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Stocknazi
Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2004
Posts: 5150
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 Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 6:41 pm Post subject: |
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if you drove the tap cap down into the tap, it will be a bitch to get it back out. i ended up clamping the end of the spindle in a vice and tapping on the housing. i was careful to keep damage to the housing to a minimum.
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MrBusCo 
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2007
Posts: 1561
Location: stoughton, WI
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| Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 3:08 pm Post subject: |
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Does the union nut that conects the tap to the fuel tank come off somehow?
I can get it to thread up and down a few turns on the body of the fuel tap but not come off. is it supposed to? |
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dstefun
Samba Member
Joined: February 20, 2002
Posts: 3338
Location: Sacratomato
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| Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 5:24 pm Post subject: |
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| BigPaddle wrote: |
Does the union nut that conects the tap to the fuel tank come off somehow?
I can get it to thread up and down a few turns on the body of the fuel tap but not come off. is it supposed to? |
Yes, the big union nut should just unscrew. Try soaking it with PB Blaster or choke cleaner. You must have some crud in the threads somewhere. |
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Riff Raff
Shivering Sambian
Joined: October 25, 2004
Posts: 3096
Location: Alberta
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| Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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| dstefun wrote: |
| BigPaddle wrote: |
Does the union nut that conects the tap to the fuel tank come off somehow?
I can get it to thread up and down a few turns on the body of the fuel tap but not come off. is it supposed to? |
Yes, the big union nut should just unscrew. Try soaking it with PB Blaster or choke cleaner. You must have some crud in the threads somewhere. |
The threads on the tap body are left handed. If you are just trying to get the big union nut off of the body, you have to turn the nut clockwise.
The threads on the tank are right handed. That way, you can just turn the nutcounter clockwise when installing the tap and it tightens on both tank and tap.
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Touch Nicks Thing
Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2003
Posts: 2029
Location: Alexandria, VA
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| Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 1:08 pm Post subject: |
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| I noticed Dave's site is down, does anyone have info on his tutorial? |
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vwserphguy
Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2009
Posts: 175
Location: Vail Valley
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| Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 11:09 am Post subject: |
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| hazetguy wrote: |
something about the rebuild kits from WW:
on some of the earlier reserve valves, the rubber in the kit is too THICK and will make operation of the lever nearly impossible. i have had this happen a couple times now.
you may need to trim the rubber down to make it smooth, or get some proper thickness cork and make your own gasket. |
I am running into the same trouble with the gasket being too thick for the early fuel taps. I have a '58 bus and the rubber on the WW internal gasket is definately thick.
Any suggestions on how to make the rubber gasket thinner? I was thinking of using some sort of file? Thanks. |
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Snoop Bob
Samba Member
Joined: May 06, 2003
Posts: 2687
Location: Florida
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| Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 11:42 am Post subject: |
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Belt sander with as fine a grit as you can get.
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| BarryL wrote: |
| Put your lips onto the little tit with the hole in it inside and make a good seal. You can suck and blow but with a little resistance. It gets better after it's wet. |
| EverettB wrote: |
| I would be interested in knowing the sizes of the various shafts. |
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bc59bus
Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2002
Posts: 461
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| Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 3:55 pm Post subject: |
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Just a heads up, I picked up two fuel taps from WW the other day both have the tubes in the wrong place 
Pull out for standerd operation.... push in for reserve 
want'na know how I know... yep! ran out of gas.
What is the best tool to use to remove the brass tubes or can you just pull them out by hand? |
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Manfred58sc
Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2009
Posts: 3382
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| Posted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 11:43 am Post subject: |
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Today I rebuilt the fuel tap on my sc with a WW kit, went well and it moves very easily. I did not have to sand or grease anything, just a good cleaning. I drilled a hole in a sliver (2" by 4") of 3/4" plywood so the valve could rest on something soft then held the plywood in place with the vise. Disassembling the valve did kill the "C" clip but the kit had a new one. Reassembly proved tough on my old hands so I used a bar clamp to depress the valve, that worked well, the top of the bar clamp was positioned on the top of the valve and the slider with hand screw came up underneath the vise. I used a small hobby vise with wide jaws. I needed 2 hands to get the c-clip in,an assistant would have sped things up. Good kit as far as I am concerned.
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lowbus
Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2004
Posts: 74
Location: tucson, AZ
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| Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 8:44 am Post subject: |
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| splitpile wrote: |
The latest taps the tubes are in the correct holes. At least the last ones I got were.
Also Porche 356 pre A and I believe A also fuel tap rebuild kits are the best. They still use a core gasket and not rubber, which I have found todays gas seems to eat up prematurely
644-201-951-00 Fuel Cock Repair Kit. Fits both the 644-201-021-00 & 644-201-021-07 fuel cock. $20.00
http://www.stoddard.com/shop/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=50&cat=Fuel+Cocks+and+Senders |
I agree with Ronnie. I think The cork should withstand deterioration from gasoline better than rubber.
I purchased the Stoddard kit, I found that it needs modification before use. It comes with two cork seals, one is too large and the other is too small.
- I cut the larger cork to fit the reserve assembly. I used the spring loaded plunger as a template.
- I drilled a hole in the center of the seal so gas could enter the reserve unit. (The hole in pic is a pilot hole, eventually made it larger)
- greased and re assembled.
A good picture tutorial for a bug reserve rebuild :http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/posting.php?mode=quote&p=1491789
Cork too large
Stoddard Porsche 356 kit $20
I saw on the Stoddard site that you can order the cork gasket individually for $2-3, clip for $0.75, fuel screen $5,
Or the Wolfsburg West kit for $9 which is a Clip, rubber seal and a rubber boot.
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111209113A
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Stocknazi
Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2004
Posts: 5150
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| Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 5:52 pm Post subject: |
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You can make your own using 1/8 inch cork/rubber gasket material.
Takes a few minutes to cut out, but works well
earlier taps that do not have the rubber dust boot have a couple more fiber gaskets that have to be made as well
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WANTED:
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"When the people are afraid of the government, that's tyranny. But when the government is afraid of the people, that's liberty."
"Resistance to tyrants is obedience to God."
Thomas Jefferson |
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BulliBill
Samba Member
Joined: July 09, 2004
Posts: 4572
Location: St Charles, MO
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| Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Stanagon wrote: |
I got mine from Ronnie (Splitpile) and it seems to work great. I've used it a lot as a fuel shut off valve with having engines in and out. Be sure to install it with two fiber gaskets and make sure it's good and snug against the tank.
The other day I actually used it while driving the '61 and it worked perfect. I knew the fuel tank was getting low (close to 200mi. on full tank with 1600sp) and was ready to pull it at the first sign of a stumble. That was the first time I ever used a fuel reserve lever.  |
I have always wondered about using two versus one thin red gasket when installing the fuel screen and tap to the tank. IIRC the parts book only refers to one red gasket being used (between the fuel sock aluminum flange and the tank). I thought about putting a red gasket on both sides of the fuel filtering screen/sock and would it seal better? It's been a while, but I think I've even used 2 seals on one of my Buses already and didn't have any leaking issues... Just as I had hoped. Any other opinions about using two vs. one? Sounds like Stan has also used two also.
By the way, I've had to use my tap several times, in my '55 Sunroof Beetle and also in my '59 DD Panel... and they work awesome! It's a little startling when the engine starts sputtering, but then your brain clicks in and you pull the knob on the tap control cable and suddenly the motor comes right back to normal! Pretty cool. Now, where's the next gas station?
Anyway, thoughts on one or two gaskets?
Bill
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EverettB
Administrator
Joined: April 11, 2000
Posts: 69813
Location: Phoenix Metro
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| Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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One vs. 2 gasket discussion in here
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=497182
Parts book shows one for non-Barndoors.
I've seen both 1 and 2 on disassembled Buses.
I've used both 1 and 2 on installs.
Some leaked with 1 so I added a bottom one.
Some leaked with 2 so I removed the lower one.
Theory:
I believe the sock is supposed to crush and seal against the outlet but this can fail due to sock re-use or a non-smooth sealing surface on the outlet tap or reserve valve.
I haven't done a ton of sock replacements and installations so take that into account as well.
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Stanagon
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2003
Posts: 4186
Location: Boston, MA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 4:54 pm Post subject: |
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| BulliBill wrote: |
| Stanagon wrote: |
I got mine from Ronnie (Splitpile) and it seems to work great. I've used it a lot as a fuel shut off valve with having engines in and out. Be sure to install it with two fiber gaskets and make sure it's good and snug against the tank.
The other day I actually used it while driving the '61 and it worked perfect. I knew the fuel tank was getting low (close to 200mi. on full tank with 1600sp) and was ready to pull it at the first sign of a stumble. That was the first time I ever used a fuel reserve lever. |
I have always wondered about using two versus one thin red gasket when installing the fuel screen and tap to the tank. IIRC the parts book only refers to one red gasket being used (between the fuel sock aluminum flange and the tank). I thought about putting a red gasket on both sides of the fuel filtering screen/sock and would it seal better? It's been a while, but I think I've even used 2 seals on one of my Buses already and didn't have any leaking issues... Just as I had hoped. Any other opinions about using two vs. one? Sounds like Stan has also used two also.
By the way, I've had to use my tap several times, in my '55 Sunroof Beetle and also in my '59 DD Panel... and they work awesome! It's a little startling when the engine starts sputtering, but then your brain clicks in and you pull the knob on the tap control cable and suddenly the motor comes right back to normal! Pretty cool. Now, where's the next gas station?
Anyway, thoughts on one or two gaskets?
Bill |
My tap is stuck in the reserve position. Been counting the miles for a couple years now on the '61 bus.
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Stan's Classic Service, specializing in air-cooled VWs:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=614073
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My '61 Mango bus thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=110367
My '64 vert thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=386344
My '71 squareback thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=637709 |
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peecee69
Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2005
Posts: 1572
Location: Annapolis, MD/Bloomfield Hills, MI
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| Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 6:49 am Post subject: Re: Overhauling Fuel Reserve Tap |
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Keeping the tap related questions in one thread...
There's a lot of information about the tap, but what about pictures of the knob end in the cab? I'd like to add a reserve tap to mine, if only to have the shutoff ability. I'd like to add it so that it looks factory. Since that area of my DC needs the metal replaced anyway, I'd like to make it as accurate as possible.
I know I need to add a bracket near the tap to secure the cable end near the reserve tap, but is there anything to add at the knob end? Does the cable get secured to the body and the knob just screw onto the cable?
The fuel reserve tap knob (23) in this picture looks like there is a relief pressing in the body, probably for strengthening. Now the hunt is on for that metal.
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j.pickens
Samba Member
Joined: December 03, 2002
Posts: 9789
Location: Exit 7, New Jersey
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| Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 12:06 pm Post subject: Re: Overhauling Fuel Reserve Tap |
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Here's a detail shot from my Swivelseat Kombi.
While there is a stamping around the knobs, they just mount to holes.
Simple holes with, if I remember, a threaded bezel on the base so you can pull the whole thing through with the cable from the front after detaching from the reserve valve and removing the knob and the bezel.
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| BeaterBarndoor wrote: |
i wish more people would actually drive their vws rather than just talking about what they have in the garage. |
| Red Fau Veh wrote: |
If you've seen one sunroof swivel seat kombi, you've seen them all!  |
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ToolBox
Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004
Posts: 3439
Location: Detroit, where they don't jack parts off my ride in the parking lot of the 7-11
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| Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:38 am Post subject: Re: Overhauling Fuel Reserve Tap |
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| peecee69 wrote: |
Keeping the tap related questions in one thread...
There's a lot of information about the tap, but what about pictures of the knob end in the cab? I'd like to add a reserve tap to mine, if only to have the shutoff ability. I'd like to add it so that it looks factory. Since that area of my DC needs the metal replaced anyway, I'd like to make it as accurate as possible.
I know I need to add a bracket near the tap to secure the cable end near the reserve tap, but is there anything to add at the knob end? Does the cable get secured to the body and the knob just screw onto the cable?
The fuel reserve tap knob (23) in this picture looks like there is a relief pressing in the body, probably for strengthening. Now the hunt is on for that metal.
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I will get you a picture of my empty choke cable hole for you tonight. If I remember correct it is a D shaped hole so the cable will not twist when the nut is tightened. |
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ToolBox
Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004
Posts: 3439
Location: Detroit, where they don't jack parts off my ride in the parking lot of the 7-11
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| Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2021 8:57 am Post subject: Re: Overhauling Fuel Reserve Tap |
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| peecee69 wrote: |
Keeping the tap related questions in one thread...
There's a lot of information about the tap, but what about pictures of the knob end in the cab? I'd like to add a reserve tap to mine, if only to have the shutoff ability. I'd like to add it so that it looks factory. Since that area of my DC needs the metal replaced anyway, I'd like to make it as accurate as possible.
I know I need to add a bracket near the tap to secure the cable end near the reserve tap, but is there anything to add at the knob end? Does the cable get secured to the body and the knob just screw onto the cable?
The fuel reserve tap knob (23) in this picture looks like there is a relief pressing in the body, probably for strengthening. Now the hunt is on for that metal.
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It's the choke cable mounting hole but it's the same as the tap cable hole...
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peecee69
Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2005
Posts: 1572
Location: Annapolis, MD/Bloomfield Hills, MI
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House
Minutia Militia
Joined: June 13, 2001
Posts: 1768
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2022 9:51 pm Post subject: Re: Overhauling Fuel Reserve Tap |
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Unfortunately David isn’t with us to ask, but does anybody know what material this piece is made out of, if it is important, and why it isn’t included in any of the rebuild kits? I am thinking it is just to keep the spring from digging into the aluminum to keep it turning easy, but the spring also has ground ends to keep it from digging in, so kind of not needed? I have assembled a few taps without it in the past with no issues, but ran into this dead one so I figured it would be a good topic to post about…
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