit? i need one for my 60
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Riff Raff
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ordered it from Wolfburg West.
I don't have it yet, so I can't comment on the quality -
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Braukuche
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 7:02 am    Post subject: Re: Overhauling Fuel Reserve Tap Reply with quote

Riff Raff wrote:
I ordered an overhaul kit for my fuel tap. I would rather it operate "right sde up" so I got the overhaul kit instead of the whole new tap.
Can someone who has performed this surgery tell me how to get the unit apart?
Bentley shows a specialty wrench to get into it, but it's not great on details.
Somebody walk me through this please?


I've rebuilt them for Bugs before and it required no speacial tools. Can't imagine the Bus ones are different, but maybe they are...You just remove a clip and then the sprung center pops out more or less. You just replace the bits and clean it up. Real simple.
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Riff Raff
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Dan
I'm just having a hell of a time getting the innards pushed down to release the fabled lock ring. I cant seem to get the guts pushed down very far, and I cant tell what is the lock ring through the little slot.
I have cleaned it up as good as I could with a dead toothbrush and carb cleaner, but I may have to let it soak in carb cleaner overnight as the carb cleaner turned the boot to molasses and I think that may be gumming up the lock ring. AHHHH, this is such a simple little device, it shouldn't be this tough to get it apart! Confused
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DaveM
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

on my web site...
http://www.amayesing.com/fueltap.htm



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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BUCIOBATISTI
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep in mind that you can buy a complete new unit for about $35.
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Lind
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BUCIOBATISTI wrote:
Keep in mind that you can buy a complete new unit for about $35.

I think that the complaint is that the new units are not the correct part. they operate backwards, so you either have to modify the tubes or drive with your reserve lever out all the time (except when you run out of gas, then you get to push it in for that last five liters.)
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BUCIOBATISTI
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lind wrote:
BUCIOBATISTI wrote:
Keep in mind that you can buy a complete new unit for about $35.

I think that the complaint is that the new units are not the correct part. they operate backwards, so you either have to modify the tubes or drive with your reserve lever out all the time (except when you run out of gas, then you get to push it in for that last five liters.)


I learn something new once in a while. That explains what the hell is going on in my 1960 Kombi.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

shameless plug here:

if anyone needs a core bus reserve lever, I have a couple for sale:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=234876
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 2:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since the tubes are just pressed in, couldn't you just switch the tubes on a new valve?

Assuming you could remove and install them with damaging them since they are easily bendable brass...
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hazetguy
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

something about the rebuild kits from WW:
on some of the earlier reserve valves, the rubber in the kit is too THICK and will make operation of the lever nearly impossible. i have had this happen a couple times now. it's been on the earlier ones i believe marked "karco" and do not have the rubber dust boot as seen in the pic above on the right. you can assemble it (with difficulty), but the rubber is too thick and causes too much resistance in the operating lever. it's very difficult to operate it by hand, and would be impossible with the cable.
so if you put it together (and before you install it) and it's difficult to move the arm (it should be smooth and easy to operate it, no signifigant effort required, just a small bit of drag), you may need to trim the rubber down to make it smooth, or get some proper thickness cork and make your own gasket.
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Kommercial
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EverettB wrote:
Since the tubes are just pressed in, couldn't you just switch the tubes on a new valve?

Assuming you could remove and install them with damaging them since they are easily bendable brass...


Yes, you pull them out and switch them, no problem.
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KombiMonster
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On both my buses...I can pull the reserve but can't push it back in....I have to get under the bus to switch it back to normal.....I think I put a new one in the standard....if I remember right the tubes were plastic and very easly removed and switched....


I am currently looking for the lever ARM...please pm me if any of you have one to part with...
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mintonman
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hazetguy wrote:
i have had this happen a couple times now. it's been on the earlier ones i believe marked "karco" and do not have the rubber dust boot as seen in the pic above on the right.


I have one of these & wanted to refurbish it, but there is noway this thing is gonna come apart, unless the PO rebuilt it using this kit because it is tight. It wont push in at all Mad

Gotta try one of the ways davem(nice site) has on his page..........
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Stocknazi
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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2006 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if it is possible to switch out the tubes in the tap, then it should be possible to rebuild my og tap with broken tubes. they look like brass and pressed in. anyone have the correct diameter for the tubes?
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splitpile
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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2006 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The latest taps the tubes are in the correct holes. At least the last ones I got were.
Also Porche 356 pre A and I believe A also fuel tap rebuild kits are the best. They still use a core gasket and not rubber, which I have found todays gas seems to eat up prematurely


644-201-951-00 Fuel Cock Repair Kit. Fits both the 644-201-021-00 & 644-201-021-07 fuel cock. $20.00

http://www.stoddard.com/shop/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=50&cat=Fuel+Cocks+and+Senders
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat May 20, 2006 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

KombiMonster wrote:
On both my buses...I can pull the reserve but can't push it back in....I have to get under the bus to switch it back to normal.....I think I put a new one in the standard....if I remember right the tubes were plastic and very easly removed and switched....


I am currently looking for the lever ARM...please pm me if any of you have one to part with...


Since I started pulling the reserve cable (not the tube, just the cable) all the way out of the bus and polishing off the rust with fine sandpaper and reinstalling it lubed with a mixture of grease and antiseize the cable movement has been much easier.

I recently rebuildt the fuel tap in the '56 westy, it's the early kind with no dust boot. It was really hard to get apart. I have a 10mm hole in my wooden workbench where something used to be bolted, so the outlet goes there, and a socket over the part where the clip is and put a socket over the outie part and bang with the rubber mallet until it would push in. It was a PITA, just old gas turned to glue goo. (bus had been sitting since 1980)

I used the WW kit, which means the rubber seal. It seems to work fine.
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Ollie W
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hope that this topic isn't too played out, but I have a question about reserve taps.
I've got a newer WW tap (correct tubing), but it's just too stiff to use correctly. I can barely pull it out when needed, but can't push it back in as it only bends the wire under the truck, instead of pushing the lever arm back up.
So, my question is, can I take this tap apart and somehow make it a bit more easy to move the lever arm? If so, what part inside needs my attention?

Thanks
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happyhippo
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ARGHHHHHH!!!!
I've purchased one of these WW fuel reserve taps but it doesn't come with the lever that the reserve wire attaches to....thus it is useless!!! Where can I get that lever that is pictured in DaveM's picture a few posts back?
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