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VOLKSWAGNUT Fastest VW Belt Changer
Joined: October 14, 2007 Posts: 11056 Location: Flippin' a Belt........ .... Off-n-On ... NC USA
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Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 9:01 am Post subject: |
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racklo wrote: |
It is a 67 body on a 73 chassis. ...... I was planning on picking up a used beam and welding the adjusters on but I'm not sure if the beams are universal. |
You need a BALL JOINT Beam ( not Link Pin)
66 and newer.
applicable Ball Joint Beam link.. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=143095
. _________________ aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited |
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racklo Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2015 Posts: 19
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Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 9:15 am Post subject: |
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Of course I do. For some reason I thought I was posting in the Ball Joint forum. Are the ball joint beams interchangeable? I know now that this isn't the correct forum and I can post in the ball joint forum in need be. |
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VOLKSWAGNUT Fastest VW Belt Changer
Joined: October 14, 2007 Posts: 11056 Location: Flippin' a Belt........ .... Off-n-On ... NC USA
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Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 10:45 am Post subject: |
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racklo wrote: |
Are the ball joint beams interchangeable? |
Main Beams.. Yes.. for Beetle and Ghia. (Type 1)
Attaching parts.. different.. but interchangeable..
(tie rods, knuckles/spindles, pitman arm, tie rods, drums, discs, etc)...
. _________________ aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited |
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racklo Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2015 Posts: 19
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Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 11:46 am Post subject: |
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Quote: |
Main Beams.. Yes.. for Beetle and Ghia. (Type 1) |
thank you |
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Dake Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2014 Posts: 481 Location: Georgia
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 8:30 am Post subject: |
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Are drop spindles better than a adjustable beam? |
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Thomas Lindemann Samba Member
Joined: May 07, 2013 Posts: 111 Location: Gloucester, VA
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 1:29 pm Post subject: |
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Dake wrote: |
Are drop spindles better than a adjustable beam? |
Yes and no. if you only want a small (2.5" drop) then yes, because it doesnt alter any suspension geometry. If you want lower and you want to do it right, then you will need an adjustable beam. IMHO the best route if you want lower than just drop spindles, then a combination of drop spindles and a beam will let you lower and wont effect geometry as mush as just trying to get low with a beam. |
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EMPIImp69 Samba Member
Joined: April 17, 2006 Posts: 3374 Location: Dirty Jersey
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Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 8:26 am Post subject: Re: Official "Link Pin" lowering topic |
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Can anyone tell me this looks like 1 outer click or more like 2 outer clicks? There's about 2.5"-3" clearance between the bumpstop, Thanks
_________________ 1963 Ragtop Bug |
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Jamlit Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2016 Posts: 107 Location: Nova Scotia Canada
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Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 7:22 pm Post subject: Re: Official "Link Pin" lowering topic |
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If I want to run 165/45R15 tires on the front using 2.5 inch drop spindles and beam adjusters, what is the best measurement to narrow the beam while keeping the shocks. I do not want any rub on the tire. |
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MMW Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2012 Posts: 846 Location: northern NJ
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Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 4:55 am Post subject: Re: Official "Link Pin" lowering topic |
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EMPIImp69 - You really can't tell if it is one or two notches down because the lower portion is sitting on the lower stop. It needs to have the outer cap removed & then the spring plate slid outwards off the stop & left hanging free. Caution--Be careful when doing this as the spring plate is spring loaded. Once hanging free then you can measure the degrees of the plate & compare them to the stock measurement.
This link should explain it for you.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=576348&highlight=spring+plate+install _________________ Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle |
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slalombuggy Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2010 Posts: 9147 Location: Canada
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Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 7:55 am Post subject: Re: Official "Link Pin" lowering topic |
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Jamlit wrote: |
If I want to run 165/45R15 tires on the front using 2.5 inch drop spindles and beam adjusters, what is the best measurement to narrow the beam while keeping the shocks. I do not want any rub on the tire. |
What wheels are you using? Those tires are tiny, they won't rub on anything. I have them on the front of my 57 on Iron cross wheels, disk brakes and a skinny drag race front end. with really small wheel arches. I doubt you'll have to narrow your beam at all
brad |
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Jamlit Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2016 Posts: 107 Location: Nova Scotia Canada
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slalombuggy Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2010 Posts: 9147 Location: Canada
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Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 5:06 pm Post subject: Re: Official "Link Pin" lowering topic |
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I just bought that same brake kit from CIP1 last week. If I were you that's where I would get it. By the time you pay 40% exchange on the dollar, shipping and taxes you'll be north of $700CDN CIP is selling them for about $550 shipped.
IF you are going to just drop it 2.5 inches you don't want that small of a tire. You'll have way to big of a gap in the fender. I would look at smart car tires. I hate 135/145s. They will lock up almost instantly if you have to panic stop
brad |
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Jamlit Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2016 Posts: 107 Location: Nova Scotia Canada
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Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 5:34 pm Post subject: Re: Official "Link Pin" lowering topic |
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Thanks for the tip on where to get the parts.
I am going to start with 2.5 inches but I am going to install adjusters as well so that I can get to where it looks and works the best.
Might bug you some when I get started. |
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willydozier Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2006 Posts: 32 Location: PDX
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Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2016 12:36 pm Post subject: Re: Official "Link Pin" lowering topic |
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Stock 64 Beetle with newish KYB shocks. Had 2.5 drop spindles, k&l pins and bearings installed. Height ended up perfect (about 1.5" above the 17565R15's on 5.5 smoothies) however now there is something binding. Push the nose down and it stays down. Pull in up and it stays up. Anyone experience this? Solutions? |
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MMW Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2012 Posts: 846 Location: northern NJ
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2016 4:40 am Post subject: Re: Official "Link Pin" lowering topic |
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willydozier wrote: |
Stock 64 Beetle with newish KYB shocks. Had 2.5 drop spindles, k&l pins and bearings installed. Height ended up perfect (about 1.5" above the 17565R15's on 5.5 smoothies) however now there is something binding. Push the nose down and it stays down. Pull in up and it stays up. Anyone experience this? Solutions? |
Have you disconnected the shocks & tried it? That will tell you if it's the shocks or not.
Link pins may be set to tight or may be incorrectly shimmed which can cause binding. Is the beam stock width or narrowed? I assume everything is greased properly? _________________ Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle |
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willydozier Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2006 Posts: 32 Location: PDX
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2016 9:36 am Post subject: Re: Official "Link Pin" lowering topic |
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Thanks for your response, Stock beam, well lubed and yes, pulled the shocks and everything now moves freely. Weird. The KYB's only have about 2,000 miles on them. I'm going to try new KYB G shocks and if the problem persists I'll likely look for old school oil type units. I really don't want a "dropped" car. I just wanted to eliminate the typical mid 60's "nose in the air" stance. Thanks again. |
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MMW Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2012 Posts: 846 Location: northern NJ
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2016 11:22 am Post subject: Re: Official "Link Pin" lowering topic |
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Oil type shocks work best on these cars. My opinion. _________________ Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle |
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Gutierg2 Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2016 Posts: 1 Location: Cypress ca
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Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2016 12:54 am Post subject: Re: Official "Link Pin" lowering topic |
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I just lowered my 66 bug with drop spindles but want to lower it a little more without buying a adjustment stable front beam is there anything I can do to accomplish this? |
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anthracitedub Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2007 Posts: 3241 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2016 7:05 am Post subject: Re: Official "Link Pin" lowering topic |
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There is no proper way to go a bit lower, rather then add the adjusters. |
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bwaz Samba Member
Joined: August 24, 2004 Posts: 1780
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Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 7:59 am Post subject: Re: Official "Link Pin" lowering topic |
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So I bought a stock width link pin beam with Avis style adjusters and 2" drop spindles. After installing it, and putting the adjuster to the heights position, I'm finding with 5" rims and 135 tires that I'm still getting some rubbing... somewhere. The top of the tires barely clear the opening of the fender curve and although I don't see any burn through on the paint, I assume with my weight in the car (165 lbs) it's enough to put it lower when turning. Have to still drop the rear one notch which I hope brings the nose up a bit. I think I'm at the max of the grub screws to the leaves in the opening of the adjusters. Other than another beam or adjuster removal/repositioning, can you pull the grub screws an drill new indents in another position to gain more range? I know it's the lazy way, but if I have to pull everything I'm going to miss a bunch of summer drive time.
Last edited by bwaz on Sun Jul 22, 2018 3:45 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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